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ChrisZ

Lynx manifold photos

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As the title say, i'm in need of photos of Lynx intake manifolds for triples, specially linkage, prefered photos on a 240Z.

 

So come on guys, post some shots  ;).

Chris

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Unless I'm mistaken (possible) Lynx only made DCOE manifolds for twin side drafts for L4's...

 

Why do you need photos?

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Lurch, you are mistaken, unless i'm the only one with a L6 Lynx manifold  ;D

 

I installed the manifold and Dellorto's today and the linkage dosen't mach up to the linkage rod on the firewall, maybe i should post a photo.

Maybe the setup was from a 280Z, dunno if there is any difference.

 

scootag, thanks for the link, do you by any chance have a photo of the triples installed on your car ?

 

Keep it coming

Chris

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the Lynx and Redline manifolds are just OK,

The Manifold ex Japan is far better ( Kameari) thicker pipe walls, and flanges, better sizes for match porting, and when you buy it as a kit it comes with EVERYTHING

but, yep if you dont want to spend the $$ forget it, go with the slightly cheaper ones, byt the time you linkage and gasket it it works out almost same cost as kameari.

 

There are pics on their sites, google is good!

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the Lynx and Redline manifolds are just OK,

The Manifold ex Japan is far better ( Kameari) thicker pipe walls, and flanges, better sizes for match porting, and when you buy it as a kit it comes with EVERYTHING

but, yep if you dont want to spend the $$ forget it, go with the slightly cheaper ones, byt the time you linkage and gasket it it works out almost same cost as kameari.

 

There are pics on their sites, google is good!

I just might point out that Kameari don't make intake manifold :( however they do resell an intake manifold. I have a link somewhere of the actual manufactures website but it is not easy to find and Kameari is the easiest reseller to located/contact.

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Lurch, you are mistaken, unless i'm the only one with a L6 Lynx manifold  ;D

 

I installed the manifold and Dellorto's today and the linkage dosen't mach up to the linkage rod on the firewall, maybe i should post a photo.

Maybe the setup was from a 280Z, dunno if there is any difference.

 

scootag, thanks for the link, do you by any chance have a photo of the triples installed on your car ?

 

Keep it coming

Chris

Those triples in that link were never installed on my car, if you look under the Fuel System section you'll find the thread scoota and the three D's i actually had to modify my linkage to suit... Yea and probably a photo of your woes would help.

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Post a photo up, ChrisZ ;)

01:30 here, so i will do that in the morning.

 

Cheers

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Okay, here is some photos, as you can see the manifold linkage sits way lower and towards the valve cover, about 50 millimeter to low and 30 millimeter toward valvecover.

 

Lurch, in the manifold is cast Lynx and D240-260.

 

Chris

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of coarse nothing will align up ,its a lynx manifold, runners probably cover half the intake ports, nobody said you could do it properly and cheap , but if your going to add tripples to your car do it properly and dont skimp out on crappy nasty cheap parts, you will have nothing but problems and it appears to me the way you are going you are just setting yourself up for nothing but on going troubles, get some advice from someone who knows what there talking about and take theyre advice

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First a question for you.

 

What are those pipes coming from the exhaust manifold for?

 

Now back to the linkage issue.

1. Your car is LHD so I am guessing it is a 260z/280z from the USA (as the accelerate pivot is welded to the firewall, it is bolted on the early 240z - so if this is a 240z it will be a 72/73 at a guess.)

2. You want to replace those plastic, cheap and nasty, eyes for the shaft with some descend rod ends.

 

Looking at the pic showing your firewall mounting rod setup - the angles are way wrong. That rod going across the firewall to the shaft should be almost level. ie it looks like you have mounted the shaft holder upside down?

EDIT: Ok found a pic of a LHD that shows how  that rod is straight

see

2605986529_7ff1a99409_b.jpg

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Nice looking engine bay, that's for sure.

 

First thing first, those pipes are US smog pipes, they are going to come off, but i forgot the plugs i have at home.

 

I can clearly see your point, sharp eye, but the rod aligns up with the SU's, if you take a closer look, you will see that on the right side of that dog bone, mine looks different than the one in the photo you posted, it came like this, my car is a -73 240Z US model, can the earlier models be different or can this intake be from a Skyline model ?

I'm not in to getting another intake, so please no more comments like that, i like to get this running with what i have and yes i will swap those crappy rose joints, found some with bronze liner in UK, less than 5£ each, just need to know what thread size and pitch there is in the manifold, this is a retro mod, to my matching numbers engine, when i get to build my L28, it will be with ITB, crank triggered ignition and Megasquirt, but that's a whole other story.

 

NZeder, thasnks so far.

 

Chris

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Ok looks like there are a few different part numbers for the bell crank and the bracket that goes on the firewall. The part that is interesting is that they are not interchangeable (Nissan part catalogues have two fields that state if the part is a replacement part and if it is interchangeable with the former part number - look at carfiche.com for the US part catalogues it is the column with ICA then two under that N and F, I can't recall what they stand for but if there is a N and N = parts don't interchange with the former part number ie you can't swap them over)

 

The 73 US 240z should use the following part numbers - what they look like who knows.

Bell Crank = 18121-N3300

Shaft holder thing = 18310-N3000 (this is the same part as the RHD models of the same year - so anyone have a pic they care to post? if their setup)

 

So that is about all I can offer but I still think that setup does not look correct that rod across the back of the firewall should not be on such an angle - I am thinking the incorrect bell crank is in use on your setup. This still does not fix the issue you are having :(

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With the thread size for the rod ends in the manifold, not sure if the Lynx and the Redline are the same, but for the Redline, they are 5/16 UNF. You will have to find some longer ones to lift the rod that runs the length of the manifold and like many triple installs I have done, cut and shorten the rod from the firewall to the long rod with the "U" shape and split pin. When that's done, you will have to re-do all the arms and rods that operate the carbies and adjust them again.

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RB30x that manifold is not similar to mine, with those threated holes you have at the left, nearest to your RB throttle bodies, it will line up fine, i don't have those, mine is located as the other set of holes you have.

 

Zedman, yes i'm avare of that and have a spare rod just for the same, 5/16 or 3/8 it is very close to 10 milimeter, maybe i can drill and tab it to 10 millimeter.

 

NZeder, i will try to move the fire wall linkage a bit around and see how it lines up.

 

After a bit of consideration, i have decided that i'm going to have welded 3 aluminimun towers on for the rose joints, that will solve my problem, would it be an idea to use the six threated holes for a balance tube ?, i think it is doable, using a hollow aluminimum bar and banjo bolts.

 

Chris

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Yea my manifold has aluminium towers but getting some fab'd and welded could turn out to be expensive so probably get a quote first. On my Lynx Manifold, that one ( the thread i posted on the first page) had the steel rose joints and are higher than the plastic ones and have more adjustment.

 

Good linkages are essential to tuning as if one carb is activated just a little before the others it can throw the whole lot out.

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Thanks for the pics  :)

 

Now let me update, i went to my car today and pulled the carbs, on my way back home, i went to a shop where i know the owner, (he makes dental equipment) we cut of 3 pieces of 3/4 inch aluminium for the towers, they need to milled a bit but no more time today, we had a look at the manifold and came up with a plan, the stock bungs will be used to attach a hollow aluminium bar, it will be attached with banjo bolts, so it will work as a balance bar, i might get the best out of it.

 

About the fire wall linkage issue, i think the dog bone linkage should sit below the bell crank that goes to the manifold, that will make it more straight, the tower that is welded on to the fire wall, can not be swapped around, it's not similar to the photo posted above, the one above is actually from a later model, look at the attached photos, 74 - 78 US model.

 

Chris

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Are they upside down or don't they have any injector bosses. Or are you going to have injectors closer to the head.

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Nope, they are not upside down, the aluminium bar below is the fuel rail, the pipes you see sticking out on the upper side is for a stepper motor to control idle, throttle bore size is 43 millimeter and they have a center to center distance of 89 millimeter, so i'm planning on making a adaptor plate so i can bolt them on to my "exclusive" Lynx manifold  ;D

 

Chris

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Here is a little update, bungs have been milled, drilled and tapped, sorry for the crappy phone pics.

 

Chris

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