Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
OZ001

L28 into 240z

Recommended Posts

You can use the 240 dizzy on the L28 without any issues. To find out about the leads, first you have to get the engine to cylinder #1 at TDC. Get a socket on the crankshaft bolt and rotate the engine clockwise (when facing the front of it) untill the cam lobes for number 1 are like bunny ears; like a "V" when viewed from the top through the oil filler cap. Look at your rotor button and that should be number 1. Then the order will be anticlockwise 5, 3, 6, 2, 4. When it starts, grab a timing light and finely adjust. Also, the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley should line up with the marker on the timing cover!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ill give it a go tonight see how it goes, thanks zedman.

 

the more i play around with the 240z, i just cant let it go :P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

everything is in the car now all wires plugged in and all mechanicals working sorta... i dont know whether ive done the l24 dizzy wrong or there's a problem with the L24 fuel pump not pumping petrol into the carbies?? it turned on for 2 seconds and it died like there's no petrol going into the engine, ive tried evverything i cant seem to figure it out. any ideas what might be my problem? besides having too many problems?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is real easy to tell if you have fuel pump issue.

 

1. Remove the fuel line from the carbs (the main feed line to the front carb)

2. crank the car over (assume you have a mechanical pump) or if you have electric pump turn the key to on.

3. Watch the fuel come out - if it keeps coming then your pump is working - weather or not it is supplying the correct pressure is a different story

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Before you waste $$ on an electrically pump I would first confirm you do indeed have a fuel pump issue. Crank the car - keep cranking it (just drop off the dizzy cap if you must to ensure no spark) with the main feed line off the carbs. Watch the fuel keep coming as the engine is turned over (ie the cams is turning = the mechanical pump will run) if there is no fuel then you have pump issue. If you are getting fuel then I would take a look at the spark side of things next.

 

But just to clear something up.

1. The carbs are from your L24

2. The fuel pump is from your L24

 

and the L24 was going before with these items? or are they from an unknown source?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Small detail, all L28's do not come with that eccentric cup washer that mounts on the front of the cam gear to operate the mechanical fuel pump. Has that been fitted? If not, there's your problem right there. Remove the rocker cover and have a peek!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Before you waste $$ on an electrically pump I would first confirm you do indeed have a fuel pump issue. Crank the car - keep cranking it (just drop off the dizzy cap if you must to ensure no spark) with the main feed line off the carbs. Watch the fuel keep coming as the engine is turned over (ie the cams is turning = the mechanical pump will run) if there is no fuel then you have pump issue. If you are getting fuel then I would take a look at the spark side of things next.

 

But just to clear something up.

1. The carbs are from your L24

2. The fuel pump is from your L24

 

and the L24 was going before with these items? or are they from an unknown source?

 

the carbs and fuel pump are out of my L24 and yes the items were working on my L24 before i put them on the L28.

 

Small detail, all L28's do not come with that eccentric cup washer that mounts on the front of the cam gear to operate the mechanical fuel pump. Has that been fitted? If not, there's your problem right there. Remove the rocker cover and have a peek!

the mechanical pump has been fitted at the front near the cam gear. so i need to get that cup washer from the L24 and put it in the L28?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the carbs and fuel pump are out of my L24 and yes the items were working on my L24 before i put them on the L28.

the mechanical pump has been fitted at the front near the cam gear. so i need to get that cup washer from the L24 and put it in the L28?

hmm my bad I assumed you would have installed the cup washer/drive for the fuel pump. Yes that will be your problem you need that :)

 

Assume = makes and Ass-U-Me or makes an ass out of u and me lol

 

Also if you have a haynes manual becareful as one of them (can't recall if it is the 240/260z or the 280zx manuals) has the wrong torque setting for the cam nut. Also make sure the came gear and chain stay put - last thing you need to to have them come off and you pop the chain tensor = front cover has to come off to fix that. It is not likely to happen as you need to really pull of it to get them to come off the dowl etc. However you have your L24 to remove the cup from first so that will give you an idea of what you are in for.

 

If you have a haynes manual just follow that - but just make sure you torque up the cam nut to the correct setting - I will look this up for you now too....will re post soon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hmm my bad I assumed you would have installed the cup washer/drive for the fuel pump. Yes that will be your problem you need that :)

 

Assume = makes and Ass-U-Me or makes an ass out of u and me lol

 

Also if you have a haynes manual becareful as one of them (can't recall if it is the 240/260z or the 280zx manuals) has the wrong torque setting for the cam nut. Also make sure the came gear and chain stay put - last thing you need to to have them come off and you pop the chain tensor = front cover has to come off to fix that. It is not likely to happen as you need to really pull of it to get them to come off the dowl etc. However you have your L24 to remove the cup from first so that will give you an idea of what you are in for.

 

If you have a haynes manual just follow that - but just make sure you torque up the cam nut to the correct setting - I will look this up for you now too....will re post soon.

 

thanks.. but alittle walkthrough on how to do this as i dont want to stuff things up  :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok I see that even Nissan have 2 torque setting in the factory service manual for the cam nut :) so I assume this why the Haynes manual do too. Anyway both time they have the metric torque setting the same so it is only the ft/lb that are different so checking a conversion tool I get 5-6kg is 36-43ft-lb which is wrong as the cam bolt should be around 100ft-lb - I have also attached a copy of the L28 torque settings.

 

also download this PDF which is the FSM for the L20A/L24 this will have the step by step you are looking for - there are other FSM you can download from there too.

http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM%20L20aL24engine.pdf

post-104-144023561985_thumb.png

post-104-144023561998_thumb.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks NZeder, zedman and all those who have helped, i got the car running yesterday and it drives very well, with the L28 in it i was way faster than the L24 so now its back sitting under a car cover i wont be driving this thing while i sell it. and again thanks guys :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

this seems like a painful process for you...where is syd do you live, I live in randwick and could come by for a quick look if need be..........three pages on the forum....arhhhh I feel your frustration!!!

 

PM me I am free Sat 20 Mar morning .....if you live close by

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×