Mr240z Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 What can i say to that.. I just thought you where on something...lol Just impressed with your mechical, video and computer skills. p.s Love your workshed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Does everyone go shirtless in the top-end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Datto Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 I'm assuming you mean.... Shirt......lmao Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Neubauer Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Does everyone go shitless in the top-end? Grammar fail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Aww hell! I'm not having a good Grammar week... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 Is there any other way?? The only reason I shirted up on occasions is when I had to get under the car and lay on the cold floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted August 26, 2009 Author Share Posted August 26, 2009 Well I picked up some ZG flares the other day. Dimitri the champion, (Zedman240) provided me with the nutserts and stainless allen headed screws to go with them. Being such a generous fellow, he also borrowed me his nutsert installation tool to use, now that's service. I obvioulsy browsed heavily over the Hybrid Z thread on the installation of the ZG flares but there isn't a whole lot of pics to help you out. Obvioulsy its all about the positioning of the flares themselves, so I made sure I measured several times before each nutsert hole was drilled. I haven't cut my guards as yet because I'd like to fit my wheels/tyres when I eventually get them before chopping into my Z. The inside of the flare has to sit with the groove between the wheel arches so I sticky taped that side in place while I positioned the rest. From looking a several pics, I'm pretty sure the top two screw holes should sit with an an ever so slight angle towards the center of the car if you know what I mean. I also ran a tape line along the car to get a horizontal plain but the wheel arches themselves arn't even so I don't think it helped. I bought some rubber stripping to go between the flares as well but not the 'flare' rubber that they sell as that stuff was almost as big as the flares themselves. Just a P profile strip that I could slice down the middle and use both top and bottom. I cut sections out just as old mate did on the Hybrid forum. I have painted the flares this arv so I'll give them a sand and second coat tomorrow. Here's a "few" picys I took today: I've also decided since I can't have an OS Giken twin cam head, I'm sure as hell going to paint my standard single cam rocker cover in the same wrinkle coat black . I took a bit to figure out how the wrinkle coat works. I found it needs to dry laying horizontal so do one flat surface at a time and even though it might be touch dry it takes at least 48 hours to get hard. I will hopefully sand back the raised Nissan and stripes at a later date. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted August 27, 2009 Author Share Posted August 27, 2009 Now it definetly needs lowering with fatter rims and rubber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr240z Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Thats looking fat, What wheels do you have in mind.. Man your Zed looks straight, How long ago did you paint it. Are all your back yards that big up there. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted August 27, 2009 Author Share Posted August 27, 2009 Ha, I'm in the suburbs too with only 1004m2 The bloke I bought it off had it painted a few years ago, then it sat at his mates place under a tarp till I bought it. I'd love some rota RB's/superlites/watanabe's. Mossy's ones here look awesome: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2124.msg31412.html#msg31412 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLEXZED Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 this might sound stupid BUT do you have to cut out the guards to fit the ZG flares? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr240z Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 No, You can use std height heavy springs so the wheels don't rub on the guards.. I think I'm right...Pretty sure thats what alot of the japanese do over there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted September 2, 2009 Author Share Posted September 2, 2009 I've made some progress with my own L series itb's. I've made up some dodgey adaptor plates from dcoe to rb26 throttle bodies. There will be some small porting to take care of and the subject of where the injector bosses will go, but other than that the engineering wasn't that tricky. Obvioulsy the tuning might be. At least they've only cost me $300 so far including the manifold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 nice work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scando Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 this might sound stupid BUT do you have to cut out the guards to fit the ZG flares? No, but if you don't you can choose between having no suspension travel or having the car sit-up like a 4WD with a lift kit in it With the ride height I have my car at the wheels would be hitting the original guards if they hadn't been cut even if it had zero suspension travel. Induction setup is looking schweeeet Tim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted October 12, 2009 Author Share Posted October 12, 2009 Well it's been a while due to me swapping internet companies but I've still been playing Datsuns. I bought a set of triple webbers and installed them on the L24. I think they work ok but I'm still attempting to tune them with the gear I have available. First I tried using a uni-sync but not enough air flows through the individual carbs at idle, then I borrowed a nanometer? which is a little fan that measures air speed/flow but that didn't really work either. I originally installed an ran them with the standard L28 manifold so when I took them off to sandblast the manifold I thought I might as well throw the sexy headers on too, as well as the crinkle coated rocker cover (which still needs to be cleaned). I finished making my custom chasis rails and also borrowed a mates MIG. Cut the passenger floor out and welded in the new floor pan. Mig'ing isn't too hard I spose for a first timer. I like how you can put the gun down on the steel and it doesn't strike an arc like a stick welder would. I originally made the chasis rails the same length as the original ones but now I'd like to take them all the way to the rail just before the diff like many people have done on Hybrid Z. This should obvioulsy help stiffen up the chasis. I'm also thinking about welding up a rear strut brace on instead of having a bolt on one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted October 13, 2009 Author Share Posted October 13, 2009 More pics of the floor and chasisfrom today: Apparently I need a synchrometer to tune my webbers. Does anyone know where I could purchase one of these or even borrow one? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 OMFG - is that... Angle Iron is spy?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted October 13, 2009 Author Share Posted October 13, 2009 Do you mean I spy? I was just going to use the box section but decided at the last minute to put some angle on there to distribute the load better, is that a problem? Forgive me for not using the thin off the shelf tin items. I didn't want them to crumple into the body everytime I use a jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 It's just very 'agricultural', Tim :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scando Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 Nice work Tim! I'm looking to do pretty much the exact same thing to mine over summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsfreak Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 the ITB setup is really impressive..and using rb26 gear keeps it all in the family. The new rails look great - I know what your saying - too many originals/and std repo rails are too weak and crush on a jack. awesome work! utube vids are a good touch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brabham Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 Hey, What does the hose do that runs from the brake servo booster to the carbs? The blue one. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzzzed Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 vacume for the brake booster. Your booster will not work with out it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted October 22, 2009 Author Share Posted October 22, 2009 Well the drivers floor pan has gone in and was much easier the second time round. Also getting a bit better at Mig welding. Gave the welds a coat with 'zinc it' then sickaflex'd over the top. As far as seat rails go, is there some rule for how mounting points should be attached to the body. For example I have cut up some alluminium box sections of different size to mount the seat rails to. I was just going to bolt them straight to floor or walls of the floor section??? After that my next mission is converting the rear drums to discs and upgrading the front calipers and discs. I want to stay Nissan so I'm thinking Z32 300ZX fronts and either the same model for the rear. Maybe 300m rotors?? I know there won't be any readily available adaptor plates so I may engineer my own, and have them cut out on a cnc machine....maybe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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