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Neuby

Neuby's red rota'd 240Z

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I've finally graduated out of the bus brigade (refer my other project, which is now a parts car)!  ;D

 

I bought this daily driven car off of Datsfreak.  Funny enough I bought his brother's 260Z 2+2 ex-daily too.  Small world!  It's number 629 which I think is reasonably low for a 240?  ???  It is pretty stock apart from the mega cool  8) Rota RBs and exhaust.  It did have a full resto in the 90's though (thanks Datsfreak for the car history!).

 

I cleaned it up on the weekend and took some photos with the digi SLR...

 

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I haven't even owed the car a week and I already have a formal in November to go to.  It seems I've become the 'car guy' of the neighbourhood  ;D.

 

There is a few maintanence things that need to be attended too like the charging system is on its way out, new ball joints on the steering arms and attention to the steering column combination switch (sticking indicator cost me a $60 fine for 'failing to indicate'!).

 

Plans include:

  • respray in the same red
  • add the ZG flares that I bought for the 2+2 as well as a BRE style spoiler
  • wider wheels to go under the flares (was thinking simmons FR17s)
  • height adjustable coil-overs (Datsfreak threw in some nice eibach springs, just need a sleeving kit)
  • bigger brakes front and rear (Datsfreak threw in a 15/16 MC)
  • finally build that dang L31 I've been collecting parts for! (I have both F54 and N42 blocks now, N42 courteous of Datsfreak)
  • speedhut gauge faces (because I can barely read the stock gauges as is!  ;D)
  • fixed back seats and ADR 4 point harnesses
  • half cage (way down the track!)
  • suspension work, ie harder bushes, swaybars, etc

 

I would like to take this opportunity to thank Datsfreak for all his help!  Good luck with the R33.

 

The end use of this car will be mainly Sunday driving and Sunday track driving  ;D.

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Nice, looks like a very tidy car.  This was a great pick-up at the price he was asking.

 

May I suggest a 5 or 6 point harness?  4 points are getting phased out for CAMS use and are hard to get to sit right across your waist.

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If you want some Simmons Wheels may I suggest you order soon as Simmons are closeing down...

 

Also IMHO, it'd be a shame to cut the rear guards on it to fit the flares as it's so straight.

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looks a treat.

what size are the rims ?

 

No idea which ones they exactly are but Datsfreak got them through Benzed so they would be off the list on sizes/offsets he sells.

 

Nice, looks like a very tidy car.  This was a great pick-up at the price he was asking.

 

May I suggest a 5 or 6 point harness?  4 points are getting phased out for CAMS use and are hard to get to sit right across your waist.

 

I would love a 5 point harness but to my knowledge they aren't ADR approved.  If there are ADR approved harness that are more than 4 point TELL ME NOW!!!  ;D  I want the lap sashes gone!

 

If you want some Simmons Wheels may I suggest you order soon as Simmons are closeing down...

 

Also IMHO, it'd be a shame to cut the rear guards on it to fit the flares as it's so straight.

 

Under the rear guards will need a good tidy up to fit over the rims 'properly'.  There is some evidence of rubbing on the rear tires.  That sucks about Simmons!  That will sure dent my plans sideways.....

 

Thanks for the interest anyways.

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No idea which ones they exactly are but Datsfreak got them through Benzed so they would be off the list on sizes/offsets he sells.

 

I think I remember Datsfreak saying in another thread that they were 17 X 8.5

 

I would love a 5 point harness but to my knowledge they aren't ADR approved.  If there are ADR approved harness that are more than 4 point TELL ME NOW!!!  ;D  I want the lap sashes gone!

 

My car is registered with a 6 point but it's only registered as a rally car so that might be how I get around it.  I'll try to remember to look at my harness next time I'm working on the car and see what markings are on it.

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Bit of an update.

 

I'm waiting on a set of L24 rods to be able to send off the bottom end to be balanced.  I still have time before the rods arrive so I can still choose which block to use.  I have both an N42 block (N42 head off of this is no good....can anyone say BLOCK PUTTY!!  :o) and an F54 block (with N42 head out of a patrol).  I will only be using 89mm pistons, but I have conflicting advice as to which block to use.  Can anyone lend advice??  ???

 

In the meantime, I may try to adapt one of the RB20DET boxes I have lying around as per the guide Lurch posted.  As the 260z 2+2 tailshaft fits the spline of the RB box, I will most likely shorten it to suit.  Hopefully the RB20DET box would be able to take the torque of the stroker....... :-X

 

I will most likely copy Zedman's brake upgrade, so its time to hit Ebay! I have a very good mate (not in THAT way...) who is a fitter and turner so it shouldn't cost much for machining *cough cough*.  For the rear's I will get in contact with Robco Eng for their bracket for the 280ZX calipers.

 

I will probably be selling my ZG flares and front bar that I got from Benzed as I don't particularly want to 'damage' the car so to speak.  Be watching 'parts for sale' if your interested!  I will probably get a BRE style spoiler and fit that.

 

Cheers,

Neubs

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Bit of a sad update.

 

A few weeks ago, while doing a spark plug and oil change, I discovered a crack in the head (L24 E88) between the heater hose line and spark plug no.6. Since then (the car only was driven 2 or 3 times a month) the half has drained down to the level of the crack.  Some water has entered sump leading me to believe the crack was more serious.  I have not started or moved the car since discovering the crack.

 

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This has prompted me in to swift action to push the L28 build along.  I have a few build options but I am not sure which path to take.  The camshaft selection and headwork to be done (unshroud the valves, emmery paper through the ports, bowling of the area behind the valve seats and smoothing of the combustion chamber) will remain unchanged regardless of bottom end build.  The camshaft will be one that allows for breathing leaning towards top end.  Carburation will be from 45 Webers and failing that, an ITB setup, but I would prefer webers for the sound :P.  This engine isn't designed to be streeted very often....

 

The first build would be a L28 stroker using the LD28 crank, L24 rods and a mystery flat top piston  ;D

 

The second would be using the L28 crank L28 rods and maybe 0.040" flat top pistons.

 

I have 2 L28's worth of stuff as well as a set of L24 rods (9mm) and the LD28 crank.  The only thing I don't have to finish either build is pistons.  The quandary that keeps my up at night is to build the flat top L28 and sell the L24 rods and LD28 crank or build the stroker.....what to do.....

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CP pistons in the US make custom forged pistons to whatever specifications you want.  Mine were $1400 and Hodgo got a quote the other day which came out at around the same price.  Might be worth considering.

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When I was last speaking with Rob from Robco he was building up a 3.1L stroker for himself in his 260Z maybe ask him for first hand advice?? Lynton 8)

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Quote-

I will probably be selling my ZG flares and front bar that I got from Benzed as I don't particularly want to 'damage' the car so to speak.

 

+1 on the flares I hate seeing zeds hacked to put flares on :P

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Quote-

I will probably be selling my ZG flares and front bar that I got from Benzed as I don't particularly want to 'damage' the car so to speak.

 

+1 on the flares I hate seeing zeds hacked to put flares on :P

 

 

Fronts aren't so bad. Quite a few guards around. But hacking into the rear quarters makes me cry. But I do like the results.

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I'll try to remember to look at my harness next time I'm working on the car and see what markings are on it.

 

I finally remembered to do this today, lol.

 

Nah, no ADR markings unfortunately, just the FIA ones.

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I finally remembered to do this today, lol.

 

Nah, no ADR markings unfortunately, just the FIA ones.

 

Bugger!  Looks like I might have to stick with a 4 pointer...

 

L28 & enjoy the revs... ;D

 

Another option I have thought of is an engine conversion.  After all I do have enough RB20DET bits to make 2.5 engines....................

 

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Hey Neuby,

 

I notice that you originally said there was evidence of rubbing on the rear tyres, yet you are not putting flares on anymore. How did you solve this problem?

 

I love the look of your wheels and am seriously considering getting a set of 17 Rota RBs but I've got a 260 2 seater so I think I'll have issues if the smallest width I can get is 8.5.

 

Whats your suspension setup? Did you end up getting the Speedhut faces?

 

 

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Hey Neuby,

 

I notice that you originally said there was evidence of rubbing on the rear tyres, yet you are not putting flares on anymore. How did you solve this problem?

 

I love the look of your wheels and am seriously considering getting a set of 17 Rota RBs but I've got a 260 2 seater so I think I'll have issues if the smallest width I can get is 8.5.

 

Whats your suspension setup? Did you end up getting the Speedhut faces?

 

 

 

Nah mate, I've been preoccupied with renovating the house thats why not much of my list has been completed.  I'm at a stage where I have to wait for council approval on some plans before I can get to the major stuff so I'm getting back to the zed. 

 

My rims are 8.5.  The inside of the rear guards have been trimmed, just a little roughly, which was the cause of the rubbing/gouging.  The suspension is stock but spring landing clears the rim by maybe 5mm.  It was a bit of a surprise when I first saw it and I would like to get some coilovers seats (I have 3 pairs of eibach springs to suit the struts) as I can see something bad happening if the rim were to flex a great deal ie. pot hole.

 

I still haven't got any speedhut faces.  Who/how did you get your set through?

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Hmm I'm running lowered King springs and koni reds on my 260z so I'm not sure whether that would make it easier or harder for me to run 8.5 wide.

 

I got my speedhut gauges from speedhut America, ordered online. Transaction was pretty straight forward and it arrived in a couple weeks.

 

If you have read my thread you'll know I had an issue illuminating the needles. I have found that with my setup the best kind of lighting for the needles is to use blue bulbs to replace the white ones in the stock holders. I don't have any photos because I don't have a camera capable of taking night shots but my Taco has a blue bulb in it and my speedo has a white bulb.

 

I find the blue light to look really good, it hardly shows on the face itself but illuminates the needle nicely in blue. The white light looks OK but nowhere near as nice as the blue. I ordered the blue light bulbs from an american ebayer.

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Cool, cool, I'll look into this "online" ordering thing ;D

 

The L30 build has started and will hopefully be in and running in two months time.  Fingers crossed everything goes to plan.....

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Time for an update!

 

The search for a temporary EFI manifold is over.  Many thanks to Japjag who only wanted a set of extractors in return for a full EFI setup off a 280C!

 

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I'll probably use some RB20DET injectors and one of the many throttle bodies I have lying around.  I will probably use a megasquirt unless something good value pops up on evil-bay.

 

I had a few spare hours on the weekend so I started a rough in of cylinder 1 on the N42 head.  Aluminium heads are much nicer to work on than holden 186 and 202 heads. ;D  I only degreased the head as having the carbon dust on the runner walls helps as it shows where the pits are.  I will wait til the block has been overbored to suit the new pistons before I unshroud the valves.  Here are a few pics.

 

 

BEFORE

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AFTER 2 HOURS ROUGH IN

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INTAKE RUNNERS

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Still lots more material to take out and a lot of match porting between the head and the manifolds.  Stay tuned, more to come (hopefully!)  :D

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Hahaha! Pointless work much?

Sorry Neuby, but IMHO your wasting your time doing that to the head - unlesss I'm missing something...

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Remember there is only 2 hours work there, there is a fair bit more to do.  I only posted them because I thought someone *might* be interested in seeing the stages.

 

The work around the valves is blending in the area around the valve seats by removing that lip and sharp edges around the valve.  Standard procedure to increase flow at low valve lifts along with unshrouding.  The fine blending will be done after the new valve seats are fitted.  If the machinist recessed the new valves I'll be mighty upset! haha.

 

The work around the spark plug is something I thought I would try by removing sharp edges that could be potential high heat concentration areas.  The idea is to promote even heat distribution.  Whether it works or not, I don't know! haha.  The end CR should be between 10.3 and 10.5:1 with the pistons we're using.

 

I don't want to weld up the head and go for the fully modified kidney bean combustion chamber sizing just yet.  If I get greedy in the future I might! haha

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hey Neuby,

Ill have a look - somewhere ,from long ago, I had some pics of L6 porting that rebello did.

If I find it Ill email them to you, it give good ideas on what works on the l6.

 

My brother ZBITZ has just bought a rb25det for one of his project s30's, so he probably has a couple of p90 heads if you wanted to go that way. Think he has a p90a head - the hydraulic lifters one - if you wanted to do something  different. 

Hope the car is progressing nicely..

 

 

 

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