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looks nice and clean. good work

;D

 

Thanks Mick

 

If anyone can appreciate it I know you can, Now if I can just get everything above the sill panels in the same order I'll be over the moon.

 

Cheers

 

John

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When your finished your's, can mine be next....lol

 

Great work, Wish i had some space to do mine.

 

 

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When your finished your's, can mine be next....lol

 

Great work, Wish i had some space to do mine.

 

Thanks Buddy

 

 

I think we should all put in a $1000 per member, and buy a warehouse somewhere and set up a communal space, because believe me I aint got that much space.......LOL

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hey John

 

i was wondering if there is any other colour "plastic dip " comes in

 

looking at doing something similar inside the car BUT i want it in BLACK (like black black), how many coats can be applied?

 

can it be paint over with a 2 pac finish?

 

where can i get same ????

 

Loui

 

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hey John

 

i was wondering if there is any other colour "plastic dip " comes in

 

looking at doing something similar inside the car BUT i want it in BLACK (like black black), how many coats can be applied?

 

can it be paint over with a 2 pac finish?

 

where can i get same ????

 

Loui

 

Loui,

 

Considering the cost of the stuff, $400.00 for 4 litres, and that the interior trim will cover it all up, I wouldnt suggest doing it, you would be better off using an enamel finish inside.

 

It does come in about 5 different colors, here is the link to the distributor

 

http://www.plastidip.net.au/

 

I would rather spend the bucks for the inside on good deadening pads over a good enamel finish, the plasti dip cannot be 2pac enameled over.

 

Cheers

 

John

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Hi all,

 

As you can all see Ive been bored to tears not being able to update anything about my build and therefore have been putting my 2 bobs worth in other threads while as I have been waiting for my mate to come around (The PPG Rep) and give me some direction on the best way to seal up the car.

 

Well, the verdict is not PPG but Sikkens "EP Primer Surfacer"

 

OK, so what does EP stand for, Epoxy Polyester, but suprise suprise, it also contains an etch primer component.

 

So for all of you who may have been waiting to find out the course of action, the plan is as follows.

 

All repaired panels can have the "EP" applied either partially or entirely, in other words, I have a couple of small areas inside the engine bay that have been repaired and had body filler skimmed over them, in this case rather than doing the entire bay, I will just apply a few coats feather edged out which I will then dry sand, the good news is that while "EP" cannot, and I say cannot be applied over etch primer, it can have a covering coat applied over it, so the plan is that once these repairs are preped post sanding, I will then etch prime the remaining exposed metal in the bay and then apply 2K Sikkens primer of that, this will mean a hell less material to apply and rub prior to final finish.

 

With the outer panel, like 1/4's turret etc etc etc, I will edge to edge finish them in "EP" dry sand, then apply etch to the inner gussets seams etc followed by primer.

 

The "Sikkens EP" has a reputation as the best bare metal primer surfacer available with exceptional adhesion properties, but as I mentioned before, you can not wet rub it, only dry, the final 2K primer surfacer can however once applied over it but you must be careful not to rub through.

 

The materials will be delivered to me next week, and the plan is to have it done next weekend, if anyone has questions feel free to PM me.

 

Cheers

 

John

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OK,

 

dropped into mums today and she has this poster sized pic of me plasted on my old bedroom wall, so I took a pic of it.

 

Yeah Yeah, it was 1984, Mullets were in as were centerlines, I was the first in Australia to fit them back then as I had to have them specially ordered and waited 3 weeks fro them to drill the stud pattern.

 

Cheers

 

John

post-1356-144023550003_thumb.jpg

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mine is a 05/75 2 seater RS30 chassis # 005067, so almost 5000 units before yours, but only 7 months apart from registration dates.

 

Ha... Mine is RS30 01/75 chassis #005012

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Lurch, yep 14 x 7's thats all I could get and ran Toyo 60 series 215's back then, I still have them as a matter of fact, I was always worried about brake fade due to the lack of ventilation, however found there were no ill effect.

 

scotag, mine was first registered 5/75 but the Australian compliance plate is stamped 01/75 also, they must have shared the ride over from Yokohama.

 

But, can you beat this,

 

Still have the

 

Original bill of sale

Service Books

and

The original L26 motor so all numbers matching.

 

Have even tracked down the original owner, he has no idea the car exists nor that I have found him, so there is a trip planned to Ballarat to re-introduce him with his ride from 75 sometime in the future.

 

 

 

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Yeah Mick, well as soon as I find my missing albumn in this house somewhere, Ill show you a few picks of me bare metaling her, and my first car the 78 Ford XC 351 Cobra build # 163.

 

I still dream about that car literally.

 

But come on post a few for us to see that I wasnt the only one with a mullet.

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hehe i had a killa mullet. But unfortunatly i dont have a scanner to coppy the pics so i cant put them up  ;) well thats my excuse any way lol

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Pyker !

 

By the way, I still have the jumper I was wearing in that pic, and has anyone noticed 2 things about the car that aint usual for a 260Z ?

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scotag, mine was first registered 5/75 but the Australian compliance plate is stamped 01/75 also, they must have shared the ride over from Yokohama.

 

Sorry wasn't meaning that my car is better cause it's earlier build, just that they are only 55 apart. Mine also has the matching numbers engine.

 

So the original owner lives in Ballarat?

 

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Sco,

 

I didnt take it that way at all...........LOL

 

Yes, apparently a dentist from what I can guage, should make an interesting story, hopefully if I am granted the privelage of having a story done on the forum of the project, I would like to include the re-union as part of it.

 

It would be great to try and see who else is in our number range.

 

Cheers

 

John

 

P.S. what color was yours originally?, mine was metalic green.

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[by the way, I still have the jumper I was wearing in that pic, and has anyone noticed 2 things about the car that aint usual for a 260Z ?

 

i can see 1

 

THE DRIVER is to big for the car

 

;D ;D ;D ;D

 

Loui

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No Cigar,

 

The driver is not part of the cars construction, good point though.

 

Next

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i can see 1

 

THE DRIVER is to big for the car

 

;D ;D ;D ;D

 

Loui

 

I was thinking a similar thing but being nice..... I was going to say that the car looked small.  ;D

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looks like Nissan sent a shipment over of that color then, no wonder it took 5 months for mine to be sold, I personally hated the color when i purchased the car originally.

 

And so as not to turn this into a Lurch type saga, these are the 2 points.

 

First, the bumpers are running full face VB Commodore rubbers, which I mentioned in a previous thread, theres the proof that I did it in 1984 the year after I purchased the car and restored it first time.

 

Second, take a hard look at the bonnet and near the rear 1/4 glass, the car was 2 tone, gunmetal greay and a lighter silver grey, the colors were being used on the Mazda 929's at the time, there was a painted pin stripe the same as the bonnet color laid down before the clear coat that ran along the guards, then on the top door edge and tapered off to a point at the 1/4 glass.

 

That pic was taken in late September 1984 just a few days after my 19th birthday.

 

 

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You didn't give us enough time to respond.

My two were going to be paint and front bumper. Oh well, it looked like a nice car, hopefully this time it looks even better.

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