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NZeder

NZeder 260z RB26 powered, triple DCOE throttle bodied NA project

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Well you make me look did you John.....I have spent the last 1/2 hour looking over the Nissan Fast system and what do I find - a model of Nissan that is now 20 years old aka should be lots of wrecks around, and how many actuators does it have no matter which model controller is install (ie buttons or fanny like yours) the setup as 4 actuators.

 

One for recycle, one for blend/water tap, one for vent door, and the main unit. So this looks like this might work....now I am going to have to try and find one of these in the local pick-a-part and rob it of parts.

 

LMAO

 

Where there is a will there is a way, and stay tuned to my thread as i have a WHPPA of a story to tell soon.

 

Mike I was also looking at a tap system on a Lexus, it uses a remote air valve to open and close the tap with its own vacuum pump which is activated by an electrical signal, what I was thinking was maybe use some type of resistor so as when a charge came through from the unit it activates or deactivates the pump, what do you think?

 

This would dispense with the need for an actuator.

 

If you need some searching done for this MYSTERY unit this side of the pond just send me a PM

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Ok I got the AirCon amplifier that controls the actuator that hooks into the water tap (and the blend/air mixing door on the factory later model Nissan's). I have traced out the wiring and got the actuator working using a cable to open/close the stock water tap.

 

So all actuators are installed/mounted, I need to tidy up the looms for each part then I will paint up the brackets and document the install with pictures and a write up.

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Way to go Mike !

 

Looking forward to the video when you have time.

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Ok been a long time again. Not a lot to report on the progress on my 76 260z project but have some news.

 

So like I need another 260z 2 seater that needs final assembly - but that is what I now have.

 

This is the spec

NZ new January 1974 (manufactured August 1973)

Low 260z chassis ID under 120

Strut to strut full chrome molly cage

Adjustable suspension, coilovers, LCA, TC etc all adjustable.

4 pot wilwood calipers on all 4 corners, rears have internal drum for park brake

Dry sumped RB30DE engine between the front struts

Autronics ECU

 

Things missing

Windscreen and windscreen chrome :-(

Window regulators

Seats

Fuel pumps and regulator

I am sure small little things.

 

What needs to be done

ECU wiring

Fuel lines run

Install front suspension correctly

Assembly

 

Not 100% sure what I am going to do but one idea is this.

Install RB30DE in the 76 260z with the DCOE ITB removing dry sump (keeping that for the 73 260z aka track car)

Install L28 with work ie dry sump triple 44 mikuni's etc in the 73 260z track car given the ECU loom needs to be done and the fuel system conversion now is the time to keep the 73 carbs and making more correct for classic racing.

 

So that is one plan. First I plan to get the suspension and brakes sorted and interior fitted (complete the work already done). Then I make a call on the engine config, but I like the idea of the road car with the EFI RB30DE power and L6 for the track car (opens the car to more classes locally)

 

Ok pic time

thumbs_260z-1.jpg thumbs_260z-2.jpg thumbs_260z-3.jpg thumbs_260z-4.jpg thumbs_260z-5.jpg thumbs_260z-6.jpg thumbs_260z-7.jpg thumbs_260z-8.jpg thumbs_260z-9.jpg thumbs_260z-10.jpg thumbs_260z-11.jpg

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Well done Mike...good to see it all worked out OK, you lucky b#*tard!

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Sure got some nice gear there NZeder.

 

Don't know if the mag is available in kiwi, but Performance Imports (issue: 132) has that semi-carbon fiber 240, it's got a NA RB30 with triples, very nice engine.

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Did you get this up and running?

 

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Did you get this up and running?

one day I will - keep adding things to the family, first the second 260z track car, then a Honda VFR800 01 in Blue (to replace the 08 in Black sold for the $$ to purchase the 260z track car) and now baby number 4 - that is kids this time not cars/bikes. So I have 2 x boys, 2 x girls, 2 x 260z and 1 x VFR800, then the D21 single cab wellside 4x4 2.7 tubro for the farm, a people mover for the wife to cart all these kids around and my work wagon a suby Forester.

 

So the car is still a kit set waiting for me to get into the garage and assemble - that is all that is required. And I sold the DCOE ITB and ECU long the way to help pay for the track 260z also so it will be running triple minuki's and a Electomotive crank trigger setup when I get that back from another local racer here in NZ who is running it in for me since his (one of the origial items) failed after 20+ years.

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Bit the same for me... Life has a tendency to leave these projects sitting in the shed. How much was it for the RB26/DCOE Adaptors?

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Right long time between working on a zed - any zed of mine that is.

 

So I have done a little bit of work on both cars over the xmas break so far.

 

Some might recall that for the road car (the green one with steel flares) I was changing the cable operated heater for actuators from a later Nissan (just about any Nissan of the early mid 90's vintage) This is a push button control head with a variable resistor on the temp settings/slider. There is an electronic amp that reads the air temp in the cabin, the setting on the variable resistor and opens or closes the tap to control the hot water flow in the heater radiator. This amp also controls a series of relays to set the fan speed when in the auto mode.

 

Anyway the factory vent/airflow box from these later Nissans (N14, N15, P10 etc) usages just one actuator that controls all the modes - ie Face, Face/Foot, Foot, Foot/Defog, Defog. However I could not get this setup on the stock 260z Airflow box (the center bit the radiator in it) so the plan was to get it working with 2 actuators, the stock one and an additional vent door actuator from the same setup.

 

So the standard main actuator controls the standard center flapper door with the additional actuator controlling just the foot vent door. So the next step to getting this working was to work out how to control the foot door from the control unit - using a stripped down unit to expose the circuit board I worked out the how it operated on the bench - however using the feeds from the main actuator were not going to work as the power is removed once the actuator was in its correct position. This meant the foot door would not fully open or close before the power source was removed.

 

Plan B - use the LED indicators on the control unit and a custom circuit to control the foot door actuator as required. After 2 version of circuit (one using 5 transistors, resistors and diodes = big circuit board and one failed attempt due to me not thinking about + source as the trigger when I only had a ground trigger from the control unit...doh) a solution was found using a NAND Gate and some NPN transistors to turn on the actuator via its two ground connections.

 

The actuator has 3 wires to control it - +12V and the 2 ground points which position the actuator. 1 Ground point drives it 1/2 way around the other drives it the remaining 1/2 way back to the start.

 

The heater control unit grounds a spare pin to earth when the corresponding switch is depressed (LED is on at the same time). So these were used on my NAND gate inputs which were tied high with a pull resistor.

 

I used a 4023 triple NAND gate chip with all the inputs as stated pulled high by default which meant the output was low. When any of the inputs goes low (given only one switch only be depressed at once via a physical locking switch setup on the control panel) and the others are high then the output is high also (aka +12v). I used 2 of the NAND gates in the chip - one for the foot door close location and one for the foot door open. So now I had my outputs from the 4023 chip as required - when the foot door was to be closed (Face only button depressed, or the Defog only button depressed) then I would get a +12v on the corresponding pin on the chip and like wise for the door open (face/foot, foot, foot/def). Now I just needed to use a NPN transistor to take the logic +12v single and turn that into a ground on the load and connect that to the correct pin on the actuator.

 

Using a multimeter to meausre the current draw from the actuator I could then calculate the resistors I needed to drive the NPN transistor correctly (reads switch it on and off as required based on the output from the NAND gate).

 

Result = actuator control circuitry working as required for less than $20 worth of parts (including the 2 circuit board setup that were not ideal or did not work for the given requirements - 25 years since I last did electronics so I was expecting some errors in my thinking/circuit building.) If I build the correct circuit from the start cost would have been around $10 with most of the in the board and the box it sits in and only $4 of electronics.

 

So that is what I did on the road car.

 

Race car - installed the front brakes, attempted to install my rears - found out I had my rear brackets made up incorrectly = too thick on the ears = offset not right 1mm out = calipers did not fit. So I will need to get the brackets milled down by 1mm - but I will wait until I get the car to the fabricators shop and he can check it out himself, update his drawing and either fix these brackets. I started on the loom cut down, working on the rear loom first removing speaker wires, electric aerial wires, interior doom light and wires for the rear window demister/defogger (why would I need them in there on the race car given the screen in there does have one anyway). So that is a far as I got on them - 4 kids sock up so much time.....so next up is the rewire of the front loom with 2 circuits - lights/acc circuit/loom then engine loom - so I will have 2 looms going to the engine bay. The idea is that everything that is needed to run the engine is on separate loom - this way I can id issue faster and at the track who cares if the lights/horn etc are not working.

 

So not a lot to report but at least it is something (attached is an image of the internals of the ZC4023 that I used - I will post the full circuit once I draw it up from my hand drawn mess)

 

Happy New Year to all too.

post-104-144023738754_thumb.png

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Wow can't believe it has been that long since I last updated this thread.

 

1. All RB stuff gone.

2. 74 260z fully caged car gone and replaced with a 1970 Mini Cooper S replica (slow but lots of fun).

3. Nothing changed on the 76 260z road car - one day I will find the time and energy to put the kit set back together.

 

Things I need to do in the shed.

 

1. Tidy it up (always needs this).

2. Remove all the parts hanging on the wall - ie guards, bonnet, hatch etc.

3. Put building paper, insulation up then line the shed so it is not freezing in winter and too hot in summer (this is one of the reasons nothing is getting done + 4 kids aka time vampires as I call them).

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Was wondering where you had disappeared to  ;)

 

Dont fret, you are not the only one with a long term project LOL

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