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Gaijin

Gaijin

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Right then,

 

its been such a long time between posts, thought best to update the situation;

 

 

 

ER34 rear bushes from Noltec. Trademe have some reasonable prices for these. Frank De Jong is the contact, helpful, delivers for free too.

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There is a few missing, kids eh.

 

Rear subframe bush ready for transplant.

 

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Rear camber arms back in. Bought off trademe, for a sniff over $100, the welding was poor. Ground the welds back, re-tig'd them, and sent back to the Xrayer man for OK. Phew. Dont expect the stock ones to pass certs, WOF etc.

 

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Only the sway bar to go back in, more or less. Oh yeah,  struts as well. Ron Millan in today to measure up. Better lose that hand bud.

 

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Big dog tailshaft hoop installed. Tailshaft by Beatties, spec'd for 700hp. Nothing re-used from old skyline, as itll be too weak for thrashing. Hoop required for certification.

 

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Hard to see, but, handbrake mods to bracketry. Single cable to twin, made custom mount.

 

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Getting back to the business end of the car;

 

Electric water pump arrived with controller.

 

Mounting under the intake manifold, probably.

 

Its the bigger 110l/hr, with fan on the back. Controller is micro-processor. Very 80's...

I jest, but it will be a good addition to the car. Turbo timer, whatever! Run the pump once the engine has stopped for a few minutes.

Good solid fast trips to the corner shop then.

 

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Enough of that for now,

 

10" fan fits ok. Will get two in there.

 

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My pikes peak escudo sized K&N is too big to fit now intake pipe roughly done.

Ill play around with this later this week.

Ignore the coolant hose yah.

 

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Grill aint looking too bad considering. Would prefer the Fairlady version,  mesh style. Perhaps someone has a new/nice one in their garage they could sell to me?

swap, please, hello?

 

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Oil blow by 2 litre catch can in, with lovingly welded bracket.

Hoses attached and completed.

 

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Shroud made for the rear of the radiator to intercooler.

It is structural, holding the cooler, along with a bottom support, all in ally.

 

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Bosch cobra water pump for cooler sitting in its home. This is a stock order pump from USA, from a

 

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GReddy type R BOV in its possible home.

Will recycle hot filthy air back into the turbo intake, for max response, and turbo spooling

The cooler is made of 3-4mm plate ally, so we can fit directly to this, with maybe only a little strengthening required.

and everything STILL fits under the stock bonnet...

 

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Intake pipe nice n tight

 

The whole lot there is rubber mounted, so no cracking.

Wouldnt mind the JP style hundreds of welds style inlet pipe, using sections.

Sure looks fat next to the little engine

 

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The car is out of here next week, so the clock is ticking!

 

Next mission, PANEL & PAINT

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Attempting to decide on paint and external appearance is daunting really, easy to make or break the cars looks.

 

Here are some cars that take my eye, that may look similar in some ways to what we can produce.

 

In no specific order,

apologies already if links break

plenty of lovely s30's ive missed out on, cant post them all...sorry

 

IMG_0620.jpg

 

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jin-z2-1.jpg

 

240zg-1.jpg

 

jin-z2.jpg

 

528zg-4.gif

 

240Z9.jpg

 

s30pic10.jpg

 

s30pic12.jpg

s30pic9.jpg

 

s30pic8.jpg

s30pic11.jpg

 

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Ive not got the gnose, so thats out for now.

 

New chrome front bumper.

2nd hand chrome rear, avg condition

 

Chrome or painted?

 

 

Flares 2 tone to body?

 

Out to take more high res pics tomo and the local photoshop expert tomo....

 

Also looks like one of santas elves has been identified as Mike Lucas (thanks Mike - hugely!). Will begin play with bonnet gas strut mod for the fibreglass lid arriving next week from

Wayne Croft, he makes them,  along with other fibreglass goods for zeds, spoilers, gaurds etc. Christchuch based.

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since you already have the gold throughout parts of your car my vote would have to be for millenium jade off r34 gtr NUR's - which have gold rocker covers conincidently

 

800px-Nissan_Skyline_R34_GT-R_N%C3%BCr_001.jpg

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You may have the hit the nail on the proverbial!

 

Perfect, almost a titanium colour, off silver/light bronze.

 

drool

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since you already have the gold throughout parts of your car my vote would have to be for millenium jade off r34 gtr NUR's - which have gold rocker covers conincidently

 

800px-Nissan_Skyline_R34_GT-R_N%C3%BCr_001.jpg

Yes nice colour I like it. Has that Skyline connection to go with the engine ;) and yet not too flashy to make the old school body look out of place like some modern colours.

Cheers

Mike

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The club in progress

 

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Speaking about welds

3" SS pipe between resonators, middle of exhaust -ish

 

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Tiller of HMS 'Gaijin'

Autogauge rev and smokey speed meter

3 - 6 other 60mm pending. 3 on dash, 3 mounted in glovebox behind the lid.

 

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these didnt fit. Left one is not what I want, its r34, mine requires a R33 gtr for some reason as on the right. Eh?

Ron Millan getting all bushes into rear end, and shock manfacture. Top spherical mount, lower to rubber mount attachement on hub assembly.

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With left over 4" ally intake pipe in hand,  an intercooler top up tank,  mounted higher than the rest of the coolant in the system. Get rid of some aeration issues -

Noticing the radiator connect only tack welded. handy

 

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Now THAT is a brake pedal!  How hard you planning to stand on that thing?  You've got me wondering if mine is up to scratch now, mine just has the balance bar tube welded straight to the pedal with no reinforcing.... still, our racecars have it done the same way and they don't seem to bend, I guess if it does I just have to pull it out and send it to New Zealand!

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+1 with that!

 

But even with bigger brakes fitted, meaning less pedal effort do you still need to box up the brake pedal? Or because you are running without a booster and tandem cylinders there will be more braking pressure on the pedal? You are going to have to put up a video on youtube when its running...dying to hear and see it running!! Excellent job there! ;D

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The brake pedal see action , probably because I have a tendancy in cars to quicly decipher the worst points of it, some cars have pedal that twist under heavy load, for Gaijin, the pedal loads for an assumed acheivable (slick on yeah) 1.2G, was around 35kg pedal force. It bugger all, set low in fact so the misses can also engage in driving. It will lose out in sensitivity on the other hand. Change the MC sizes a fraction and you are away.

 

An adjustable pedal point would also be cool, damn, got me thinking again.

 

Yeah pedal may see some lightening efforts too, uzi should do  it

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I attempted to decipher that comment, but it made my brain hurt...

 

It's looking good mate & yes, that's a serious pedal!

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man those welds are so impresive  :o.. now im gone to the shed for more practice in welding  ::)

 

crazy car cant wait till its done i also vouch for the GTR colour.

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Yeah, thats a good point, it doesnt read well at all.

 

Ill try again.

 

In a much earlier post, I may have attached a brake spreadsheet showing calcs.

 

I inputed a max pedal force, which was 35kg * 9.81 =xxx

 

another input was max decceleration, which I reckon to be best at 1.2G (slowing down), with some half decent slicks on, on the race track.

 

This 35kg on the pedal was used as a lowly figure, since the wife also would like to drive Gaijin, considering it doesnt have a booster. So it should be easy to squeeze the brakes, at some loss of pedal sensitivity, ie. the ability to continually recieve feedback from the pedal, and to adjust the force on the pedal to maximise the braking opportunities.

 

This feedback back to the foot, ie. the resistance to pushing, reactive force, is best left 'clean', without any other 'brake system' inefficiencies, such as brake pedal deflection, twist, brake bleeding issues, brake line expansion, etc etc etc.

 

I guess its like the torsional rigidity of the s30 chassis, or any vehicle chassis. Effectively always a spring, with its own natural frequency of vibration. It will have a determined spring rate, can be found by several methods. The more ridig the chassis is in torsion, the higher the spring rate can be used on each wheel. Ensuring that each wheel does the moving , not the chassis.

 

anyways, hence the beefy pedal. happy to get fat in a few small areas, for what I reckon as good potential gains (for the crazy and perticular driver that is).

 

If in fact the applied pedal loads (say the 35kg at an assumed 1.2g decel.) are too 'light', and too 'touchy', it is easiest to either;

 

- change the MC sizes to a different bore size, and then fine tune the front/rear split using the brake balance bar

 

and/or

 

- change the pedal ratio to something a little lower, like 5.5:1, so less leverage onto the MC, which means a 'harder' pedal, which may take applied pedal load to something like 50kg, at an assumed 1.2g decel. This gives me more range in applying a pedal force, which gives me a better sensitivity, better for racing on the very limit.

 

Hope this is more clear, sorry for being cryptic, having strong chemo for angry cancer, so meds are making my brain take many short cuts when typing this tech? stuff out.

 

 

 

 

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But even with bigger brakes fitted, meaning less pedal effort do you still need to box up the brake pedal? Or because you are running without a booster and tandem cylinders there will be more braking pressure on the pedal?

 

As Gaijin has said, with a non boosted twin master setup pedal effort becomes very hard, dependant on master cylinders.  Smaller master cylinders give a 'softer' feel, with a more spongy pedal, while a big master cylinder has been described by people who have driven the Group A Ignis Alfa GTV6 as 'like standing on concrete.'

 

To give an idea of what driving a car with a pedal box feels like, disconnect the vacuum from your booster and go for a drive - you will find the pedal is firm from the very top, and a light application of the brake pedal (as typically used for coming up to traffic lights etc) does exactly what it feels like - applies the brakes very lightly.  To make the car stop, you have to stand on the pedal as hard as you want the calipers to grab. 

 

A booster is multiplying your foots force by a certain amount - say for example 10.  So if you stand on the pedal with 1kg of force (imagine pushing your foot on a scale to get it to read 1kg), the actual force being applied to the piston in your master cylinder is 10kg with a booster.  Without the booster, to achieve the same amount of braking at the wheels, you need to stand on the pedal with 10kg of force.

 

Gross simplification here, as the addition of a second master cylinder into the system changes everything again from a twin circuit single master.  The end result of a pedal box is that you get much better fine control over your braking, at the expense of having to stand harder on the pedal.  Painful in a road car, but bearable?  I'll tell you in a month or so.....

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.

 

 

 

Local USA old school

 

 

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Road Race Rally Ltd.

Ron has  helped me with shocks and bushes.

 

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Bilsteins, revalved, 200+ lb (cant remember) springs, spherical bearing top mount, ajustable threaded collar height - so a show 'dumping' of the car another 70+mm - not safe for road use...

 

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Ron also sweated out the old rear subframe bushes for harder types, two rear points have eccentric bolt for further  camber change point. Bushes didnt come in plain non adjustable variety, and were economical.

 

 

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Plenty of work to go,

 

Panel

Paint

Electrical/ECU install

Interior

ECU Tuning and brake/suspension setup

Cert

WOF/REGO

 

more or less...perhaps not much considering the journey so far...

 

Anyways,

 

Tried the lock to lock with the steering using the MR2 PS rack. Looks like 2.8-ish turns of the 2nd hand Momo wheel purchased off Ebay.au a while back. I will measure up the angles of the wheel at full lock, something the drift crowd increase for greater tail out action.

 

 

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More recently, after a chat with Ricky Cooper (races a nice L series NA 240z in Auckland), I was keen to have a look at some fibreglass parts for Gaijin for the two usual reasons;

 

- lose some easy pounds

- save money at the panel beater

 

but also picked up the great feature of (in the case of the front gaurds) moving the arch 75mm further forward, which will allow much greater castor angles.

This will give me more camber thru steering change, and a greater self centering effect with the steering.

V8 supercar will run 8 deg+ roughly (did 8 years ago when I turned the spanners for Team Kiwi).

 

The current castor arms may not be long enough for this, but this is an easy cut/remake/TIG up operation.

 

Current rough install position a little way out.

Also picked up a bonnet, which is a light (for glass) unit, covers the inspection panel, has mounts included.

 

Headlight buckets are moulded into the gaurd, metal originals are on Trademe. Overseas shipping not a worry

 

Also check my other listings for more S30 bits

 

 

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PM me for manufacturer of these fibreglass parts inc. bonnet and other body parts.

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Thanks for the support people!

 

Anyways, after so much toying around, its time the car started going hammer and tongs with the hammer and dollys. Picked up thanks to John.

 

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Right,

 

the car sits at the next venue, on the outskirts of Auckland where the panel beatin' rates are much less than the usual joints, not to mention their outstanding skills with sheet metal, raging enthusiasim etc etc.

 

Remembered why I waited for ages to get the car in (mostly my fault), once I walked back in with the car, top crew from first and second impressions. Enjoyed checking out the other classics? and reviewing their butt welding, no added rod/metal. = little to no body filler used.

 

Lets see what they can manage with this old girl

 

 

 

 

 

The fuel rail didnt fit the standard er34 squirters in, so holes machined out, and new collars made to suit the new bosch 6 hole 600cc injectors

er34 squirters sold on, good time for a quick + (crap) pic.

 

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A few oldies also hanging about.

Looks like lots of $ spent on these.

 

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Front gaurds dont  have any internal support nearest the door. There is still the existing panel closer to the front wheel.

Once together & bolted on we can see if its too flimsy.

 

IMG_2130.jpg

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.

 

 

There aint no panel beatin' starting until the cars ride height is set front and rear.

 

As a requriement for the street, min. 100mm clearance is required.

 

This was my starter, front and rear lowest parts hanging off the car.

 

Rear oval superflow type muffler looks ok. Sure takes up some height....

 

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Take the rear  struts out, RR tire sitting on the roughly cut gaurd.

LR doing same to stock inner gaurd.

 

 

 

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Clearance about right.

 

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Heaps of suspension  geometry going on.

 

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Note the wee chop into the chassis to ensure max lowering efforts, and no chassis hitting suspension parts.

 

 

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Take into account sag and we have penty of suspension travel available.

better remember the dimensions next time....

 

speaking of a travel limiting device,

 

 

Rear struts, B4.s revalved with 300lb spring

 

IMG_2163.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For the front, oilpan the lowest (ergh, this wont last long , better thing about a gaurd/sheild?).

 

Wound the front up, using the full strut section moving out of the strut housing, keeping the overall travel the same.

 

I finished with 110mm ground clearance to the under side of the oil pans lowest point.

Sus arms are horizontal roughly eyeing.

 

 

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To sort the castor situ with wheel lagging in the gaurd space, dug these japanese castor arms/tension rod from Import monster a while back, when it was affordable with rates.

Nice quality stuff, plenty of beef.

 

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They offer a little more total length than the modified stocker.

 

 

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It still isnt enough. Will get the stock modd'd ones lengthened again.

 

Wheel further forward, but lets keep going.

 

It would probably be prudent to get a hold of a castor/camber gauge,  would make life easier.

 

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Hello,

 

a change of face?

 

frog face

 

 

IMG_2147.jpg

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Hey, the rack end was the HICAS rear steering thing the car had.

Best ditched I reckon.

 

Took the whole thing out, weighed maybe 10+kgs, and put a straight bar that accepted the same rear steering arms. Hey presto, toe adjustments.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Its got a face finally

 

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Its all stock I promise. Cut and paste exercise required, as gaurd is 75mm north, Gnose outta place. Red line is average effort to show where the cuts are.

 

Cut bumper out and move forward to keep the same distance to the over-fenders as a stock zg front.

Cut the lower section of the gnose to form to new gaurd

Cut the newf.glass headlight cones out, blend with gnose headlight thingies.                                    Butcher!

Make a re-inforcement to the chopped gaurd to mount to gnose around the headlight areas.

 

Make it all look factory fresh and un-molested?

Hope the hammer/dolliers are more skilled than this jpg editer.....

 

 

 

IMG_2162.jpg

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