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Convert standard distributor to electronic


Scoota G

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Yes, I have them in a few of my cars. Just changing over another one. There is sometimes an issue with the tacho, but that can be fixed with a capacitor in the line to the tacho. Nice part is that there is no external parts - it is all inside the distributor. All you have to do is remove the points, mount the magnet to the old points fitting, slide the pickup over the shaft below the rotor button, adjust the gap, and run the wires to the coil. You will also need to check the timing afterwards, but that's it. No more out of adjustment points, no condensor. You still retain the vacuum advance.

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aegean : I have been trying to track down the capacitor rating for the inline capacitor tacho problem. Though i have a 260z on the back of the tacho it looks like the 240z.  You wouldnt happen to know  the rating by any chance? Last thing to try before I take the tacho to a gauge restorer to change the polarity or whatever they need to do.

 

Thanks

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I think this is what you mean. To fix the tach bounce insert a 50,000 ohm resistor in the line going to the tachometer. I put mine right at the coil. Try to get a 1 watt rated resistor. If the tach won't go the full range then lower resistance to 35000 ohms.

 

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  • 11 months later...

Hi,

I am after some advice from all you people who have done the electronic distributor upgrade on a 240Z before. By all accounts it is quite simple and I have done a fair bit of reading into it including downloading info from the excellent Atlantic Z Car site.

 

I have a 280zx distributor (E12- 80 module) and 280ZX coil I bought from RBX 30 (thanks Tim)to upgrade my 73 240Z.

 

I am hoping some of the more experienced of you can read the steps I have outlined below and correct me if I have it wrong and also answer my questions.

 

1.  There is a mention of a 280ZX distributor mounting bracket in the Atlantic Z Car info. Do I need one of these or should the 280Zx distributor slot straight in?

I haven't yet taken the 240Z distributor off to physically compare the distributor bases, but from memory the 280ZX distributor drive looks longer.

 

2.  The way I understand it I need to connect the black wire from the negative side of the coil to the C terminal on the ignition module on the 280ZX distributor.

 

3.  Do I have to connect the existing black/white wire to the positive side of the coil and run another wire from the positive side of the coil to the B terminal on the ignition module on the 280ZX distributor?

 

4.  Currently on my original 240Z coil there is a blue wire coming off the positive terminal on the coil to a small cylindrical shaped item (capacitor?)  mounted on the inner guard at the coil bracket. Do I need this with the new distributor/coil?

 

5.  I then need to disconnect the black/white and green/white wires from the ballast resistor and join them together.

 

6.  There is a terminal on the 280ZX distributor - just above the vacuum advance unit, do I need to connect any thing to this?

 

7.  From info I have read,  to make the tacho work I need to put a 7500 - 10,000 ohm resistor on the wire to the tacho at the coil.  Is this the black/white wire I have connected to the positive side of the coil at step two?

 

I hope all of this makes some sense.

 

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

 

Regards

Peter

 

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Thanks,

I read this link earlier, the trouble is it conflicts with the info from the Atlantic Z Car site as it has the tacho coming off the negative side of the coil unlike the Atlantic Z Car info which has the tacho coming off the positive side of the coil.

 

Regards

Peter

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

Finally fitted the 280ZX distributor & coil to my 240Z today.

 

Wow what an incredible improvement and quite easy.

 

I had a lot of questions ref this and intend to post a "how to for others", which I will do within the next few days.

 

Regards

Peter

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silverz : hows your tacho ? My tacho refuses to work and I'm considering doing what nzedr did with his.

 

Just wondering what you did. I used the datsunzgarage wiring but my loom is a hack job anyway.

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Hi,

Now that I have fitted the new distributor.  I am extremely happy with the results, I never thought the improvement would be so dramatic. Went from poor starting, prolonged warm up required, flat spots, misfiring over 3500 RPM, to easy starting, improved responsiveness, easy accurate timing, revving out cleanly to 6000 RPM

(haven't gone any further than that, is there any need?) and dramatic performance increase. My old distributor was clearly shagged. The timing seemed to change every time I looked at it. In the end I couldn't even find the the timing marks on the pulley with the timing light. New distributor and straight away, the timing marks were close and best of all consistently in the same place every time I checked it.

 

Anyway this is easy as per the Atlantic Z website etc, although I had my own questions and was a bit concerned. I am very conservative when it comes to changing anything.

 

Anyway is this helps others, this is what I did.

 

1. Purchased 280ZX distributor (E12- 80 module) and coil from Tim (RB30Z) to upgrade my 73 240Z.

 

2.  I read up on the swap on-line and was concerned as some sites mention a 280ZX distributor mounting bracket that was required. In my case the the 280ZX distributor slotted straight in. No need for any mounting bracket.

 

3.  I took the black wire from the negative side of the coil that was connected to the old distributor, changed the connection to a spade type and connected it to the C terminal on the ignition module on the 280ZX distributor.

 

4.  I took away the old coil, ballast resistor and little blue capacitor thing? that was mounted on the inner guard next to the coil.

 

5. I mounted the new 280ZX coil using the old 240Z coil bracket (had to bend the bracket a bit as the 280 ZX coil is quite a lot larger). I connected the existing black/white wire from the wiring harness to the positive side of the coil.

 

6. I then made another wire and ran it from the positive side of the coil to the C terminal on the ignition module on the 280ZX distributor.

 

7.  I then connected the black/white and green/white wires from the ballast resistor together using a small nut and bolt through the centre of the connectors on them and taped this up with insulation tape.

 

8.  There is a terminal on the 280ZX distributor - just above the vacuum advance unit, I haven't connected any thing to this. It seems it is not needed for a 240Z.

 

9. I put the vacuum hose onto the vacuum advance unit (had to make a slightly longer hose)

 

8. I reconnected all of the leads to the new distributor cap, crossed my fingers and turned the key. At first - nothing except one backfire that convinced me I was  getting spark. Rechecked position of leads from useful picture on Atlantic Z Car site and found I was one position out on all spark plug leads, corrected this and car fired and ran as soon as I turned the key.

 

9. Checked the timing, surprisingly it was close to the right position. Advanced timing onto marks as per original 240z owners manual (had to back it off later anyway due to pre ignition)

 

10. Leaned the carbs out a little as now running too rich and went for a drive. Difference was totally amazing. Performance increase is remarkable.

 

11.  Tach is working fine at this stage. I won't change anything else unless issues arise.

 

I hope this helps

Regards

Peter

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I just looked up where Queens Rd is , it could possibly have been me, though I don't go over that way all that much as I live in Kirwan and work at Lavarack. Sometimes I go over that way for a specialist appointment in Fulham Rd or my son's rugby at Hugh St etc. Was it a silver 240Z? (there is a silver 280ZX I see around a fair bit) mine has NT plates (24OUNCE) at the moment but I will be getting it registered in QLD within the next month - hopefully,  goes in for a roadworthy tomorrow.

 

Regards

Peter

 

 

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