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replacing auto box with manual

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Hi I just brourt a 260Z two seater but it has a auto. I was hoping to get some info on how to go about changer it to a manual ie: tail shaft gear box mount peddle asembly etc.

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very easy to do.


You'll need a gearbox (can use 280zx five speed),

Manual brake pedal and and clutch pedal (also one of the pins at the top which retain the pedal, along with the plastic bushes and return spring),


clutch and pressure plate,

Clutch fork (if not already in the bellhousing of gearbox)

spigot bush for the end of the crank,

clutch master cylinder (Must be 260Z, and you need the little pin that attaches the pushrod to the clutch pedal),

Clutch slave cylinder (if it didn't come with the gearbox)

flexible clutch hose,

and either the hard clutch piping, or a hard rear brake line off a zed (can be reshaped to fit, as i did with mine).



STEP 1 - Remove tailshaft, then remove auto (DUH!)


STEP 2 - remove ringgear from back of motor, carefully install spigot bush, after priming with oil, bolt flywheel on - OBSERVE TORQUE SPECS. Probably wise to have the flywheel machined flat before installing (about $50?)


STEP 3 - Install clutch and pressure plate, making sure clutch plate is properly aligned.


STEP 4 - Swaps! Remove speedo drive from the auto, fit to manual box (speedo drives are matched to the diff). Remove the crossmember from under the auto, and fit it to your gearbox.


Remove the auto brake pedal (drift pin at top of pedal) YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE WHOLE PEDAL BOX, although others might tell you differently. I didn't do it in my car, you shouldn't need to in yours. If you do, I have a good pedal box.


Now fit the manual brake pedal, reverse of removal of the auto pedal.


STEP 5 - Install gearbox. With the auto crossmember, it should line up fine. 2 notes here about 280zx boxes, if you use one: 1, The bellhousing bolts need to be longer (Ie: get manual 280zx bellhousing bolts). 2, The transmission tunnel hole needs to be trimmed about 5-10 mm at the front edge. Install tailshaft. Should fit easily.


STEP 6: Remove the cover plate over the clutch master cylinder hole (on passengers side of brake booster). Bolt clutch master cylinder in place. Install the clutch pedal, using the other retaining pin you got, along with spring and bushes. Fit the pin b/w clutch master pushrod, and clutch pedal.

Install clutch slave cylinder if it wasn't already fitted to gearbox (Note, bleed nipple must be at the top, otherwise it'll never bleed up). Install hard clutch line (or shape and fit your rear brake line). Fit flexible hose between clutch pipe and slave cylinder. Fill with fluid, crack bleed nipple on slave cylinder and wait till fluid starts to run out (hopefully it should run after a couple of drips). Bleed with the help of someone else.


STEP 7: Check everything is tight, check the clutch freeplay, then start car in neutral, push clutch pedal in and carefully attempt to engage gear.



And that is your manual conversion from start to finish. About a days work if you are mechanically minded and have all the bits when you start. Any questions, feel free to ask - The first thing i did to my 76 2 seater was the manual conversion.


If you live in Melbourne, I can probably even give you a bit of a hand when you get round to doing it.

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Thank you very much for your info. I did not expect to get so much help and advice. you said that you have a good pedal box, is it complete with clutch and brake pedals? If so how much would you like for it.


Thanks for the offer to help with the conversion but im up in canberra.

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My pedal box does not have clutch and brake pedals, as I removed them for use in my conversion. However, if you find a manual wreck or parts car, the pedals alone are very simple to remove. Removing the pedal box is both much more difficult, and a waste of time, I should think.


If you stick your head up under your dash, you should be able to see another mounting point for the clutch pedal, to the left of the steering column. Looking at the brake pedal mounting point will show you where to check for the holes for the pivot pin on the clutch bay. There will be a cutout through the pedal box to the firewall for the pushrod to go though. With this all present (it should be), you can simply do as I outlined above, with no need to go through the hassle of changing pedal boxes.


If you are unsure, take a photo of the pedal box and post it up, I'll tell you whether its right or not.


No worries on providing help, I know how difficult it can be to find out exactly without exception what parts you will need, and what needs to be changed. I try to help as much as I can, which in this case I call myself an expert :P :oops:


Gav, perhaps we can sticky this thread?

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I've been told that a 200B box is a direct subsitute (in comparison to a240z box) for an auto change over due to the diff ratio.


Is this correct?

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