Jump to content
Timbee

The Chook Shed Aka RS30-000792

Recommended Posts

Ok so 3 days ago I wasn't even looking for a car and certainly would've thought that someone was crazy to suggest I would soon own a Datsun 260z.

I live on Macleay Island near Brisbane and run a mobile mechanical business with my son as apprentice.

I was in the local car parts/ marine shop and started talking to a gent who was lamenting sending his partners 300zx to another mechanic on one of the other islands because he reckoned he couldn't find my number. Ten weeks since and he still doesn't have the car back.

Anyway got to talking and he says out of the blue they have a rusty 260z in an old shed if we were interested.

 

This is what we found

IMG_20180929_101735466_BURST001.thumb.jpg.3048b4394bdb6bbf1bb2c04d81452f80.jpg

The car had accidentally been filled with diesel and although the diesel was drained the car for whatever reason was never run again.

From the rego sticker this was sometime in 2003

IMG_20181001_155011101_HDR.thumb.jpg.f204e63e15c1cf148051082e4b1c1bf9.jpg

A deal was quickly struck and my son Callum and I became the owner of a 260z

Went around and picked it up todayIMG_20181001_115608147_HDR.thumb.jpg.4b3f98c7231b047edfa18c30851cc933.jpgIMG_20181001_143236829.thumb.jpg.063c5e5f4f45f936e776d71fdf6530d1.jpg

this is after a bit of a clean. It looks great in the photos but there is a bit of rust to be dealt  with, still for $1k very happy.IMG_20181001_153332618_HDR.thumb.jpg.9849a795564d604ff8f171a159953363.jpg

the owner at one point had over a hundred chickens on site and at some point someone removed the driver's door and the chickens and rats moved in. The floors were a sea of rat poo and chewed up egg shells

IMG_20181001_165702393.thumb.jpg.8c4906cd62a20bcc9d32353dd03379d0.jpg

surprisingly underneath the floors were good and rust free.

This is what greeted us when we opened the glove boxIMG_20181001_163528456.thumb.jpg.1e888045963792f980fb47292e1fbd58.jpg

The biggest rats nest I've ever seen. I can feel It extends out the top of the glove box and continues under the dash. We cleaned the glove box a bit but under the dash will have to wait although I don't hold much hope for the wiring being unmolested.IMG_20181001_163843188.thumb.jpg.be0c9a8977b8c9d30baebceccb9c102e.jpg

Yum!

The owner couldn't find the keys so I had to remove the steering lock to get the car on the trailer but look what turned up when we were scooping rat shit out of the footwells later Woo hoo!IMG_20181001_173959784.thumb.jpg.fb0e80496e49a59f937bb3bf8cc36083.jpg

So that's day one of many more to come. It's going to be slow going as we have a very busy small business and we are shortly starting to build a rammed earth house but looking forward to the challenge.

Cheers Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Congrats Tim, great score for $1k, cool photos and story. Good luck with the resto, good to see a you will be saving her, at least you know whatever $ you spend on the car it will not be lost, as getting a car like that so cheap you will do well. There is loads of great info on this forum that you will need down the track

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well done Tim and welcome.  Looks like a great start but I will confess I was eating when I saw your glovebox and now I'm simply not hungry.:-[

 

By the way, what's that you're carrying?  It looks like a cross between an orang-utan and a mogwai. ??? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi MaygZ that's not me in the photo but the previous owners partner and Smokey the Pomeranian. Funnily I referred to him as a mogwai too!

Hi 24 Dat yes I'm going to take my time and do it right. As a mechanic I will concentrate on getting her running first while I get my head around the requirements for the body work. We are currently living onsite in a caravan in prep for starting a house build so I don't even have a shed atm. Checked engine number today and it matches number on the plate so that is good. The owner also gave us a complete l28 engine with all the accessories ( from 280C maybe as it is a single carb) 5 speed box (the car is an auto) and a spare set of the small rear windows

Cheers Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What a great find! Kudos.

 

My parents have a block on the Island, never in my wildest dreams would I have though a decent Z would be hiding dormant there. Goes to show how random car hunting and barn finds can be! You could easily get a 1000% return as is.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi dat240z I've been on Macleay 5 years this time and built a house here about 28 years ago but long since sold. I must have seen the back of this car from a distance a hundred times and just not really looked. Don't know about return on money spent. As I said in my original intro when I joined the forum the rust initially looked less than I thought it was but would probably end up being more than I thought. It's more than I thought I thought it would be.

Still seeing the heroic efforts on this site have both inspired and depressed me. Looks like I'm going to learn a lot more about panel work that's for sure.IMG_20181006_085529149_HDR.thumb.jpg.42a6f1042984ba414fcadff69be44b3e.jpg

Removing stuff the long task begins

IMG_20181006_085520882.thumb.jpg.cdf5875bd5f573c99d74a4a3aef19837.jpg

 

Patterns in the dust

IMG_20181006_085955298.thumb.jpg.442a6e7070a7d0c6628c1b279e29da02.jpg

 

More eggs, rat poo and seat foam

IMG_20181006_092227629.thumb.jpg.6e9e23cba1c96f8551d1ebd20c41a2b3.jpg

 

Trying to start out organised.

Both carbs have been removed (sorry no pics)and given a rough clean up . I have some .8 nitrile fabric on its way for the power valves. 

Carbs were a pain as EVERYTHING was either glued in  with 13 year old petrol gravy and or corroded. 

A good soak in carby clean, Judicious use of a little heat in the right places and a little creativity and lots of swearing got it all apart.

Both floats levels were way high which I suspect is because of degraded floats. For now it will do. I'm going to try for a start tomorrow. Considering the rat chewed mess the wiring is, I will just be jumping power direct to the starter and coil and temporarily fit a oil pressure test guage.

Cheers Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So what are the plans Tim after the engine is running, remove all the mechanicals and electricals, fix the body and go from there?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi 260DET that sounds like a plan although maybe get her going enough for one sneaky lap around the block for inspiration would be nice. IMG_20181007_090112240.thumb.jpg.b3cac40f26412a408969263f4a61008d.jpg

This is the main wiring harness where it passed through the fire wall, chewed to pieces by rats so no way I could power up the electrics normally. Disconnected harness power supply wire off the back of the starter and just left the positive starter cable on. Hooked jumper cables to positive battery clamp and negative to the block. Oil and filter changed earlier. Also tablespoon of oil down each cylinder and new plugs.IMG_20181007_103213344.thumb.jpg.cf64161516706edbb8cd6bc7757d04d7.jpg

Removed oil pressure sender and cranked by shorting starter solenoid till I had oil pumping out. Put sender back in. Ran a power wire from the jumper battery to the + on the coil pulled the coil lead off the dizzy and cranked. No spark. Fitted new points and condenser. No spark. Traced problem to film of corrosion on the tiny bolt that passed through the insulator block in the dizzy. Cleaned up and fat blue spark on crank. Yippee. Statically timed at 8 degreesIMG_20181007_114625861.thumb.jpg.754e4281eb313e1cf9a7b26db874992b.jpg

There's a timing mark there somewhere.IMG_20181007_114753789.thumb.jpg.84c8150f75a9fa62d121d223136c92a4.jpg

There tis.

Cranked and the engine fired immediately but backfired through the carbs. Seems someone accidentally swapped two plug leads. I'm blaming the apprentice. Swapped leads back and cranked again. Apologies for the narration of my youngest.

Pretty stoked and very surprised how quickly the car settled into a stable idle. The black pipe and filter is a temporary fuel supply hanging from the bonnet.IMG_20181007_093127527.thumb.jpg.4bcb4a302345675a63e19ef45e1f3ddc.jpg

Question.The fuel return pipe had an orifice in it, is this standard? Does anyone know? 

Cool shot of the carby piston valves responding.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Timbee said:

Question.The fuel return pipe had an orifice in it, is this standard? Does anyone know? 

Yep, standard.

Cheers Jeff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Jeff wasn't sure as I could see file marks and it looked a bit homemade.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Timbee said:

Question.The fuel return pipe had an orifice in it, is this standard? Does anyone know?

With such an old fuel system, be careful it doesn't get clogged as it will over pressurise your carbs, its a good one to check if suddenly the engine starts playing up, and be careful those flat top Hitachi's can be a problem. 

Really great to see you and Callum getting the car running again,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Timbee said:

Question.The fuel return pipe had an orifice in it, is this standard? Does anyone know? 

Yes, that's normal and the orifice is smaller I guess to help keep fuel pressure up? I believe you'll only see fuel come back that way if the float chamber is full and fuel backs up.

It's probably worth about $10k more now that it runs and isn't covered in chicken shit. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. Older vehicles with mechanical fuel pumps would sometimes not have a return to tank but rely on fuel pressure to hold the actuating arm away from the cam and as fuel was used pressure dropped and the arm came back into contact. Looks like this system was set up to keep a little fuel circulation and just guessing but allow fuel to vent back to tank in the case of vapour lock rather than overpressure and unseat the carby floats flooding the engine. This car had an electric pump fitted a lot of which run at about 7psi which is way high I'm thinking for those carbs. Probably ran very rich at idle and would bog down if not constantly blipped. Will strip and have a look at the mech pump but may run an electric with a pressure regulator for now. I've now read as much info as I can regarding the tuna can carbs any resources like old service details would be much appreciated.

Cheers Tim

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

260z's were known for vapour lock with the flat top carbs on them. Hence the return line would have been important (240z's also had it however). I don't see any insulation on the fuel rail, but they did have an "asbestos based" heat shielding on them. I believe 74 260z's would have had an electric pump from factory (although it may have come later in 75). The mechanical pump was definitely phased out later on. So the electric pump may be stock? Or a later replacement?

Service manuals are floating around on the web, but there was a few versions of the flat tops used and so may not be 100% accurate depending on what you're looking at.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Early '74 260Zs like mine #115 still have the mechanical pump a la 240Z, but the electric substitution can't have been far behind as the additional wiring is already there  (but taped up) for an electrical pump down by the fuel tank. So if your electric pump is mounted there it's quite possibly original or an OEM replacement of some kind.

Your 2-pipe fuel rail complete with restriction 'orifice' all looks stock to me.

Flat top specs varied somewhat from market to market, like Gav I've seen several different variants. As said, in hot climes they gained a reputation for vapour lock. If anything they tend to run a little too lean, a product of the '70s oil crisis era. While they can be tuned to run quite well parts for tweaking them further are very limited if available at all. Hence many people ditch them in favour of something else.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi gilltech and Gav . Definitely mech pump as it's still on the engine and the after market pump is bolted straight to the guard. Regards carbs they are the least of my worries at the moment. I was actually surprised how well the car ran given the float valves were so glued up I had to get a small set of expanding circlip pliers and get them down into the back of the float  valves and grip and twist to get them out. I also had to heat the carb body gently where the float pivot pins go in because they simply would not budge. Tracking down some .5 fabric reinforced nitrile for the power valves as the current ones are mummified. Currently at the depressing stage where the more I look the more I find

IMG_20181008_173835838.thumb.jpg.c281fd28b36b182925da9c5004f07c9a.jpg

The rats chewed up the foam behind the dash so it is totally toastIMG_20181008_173839736.thumb.jpg.8d69dca6801e627422d14b0a9cbd9241.jpgi can attest to the fact that rat piss is very corrosive. Nearly an hour to get the glove box out for decontamination but didnt break or strip any screwsIMG_20181007_131457522_HDR.thumb.jpg.5e00a75de383b5b484265c2874a27b42.jpg

Sometimes a little  heat via a soldering iron works wonders especially mixed with some inbox or lanolin spray.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So suggestions regarding dash? I see locally there is a reasonable (cracked ) 260 dash for $300 neg is that okay or am I better going for a reproduction as of course the old dash will require refurbishment anyway and I have no idea what that will cost. Cheers Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Probably get the dash and reskin it. I haven't seen repro dashes. Reskin is 500+. The two places known for zed dash restoration are dash original in Adelaide and dash doctor in Melbourne. Not sure if 2 seat and 2+2 dashes are the same?

Edited by Brabham

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pretty sure dashes are the same for 260z 2seater & 2+2, current price for reskins Dashboard Doctor in Melbourne is $650 plus freight. Might even be worth a call to see if they can repair/rebuild your current dash, might be cheaper then buying another second hand dash

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

2-seat & 2+2 dashes are the same, minor changes with the gauges as the years went by. There's nothing left to re-skin so you'll need to find a replacement dash; but they come up for sale from time-to-time as cars get parted out. Then depending on what condition it's in & your budget then decide to get it re-skinned or not. If the dash wiring loom is toast then you can get another loom with the dash. Earlier cars generally had more basic wiring looms than later ones.

Quote

Currently at the depressing stage where the more I look the more I find

Hang in there, the demo stage is always daunting.

Edited by gilltech

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, OdinZ said:

Might even be worth a call to see if they can repair/rebuild your current dash, might be cheaper then buying another second hand dash

This. I would talk to Dashboard Doctor in Coburg.

https://www.dashboarddoctor.com.au/

They may be able to repair the missing foam. At least it's not around the bezels of the gauges as such and a relatively flat area. Although I'd probably want to decontaminate any rat crap myself :).

I'd be all suited up in a hazmat suit working on the interior of this car haha.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi odinz thanks for the link .Har bloody Har alright gav. The apprentice usually pulls his shirt up over his mouth as a dust mask even if he peeks inside to hand me a beer and at this stage it's me in the cabin doing all the shit work. He usually only gets into it once we hit the engine bay. Rang dash doctor and it's a no go re replacing that much foam. Best bet may be to nab the second hand one as it's savable and I'm guessing around $300 ish is market value. Gilltech not too worried about wiring but I ain't no motor trimmer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well keep the dash frame as reproduction skins may become available. I have a RHD (240z sorry) dash that I am going to send to the US for a friend over there to use as a template for re-making dashboards. They only have LHD completed versions so far.

https://www.instagram.com/vintagedashes/?hl=en

19 hours ago, Timbee said:

Currently at the depressing stage where the more I look the more I find

Well stop looking :).

Which reminds me of a joke.

https://www.snopes.com/fact-check/bono-of-contention/

Quote

Bono, whilst playing a gig in Glasgow, got the whole crowd to be silent and then began slowly clapping his hands. He got the crowd to clap along for a while, the stadium quiet except for the rhythmic clapping…

After a short period Bono spoke, saying that everytime he clapped his hands a child in Africa died …

Suddenly, from the front row of the venue a voice broke out in thick Scottish brogue, ending the silence as it echoed across the crowd, the voice cried out to Bono “Well stop ****ing doing it then!!”

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×