NZeder Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 Cool - it is excellent that Nissan put the extra hole for the dip stick at the rear too - just remove the metal plug and swap these over - simple (well not so simple with the alternator, intake still on the engine but I got there in the end too. Like you I am now playing the waiting game on the intake. I dropped my headers off to get some mods done - more on this when I get the back. Keep up the good work. Cheers Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Zedman240® Posted June 5, 2008 Author Moderators Share Posted June 5, 2008 Yet again another little update. Got the manifold back from another engineering place that can weld aluminum, that first one I took it to was going to take their time so they lost the job. This other place, dropped it off on Thursday, picked it up Friday lunch time. Small issue though; what happens to metal when it's heated unevenly? Yep, it warps! Manifold now has slight banana shape (2mm gap each side) Discovered this when I machined the Weber plates flat...I'm hoping when it's bolted to the head, it will flatten out. Tested it and it does. Tonight I drilled and tapped threads in the manifold and performed a quick mock up on what it should look like when its mounted for the last time. Still thinking if I should stick with the cast exhaust manifold for the moment or scrape up funds for some custom headers. It's all about saving costs! Still need new ECU loom, exhaust system (2 1/4"), throttle linkage....should I keep going on?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 It looks so pretty I will have to chase up my guy to see if they have completed my adaptors. I am picking up my headers today after a little mod to clear the chassis rail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
620Z Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 Dinitri I would get your manifold face machined flat. Pretty simple if you know a machinest. Wouldn't cost much but the last thing you need is a leak after putting it all together. You will be better off in the long run. Rob Creighton or Chris Wood could easily do this for you I reckon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modular9 Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 Nzeder says pretty... that is like saying Angelina Jolie is only ok. This build up is hot. Seriously hot. We also dont mind if you post about the tuning section as well such as afm stuff, Ignition mods you had to do etc. Basically everything. All good information for people who are doing this conversion and also us less ambitious modders. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat0_240_chevZ Posted June 6, 2008 Share Posted June 6, 2008 Yet again another little update. Got the manifold back from another engineering place that can weld aluminum, that first one I took it to was going to take their time so they lost the job. This other place, dropped it off on Thursday, picked it up Friday lunch time. Small issue though; what happens to metal when it's heated unevenly? Yep, it warps! Manifold now has slight banana shape (2mm gap each side) Discovered this when I machined the Weber plates flat...I'm hoping when it's bolted to the head, it will flatten out. Tested it and it does. not really so dimitri, its the cooling of the weld that shrink, and in your case all weld along a plane shrinking will cause the bannana, so yes a zzzz8 has mentioned get them faced by even a head shop, 30-45$ should be, then you should be right, sometimes doesnt matter how much weld distortion you try to minimise it will always be there, this is golden especially when dealing with welding fabrication everyday @ work..... just make sure you get it faced or it will crak in due time, not IF but when is the case!!! just thought we had better make it clear, for your own sakes anyways!!! cheers nat0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Zedman240® Posted June 15, 2008 Author Moderators Share Posted June 15, 2008 Another hurdle jumped tonight.. Engine is pretty much installed! Just have to make/modify my gearbox mount. If you can pick it, the motor is slightly off its axis in the bay. Thanks to my coathanger and piece of timber rear gearbox mount. Spoke to a gentleman at Berryman Engines who thinks the intake manifold is fine. He recommended me to place it in a oven at 200C then bolt it on the head. Even as it is now he told me it shouldn't crack at all. Its flexible to a point. If I do shave it, towards the center of the manifold there is a water port that might not seal at all if 4mm of material is removed. I'd rather leave it as it is. We shall see in time! All I'm waiting for now is for my ebay auctions to end so I can buy my wiring loom for the Wolf puter and start some wiring! Also while the engine was out, I fitted a re-drilled crossmember to help solve that bump steer issue. By the end of the week, I should have some more to report on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zr240 Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 looks great! Your catching up to me Ash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 wow that engine sits low. We have the same mounts by the look (Castle Main Rod Shop) however I did mod mine to take the different isolator (I am using an Energy Suspension isolator with a safety interlock/captive design so my setup mounts the engine about 5 mm higher) but I have a RB25 Block with a RB26 I see if I have a pic that shows this difference. Anyway looking good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
620Z Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 Looks great Damitri. Do you have a rough completion time? I presume this means you won't be making Sandown this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modular9 Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 Looks sensational as it is, going to look even better with the intake and so forth. Three thumbs up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevo_gj Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 Hey guys, quick question. I was looking at possibly dropping an RB25DET into the Z I am going to buy, but I'd be getting the whole thing done by a mechanic. What kind of prices do you think I'd be looking at for that job, including buying/reconditioning the engine. I've seen that RB25s are around 2-4 K for one off ebay in varying conditions, but will it also cost an arm and a leg in labor? Would 8K pay for the engine swap all up? I know its a very hand wavy question and many things can change, so I'd be happy with a broad estimate from anyone who has experience in such things. Also, your conversions are looking sweet boys, i've subscribed and can't wait to see/hear the result, post many youtubes of it! Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zr240 Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 I rekon a min of 10k but prob a fair bit more. There is a fair bit of work and you also need eng. cert if you are going full reg. Ash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted June 20, 2008 Administrators Share Posted June 20, 2008 Not to mention if you pick an unreliable mechanic, it could take months or even years for it to be finished. You really do save a lot of heartache buying one already done and certified. If you can do it yourself more power to you. Remember its not the cost of the motor, you'll have brakes to upgrade / suspension. Emissions tests (depending on the year of Z) and wiring / troubleshooting etc.. Not to deter you, but there really are some headaches involved. If I wasn't going overseas I would have very closely considered buying Steve's (RB30ZED)'s old red car. RB30 block 25 head Naturally Aspired. Now I believe it's owned by ZedLS1 on here. My advice is to try and buy one that's already been done. Either that or consider driving one with an L-series for a while and see if you like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevo_gj Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 Solid advice, thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Zedman240® Posted July 14, 2008 Author Moderators Share Posted July 14, 2008 Just another step completed tonight . Wired the starter, alternator and finished modifying the intake manifold water by-pass to clear the throttle bodies. Cranking the engine after adding the oil to see if I got oil pressure but nothing was coming up. Not sure if the sender works; as I removed it from an old Nissan 4WD at a wrecker. Hoped to see the needle move on the gauge but zero! Checked the gauge by grounding it and got full travel. Ordered the Wolf V500, should see it tomorrow and then the fun begins! If anyone out there has a ZR200, would love a pic of the engine underneath of the sump and crossmember to compare to mine...Thats all for the moment, more to come!! Cant wait till I put on youtube the first startup! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Neubauer Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 Not far off now! Its looking very schmick, I can't wait to hear those throttlebodies on youtube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 Looking good - I took some photo's today too I picked up the headers the other day after a number of trail fits and changes but here the results - extra pipe added to change the angle of the original pipes. These new pipes/extensions are 30mm long on the bottom and 35mm long on the top thus lowing the header and kicking it around away from the chassis rail. I also picked up my RB26 manifold to DCOE adaptors too so in the weekend I might look at mounting up my DCOE TB like you have done ZedMan240 Also if you look at page 4 you will see a pic I posted a while back with the 200zr sump on with the cross member visible. I don't have one of the setup in the car and the car is in the panel shop so can't just pop out to the garage and take a pic for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 Intake pics now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 Here is tonight's efforts - I now need to visit the car and measure from the head mounting face to the strut tower to check that distance but I think they will fit - however I might need to shorten the trumpets up a little so I can put a cold airbox around them. Now I just need to have the throttle shafts shortened so I can mount all 3 TB on the manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Neubauer Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 OMG! Throttlebody porn!!! Thats looking well wicked! Are they the efi hardware items? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Zedman240® Posted July 17, 2008 Author Moderators Share Posted July 17, 2008 Hey Nzeder, I don't think you will have a space issue, your manifold is alot thinner than mine. I have plenty of clearance with my setup but I have shorter trumpets. So the extra length in the trumpets is cancelled by the short length inlet manifold. Oh, good news with my oil pressure problem! Thanks to Steve Newing, a quick "blow" with a air compressor through the rocker cover vents with the oil filter removed while it was cranking, oil came gushing out of the oil filter opnening! And I mean alot of oil! Re-fiitted the filter, 10 seconds of turning over, welcome oil pressure gauge needle movement!! Now the wiring begins........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 Great news on the oil pressure let the wiring fun begin - I am yet to get that far but can't wait to get stuck in. Re the space you are correct - I visited the workshop and took some measurements and looks like there will be approx 65mm of space between the end of the trumpets and the strut tower so just enough for a good air box (recommended is 45mm from the trumpet face) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Zedman240® Posted July 18, 2008 Author Moderators Share Posted July 18, 2008 I've been busy again in the shed tonight; decided to bolt up the throttle bodies on the manifold. To get to the bottom bolts is a prick now! Not impossible, but just a little harder. Nzeder, you should have about the same room as me in front of the trumpets with your setup. I took a pic so you can compare when you are at that stage. Just trying to think of the throttle linkage setup now. Need to complete the cooling system plumbing, fuel, and wiring then exhaust and something to protect the sump underneath. It hangs uncomfortably low to the ground. Lower than the cross member! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted July 18, 2008 Share Posted July 18, 2008 Looks good - my measurements place the trumpet a little closer than your but still lots of room. Can't wait until I have my car home so I can work on it in the evenings currently only one night a week and the one day in the weekend - when I can get into the panel shop to work on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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