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OdinZ

Ned's Z - 76 2+2

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1976 260z 2+2 (11162) Manual

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Not a lot to add here, but I figure I start something off here. This will most likely be a slow process, as most things that I am doing are new to me, even some of the simplest tasks for most. I have been around cars & motorsport for a bit, but other than stereo systems, & headlights, I have never really needed to touch anything on a car before. (What have I gotten myself into)

 

To date, I have installed a new speedo cable (removed and reinstalled tacho & speedo), got the choke cable attached on the rear Carbs. And bought new fuse panel cover, choke knob, trip reset knob. Small bits and pieces.

 

This weekend (I finally have a free weekend, shhhh, dont tell the wife) I plan remove the heater valve/c0ck as it is leaking coolant into the foot well and see if I can fix that myself, as these seem to be really hard to find brand new, or cost over $200. I have seen Sirpent rebuilt his, so I will give that a shot. And based on the recommendations of a few people, might as well get my Heater core re-cored at the same time. Probably go to Dandy Radiators.

 

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Any advice on removing this valve? I am hoping I dont have to pull the dash out (I know do not need to pull the dash out to remove the heater core). 

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So as planned, i was going to attempt to pull the heater valve & core out by myself, luckily for me a certain tall, knowledgeable, well known, and handsome member of the forum had offered his expertise for an afternoon to help me with this. And I tell you what, thank the God of Thunder he did! I most likely would have been bashing my head trying to get these out, then spent a whole day, or two, trying to do this. 

Removing the core & valve without removing the day was attempted, and not so successful, it seemed more time consuming than what it was worth.

The fan blower unit came out, then the dash, condenser unit, valve & heater core.

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The heater valve seems to have decent enough sealing, but the diaphragm seals will most likely need replacing, as there is evidence of some leaking from this valve.

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The heater core looks quite corroded, so I will look for a new one, or decent enough second hand one, and get that re-cored.

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Seeing as the dash is out, I will look at getting this down to the dash doctor to get reskinned, and get LED globes for the dash gauges.

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Also, clean up the inside, replace the grommets, and maybe even put some sound deadening down in the front. And sort out the carpet, I have a new set of dark green carpet (came with the car), anyone want to swap for black carpets? HA

Edited by OdinZ

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...Seeing as the dash is out, I will look at getting this down to the dash doctor to get reskinned, and get LED globes for the dash gauges...

 

Be aware that if you fit LED dash lighting - that the dimmer control will not work. I hope to convert to LEDs one day too, and I found this solution;

http://www.protizmo.com/Product-Info/AILD-1/

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It dims the LEDs using pulse width modulation. If you fit PWM - all the bulbs to be dimmed need to be LED, because incandescent bulbs don't like being 'pulsed'.

 

To choose the correct model you need to know the maximum resistance of the rheostat. I would like to know what your rheostat measures if you get a chance while the dash is out.

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Be aware that if you fit LED dash lighting - that the dimmer control will not work. I hope to convert to LEDs one day too, and I found this solution;

http://www.protizmo.com/Product-Info/AILD-1/

2013-04-C1-0050.jpg

It dims the LEDs using pulse width modulation. If you fit PWM - all the bulbs to be dimmed need to be LED, because incandescent bulbs don't like being 'pulsed'.

 

To choose the correct model you need to know the maximum resistance of the rheostat. I would like to know what your rheostat measures if you get a chance while the dash is out.

Interesting. I am glad I posted that, because I would have just installed the LEDs, and then probably cracked it because I couldnt dim them. This actually reminds me when the old man first put in LED downlights globes at his house, and we couldnt dim them at the time, but with technology changes, we got new lights & transformers, and were able to dim them again. 

Yeah on advice, I figure I would change all of the globes. I assume they are all on the same circuit.

 

I will try too test it out this week, but will let you know either way. 

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The Z dash lights - even with LED BA9 globes - will not be bright enough to require dimming.

 

When I converted a customers Z to LED globes, we bypasses dimmer switch completely and the owner never complained - if anything he said they could be brighter!

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The Z dash lights - even with LED BA9 globes - will not be bright enough to require dimming.

 

When I converted a customers Z to LED globes, we bypasses dimmer switch completely and the owner never complained - if anything he said they could be brighter!

 

There are several different types of BA9 LED globes available - what kind did you use?

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...

Yeah on advice, I figure I would change all of the globes. I assume they are all on the same circuit.

...

 

The instrument illumination globes are on the same circuit and have the dimmer control.

 

The blinker, high beam, brake and charge (260Z) indicators are connected to their relevant circuits and not to the dimmer.

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There are several different types of BA9 LED globes available - what kind did you use?

Which ones do you suggest. I noticed different options for the whites here:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba9s-led-bulb-4-led-ba9s-retrofit-car-classic-car-bulbs/6/

 

have you done this on your z?

 

 

The instrument illumination globes are on the same circuit and have the dimmer control.

 

The blinker, high beam, brake and charge (260Z) indicators are connected to their relevant circuits and not to the dimmer.

Good to know, also another lot of globes I should also change while the dash is out. Thanks

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Which ones do you suggest. I noticed different options for the whites here:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba9s-led-bulb-4-led-ba9s-retrofit-car-classic-car-bulbs/6/

 

have you done this on your z?

...

 

No, but I have a 260Z clock and a 260Z fuel/volt gauge which I have experimented with using different LEDs.

 

I will drag them out and try to take some photos.

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