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HomeBuiltByJeff

Home Built Z 'full Video Build'

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1 hour ago, gav240z said:

No wuckers, the balancing I've seen involved having the pistons, conrods, wrist pins all apart and measuring each item individually that's all. I saw you had kept your piston's and rods connected, hence why I wasn't so sure. But if you've been instructed otherwise by an expert then that trump my opinion of such things! It's probably less of an issue in a street motor than track engine too!

It is definitely better to balance the piston and rod separately, you are spot on there. The issue is, as Stewart Wilkins suggested, if you are going to re-use the pistons and rods, it is better not to try to press out the gudgeon pins, as you are quite likely to brake something. It is not the best way to balance them, but it is better than not doing it at all, at least I hope so.

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Nice video Jeff, I like that you keep it real and don't edit out the issues you have. I found it informative especially the cam tower shimming as I may need to do this myself in the future and had only read about it previously. It is always nice to see a video of this sort of thing and now I can learn from the problems you experienced and hopefully not have to learn from too many of my own mistakes. Thanks.

Cheers Jeff

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Just now, jeff43 said:

Nice video Jeff, I like that you keep it real and don't edit out the issues you have. I found it informative especially the cam tower shimming as I may need to do this myself in the future and had only read about it previously. It is always nice to see a video of this sort of thing and now I can learn from the problems you experienced and hopefully not have to learn from too many of my own mistakes. Thanks.

Cheers Jeff

Happy to be the guinea pig on that. I really have no idea what I am doing myself, but the book is pretty thorough. I just take my time and it comes together slowly ;)

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Did you check the wipe pattern of the cam lobe on the rocker arm ? If it runs off either end, you'll chew the cam and / or rocker to pieces.

rocker1.jpg

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6 minutes ago, 1600dave said:

Did you check the wipe pattern of the cam lobe on the rocker arm ? If it runs off either end, you'll chew the cam and / or rocker to pieces.

rocker1.jpg

It is down near that end of the rocker arm but it is still about a mm from the end of the pad. I hope that will work :-\

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The 4 cylinder L20B has more links between the "bright" ones to make up for the fact that the engine block itself is 19mm taller.

Datsun did mess up with some of the factory workshop manuals - as an example, the 180B manual states 44 links in text but says 42 links (the correct figure) in the diagram directly above the text. Set yours to the same as your old chain and you can;t really go wrong. If you use the wrong number of links, it will become obvious pretty quick.

As an aside, I haven't seen a chain with bright links for years, but then maybe that's because I use non-genuine cheapies.......

Originally (at least in 4 cyl engines) they  used a gasket between tensioner and block, I believe the gasket was deleted sometime in the L-series engine's life. Doesn't really seem to matter whether you use one or not (although I personally do),  I guess if it does leak ever so slightly it will only run back down into the sump

Edited by 1600dave

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1 hour ago, 1600dave said:

The 4 cylinder L20B has more links between the "bright" ones to make up for the fact that the engine block itself is 19mm taller.

Datsun did mess up with some of the factory workshop manuals - as an example, the 180B manual states 44 links in text but says 42 links (the correct figure) in the diagram directly above the text. Set yours to the same as your old chain and you can;t really go wrong. If you use the wrong number of links, it will become obvious pretty quick.

As an aside, I haven't seen a chain with bright links for years, but then maybe that's because I use non-genuine cheapies.......

Originally (at least in 4 cyl engines) they  used a gasket between tensioner and block, I believe the gasket was deleted sometime in the L-series engine's life. Doesn't really seem to matter whether you use one or not (although I personally do),  I guess if it does leak ever so slightly it will only run back down into the sump

I was thinking that the leaking tensioner would not really be an issue, but the book said gasket, so it was easy enough to just make one up. I do have to have a look at timing though. Does anyone know what the 72 degree cam base timing should be set at? I will probably give Clive a ring during the week to find out. I have it set at 0 for now, but it is easy enough to change if i need to. I will also consider an adjustable cam gear if I need it. We will see how it comes together.

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