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Do I Have Vapour Lock?


ScottyB

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Hi guys.

 

In your experience, do I have vapour lock?

 

I've got the stock Twin SU L24 in my 240, but the car is running a Fujitsubo Legalis R exhaust c/with headers. There is no heat shield. Drives fine in all conditions to date bar one...

 

To start this car, it takes no less than 3 long cranks before it considers firing up. Once started, it's fine - but it's frustrating and would be battery draining without being on constant charge.

 

I believe that a heat shield will help - but I'm new to carbs and keen for advice on potential fixes.

 

Cheers.

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Yes, mechanical pump still in the bay. Should it really be that hard to start though? Gets driven every second weekend, but this is a next day issue too. Also - while warm, starts first crank.

 

I bought it as is unfortunately... no heat shield and a customised spring return for the throttles that would foul on a heat shield.

 

So, heat shield would be number 1 and if pain persists electronic fuel pump be the next best suggestion?

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If it's a cold start issue only it won't be heat soak.

 

Check the choke operation, the jet nozzles should be all the way down. To test pull the choke on in the car, then in the engine bay reach under the carbs and see if you can pull the jet nozzle on each carb down any further. If you can they are sticking, you aren't getting full choke and cold starts will be hard. Try lubricating them when they are fully down, it worked for me many years ago.

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Check the choke operation, the jet nozzles should be all the way down. To test pull the choke on in the car, then in the engine bay reach under the carbs and see if you can pull the jet nozzle on each carb down any further. If you can they are sticking, you aren't getting full choke and cold starts will be hard. Try lubricating them when they are fully down, it worked for me many years ago.

I agree it sounds more like a cold start, choke issue. If it starts fine when warm.

 

Gareth what did you use to lubricate them? WD40?

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I lightly smeared high temp wheel bearing grease onto them with a finger and then worked them up and down a few times. I wanted to use something that would stay on when things heated up and I thought spray grease or lubricant spray would cook or boil off due to the radiant heat in that area.

 

I thought I read somewhere it's a sign of the needle jet being worn and needing replacement? The fairly expensive though aren't they.

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If not using the crinkled waffle material as heat shield, but metal, get the metal one ceramic coated.

Not running it every two weeks, is enough to cause a bit of fuel evaporation, so that fuelpump will have to work to get enough fuel back into float bowls at high enough level, for vacuum to pull fuel mist up and through.

 

Considered a rear mounted electric fuel pump???

If so, fit a filter between the pump and tank, no need for second filter up front.

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First thoughts about your hard starting when cold or sitting for a while, Your mechanical fuel pump diaphragm is leaking.
The fuel that sits in the pump and lines to the carbs drains out slowly, you have to reprime the whole thing before it'll start, hence the long cranking after sitting for a while.

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First thoughts about your hard starting when cold or sitting for a while, Your mechanical fuel pump diaphragm is leaking.

The fuel that sits in the pump and lines to the carbs drains out slowly, you have to reprime the whole thing before it'll start, hence the long cranking after sitting for a while.

I have to crank mine for a while also (although I think it's also the choke on the SUs), so I was looking into a rebuild kit for the original pump. Found this thread.

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50679-rebuilding-the-nikki-fuel-pump/

 

Problem is my fuel pump says Atsugi not "Nikki" so I'm not sure if the components are the same. My guess is that they are.

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