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Dash Flocking


Today I picked up the dash, It was done quite some time ago thou I just didn't get the chance too grab it. All I can say it came out mint !!!! The gents at H-tek done a fab job and was well priced i reckon. Now, I'm stuck in a delimma with the metal frame of the dash...  I have 1 black powder coated, 1 re zinced, and the stock one that was used during the flocking...  dont ask how i managed to get more dashs then what I need..  : / they where experiments but I'm leaning towards the black powder coated version, found it less " rattly " plus it looks better. Offset of this is I prob's damage the newly flocked dash by removing the inner shell... :s 


All i know it is actually hard to get a decent shot of this dash under different light, pictures don't do it justice, I have decided to get the rest of the plastic trims / garnish panels flocked as well.


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Cowl area . #2 


Upper cowl panel welded back in. Didn't have too much dramas surprisingly, clamped it down and work from the middle out. The steering area was just a tad out but a quick belt made it work. Now to figure out how to coat the welds from the inside...



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Radiator Support #2


New rad came in and it was just too nice to trim the sides of it.. so I chopped up some 75 shs. (kinda over kill ) to use as a notches,reason being they have a nice radius inner corner plus its thick to put some serious heat into them.

After notching the rails, I used a jack to hold the rad in place, here I just eye balled at what height it had to sit at making sure the filler neck was bellow the rad / bonnet seal bump.

The radiator lower bracket itself is some 3 mm alu L shape (65 EA), its a tad bit short after making 40 mm holes for the radiator insulating rubber to go though.

Being a temp bracket things like allowances for thermal fans will come into play but for now it will do till I find some bigger L.



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Dry fit .


Plonk in my spare rb block and temp mounted the intake and exhaust manifolds using a borrowed set of cx racing mounts. The rb box is a lot fatter as others have mentioned and will require to shave the original gearbox mounts to make clearance.

Forcing the box in like what we did will just pinch it and force the box to point towards the drivers side which wont help drive line angles, but seeing it all makes so much more easier to iron out the issues. 


Other things like strut bars (which clash :/ ), plumbing, fuel regulator mountings, catch cans, heater and AC penetrations. are easily figured out.


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Brake and fuel lines.


Using the old lines as templates helped with majority of the work, however using a different brake and clutch masters changed all that. The lines used for the brakes is seamless 3/16" stainless which the ends where double flared - apparently this is a ADR requirement so I was told, with M10 x 1mm nuts, 6mm P clips where used in the engine bay to hold them in place and OEM mounts ( anyone know where to get new rubbers ) along the tunnel. 


Fuel lines are 3/8" aluminium, same deal double flare to suit 37' AN fittings. I originally started with bending up 1/2" alu tube thou ran into issues with them not being able to fit in the existing holders in the tunnel and I didn't have a proper bender for 1/2 pipe :s, for the time being this will do, can always upgrade later or just use a dead end system using both lines.


At the rear the fuel lines where set shorter instead of passing over the diff, on the std diff mount they pass fine however on the TTT brace and with a diff cover makes it sit closer to the frame rail which clashed so they finished just under one of the compartment box's.



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