Jump to content

Project 260Z - Stages


mspecr

Recommended Posts

So after reading " AK builds " epic post on restoring his fuel tank, was only fitting that I followed suit.

Condition of mine well was solid sludge, and crusty remains. The gunk that came out when draining it originally was not healthy..

Following the instructions that came with the POR15 Fuel tank repair kit, I only did a small test with just the fuel sender with great results, mind you some manual scrubbing with a small brush went a long way. All up prob's total 3 hrs playing around with this thing.

Fuel tank will definitely take a lot longer to break down the amount of sludge. 

 

th_20160916_155313_zpsf8t7leby.jpg

 

th_20160916_155211_zpsc7s7ivgk.jpg

 

th_20160916_161212_zpsc6fdk0kw.jpg

 

th_20160916_154942_zpswt5wmtxy.jpg

 

th_20160916_163457_zpstp0ohhmz.jpg It looked really bad from here, was seized good.

 

th_20160916_163001_zps1jwkrvkb.jpg

 

th_20160916_163518_zpsbuoigvdm.jpg soaked in marine clean for a good 20 min.

 

th_20160916_163417_zpsyrthubce.jpg

 

th_20160916_171148_zpsp9mknyer.jpg use a tooth brush along the contacts and resistive track, be weary of the fine wire that's from the sender lid to the track.

 

th_20160916_175716_zpsdtbuu0qy.jpg  this cover plate can be removed by untwisting the top bent lip where it pass's through, gaining access to the resistive track

 

th_20160916_172307_zpsxvu3ou5a.jpg clear the junk behind the resistive track and its mounting pad.

 

th_20160916_175732_zpsq93rzop7.jpg

 

th_20160916_175727_zps19nnbqed.jpg

 

th_20160916_172954_zpscsvnshbw.jpg check the range, 10.5 to 93 ohms, seams to work great. 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Got around to assembling all four hubs, parts where taking up to space so had to start making room. All new bearings, seals, brake cylinders / pistons. Didn't have a tap for the m10x1.25 so just fine blade through a spare bolt hanging around to help remove excess powder coat. Struts assembled with Stagg shocks, shock boots, and wrapped in king spring - std height.

 

Front Caliper Pistons : Protex #: DB2014

Rear Cylinders : Dorman #: W96878 + W96879

 

th_20160921_125951_zpsxisstlcd.jpg th_20160921_125816_zpso215fmhh.jpg th_20160921_131211_zpsvchllyzm.jpg

 

th_20160921_125345_zps8zx6eb53.jpg th_20160921_131819_zpsqcg9dtn5.jpg th_20160921_154348_zpscjhf8xzj.jpg

 

th_20160921_154341_zpswwcxntm3.jpg th_20160921_132706_zpsqjsenit1.jpg th_20160921_133534_zpsusdwrpz2.jpg

 

th_20160923_104102_zpsqoyy3svl.jpg th_20160923_104107_zpssyh9ysoc.jpg th_20160906_134009_zpswqyb3fhj.jpg

 

th_20160906_150848_zpsmi2xopfa.jpg th_20160906_150908_zpsrip6zuwu.jpg th_20160923_104026_zpsccfzctdq.jpg

 

th_20160923_104033_zpsuls3gzre.jpg

 

Front

 

 th_20160923_121803_zpsnxnvrszs.jpg th_20160921_162741_zps0ywimmfs.jpg th_20160922_124409_zpswtyfbbdp.jpg

 

th_20160922_124807_zpsyobpiw3y.jpg th_20160922_124645_zpsfnruylw0.jpg th_20160922_125719_zpsdffegjah.jpg

 

th_20160922_125738_zps0poqm7lr.jpg th_20160922_124640_zpsb2ahgn6e.jpg th_20160922_131931_zpsoe40alic.jpg

 

th_20160922_132101_zpspizfmzzo.jpg th_20160922_132309_zpsw2dl3kjh.jpg th_20160922_132545_zpsvprosuq4.jpg

 

th_20160922_132719_zpsm2gjl1pd.jpg th_20160922_133231_zpspc6sokaq.jpg th_20160922_133318_zpsqruec7uy.jpg

 

th_20160922_133344_zps2nsylxh6.jpg th_20160922_134030_zpsoeg2ofpe.jpg th_20160922_143145_zpsxhfqplyh.jpg

 

th_20160922_144149_zpsgxby0lsc.jpg th_20160922_143502_zpsxvig0b0v.jpg th_20160922_143415_zpsokmackyk.jpg

 

th_20160922_143409_zpsgwsg6tjv.jpg th_20160922_145623_zpsrt9bvxa8.jpg th_20160822_132403_zps5yt9rguw.jpg

 

th_20160822_132455_zpsgbm7thxl.jpg th_20160822_131145_zps3r0yabtv.jpg old badly pitted pistons. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Fuel tank update. 

Its been roughly 3 weeks since I filled the tanked with a water + marine clean mix and the results turned out great. 

The 1st load which pretty much broke down a good majority of it to my surprise, a second batch is now in to soak for a another 2-3 weeks. I was contemplating running a small pump to help circulate the mixture around, but this seams to work just fine giving the long time frame the mixture has to work with.

 

th_20161010_161116_zps3udkqeeg.jpg th_20161015_104442_zpsltjqd8hu.jpg

 

Door Hinges,

New pins and bushes, these are pretty straight forward just make note of there orientation, smack the old ones out, clean up the surfaces until your a human pin cushion, install the new pin and bushes, repeat times x4.

 

th_20161020_112805_zpspwk7hsme.jpg th_20161020_112157_zpsdcysm8mh.jpg th_20161020_145301_zpswdinrc95.jpg

 

th_20161020_115117_zps1bc6cecq.jpg th_20161020_140857_zpsrffulisk.jpg th_20161020_145315_zpswhx0cj4i.jpg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Vintage Air,

As A/C was priority for this build I settled with a vintage air Compac Gen II unit., PeterAllen was kind enough to take the time out and give me a good guide and explain his experiences with his install.

For the moment its only the fabrication of mounting points, reason being when the shell gets blasted and primed it should be a bolt in affair, this also helps in determining what to seal up / penetrations I require for the firewall.

 

There was a fair few versions of how this was mounted, I ended up with a 90' bracket that is welded under where the wiper motor would of be and simple straight alu bar for the hangers. Here it cleared the steel frame of the dash, the glove box and gained access to the original defogger vents.

It's worth while mentioning most installs I found on line the blower fan is on the right hand side, - mainly US builds, - In my opinion this unit will fit more easily as you got direct access to the top vents ,I simply didn't like the idea of the fan near my feet.. a noisy fan can be a passenger side issue..... 

 

The area behind the unit is more then enough to hide the water valve, hoses, wiring ect. Tight... but doable, the original vent that enters the cowl area was also chopped out and sealed. 

 

There is still the center vents to connect up, which was used the original air box, so some sort of manifold will have to be done there, the side vents can be either directly connected to the vintage unit or again some common manifold like the original setup uses.

 

link.

http://www.vintageair.com/instructions2013/906800-vuz-a.pdf

 

th_20161021_125102_zpscaphoepz.jpg th_20161021_125110_zpslcrqbcm8.jpg th_20161021_125118_zpslid1uyyg.jpg

 

th_20161027_140336_zpspemqtfaj.jpg th_20161027_142133_zps1fndueke.jpg th_20161027_103744_zpsxjtt4j7b.jpg

 

th_20161027_103301_zpsmr8kzme9.jpg th_20161026_112120_zpsfvqqqrlm.jpg th_20161026_155557_zpsy8boosgw.jpg

 

th_20161026_155702_zpsss6ec8lo.jpg th_20161026_155547_zpsigasltfl.jpg th_20161027_102313_zpsqwrmzxin.jpg

 

th_20161026_154636_zpsfau63s0i.jpg th_20161026_161630_zpspbhbvdxc.jpg th_20161026_155831_zpskxwjq4vh.jpg

 

AC bulkhead fittings should be fine as there is ample room for them to poke through, only thing I need is to find a RB z to see where the firewall to block / head clearance is for the heater connections. 

Edited by mspecr
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Got in touch with another member on here which i cant thank enough for taking the time out and handling the barrage of question I dished out. I originally went to gain info on engine placement and find clear areas in the firewall, this is for the engine loom heater and A/C lines, however after seeing it I ended up leaving with more questions then answers....  now I have things to add such as power steering, roll cages, Porsche brakes ,,, thou this will be for stage II of the build.

 

Definitely helps in seeing what your trying to build that's in front of you.

 

th_20161030_130534_zpsaibtnah4.jpg th_20161030_130529_zpsrl6oji6x.jpg th_20161030_130541_zpsbp4bhsnb.jpg

 

th_20161030_130537_zpsirlzqwbn.jpg th_20161030_130545_zpsesop8b3l.jpg th_20161030_130616_zpsms27rk4v.jpg

 

 

Back onto the firewall I managed to get a R33 gts-t Booster + master installed, inc the r33 clutch master.

Now I could of left the original 260z clutch one in place, this would of saved me the hassle of modding the pedal box to include a extra backing plate for the clutch, however i must of misread this post as I had somehow obtained the idea that there was a clearance issue with the Clutch M hitting the booster..... and that's why I went with he r33 version. I even offset the booster away of the clutch master 2 - 3 mm...  

 

Note : 260z C/M has a vertical mount, the R33 is 45' off set.. and a patrol gu is 90' horizontal. 

 

Overall this wasn't required at the end clutch M/C mods wasn't really required, but its done now.

I used this http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/9734-240z-manual-only-upgrade-to-skylinesilvia-booster-and-1516th-master-cylinder/

 

th_e58dd33e-6b4b-47c6-ae2e-9b9b29ca988c_ th_20161031_114045_zpstopczhih.jpg th_20161031_125017_zpsc8wmhnp6.jpg

 

th_20161031_131208_zpsjktcgira.jpg th_20161031_143538_zpsmnd3dagk.jpg th_20161031_123335_zpsxvyjsaya.jpg

 

th_20161031_144252_zpsfjqkn4my.jpg th_20161031_144130_zpsus3z9egy.jpg

 

 

Got around to pulling the last batch of items on the car apart, which either will be sent away for powder coating or getting zinc dipped, things like the window regs, window wiper links, door locking mechs, handbrake assembly, pedals and pedal box, the dash metal frame ect.

One thing that surprised the me was the state of the wiper motor.. after all these years hiding in that black bag it came out flawless, not sure if it works thou.. 

 

th_20161029_175606_zpsthbegsf6.jpg th_20161029_174725_zpsifbbespu.jpg th_20161029_174353_zpsmbseutrt.jpg

 

th_20161123_134510_zpsxb8drka7.jpg th_20161123_134512_zpsu26bbnul.jpg th_20161123_125218_zps8tobkime.jpg

 

th_20161123_125734_zpsbo8wgx0n.jpg th_20161122_131709_zpsczmk3qce.jpg th_20161122_132045_zpss6neujfh.jpg

 

th_20161122_131715_zpsf6fxqtwa.jpg th_20161031_155100_zpsluok4cik.jpg th_20161031_162646_zpsuqubgyel.jpg

 

th_20161031_162637_zpslbf27gvb.jpg th_20161031_162505_zpsopsy4ui0.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Started tearing apart the 1/4 windows, now I not sure if this is standard ... but the tabs that secure the window to the frame have been welded somewhat roughly, surely these didn't come like this from factory ?... either way they still aligned with the body so I'm not overly too concerned.

 

Had a quick go at polishing the stainless trim which came out a treat, there are still some small minor imperfections but i guess they can be just buffed out with more time, just your standard buffing wheel and some autosol metal polish.

 

Now I have intentions of getting some tint done, would it be worth trying to clean / polish the glass now, or just give it to the glass people to clean up and let them do it ?.

 

 

th_20161124_122458_zpscu5jywjr.jpg th_20161124_122503_zpsqeolhiaw.jpg th_20161124_122507_zpsibsjosd7.jpg

 

th_20161124_141417_zpse1dxxbq1.jpg th_20161124_131159_zps74tr2dbh.jpg th_20161124_142710_zpsbcmbvmwe.jpg

 

th_20161124_142645_zpsfhswezie.jpg

 

Received back the items that got sent off for powder coating, again cant really complain about the quality.

 

th_20161130_140502_zpspjz8ztqa.jpg th_20161130_140509_zpslryhxjgu.jpg th_20161130_135425_zpsrr77vc0j.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fenders

 

Got around to attacking the fenders this week using the TABCO replacement panels. There is a fair bit of work involved with doing this, which I clearly underestimated.

Things like the position of nutserts that are in in the kicker panels (tabco units) are not in the same position as the OEM, this threw the recessed fender bolt way off. I only realized this after i rebuild the inner support to the original position.

The bottom folded lips have walked off during manufacturing, that it forced the panel to sit a good 5mm proud off the kicker panel, so had to slice the lower lip to bring it back in so it hugs the kicker panel. 

And lastly it was around 5mm too short leading up the wheel arch, which again had to be sliced and filled. I think this was probs due to me folding the lip at the door end, thou i just followed the existing fold, so I'm not too sure :s...

 

 

th_20161206_142355_zpsssv6ivbh.jpg th_20161206_140209_zpsqzybmycv.jpg th_20161206_140207_zpsvhyot59i.jpg

 

th_20161207_095551_zpsdslll6an.jpg th_20161206_151352_zpsxryqwoav.jpg th_20161206_165729_zpscv6o7wio.jpg

 

th_20161207_102751_zpsicby7uk1.jpg th_20161207_103213_zps5tzxssej.jpg th_20161207_113641_zps3ullrvan.jpg

 

th_20161207_104033_zps6xytgthi.jpg th_20161207_104050_zpsdxfq0cxt.jpg th_20161207_115531_zps6vvepvnl.jpg

 

th_20161209_101058_zpsdeakrey2.jpg th_20161209_094844_zpsifiegrut.jpg th_20161209_101048_zpszaqee1tg.jpg

 

th_20161213_143429_zpsznjl73co.jpg th_20161213_143448_zpsws4bq60j.jpg th_20161213_140646_zps0zyuud1r.jpg

 

Still lots of cleaning up to do but you get the idea.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

I love some of the work going on in here, thanks for making me realise how little progress I've made of late.

 

RE: Aftermarket replacement parts I've heard they can be a fair way off. For that section on my car I just fabricated it, it's a basic curve really. But if you don't have a roller it's probably easier to buy them.

 

The welds on the 1/4 windows are probably because the tabs have a habit of breaking off, on #150 I've got that problem on the driver side glass.

 

You can also polish stainless with steel wool and WD40 works well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers Gav, 

Reading about the top end rebuilds you do and others on this forum is whats been guiding me through all of this, a lot of late night reading. 

 

Sadly i don't have access to a roller or bender, pretty much a hammer, grinder and a vice lol. Anything somewhat flat is easy for me, hit some sort of bend / curve I'm out, so the aftermarket panels is my go too. 

 

For the 1/4 that makes sense, I might just get the frames painted inside only to hide them weld blobs, outside can stay polished. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fender (continued...)

 

Passenger side was pretty much the same deal as what I did with the drivers, thou this time the recessed fender bolt support / stiffener was aligned 1st, then connected to the fender, still a work in progress atm. 

 

Also noted this fender didn't have a original cut out for the front indicator, so this means the entire passenger side of this car is not original at all... might start calling it two face soon.

 

th_20161214_122227_zps3e2jzumm.jpg th_20161214_122239_zpsa2adklod.jpg th_20161214_133548_zpsb1udpr21.jpg

th_20161214_152037_zpszcc9vt1r.jpg th_20161215_134402_zpsbv9vuayn.jpg th_20161215_140243_zpsdrrfg8sg.jpg th_20161215_143614_zpsly0mahtg.jpg

 

 

Sooooo.. Just when I was about to attack this with with a grinder, I some how managed to slice my wrist up against the bottom edge, It got me right between the glove and a long sleeve shirt out of all places.. bleeding stopped but if def a good clean cut, was half tempted to drop a depth micrometer in it to see how far it went .. the missus say its a stitches job however I beg to differ.. :s 

 

To top it off, upon writing this i realized i still had the bolt holding the fender in place... which is now trapped behind the replacement panel and there is no hole to gain access too... lol sigh...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Engine.

 

First up hope everyone had a great xmas ! and with the new year under 48 hours away hope it brings great tidings too all. 

Carrying on i left the fender for the time being. Having engine parts laying around the house and running out of room the finance minister made it quite clear she is not impressed about the whole ideal.

 

Started off with washing down the block, knocked out the old core plugs and installed new ones. Quick lick of paint, installed slugs on rods, gap rings, threw in a set of bearings, check clearances, cleaned out the oil pump, installed new oil seals and knocked in a oil restrictor.

 

Head wise just cleaned it out, gasket match port for the exhaust and coolant on the intake,re shim buckets and installed some extended cam cap bolts.

 

Water pump and new timing belt with tensioner where also installed. Dialing in the cams will be done at a later stage.

 

th_20161012_085652_zpssnhvpgz1.jpg th_20161012_111550_zpsbtsc7agk.jpg th_20161013_121335_zpskkpxoabj.jpg th_20161013_133356_zpsarkmetad.jpg th_20161013_130652_zpsnag2dara.jpg

 

th_20161014_104947_zpshynzljfn.jpg th_20161013_155411_zpsbcwl7eyi.jpg th_20161013_155307_zps8w0t4tft.jpg th_20161012_104534_zpsfnxqqwgb.jpg th_20161012_133746_zpsx5a14xwd.jpg

 

th_20161012_143132_zpsfmjhsnsq.jpg th_20161012_144758_zpseox1jdmz.jpg th_20161219_174412_zpsee8su8yb.jpg th_20161219_180449_zpsiuvopacr.jpg th_20161219_181415_zpscyf8z9cz.jpg

 

th_20161221_182214_zpsetss01gn.jpg th_20161224_091400_zpsd5vnflge.jpg th_20161224_093131_zpslikxidou.jpg th_20161224_091808_zpswxbivw95.jpg th_20161224_123629_zpsbtjuqxol.jpg

 

th_20161224_114413_zps6rkakd5i.jpg th_20161228_143412_zpsnsounfs2.jpg th_20161228_102055_zpspgfdebj9.jpg th_20161229_135043_zpsbuiidbn3.jpg th_20161229_135213_zpsn7wrtymg.jpg

 

th_20161229_115457_zpsgqbt9t3b.jpg th_20161229_134025_zpsd4a2jgps.jpg th_20161229_134034_zpsjftf9jof.jpg th_20161229_134050_zpsrhyf3aoq.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Yay back into it :D

 

So she been booked in for blasting, where I thought I was ready ended up 2 weeks of long nights in the garage, something always popped up and being somewhat ocd it had to be done.

Having a chat to the blaster they suggested to remove the majority of the under body deadener (something i dreaded doing in the first place) mainly as they worked on a hourly basis and is a lot cheaper in the long run.

So some of the works done where:

 

Welding un used holes in the firewall / engine bay area.

Re adjusting the A pillar again to match the corner where the windshield sits.

Removed rear antenna hole.

Finish welding the rear passenger 3/4 panel for good.

Remove under body deadener

Install and mod the Bad Dog Frame rails.

Stich weld gearbox and diff support brackets.

General grind down of forget welds.

 

I was going to install the rails after a blasting, however since I was removing the deadner anyways I ended up doing it. Worth mentioning you have to mod the ends of the rails that connect to the rear frame to clear the sway bar. 260 yes. not sure of this was a case for a 240.

 

 

th_20170131_161445_zpsf5uobodm.jpg th_20170131_173926_zpsaroto1pc.jpg

 

th_20170206_102423_zpse6loqx6o.jpg th_20170207_111228_zpshedau7nx.jpg th_20170206_102426_zpscgjzr9tx.jpg th_20170207_111233_zpsqcceoeln.jpg

 

th_20170207_135205_zpsmiz2gjtx.jpg th_20170207_132654_zpsbzdcqu6w.jpg th_20170213_115706_zpsgl9x0nq4.jpg th_20170208_150942_zpsce1fadgl.jpg

 

th_20170213_115731_zpsgu3qwv3q.jpg th_20170214_184016_zpsqmdqq2ef.jpg th_20170214_184023_zpswbt1ylx3.jpg th_20170215_093911_zpsfbtj21nm.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Dash.

 

Being alone in a empty garage i turned my attention to my dash,  like most unrestored dashes these days mine had cracks just the same.

First thing was too open up the cracks so they are level with the surrounding surface, I used a die grinder with a pine cone, overkill for this but worked perfectly at carving up the old foam.

Next was to place some tape on the inside of the cracks that penetrated all the way through, this stops the expanding foam from filling the areas where there not needed. Apply expanding foam, using a a paddle pop stick i would smear the foam onto the walls to help it adhere, sit and wait for a hour or so till its cured. 

Once cured, quick lick with 120 on a orbital sander to remove excess foam, normal body filler was used to fill the small holes in the foam, this was repeated until I was happy with the overall shape and con tore of the dash. Block sanded / feather coat and more sanding till i was up to around 600 grit, a final lick of high build primer and a last block to get it smooth.

Here on i drove it out to a mob out in Kelmscott, H-Tek Ultimate Coating, here we are going to get the dash flocked in black. Turns out he would also repair a cracked dash prior to flocking. ........ ... .. ... sigh. 

Last pics is another client's dash that was just flocked in charcoal.

 

th_20170220_162005_zpsvfb2yllm.jpg th_20170220_162007_zpsgerdjeew.jpg th_20170220_162013_zpspzzm6ajx.jpg th_20170220_162226_zpsoy4yb4dh.jpg

 

th_20170220_163925_zpsofe42prn.jpg th_20170220_163920_zpsjwuhsx12.jpg th_20170221_093253_zpsafqkm6lc.jpg th_20170221_093305_zpsqyaujucu.jpg

 

th_20170221_093259_zpssonzuk56.jpg th_20170221_184114_zpsgse2th8m.jpg th_20170221_184351_zpsz2qrixe8.jpg th_20170221_184358_zps2hqrm4nu.jpg

 

th_20170221_184405_zpsrz9izrmd.jpg th_20170223_125158_zpsbnj51mwh.jpg th_20170223_153024_zps5fvmqxfp.jpg th_20170224_085613_zpsduokdnb4.jpg

 

th_20170224_100442_zps2hrbeayj.jpg th_20170224_100559_zpseogzresn.jpg

 

 

Rear Lights.

 

While I was waiting for the foam to set i started attacking the rear lights, my lens where dull as you would expect for sitting around for so long, so a bit of wet sanding and going through the finer grades followed by a buffing wheel made them good as gold. I even removed the factory casting identification as polish would just get caught in the nooks and crannies of the lettering. 

 

th_20170221_130926_zpspvn213ue.jpg th_20170221_131401_zpsm60rez9q.jpg th_20170221_131358_zpscfabwbo9.jpg th_20170221_134848_zpsccaxokfi.jpg

 

th_20170221_134856_zps3umucnev.jpg th_20170221_135456_zps0u6reqjb.jpg th_20170221_134346_zpsoxiqeiwk.jpg th_20170221_141553_zpssnqcfld2.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1/4 windows ( cont  )

 

The frames where cleaned outed and buffed, however the inside of the frames where not to my liking, so a quick lick of satin black to help hide the unsightly welds from the mounting tabs. The glass itself was cleaned up using wd40, windex and a medium coarse steel wool.

Installing the 1/4 glass was a lot easier using ample amounts of dish washing liquid, the only hardest part i found was trying to get the new seals to match the corners of the seal to the frame itself.

After cleaning the frame down with water to remove all the washing detergent, I used contact adhesive to apply to the frame to the outer seal, masking tape was used to help hold the foam down while it cured, don't forget to install your corner trim / garnish. 

 

th_20170307_154146_zps2szddps4.jpg th_20170307_154154_zpsmfg6fg01.jpg th_20170307_163442_zpscpxme4kb.jpg th_20170307_162411_zpswq1wtjkd.jpg

 

th_20170307_162416_zpsj2fknxkn.jpg th_20170310_123706_zpsogpgi8gt.jpg th_20170310_123700_zpsd2twkbke.jpg th_20170310_123711_zpsskfycttg.jpg

 

th_20170310_123828_zpsyh4hnfb3.jpg th_20170310_130742_zpsgpnh378w.jpg th_20170310_130931_zps4noyyde6.jpg th_20170310_125834_zpswzlkvdct.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pedal box,

 

Started to run out of room, and this was easy one to assemble. 

2 bolts, 2 star washers, 2 plastic bushes, 2 metal sleeves, 2 rubber stops, 1 brake switch , 2 springs and 2 plastic spring locator bushes. 

 

Clean out the threads of excess powder coat.

Grease up the metal sleeves and bushes and install. 

Install tension springs,

Install stops and brake switch.

 

Final adjustment will come later for final pedal heights. 

 

th_20170309_144045_zpsmqp5lo75.jpg th_20170309_144042_zpscqcujvfz.jpg th_20170310_121622_zpsygk0vlkr.jpg th_20170310_121632_zpsq3tydbjd.jpg

 

 th_20170309_144038_zpskalnadje.jpg th_20170310_121618_zps8l3fblkc.jpg

Edited by mspecr
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Blasting 

 

Today I picked up the rest of the bolt on panels, I was surprised with how little damage over all considering how much work I had to do originally, I was expecting more.

The cowl panel had 1 pin hole, bonnet has one section about the size of a 50c piece and pitting around the vents, the lower valiance / indicator mountings was belted hard.

The rear hatch turned out great with only minor surface pitting around the lock and emblem area, other then that very minor dents here and there but overall I was pleased with the outcome.

The shell should be done by next week hopefully, then things will start getting interesting with temp fitting of new fuel / brake lines and engine / gearbox placement. 

 

th_20170315_152703_zpsqvu3ojgn.jpg th_20170315_152657_zpsx0vwiuvb.jpg th_20170315_152954_zpsoq5hav4d.jpg th_20170315_152916_zpsrryfpsks.jpg

 

th_20170315_153100_zpsiti6mb5q.jpg th_20170315_153108_zpswsgt7fgz.jpg th_20170315_152833_zps7mnkufua.jpg th_20170315_152840_zpstcxl8edi.jpg

 

th_20170315_152744_zpszvm8yzet.jpg th_20170315_152723_zpsxqsn5qav.jpg th_20170315_152721_zpsdb2k6mmf.jpg th_20170315_152716_zpsp2auit7o.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Inspection Light

 

A while ago i tore apart the inspection light and got the housing zinc'ed. New wiring, switch and lens were installed for this little beast. Pretty straight forward not much to really explain, only heads up is to pass the cable through the end lid first,then install your spring, bakelite washer then solder the tab..... don't ask why. Negative is soldered onto the J hook and your positive is the solder tab which is your base of the globe holder, here a piece of heatshink is used to tie the cable to the J hook to help support it when pulling it out. 

 

At the other end your extension (speaker cable) the positive has to go to one side of the switch, this is not polarized so either tab will do. The other tab of the switch will be your feed or main supply in which was some red 1.5mm cable i had laying around. Heat shrink the ends for a pro look. Negative of the extension cable has to be soldered to a small clip thats folded over on the main housing. Pass your main feed through the hole in the base of the housing and rubber grommet it. Coil your extension wire into the housing and your set.

 

Parts:

Switch Part No : ST0570 ( Jaycar )

Lens : 26oz (ebay user). http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/302203728479?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Wiring : speaker cable, unknown just what i had laying around.

 

Possible upgrades later:

LED globe.

Waterproof rubber grommet for the switch. 

 

 

th_20161123_125218_zpsfwrcm7wk.jpg th_20161123_125254_zpst5j8hvzz.jpg th_20161123_125732_zpspdsyentb.jpg th_20170322_142855_zpsswxlf8lj.jpg

 

th_20170322_143555_zps0ezsqeuq.jpg th_20170322_143328_zpsrjiovlzc.jpg th_20170322_143807_zpsa1o7mitz.jpg th_20170322_144008_zpswtua9air.jpg

 

th_20170322_143958_zpsze8isefn.jpg th_20170322_144318_zpsjx0odjlx.jpg th_20170322_144505_zpsdakhjwkg.jpg th_20170322_153103_zps9l5q8xw3.jpg

 

th_20170322_153122_zpsnlnxt4sd.jpg th_20170322_153116_zpsvar5dx5l.jpg th_20170322_153244_zpsffjvrbuc.jpg th_20170322_153252_zpskckfkldj.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tail Light plugs.

 

After many hours of searching I was never able to really find a definitive answer in finding replacement bulb holders for the 260z tail lights. However if you have a stab in the dark you might actually hit something. So if you have a twist lock bulb socket that looks like the one below these are it. 

 

Fitment is perfect with a solid locking detent, the only option was a pigtail type which is basically wires on the end. I do wish they where a tad bit longer but they will suffice. Wires are 105' deg rated 20 AWG, or .5 mm2 area and average 160mm long from the back of the plug. The globe itself sits in the same height with only the rear end being about 10mm shorter then original, No real dust seal that i can see thou with a tight fitment this shouldn't really be a issue.

 

 

Website : http://www.autolumination.com/

 

Part No : 1156 - Plastic Ba15s Single Circuit 

Part No : 1157 - Plastic Ba15d Duel Circuit

 

Notes :

Pricing for shipping is expensive from this place...  However the range is huge, plus they have  wedge type twist locks too which can be interesting to use. 

 

Qty to do both tail lights.

x6 : 1156 - Plastic Ba15s Single Circuit 

x2 : 1157 - Plastic Ba15d Duel Circuit

 

th_20170322_164620_zpsmdvyigm8.jpg th_20170322_163902_zpsn8wijmss.jpg th_20170322_163807_zpsuevsts0q.jpg th_20170322_163532_zps2ipuisln.jpg

 

th_20170322_163612_zpsznomg5co.jpg th_20170322_163542_zpswobxwghl.jpg th_20170322_170430_zpscvr1mzwg.jpg th_20170322_171728_zps5cnyucuj.jpg

 

th_20170322_171737_zpsfthj78jr.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Blasting Part 2.

 

Picked her up today from the blasters, feels good to have her back. Over all she came out pretty good, only small pin holes here and there. The only biggest  issue  was that rear drivers side 1/4 panel around the tail lights, that was belted in at some point which i sorta expected considering how much bog that panel had originally. 

 

I started calling around a few painters to get some idea on the timeframe / cost for final panel and paint, The colour I'm going with is from Hyundai ( I know.. I know...)  code S2G - Matte Grey Pearl, you find these on the Veloster Turbo models,  with the polished stainless trim should make it quite a clean look. 

 

 

th_20170329_131046_zpsio4pbbrw.jpg th_20170328_151345_zps1tlnjzzt.jpg th_20170328_151131_zps6ovhmajd.jpg th_20170328_151605_zpsbfjpvj6p.jpg

 

th_20170328_151548_zpsogmtveay.jpg th_20170328_151546_zps6jhdtpl6.jpg th_20170328_151531_zpsevbddehb.jpg th_20170328_151500_zpsdxqtckwz.jpg

 

th_20170328_151338_zpstg7wts53.jpg th_20170328_151152_zpslnqtiavo.jpg th_20170328_151123_zpsaosomp8r.jpg th_20170328_151108_zpszlubayib.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its taken a long time to get it to this state that's for sure,  and still a longer way to go :D

 

Dress code.

 

Getting the shell back I just had to get the doors and panels hanging off her, here we found some issues like the front head light cones where pinching the bonnet, and the drivers side fender tip was over lapping the door a fair bit, I did spend a fair few hours on this trying to get it as best i could, how ever they will require attention, other then that i was nice to see its overall shape. The nose pinching was helped using one of the rams off the rotisserie. 

 

th_20170331_130748_zpsoiefx6kf.jpg th_20170331_130743_zpsja8hny8z.jpg th_20170405_124038_zpssbzfyjqu.jpg th_20170405_124032_zpsqpygpgkq.jpg

 

th_20170405_104117_zpsrxit3eji.jpg th_20170405_104111_zpswltmjlwq.jpg

 

 

Radiator support 

 

After blasting we found some small holes in the lower corners of the radiator support, easy fix however it came to me I needed to start looking at radiators.. Using a old R33 skyline rad i had laying around i used that as template simply as it has the outlets on the same side and there sized for an RB.

The rad is just a fraction to large to fit between the rails normally, massaging the side of the rad make it slip in perfectly, using this rad filled in the entire front which now makes me wonder if I should enlarge the opening.  Doing this helps as cutting out metal is a lot easier then installing new metal back in. 

New rad has been ordered so once that gets here I will finalize where I'm going with this.

 

 

th_20170406_093639_zpsrujihto8.jpg th_20170405_142946_zpsexqur8vm.jpg th_20170406_123506_zpsz3o73az0.jpg th_20170406_104341_zpstzlhdr72.jpg

 

th_20170406_093645_zpsuplo8ikv.jpg th_20170406_093650_zps9ipny1ey.jpg th_20170406_093654_zpsfzomn2ha.jpg

 

Cowl area

 

Welded some thick sheet metal to replicate the stiffener panel that was removed prior fixing the rust under the dash. New seam sealer was used to go over the areas that the blasting took out and POR 15 was brushed on everywhere. I probs went overboard with the coatings, thou I wont ever go back into here ever again after welding the top cowl lid back in.

 

 

th_20170330_124906_zpscjq0l2za.jpg th_20170330_124909_zpshfey8bja.jpg th_20170330_124904_zpsvr1r2jkq.jpg th_20170330_124900_zpsg560emvg.jpg

 

th_20170330_140834_zpsc0l1m8mt.jpg th_20170330_140831_zps2veu2lal.jpg th_20170330_140828_zpsd2ziuuy6.jpg th_20170330_140819_zps1xy4u7p7.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...