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Double Checking The Timing On My L24 Rebuild

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Not something simple like the rotor button installed backwards?

 

Disregard - just read you can only install one way

Edited by Roady

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The distributor shaft isn't one solid piece all the way through it's actually two pieces to allow the mechanical advance to work.  It's quite possible that someone has dissasembled it and rotated the top section (part 9 below) 180 degrees on assembly.  If this is the case you can either pull it apart and make it right or just move the leads on the cap and pretend it didn't happen, this won't affect the engine at all.

Roger

 

distributor%2079-81zx.gif

Edited by RLY240

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I think Roger has sorted it out. It looks nice and clean inside the Distributor and when enlarged it looks like the screws on the sides have been removed. You said it came off an engine that didn't work. I would say someone disassembled the distributor and just reassembled it with the Rotor shaft assembly facing the wrong way. Either pull it apart to reassemble correctly or change the leads to suit if you want it running quickly.

Good call Roger.

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taken it apart and yes, that's the answer . the shaft is split in the middle just like the picture.

however, with this car, one link leads to another

looks like the springs are different, so someone has replaced one or the other. i'm sure there's precise science involved here, but no one seems to sells the precise items

unless someone has a better idea, off to bunings tomorrow to have a look at something that looks similar

https://www.bunnings.com.au/our-range/building-hardware/general-hardware/general/extension-springs

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The total mechanical advance is set by the weights (they should be stamped with the number) and the springs set the rate at which they advance or where they start advancing in the rev range, soft springs come on earlier. If you replace the springs with something too stiff then the mechanical advance will never kick in.

Roger

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unless you know where to get set of brand spanking new springs, this is the only plan i have. no point getting used ones as they're likely to be buggered on a 45 year old car ( as one of these is). there are a couple of photos on the net, so i'll have just have to apporximate the thickness of the wire and the length

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and more

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/53434-points-distributor-governor-springs-fsm-conundrum/

HOWEVER i dont have the circular hook - they're the same on both side, but some has defintely has messed with this becuase the tangs have been slightly bent. from what this article, it seems to behave correctly eg one hold the weight tight, and the other lets it flop out

some sort of a bloody analogue computer ?

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I'm no expert and I've only seen roughly matched springs. Having a weak and a strong spring of different lengths such as your photo would give a graph that ramped up quickly to a mid point and then take a lot more revs to get up to full advance.

To get it right you first need to know what advance graph you want and then choose the right springs to get there (and have a dizzy dyno to measure the result).

Or you could do what most of us do and chuck in whatever you have but I think you can still buy the stock springs from Nissan.

Roge

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