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Andrew_L26

Definitely Purple 260z

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So good news! I've pretty well finished up with my frame rails, overall I'm really happy with how it's turned out and if I'm being honest I think that it's far stronger then it was before I started (Actual metal is stronger then bog yeah?) I also took my windshield out expecting a massive can of worms however to my surprise the only bit of rust is the bit that I knew about and it's hardly anything, should take 20 mins to cut out and fix up! Next to do is to weld my plate in for my tow point on the drivers side, drill out the passenger side tow point and tap the 1/4' angle iron inside. I think I'll get some thick undercoating for my frame welds so it should be hard to spot, getting me on the road until I can afford to fix it properly or sell the car to someone who is willing to invest the time and money in the car. I gave the car a quick wash the other day and I noticed stacks of water draining into the part that I cut out and replaced, I'll get to the bottom of it and seal that up!

 

I'm hopefully going to get my new windshield in soon, got some windshield rubbers for Christmas which was a very smart gift!

 

Happy new year all! Looking forward to seeing you in the new year!

 

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Hi Andrew

 

The Christmas break is certainly presenting plenty of opportunities to work on those projects.

 

Are you going to hit the welds with a flap wheel before you paint over them in underbody sealer ?

 

Keep up the work, you will be back on the road in no time at all.

 

Cheers

 

PB

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Hi Andrew

 

The Christmas break is certainly presenting plenty of opportunities to work on those projects.

 

Are you going to hit the welds with a flap wheel before you paint over them in underbody sealer ?

 

Keep up the work, you will be back on the road in no time at all.

 

Cheers

 

PB

Yep, I got most of my welds fairly flat (Much flatter then that last picture and I painted on some bitchumen paint which is quite thick and will pretty much make the welds impossible to see (I hope!)  and the sealer is currently drying so we will see once it's done!

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Well Well Well, Bubblegum is moving along nicely. I've had my front brake rotors reground and I rebuilt the front calipers which was surprisingly easy. Can't believe how close I was to spending 200$ on getting someone else to do it!

 

Also, a new windshield was put in a few weeks ago, I was really surprised at the lack of rust. There was a tiny bit near the drivers side drain but that was easily welded up and ground down. Cut out some of my battery area and welded that up, There were a few pin holes in areas that I didn't replace. I think I will cut the whole area out at the end of the year (When I'm finished year 12) but the pin holes were covered by underbody sealer. I want to say that clearly here as I don't want to do anything shady. Also, I got addicted to underbody sealer.... Started just with where I did repairs such as the floorpan etc. And I noticed how black and tantalising it is.... Pretty much ended up resealing the entire underbody... I spent about a day cleaning it all up and to my surprise I found no rust at all! A few bits of surface rust where the old underbody sealer had chipped off but that was quickly sorted with rust converter and a bit of my favourite etch primer. Looks like I got to it all just in time! Started dealing tackiling my exhaust leaks which led me to chopping off my extractors and welding a flange in. Extractors were beyond repair as I found out after some patching up. I've now got an N36 exhaust manifold and an engine pipe on the way! Pleb life I know... Should have gotten some more extractors but anyway. As far as I know the only thing that is unroadworthy is my lack of engine pipe going to the rest of the exhaust. Other then that the car seems pretty darn good. I also took off my rear quarter cover things from the interior and I plan to rust convert down there and prime it all. I don't think it looks too bad but being honest, I'm now not even sure if I'm going to be the one to fully restore this car but we will see what the future holds! Now I just want to enjoy the car that I've put so much time and MONEY into. Once the exhaust is done I'm booking in for a roadworthy. I hope there aren't too many issues left for the roadie guys to sort out. I also hope that they don't think the pretty black underbody sealer is covering anything which I've just started to think about.... Does it look dodgy? I took a few photos beforehand but not an insane amount so I hope all is good...

 

Anyway, enjoy the pictures and the insane BLACKKNESSSS of my underbody!

 

Rear passanger quarter

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Blackness

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Lack of rust in the windshield sills? (Not going to lie I was so confused at what this lack of rust was. WHAT DO YOU MEAN I TOOK SOMETHING OFF BUBBLEGUM AND DIDN'T FIND ANY RUST?)

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Anyone know what these markings are for? Was my zed abducted by aliens in the mid 80s?

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My stuffed extractors

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Lonely exhaust pipe

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My now clean engine, It is leaking a bit of oil from the oil pan gasket but I plan to reseal it when I do my next oil change

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Blackness continues without rotors whilst they were off getting machined

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Also, my dad purchased a NA MX-5 for himself. Absolute bargin he got! (He is looking forward to some Sunday runs up in the Dandenong Ranges where we live! The pop up headlights has really gotten me back to the idea of pop up inspection flap lights for my zed... if I see some cheap and crappy inspection panels I'll continue with this silly little idea haha

 

Bubblegum and the new Miata (Probably call him bouncer due to the blown struts which will be replaced soon)

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And finally, What do you guys and girls think of pop up headlights on a 240z,260z,280zx etc. I think I might actually do it one day just for a bit of fun. I will have to find somewhere to put the battery and washer fluid but thats pretty easy :)

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Edited by Andrew_L26

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Hrmmm...
Don't be surprised if the RW inspector asks for an engineers report for those rust repairs...

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Hrmmm...

Don't be surprised if the RW inspector asks for an engineers report for those rust repairs...

In the front end?

If that was the case I plan to just shell out for new frame rails. Or see what an engineer says. We will see

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Yay, more pandoras box goodness.... Nah, it's sort of what I was expecting. I plan to do a mini version of what Blu 260 did with his drivers side dogleg in a sense that I will just reconstruct the sill area. The good news is that that seems to be all (for now) just the big dent further up where the car looks like it drove past a large rock and it scraped it. Any easy ways to pull the dent out as I've decided that once this area is all sorted I'm going to try and get a bit of paint colour matched and paint the entire dogleg area. I'm not after a showcar finish at this stage but something that will look decent, even if the colour is a bit off.

 

Knew that there was bog here due to the lack of crease where the outer skin attaches. Plus those classic bog scratches that I have become accustom too.

 

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6 months ago this would have scared the life out of me but I think I can handle this one. I may not be able to get it looking incredible but I think I can do a better repair then the previous owner IE "Should we weld it mate?" "Yeah Yeah Nah mate, bogs on special at supercheap, that will do"

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The rest of the dogleg panel & inner sill will be toast.

 

AND STOP USING THAT GASSLESS MIG!!!

 

What would you suggest would be best call to action (other then another welder which I'm already looking into)

 

Not going to lie, I've already realized that this car is pretty well rooted under all the bog but I think it will one day be worth fixing up so I might as well get what I can see done now and help either me or whoever decides to restore this piece.

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I have actually stripped about 70% of the paint off the dogleg, Around the middle of the door back and there hasn't been any rust as far as I can see, there was a little where the paint was scratched but it was meerly a bit of surface rust. It just has a huge dent in it which is a pain. I have the feeling that the car having dealership mudflaps may have helped with this which is positive.

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The gasless mig produces super messy welds, I think you will find a gas mig like night and day to use. You'll also get better quality / strength from using a gas welder.

 

The problem for the dog leg may not be on the outside, but inside.

 

If you don't give things a go, you won't learn. Good luck.

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Thanks Gav! I'm thinking if I don't feel the need to dig super deep into the car I might just spray rust converter inside and fix it up outside. I'll take a look inside and see what it's like, make a note of it in my log book for the car so it can be properly dealt with in the future if needs be.

 

Andrew

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All my welds are done with a gasless mig you have just got to know how to use it. Dont get me wrong a mig welder with gas is great and comes out mint. Get some mild steel sheet and practice if I get a chance this weekend I will see if I can make a small video on welding with gasless.

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If you swap the polarity on a gasless mig. (Swap the positive with negative inside the welder) it produces a much cleaner weld with little to no splatter. I have and use both gas and gasless mig welders and the results arent that much different, if you set it up right.

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If you swap the polarity on a gasless mig. (Swap the positive with negative inside the welder) it produces a much cleaner weld with little to no splatter. I have and use both gas and gasless mig welders and the results arent that much different,

Visually...

Edited by Lurch ™

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Visual and strength will be the same or similar. It all comes down to the ability to weld nothing to do with the welder unit (within its limitations). Some of the strongest welds are done with a fluxcore "gasless" type wire. Practice, practice, practice.

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at the end of the day for a beginner i feel that Mig welding with GAS with produce the best results, and is the easiest to learn.

Now i have pretty much 'permanently borrowed' a workmates welder and gas bottles, so i have no need at this time to buy my own.

However, after research, and on the recommendation on here from a few people, it seems a LINCON 180a Mig is the way to go, best bang for buck. They are sold by BOC, and usually retail around the $1300 mark, although a few times a year they will drop on sale to the $900 ish mark.

 

If i was to buy a welder, that is what id get.

Now i do know you are a young fella, and money might not be as easily available to you, i was actually talking to a workmate of mine, who highly recommends getting a Inverter Mig Welder.

They are small, (suitcase size), light, and are ALOT cheaper than a equivalent transformer Mig welder. And from what ive been told, work really well, and can take a gas bottle.

Apparently they can be had for $250-$350 dollars, maybe someone with more welding experience like Locky could chime in and give his opinion, but it seems this might be a decent solution for you. Buy a GOOD welder, wont break your budget, and get some gas.

Like i said before, i don't even bother opening the garage door when my bottle runs out. But then again, im no expert, just a backyard fabricator who has learned to weld from scratch on my car, and the results speak for themselves.

Just my 2c

Rudi.

Edited by CroS13

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Thanks for all the suggestions guys, I'm still deciding what I'm going to do welder wise but I'm going to get stuck into it soon, I'm not exactly sure when but as soon as I get a bit of time I'll whip out the angle grinder and get cutting. Depending on how bad it is will probably effect what I do welder wise.

 

Thanks again!

 

Andrew

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I'm actually starting to think about the future with this car and I'm wanting peoples opinion. I essentially want to know if this car is worth restoring in the future (In 3-5 years) I'm riding on the idea that the value will go up and it will then be worth stripping back all the paint, removing bog and doing what will be a crazy amount of rust repairs. My plan is to have it all done properly, doing most of the work myself, getting it painted then returning the L28 that is in it back to its former ET glory. My other thoughts that I have is that I could buy a 260z coupe rolling shell and steal parts of my current z, possibly restoring my current shell or selling it etc.

It's all because I have very little trust in this shell and I would love to have one that I know has been repaired properly before adding any power to the car.

 

Thanks,

Andrew

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To be honest Andrew I wouldn't class your shell as very little rust! You have hardly scratched the surface trust me, bog can hide some pretty horrible things If your rust is in the chassis rails thats structural and a serious fix. If I was you and you where happy to wait to fix just wait till you can afford a 2 seater in better condition, just my 2 cents have a serious think buddy. I sat down and had the same think and decided I am to deep in and the rust has been fixed so I will continue :)

Edited by blu260z

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To be honest Andrew I wouldn't class your shell as very little rust! You have hardly scratched the surface trust me, bog can hide some pretty horrible things If your rust is in the chassis rails thats structural and a serious fix. If I was you and you where happy to wait to fix just wait till you can afford a 2 seater in better condition, just my 2 cents have a serious think buddy. I sat down and had the same think and decided I am to deep in and the rust has been fixed so I will continue :)

Yeah, I know my shell is pretty damn bad and that's why I'm considering saving for a 2 seater rolling shell and using my current z as a parts car. I will defiantly get my current z registered, I'm looking into getting an engineering cert for the frame repairs and it is looking surprisingly good, otherwise I may invest in new frame rails, get the car on the road and enjoy it for a little bit. It comes down to if this shell is worth fully restoring. Perhaps when the time comes I should strip all paint and bog and decide from there, expecting to find a replacement shell. The emotional attachment to this car (being my first and already spending so much times with friends fixing it up) will probably get me to keep the shell even if it just ends up as a shell with all the parts being put into a 2 seater. Worst case scenario in a 2+2 would it be worth saving or scrapping/parts even if it is in 10 years time?

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blu260z - I think you may have misread Andrew's post (#122) - he said "It's all because I have very little trust in this shell..." - not "very little rust".

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