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Andrew_L26

Definitely Purple 260z

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Gidday,

 

Looks like a good result, how hard was it to shrink the wrap around the bonnet bulge ?

 

Cheers

 

PB

 

It was fairly easy, the stuff is just like a huge sticker so you just put it on with a squeegee and some heat from a heatgun or hairdryer (which allows it to be stretched easily then re-heated to shrink back again)

 

Loving the member status of "Peter" by the way  ;)

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So today was a day of much progress and rust removal (sort of)

As many of you know my plan is to wrap the car so that I can utterly destroy the paintwork underneath by which I mean get every little bubble out and put some primer on it. That stage has started and been nearly finished today. The first thing to do was get rid of the rust bubbles on the drivers side rear window. That just required some sanding, rust converter then primer. Now the upper hatch sill...... I have been scared of it since I first inspected the car and always knew it would be an issue. Anyways, I removed the rear hatch and got to digging away at the bog. It wasn't too bad however I know that there is probably some issues under the roof around the frame. There are a few rust holes here and there however these are going to be plugged with silicone and wrapped over until it is time for a proper respray. My process for all this was Bog removal>Wire Brushing and sanding off loose Rust>Rust converter>Primer and that is all that I am going to do at the moment. Next weekend the holes will probably be plugged up with silicone ready for wrapping. I am thinking that I will put some bags of rice or Silica (the stuff that removes moisture from food) in the holes where the hatch hinges go and up behind the interior light in an attempt to get rid of moisture. I also intend on essentially filling the entire area with fish oil and or WD-40. Maybe I will get some spray on rust converter and see if I can get that up in there.

 

Must say that rust converter is incredible, it gives the metal or what's left of it so much more strength as well as stopping rust. Also, the car gave birth to a large spider with a solid 15cm span!

 

Try to enjoy these photos

 

Must say the 15mb upload limit is a godsend, now I don't have to manually compress everything beforehand! Thank-you Gav!!!!!
 
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Andrew what are you going to do about the purple inside the doors and engine bay when you wrap it ?

I'm most likely just going to wrap it around inside the door jambs and the engine bay will just be left black with the wrap coming around the fenders which I will probably take off to wrap.

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Also, I forgot to mention in the previous post. Last weekend I chucked in another rocker cover gasket and now NO OIL LEAKS! It's great and only cost like 30 bucks!

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So the last week has been pretty productive I suppose, The rear hatch has been wrapped along with the roof, a deposit for some new wheels and tires has been put down and now all I need to do is wait  :)

 

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Allot more photos will be posted on Saturday 

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So I've been pretty busy with study and have only achieved a small amount with the car however this includes putting on my 17x7.5 +4 Rota RBR's  ;D

I probably would have gone with 16" for the added sidewall flex however I got a fantastic deal thanks to dat240z who was able to get them down from Canberra with some family!

 

I've also decided what I'm going to do with the vinyl wrap that you can see in the photos. I'm really happy with how the car is coming along and getting these new wheels has really changed the look of the car completely.

 

 

**Photos Coming when I can finally upload again**

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Finally worked out how to post photos! ended up just resizing them instead of compressing them

 

Here are some photos from a little car show with me and some of my mates as well as Rod's 260z which was the first zed I ever saw in person over two years ago at Lilydale station.

 

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Edited by Andrew_L26

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Looking sexy behind this mint pink hatchback  ;D

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So here are my new wheels that I absolutely love, they are Rota RBR 17x7.5 +4

 

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I also managed to roughly weld up the few holes in my exhaust (I will re-do these when I can actually weld properly)

 

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I've also got my new brake drums on, and welded up the hole in the firewall

 

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Got a fully SiQ subwoofer with a really good quality amp. My front speakers were absolutly shocking as they had been put in pathetically small speaker boxes so that they would fit. I decided to replace them with some speakers out of a samsung flatscreen tv. They sound pretty good for how thin they are and they fit fantastically up under the dash. Overall I'm pretty happy with the setup, The SiQ sub makes up for the relatively tinny speakers that I have all around. I think I will get some nice leather straps to hold the thing down and some nice chrome buckles to hold the straps to the car. 

 

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Mint stickers for the extra 15kw each (Anyone know if I can get an AusZCar one for the left)

 

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My new tie rod ends (from the incredible Z-Shop in Glen Iris) are in as well as new bushes. I think that the tie rod ends may have been a slightly different size as my wheel alignment was so far off after. I have done it roughly but I plan to get it done properly once I have done messing with replacing steering components etc. It hasn't fixed the shaking in the steering though. I believe that this may be the brake rotors being out of whack as I don't think they have been machined in a long time.

 

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Got my floorpan hole welded up, I still have to get another grinding wheel for the angle grinder to flatten the welds and fix up any holes that may appear. I also need to drop the fuel lines as there is a tiny rust hole just above them  :-\

 

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Woot, I have finished my vinyl wrap! I'm actually quite happy with how it turned out. I actually still have to do a strip down the side of the windshield but I plan to do that when it's out for replacement in a few weeks.

 

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A few days ago I found a whole lot of rust in the front of the frame, I have just begun to cut out this section. My plan is to get some sheet metal roughly the same thickness (Perhaps thicker) and bend it over the part that I have cut out (Being sure to use plenty of heat) I will then weld the newly fabricated part in place and possibly weld plates over the joins for extra strength although I'm not sure if this is necessary. No wonder that I snapped a bolt taking the sway-bar brackets off, Thanks to Lurch for your stud removal video. I was able to adapt the technique for a gasses mig welder and I managed to get the thing out. Does anyone have any other suggestions for fixing up this part of the frame-rails, are super important for the cars structural integrity, I'm under the impression that this part isn't super important as it is in front of the sway-bar mounts and the rail is quite thin anyway. I must note that both sides are like this although the other one has been repaired by the previous owner. I think I will re-do the other side too as it is still rusting because for some reason a previous owner didn't use rust converter but instead just welded plates over the holes and the otherside they just bogged the frame (yeah the frame)  ::)

 

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I hate to be the 1 to say this, but that chassis rail rust looks pretty bad, I'd say the only real way to deal with it properly would be to replace the entire rail...I think you may have to decide what you want to with this car, given you have found quite a few patch up's already, it's likely there is a few more waiting for you.

 

I don't want to discourage you, but you may be better off selling or parting it out and saving more money to buy a better starting point. It's totally up to you, but that chassis rail would make me nervous driving it.

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I hate to be the 1 to say this, but that chassis rail rust looks pretty bad, I'd say the only real way to deal with it properly would be to replace the entire rail...I think you may have to decide what you want to with this car, given you have found quite a few patch up's already, it's likely there is a few more waiting for you.

 

I don't want to discourage you, but you may be better off selling or parting it out and saving more money to buy a better starting point. It's totally up to you, but that chassis rail would make me nervous driving it.

+1

As someone who has dived right into rust repairs on my 240z. I would use that rail as an indication to the rest of the shell, at first mine didnt look that bad but then i unspot welded the beaver panel, roof,drip rails , floors, rear tool compartment and got into things like the dog legs, firewall, wheel arches and heaps of other places. To cut this short these cars rust from inside out and goes alot deeper then what appears on the surface. This was also all in a car that had been locked away for many moons indoors.

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I would suggest saving up my pennies and taking it to Locky to fix the structural rust properly when you have a chance, you will want to get it done properly and he is one of the best down your way. I think the car is def worth saving as there are others far worse out there. Good luck.

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good work so far buddy, i like how your real young and not afraid to have a go! 

 

Just one suggestion, looking at your welds, i was thinking to myself that you aren't using gas. Then you mentioned about adapting Locky's bolt removal technique to use with a gassless mig.

In my honest opinion, if you don't have gas, don't bother mig welding. If your welder can take a gas bottle, either rent one from BOC, or now i believe you can actually buy bottles, i think from speed gas. If i recall they were around $400 to buy and then $100 to fill,  It was a exchange program much like your LPG BBQ bottles at the servo.

Rudi.

 

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Gidday,

 

I agree woth the previous comments, get someone with a good reputation and experience in Z rust issues to have a look at it.

Rust is usually like an iceberg - you can only see the tip of it.

 

Cheers

 

PB

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Hi all, I have just logged on and hadn't seen your comments before I started work today. I actually cut out that part of the frame, I have some (sort of) good news and that is that I know why it was rusting hahaha. There was a hole in the radiator just above where the rust was, It has been patched but they didn't do anything about the rust. I took a torch and looked down the frame rail and everything seems good, there is a little surface rust going from where the swaybar bolts in about 10cm back inside then it seems all clear from there back. About the Gasless mig welder, According to my neighbor who was welding semi-professionally it should be fine as long as I'm using mig wire that is designed to be used without gas.

 

So anyway, this is what I got done today. I know it's not a permanent fix but it should be ok for a rwc once I neaten it up a little more. I'm defiantly going to talk to Locky about getting this done properly soon however I'm in year 12 next year and I wanted to have it registered by Feb before I go back to school. I am aware that these welds are absolutely filthy but they're strong.

I think I am going to drill out the spot welds on the support for the swaybar tomorrow and replace it with a 1/4" Steel L bend

If nothing else, it was good welding practice  :-\

 

 

Looking into the front radiator support

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Overview

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Piece that I fabbed up

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And welded in

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After reading all of your comments I'm really not sure what to do. The positive things that I can say are that all of the rust that I have found is for a reason, firewall rust was because the drainage for the cowel was blocked, floorpan was because of my windshield rubber being worn and leaking under the dash and this I hope is because of the radiator leak.

 

Any ideas on where to go from here?

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Say I was to sell her how would I go about it, part out or sell it to someone as a whole.

 

I really don't mind spending a fair amount of money on rust repairs however not for a few years. If I'm able to stop her from getting any worse and making sure the car is safe, get her back on the road for 3-5 years and then take her off the road and do a full strip-down resto would be great. I just felt like I was so close to that holy RWC, all it needs is for the rotors to be machined, and a bit of rust about the size of a 50c piece cut out under the battery tray.  

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If your RWC is anything like south Australia they will not be passing that, sorry to break the news. If they even see you have messed with the chassis it wont pass. You may say your welds are "strong" but in the event of a crash or even harsh driving the chassis will crack right next to the weld as you have fatigued the steel next to it. Even then if your insurance catch on you wont be covered and it will snowball from there. I am a fitter /fabricator and even I would be sus about doing work on my own chassis :/

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If your RWC is anything like south Australia they will not be passing that, sorry to break the news. If they even see you have messed with the chassis it wont pass. You may say your welds are "strong" but in the event of a crash or even harsh driving the chassis will crack right next to the weld as you have fatigued the steel next to it. Even then if your insurance catch on you wont be covered and it will snowball from there. I am a fitter /fabricator and even I would be sus about doing work on my own chassis :/

Hmm, sounds like it's off to Locky then. Say I get the frame rail replaced professionally by him would there be any issues from then on?

 

I'm in Vic by the way but lets be honest, that's not the point  :-\

Edited by Andrew_L26

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I cannot speak on behalf of Locky because I have never seen any of his work, but if he knows what he is doing I would say there would be no more issues. I just know that they dont even like you drilling into the chassis let along cutting a section out and welding it back in. I am sure someone will be able to point you in the right direction mate.

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I cannot speak on behalf of Locky because I have never seen any of his work, but if he knows what he is doing I would say there would be no more issues. I just know that they dont even like you drilling into the chassis let along cutting a section out and welding it back in. I am sure someone will be able to point you in the right direction mate.

Ok, thanks for that. I've messaged Locky, I'll wait for his response and go from there

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Get in touch with Lurch and have him look at it face to face. He'll give you a realistic idea of what needs doing, how bad things really are and what it will take to repair it.

 

Don't get spooked yet, ALL zeds have rust.

Edited by Gareth. J.

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I had a brief look at Andrews Bus at the BBQ & we've discussed repairs via PM.
At this stage I've advised him to repair the rust himself, get it on the road and then figure out what he wants to do.

 

It's a 'Pandora's Box' unfortunately... 

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