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gav240z

Rear Slam Panel Rust Repair.

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More progress. Tack welded into place. This metal is super thin and I was using Mig welder to join the pieces together. So it's easy to blow holes in it.

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So I started on this..

 

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Managed to find some 0.75mm thick steel (nice and thin and pliable). 

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So with the indentation (pressed area) in the middle of the bumper and the mounting locations I'm thinking I'll make those separately and then weld those sections into this piece.

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Tafe was cancelled last week due to the teacher being unwell..had my old teacher this week (between us, he's much better).

 

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Been a while between posts.

Finally cut off the old lower section, and tack welded in the new piece.

Had quite a bit of trouble creating the pressed section, I couldn't quite replicate the original shape exactly. But got close. Since it's hidden behind a bumper it won't be obvious. I also created the exhaust cut out section, but it's not exactly the same as original. I am contemplating cutting out the original section and welding it in. Either that or tidy up this piece more and perhaps use a bit of body filler to sculpt it.

I still have to create the bumper mounting points (pressed areas) I didn't want to rely on my template. So I decided I'd offer it up to the car and trace out the exact areas that need modifying and then modify it.

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So I haven't been entirely happy with my rear valance section - and decided I'd have a second go using a spare section I got for $50. Only problem is it had been hacked up already. So I figured I had nothing to lose. It also bothered me I had spent money on a reproduction lower section and not put it to use.

I figure if nothing else the practice is good for me.

1 major problem with the reproduction item is how thick the steel is. It meant that I couldn't give it that nice curve without it buckling in the middle due to the die pressing. So the solution was heat the panel with oxy and smack it down with a hammer using 2 blocks underneath to support the areas you don't want to bend.

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Here is the butchered section I got as scrap for $50 with another 260z rear valance. All the weld marks are where I've added back in metal! This has been good practice given how fragile these sections are and thin! The lower section was already missing.

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How the 2 pieces look mated together. I still haven't cut out the tail lamp sections yet or drilled the mounting holes.

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Rough mock up on the car. I'm actually quite happy with it and this piece already has the cutouts for the rear bumper mounting holes.

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A few more examples. Nothing is buttoned up or welded together yet!

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Surprise the slam panel area is stuffed.. but with my new and improved oxy welding skills I think I can fix it easily. Also unlike the other piece I have something to work from this time!

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You can see the dent in the rear tyre well from the rear end nudge years ago. I have to smooth that out and the rear boot floor.

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Spent some time this afternoon tracing out the original valance section (tail lamp sections).

Here it is for reference.

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Which looks like this once traced out.

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Transferred to my repaired panel.

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Test fit 1 side done.

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Time to do the other side also.

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Still need to file it up and hammer dolly the folds better.

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Top and bottom pieces haven't been joined yet. But already you can see it taking shape.

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Still plenty of work to do, I must buy a compressor (and air tools) + oxy/acetylene welder because tafe has ended for the year and I don't have either of those tools at home.

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Nice work Gav that is a very tricky (and frustrating) section to get looking good. There are just so many angles, flat sections and holes in a small area.

Jeff

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Thanks mate, I'm doing this for the challenge, only way to get better is practice. I was originally not going to use the reproduction lower valance section I had bought as the pressings are a little different to OEM, but I realise it is quite hard to pick for most.

Example.

https://jalopnik.com/what-a-lifelong-z-mechanic-thinks-of-nissan-today-1830083808

The orange car here is using the same lower half.

I will try grinding the welds a bit flatter and then using a light skim of filler over the top if required or high fill primer (if I can get away with it).

I think I'll bite the bullet and finally buy a decent air compressor and oxy/acetylene bottles / set up to practice more at home. I've been relying on Tafe and their tools until now. So only get a few hours a week to work on this stuff.

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