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aircobra

Disassembling the rear supsension. dont know what the part is called

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i've removed the rear suspension for sandblasting

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Axle/RearSuspension/tabid/1731/Default.aspx

bscailly i need to remove #58, but i can't work if pin #65 is holding it in place. taking off the  nut reveals some sort of a bolt, but there's no head on it. Am I supposed to press it out from undeneath? can't tell as the whole assembly is very rusty

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65 pin is holding it in place, from memory its a tapered pin and you knock it out hitting the threaded side and then you need to hope your spindle isn't rusted is place, fun job. :P

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Remove the lower arm (transverse link) and the strut assembly as one unit.

Lay it on its side and spray penetrating oil on the shaft at the end and through the hole where you have removed the locating pin. Spay every night for a week before even attempting to remove the spindle pin.

Make a spindle pin puller (see web for designs)

After the week break the spindle puller trying to remove the spindle

Redesign  a stronger pin remover.

Remover spindle pin

Ask oneself why one bought an S30

 

 

If it ain't broke don't fix it - Just use a wire wheel in a hand drill to clean it up, no need for blasting.

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Make a spindle pin puller tool. Don't whack the pin or you'll destroy the thread on the pins.

 

If you get desperate thread on a bolt so if you hit the end of it you'll more likely damage the nut than the thread itself.

 

Best bet is use the right tool.

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Just did this job last night.

 

First Side (Passenger):

Absolutely no dramas, knocked out the lock pin, tapped the spindle pin it broke free, set it up in the press and pressed it out with minimal force (~400kg).

 

Second Side (Driver):

OH MY GOD WHAT WAS I THINKING. The first side gave me false confidence, pulled the lock pin. Gave it a tap no love, bigger tap, no love. Set it up in the press - 6ton!!! mushroomed the pin and my drift not even budging. Retreat.

Cut off the mushroomed thread. reinspect.

Collect second pair of hands. Oxy the casting until it is stupidly hot - hit again, no dice. Back to the press - 4 ton and the casting practically glowing - it cracked free.

Get it about halfway out and it starts to seize again, with the bushing burnt out its possible just to get the wishbone off and get a better stand on the casting in the press - new drift tool - constant two tons of pressure right to the bitter end!

 

I hope I never have to do that again. I have all new spindle pins to reassemble with my bushing kit, what is the best agreed way to make them easy next time? Grease? Anti-Seize? Clean the interior of the casting? Any Ideas?

 

 

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Make sure the casting is clean, the correct size & damage free, then PLASTER the pin & & housing with anti-seize.

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I think we all knew what the part would be before looking at the diagram hahah.

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Spindle pins are purchased separately to the kit, or you can just use a big long high tensile bolt. That's what my car has now.

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I did a rubber order to Black Dragon and picked up some of the more harder to find components when I had the chance.

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finished the total bastard of a job

1. the pins come out with some hammering and soaking wth RP7 o/night

2. unlike ... the front pivot bolt, which i had to grind thru  and part of it is still stuck in the bush

3. and long suspension bolt  (the one held in by th famous oin) on the left side. the right one came out ok, this one will no budge a milimiter. i'm going to take the whole assembly to w.shop with a massive press, i think. looks like there are other bushes that need to be pressed out any way

tomorrow the massive 25 mm nuts

PS. any recommended sanblasters in SE area?

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Dont "press" it out, the pressure exerted can "bell" out the pushed end, and it grips the bores.

Better that a screwd inner ( threaded Booker rod, with drilled and tapped hole that screws onto spindle threaded stud.

An over tube, with big nut /washer, and screw big nut, which slowly pulls spindle out.

Suggest this kethod to the shop you take it to.

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i don't have the engineering setup for that, so i officially need help

while i was taking out the shocks from the struts, i realised that the bushes must be seized onto the spindle since they arms don't even pivot properly, just sort of flop around with a limited amount of movement

i'm reluctant to take to my local mechanic since he only has a standard shop press

any suggestions pls?

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ended up taking it to pedders, who cut up th espindle, so i'm going to have to pressout the reaming bits

by the way, are the bushes in the front control arms replacable or should i just leve them?

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic20m01

 

 

I cut mine too and the only way we could get them out was to buy a drill press and drill them out. Not a fun job and we have done it 4 times now!

 

 

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I bought a spindle pin puller tool from Hybridz. I broke off one threaded end on the first pin, the puller has two ends and screws onto the threads, I reversed it and used very carefully. Got both pins out using the tool and a 300mm shifter.

 

I may still have it floating around if anyone wants to try it, or get it copied.

 

 

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I bought a spindle pin puller tool from Hybridz. I broke off one threaded end on the first pin, the puller has two ends and screws onto the threads, I reversed it and used very carefully. Got both pins out using the tool and a 300mm shifter.

 

I may still have it floating around if anyone wants to try it, or get it copied.

Could you put some pics up of it?

Ta!

 

I've done a ghetto one using builders threaded "booker" rod, drilled and tapped at one end, and use a bit of 400 mm long larger tube over it, a washer and nut on Booker rod at other end, but, after ripping out the tapped thread, 3 bloody times, i carefully placed it at the far end of the shed, via airmail,,,,

 

It probably would be better with a larger diam length of Booker rod, with the internal tapped end heat treated for a bit more strength??

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i carefully placed it at the far end of the shed, via airmail,,,,

 

;D LOL! I've used that same shipping method many a time.

 

I'll have a look for it and try to put some pics up. It sound similar to the one you used.

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This was made a long time ago with bits of scrap so I'm not sure if the step inside the small sleeve is necessary. You just need to apply grease on the sliding surfaces.

 

The key to all this is patience - a message I posted before but ignored - soak the spindle in penetrating oil for a week. Half transmission oil and half acetone.

 

Aircobra. I notice you are seeking a lot of advice but you are NOT a donating member!!!!!

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post-684-144023787816_thumb.jpg

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that's because i have no idea how to donate and how the forum works

but yes the support has been great, so i will find out right now

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