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Brakes upgrades ideas on a 260Z

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yeah....my brains not working...also makes the reason y i put my spare on her car make more sense :D thanks for picking up on it

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If only it were for all 3!

 

No it's per set. How do you think that price fairs?

 

What sort of price would the R31 parts cost from a wrecker? Ie calipers, discs, brackets??? and still wondering how hard it is to get those braqckets off the R31 skyline?

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Evan' date=' not sure you might want to ask Lambs but I've been thinking about going down the R31 rear end set up it's just that I've been getting differing advice.

 

Lambs. I've checked out a few R31's and it looked like a bit of a pain to get the brackets off. Once the calipers and discs are pulled off how hard or rather what else is involved to get the brackets off?

[/quote']

 

R31 rear cals fit under 14" rims (only Silh's and Ti's had 15" rims, all the rest used 14" + all used the same brakes)

 

Getting the brackets off is fairly simple. Once the cals and discs are off, you'll see 4 nuts behind the axle disc flange. Those nuts secure the wheel bearing retainer (ie hold the axle in place) as well as the brake backing plate and the brackets, which simply slide over studs. Undo the nuts and pull the axle out of the diff housing. Once the axle is out, the brake backing plate and the bracket simply slide off. Sometimes the axle can be difficult to budge, esp if it's been in place for awhile, but a bit of gentle 'persausion' usually works.

 

As to price, I haven't checked in a long time, but I'd guess a place like Pick-a-Part would want around $30/cal

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I'm interested in the rear brake conversion there' date=' but is that $500 for the 3 sets or per set?[/quote']

 

Your probably looking at around $600 once shipping is added, even using surface parcel post (weight being the main issue).

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My car is running skyline rears and stock front.

can't tell you how well they run cause I haven't had a chance to properly 'run it in' (not registered yet) I can tell you that they work......

 

I little trick with the bracket....

on mine someone had done a bad job converting the rear drums to 280 discs (and I mean a REALLY bad job (explains how many times it was crashed!))

so we had a 280 bracket lying around...all that was required was welding up the holes and redrilling them in an acceptable position.

It would look nicer with a factory one tho (although u can get them plated afterwards (which is what i did).

 

Anyway, just another option.

Huw

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OK thanks guys I'll have another go at removing the R31 calipers and brackets, oh and the rear disc from the R31 is that also a direct bolt on to the S30 rear?

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oh and the rear disc from the R31 is that also a direct bolt on to the S30 rear?

 

Yes, PCD and centre hole are the same plus the offset is correct to line up with the caliper once the bracket is bolted in place. The centre hole of the bracket needs to be bored to match the OD of the hole in the original brake backing plate. New holes have to be drilled in the bracket to match the original bolt pattern and some grinding of the strut is required to get the bracket to sit flat against the backing plate flange.

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Hi

 

Maybe this ad on OzDat is of interest

 

240/260z Rear Disc Conversion I have for sale a rear disc conversion for the above,no mods reqd to fit.Has internal handbrake setup

Car Identification: 240/260z

Price: $600.00 Location: wollongong NSW

Contact: Graeme Phone: 0413393616

 

Warren

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Hey guys, has anything gone further with the rear disk conversion? Still really keen, wanna try and get the car ready for the Dutton rally soon, would be great to be able to stop even better. I'm currently watching the NSW one up around Canberra and Sydney (friend racing in AE86), giving the Evos and Rexs a flogging on the hillclimbs and some on the motorkanas. Anyone else entering?

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I just finished my brake conversion on my 260Z... 266mm vented fronts with 4spot Landcruiser's & 280mm solid rear with sigma single piston caillipers. I'm still using the 7/8 M/C bit will be changed to 15/16 to give me a slightly firmer pedal. This set up works quite well with the fronts locking up before the rears under heavy braking.

 

Let me know what you guys think... I'm also working on the "Maxima bracket" set up but with a 290mm solid disc.

 

Nick.

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Well I took the plunge into the same rear disc setup we were discussing earlier, I gotta try and get the car ready for the Dutton and its gonna take 4-6 weeks to get here, so I'm out. I'll let you know how they go though.

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my setup may not be as easy for some guys but becuse i changed all heap of stuff it may be an option if doing similar things after.

 

my has 5 stud conversion and cv type driveshafts also power steering.

 

also wanted 4 pot cal at the front and disk at rear.

 

FRONT

 

i used rx7 s4/5 turbo calipers but catch is i also used rx7 strut and hubs. reason for this is i got power steering at the front and wanted 5 stud rims and 4 spot calipers. nothing from nissan stable could do the cut because of the power steering being mounted on rear. but rx7 does have at the front. also i wanted new type of struts with small bottom seat which also rx7 has.

 

so at the front i got vented 297mm rotors with 4 pot cal and ease of using rx7 coil over at later stage.

 

REAR

 

i got r200 lsd diff at the back and didnt like the uni type driveshafts. and the diff came with 4 bolt type cvs. also needing rear 5 stud i ended up getting comlete trailing arms from oz z31 turbo with rotors axles and calipers and handbrake cables. both for $200.

 

the deal was to use z31 axles with 5 stud.also turbo z31 has same companion flange as my r200 from r31 2 door.

 

i was hoping to find bearing that will fit 260z outside with 300zx inside. but problem was the early zed has imperial bearing size while z31 metric.

 

on the end i go tthe hubs machined to suit the bearings.

 

funny thing is the rear bracket that was welded was cut off and cleaned up but the holes actualy lined up to the 260z hub. anyway after machining

 

it all went together well..

 

COST

 

bearings cost $100, machining $250, new cv shafts (shorter ones $140 for a pair) ones maxima other pathfinder but its same as turbo one from r31 just shorter

 

all up $700 but i got more than just a brake upgrade. as for front stuff i just got it swaped for my r32 stuff that came with front cut. only custom springs were extra $150 for a pair.

 

but the front end is lot lighter than before cause mazda uses alloy hubs.

 

as for brake bias i just replaced the whole master cylinder with r32 item as brakes are identical to the original r32 shouldnt have a problem. but time will tell when it gets tested.

 

got pics off all this gear will post it tonight.. prob wont suit yoour bolt up jobs but if planing future mods prob its good to think about it now than doing the job twice.

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Sounds pretty awsome. Unfortunately I haven't got anywhere near enough time to do conversions and im sure i will be happy with what i have for a number of years. Plus this is only my occassional f\throw around car, next year there will be an Evo 8 to get ready for racing, but then again I wont be stuck in the army then either. Can't wait :twisted: :twisted:

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Just to touch on the 4x4 Hilux calipers again. I just found out the wieght difference between the stock front calipers and the 4x4 Hilux calipers is 2 pounds or 900 grams!

900 grams does'nt justify not having them considering how low cost and straight forward the conversion is!?

 

Sulio

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Don't forget to upgrade your master cylinder with it though, when I first did it it was sloppy as and I was almost on the floor to get full brakes, but everyone I have talked to about it reckons the 280Zx master cylinder fixes it. I will have it in by end of next week, let you know how it goes.

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Is the 280zx master cylinder a straight bolt in? I've heard you have to find the earlier model, from memory it has 2 round oil chambers as apposed to the square ones????

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The 280 master cylinder should be straight bolt in, the only difference really being the diameter at 15/16 instaed of 3/8, from a sketchy memory.

 

The master cylinder to be careful of is the 1 inch 300ZX as one one type the pipe connections are on the side of the cylinder, not the bottom and the mounting holes are horizontal, not vertical. I got caught upgrading my 15/16 master cylinder to the 1 inch master cylinder. no big drama, as I was able to drill two new holes in the fire wall and support plate, I don't run a vacuum booster, and get new lines made up to suit the side mounts.

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Just as a side note, I just got a new master cylinder from bgt brakes in Hawthorn for $80. (Quite reasonable I thought)

cheers

Bruce

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