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red76z

The 4 year build 260z LS1

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Hi Scott

 

Your car is looking amazing, and love the fact that it is a 2+2.

A real inspiration.

 

Cheers

 

PB

I've got nothing else to add but what a great job. As Rev said love the colour. 8)

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Spent a bit of time pimping up the dash lights with smd led globe's, and some lighting under the dash when the curtsey light comes on triggered from the door button and powered from the cigarette lighter socket.

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If you guys are doing a engine swap and need to change your fuel system to efi and surge tank try this.

I drilled a 25mm hole in the bottom of the tank then built a tin dish to suit the profile of the tank  installed a fuel pick up and drain plug in it then tig welded it on.

I also used the fuel tank liner kit resin type to seal any pin holes in it. The returne line is the stock one and the original fuel feed line has been capped off.

By doing this it keeps every thing standard in the car. And the serge tank is about 2 litres.

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Hi Scott,

That's coming up awesome. I would be very interested in having a look and a chat to you one day.

 

I've just finished and installed my electric power steering column and what a difference. So many things I want to do....lol

 

Keep up the good work.

 

Justin

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Spent today in the shed modifying the rear spoiler to take the new twin 3" exhaust system. I used alloy nutserts to hold it on to the car body this time instead of the self tappers used 20 years ago. A small skim of bog on a few parts before the high fill primer.

Another step closer.

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Finally got the z back to the ground. Fitted the new wheels and tyres to it today.

18 x 235 x 40 with +15 offset running 10mm spacers in the front.

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Finished the guards today all primed up ready for paint.

I really like the fluted look, just breaks up the front end a bit.

They are a patch panel available from rare spares to suit a HJ, HZ Monaro.

If you are thinking if doing this expect to spend at least 4 days per guard to get them right. The welding process really makes the guard warp and twist. But the final result is very cool. I will post a few more pics soon as colour is on the way.

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Finally finished sanding and today was paint time.

4 coats of base red

3 coats of metalic red

7 coats of candy

4 coats of clear

And this only tool 11 hours to do.

The next car I paint will be flat white.

 

It is all worth the effort the finished results are awesome. This red at certain angles is near black and other angles it sparkling red is so bright.

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this thing is schmick red76 8). Real quality stuff. Great progress. Love the louvered inspection lids too

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Thanks dat240z

The luvered inspection lids get rid of the engine bay heat really well.  I have only had the car on stands to test them with a pedestal fan feeding the radiator and the amount of heat that comes out of these vents is about 90deg. And it keeps the hood temp down quite a bit. Plus they look cool to.

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Unwrapped the car today after the paint job. It turned out perfect. Now let the paint harden up for a week then bolt it back together then a bit more sanding, priming then paint.

The trim should be ready this week. Went from brown to black.

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I got to spend a few more hours in the shed today fitting all of the guts back into the two door shell's.

When I pulled them apart about 2 years ago I took a large number of photos to be my memory when re fitting was to be done, but they were not required and the whole process went quite smooth. If any one is to pull the door apart the sequence is as follows.

260z 2+2 guide

240z should be the same except for the removal of the upperdoor handle. as is does not exist.

1. Remove the window steel frame work be careful as the bolts at the front of the frame work will more than likely brake off due to rust.

2. Undo the 4 screws holding the glass to the winder mechanism.  Wind the window up and down to gain access to these.

3. Pull glass out.

4. Remove the glass guide rails front and rear, 3 x 17mm nuts each side. DO NOT adjust the height adaptors as this will slow down reassembly.

5. Remove the four screws holding the winder mechanism and the 2 screws that stop it from swivelling located on the inner door skin then remove complete unit.

6. Unclip the plastic clip from the rod that connects on to the door lock. Then remove the latch assembly 3 small philips head screws on the outer skin this will allow it to fall into the door frame. Undo the upper and lower door handles screws and disconect the lower handle from the long rod that runs up to the door latch, then undo the 2 pivot point bolts for this rod and the upper handle rod.

All of these components Will come out the large hole at the bottom of the door, except the glass.

Assembly is the reverse of this sequence

I hope this will help save you some time on your builds.

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Man this things gunna fly. Nice work, love the paintwork and your on the home stretch. Hey Scott, when you did your engine mounts, did you take them off the rails or from the xmember? - from the photos it looks like they come off the xmember. Also, I really hate to bring this up at this point but those outer unis won't last, I know this from experience, breaking several with only a turbo 2.8, near standard height, easy clutch and never any burnouts etc. They will take some torque but eventually you will run over a small bump while accelerating and they'll go bang and bash around under the floor doing damage to the floor and suspension.

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Well Scott I have to say that this is an impressive build

all the attention to to the smallest detail from the suspension / brakes and through to the panels and paint.

 

I have enjoyed your posts and thanks for taking the time to share it with us

 

I noticed that all the nuts and bolts and window/door  mechanisms appear to be all nice and "SHINY" did you have them electroplated or did you do some other magic

 

Cheers

Phil

 

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Thanks Phill

My magic trick with all of the old rusty bolts is to replace them with new ones.

One of the perks owing a automotive tool shop. As I have heaps of oem bolts in stock.

It is all the small things that make the most impact on the build.

I will post a few more progress pics in the next couple of days to keep you up to date.

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Thanks Howdy.

The engine mounts just bolt on to the origional tower mounst of the zed.  They are from a croud in Texas called John's Cars.

http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm

They do a full mount to suit the Z cars.

In regards to the outer uni joints only time will tell. Mick24Oau has been running the same thing in his LS1 400hp 240Z with out any problems yet. The hub spline should be the weak point in theory.

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Thanks Scott, that's awesome, no need to weld mounting points to the rails. I hate doing anything that can't be reversed back to original. Good luck with the unis, I found original unis seemed stronger than aftermarket replacements.

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