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gav240z

MK63 Calipers vs Toyota Hilux 4 pot (S12-8)?

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Hi Everyone,

I'm looking to return my 72 240z to the road and something I'd like to look into is the brakes. Whilst they are working I'd like to go through them and make sure everything is up to scratch.

 

I'm just wondering however if anyone can shed some light on the differences between the MK63 calipers vs the S12-8, as far as I know they both bolt up to the stock location and both are 4 pot calipers. But what about weight, do they both weigh in the same? Is there any other significant differences? I'm guessing the Toyota 4 pots may not be recognised for certain competition categories, whilst the MK63s were probably a sports option catalog special and therefore eligible?

 

I'm watching a set on Yahoo! Auctions at the moment (MK63 caliper set) but is there any major difference on a road car?

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External casting s different, 63's pistons are all same size, Toyota isn't.

Seal kits are not interchangeable.

Weights are a few grams different, 63's are a tiny bit lighter.

I have a set of both.

 

How mch are the ones on Yahoo?

I have been able to source two different heat range pads, and both vented and non vented rotors.

 

The 63's also came in a narrower non-vented version.

Part numbers are in older Nissan catalogues.

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http://page7.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g147722687

 

I'm guessing the 63's will go for around $400 - $500 AU.

 

Ideally I'm thinking of refreshing and improving the standard brakes, especially the rear drum set up. But looking at options like MK63 / Toyota 4 pots and R31 rear calipers etc..

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i have the toyota s12 caliper on standed rotors, i will tell you one thing, if you hit the brakes hard you will know about it, it can also cause red dots to appear on road worthy inspectors heads from time to time.  ;D

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For a road S30 I really don't see the point, especially the rear disc conversion. Gav, you've owned a s30 for longer than I, was there ever a case you ran out of brakes? Even some track-day Zed owners have mentioned the stock brakes are fine.

 

Also the s12-8 may not clear some low offset wheels.

 

Just my 2c.

 

 

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For a road S30 I really don't see the point, especially the rear disc conversion. Gav, you've owned a s30 for longer than I, was there ever a case you ran out of brakes? Even some track-day Zed owners have mentioned the stock brakes are fine.

 

Also the s12-8 may not clear some low offset wheels.

 

Just my 2c.

 

 

 

Yeah I think the biggest issue I want to tackle is that the rears lock up before the fronts when you really stand on the brakes. I've tried adjusting the drums but I think it might be worth replacing / rebuilding the slave cylinders and machining a spare set of drums I've got (which don't appear to have those infamous heat cracks in them) and replacing the shoes to bed it all in.

 

The only time I ran out of brakes in an S30z was in my 260z 2+2 coming down the Dandenong mountains with 4 people in the car and brake fade was pretty scary. Of course that was some spirited driving and constant downhill with the load of people in the car.

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In the engine bay, after the brake pressure differentiation switch ( this brings up the red brake fail light) there is a rear line factory fixed pressure reduction valve, these can get a bit sticky, and allw more rear pressure to go to rears, causing rear lck up.

 

Fit, in place, a screw in/out type line pressure reducer, then have an bserver stand by on a "private" road, and do hard brake stops, screw it OUT at each try, this will bit by bit reduce rear line pressure, and stop rear lckup.

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In the engine bay, after the brake pressure differentiation switch ( this brings up the red brake fail light) there is a rear line factory fixed pressure reduction valve, these can get a bit sticky, and allw more rear pressure to go to rears, causing rear lck up.

 

Fit, in place, a screw in/out type line pressure reducer, then have an bserver stand by on a "private" road, and do hard brake stops, screw it OUT at each try, this will bit by bit reduce rear line pressure, and stop rear lckup.

 

Is this what you're referring to?

w9v91j.jpg

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Is this what you're referring to?

w9v91j.jpg

 

More likely the other valve in this picture is what is being referred to.

post-3930-144023775227_thumb.jpg

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Bolt on some hilux 12+8's front calipers and get pads from GSl rallysport in QLD. They'll rebond any pad/shoe you can give them. Their A1RM compound will be fine for road and handle moderate track abuse. Spend the cash saved on the MK63's on braided lines, good quality pads and fluid.

 

A Madza RX7 E-FD3S front pad will fit the 12+8's with a little mod, heaps of compounds available in those (project mu). I've seen project mu rear brake drum shoes on yahoo japan for fairly cheap (my project mu front pads in 12+8 calipers are epic!), I'd go with these if I knew they'd be as good as the R31 rears braking wise. If anyone runs these rear project mu shoes let me know how they perform!

 

My personal preference would be to stay as close to the factory setup as possible, I like that OEM look but it can need added performance. If you start doing quick track days or racing then look to upgrade them, the stock setup can have huge brake fade when pushed even with cooling ducts.

 

I find R31 rear calipers to be horrible, I run them and they are hideous in every respect. Bleeding, fitting new pads is terrible and the screw pistons are just crap. IMHO the stock drums are much easier.

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I agree with all of the above posts. S12-8 solid rotor calipers are more than ample and the only time I have had brake fade was going flat chat at Winton on a 35 degree day at skyline nationals last November

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you need better brake fluid agno  :P  ,im yet to have my 260z have brake fade and im running s12-8 also, or maybe I might not have been going as hard as you

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http://page7.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g147722687

 

I'm guessing the 63's will go for around $400 - $500 AU.

 

I was wrong... 70,000 yen

 

and this set. http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/187380814 went for around 60,000 yen...

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