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zed74

Lime Green 1972 240z.... Project deadline NDN15 (hopefully)

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Thanks

 

It's a good honest car - but I only wanted the go fast bits :)

 

The car will be fully operational when available for sale & it's too good to fully part out...so donor car is probably the wrong terminology.

 

I will eventually post up car in the for sale section & upon sale provide $500 to the Auszcar site...as I am long overdue to make a monetary contribution :D

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Dry sumping definitely helps the instal height - that's the way we went with my red Z that has raised ports and injection and Motec M4-8Pro (all legal for 2B, but you can't add a bulge to the bonnet...technically...) , but then had to mod the alloy dry sump to clear the cross member when the engine went back aways...  old dry sump pan used to be very hard to seal as a cut and shut as it flexed too much, so alloy is better, more rigid and better seal

 

If you run serious slicks and lots of G-forces then you can run a bearing dry on oil surge pretty easily if you don't dry sump it, so it's expensive but good insurance

 

I added the ugly duck G-nose for the downforce - but the splitters are more effective now and they made them legal (i think for 2B), so not sure if its worth it.  I may go back to the stock front like Gordo's - although if you look at the old race pic's mine had an extra lip on the front of the bonnet to reduce the intake area and drag and special alloy hinges :). It never ran hot, because plenty of oil with the dry sump and an oil cooler.

 

You can definitely run the flares without the G-nose for a more stock look.

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Dry sumping definitely helps the instal height - that's the way we went with my red Z that has raised ports and injection and Motec M4-8Pro (all legal for 2B, but you can't add a bulge to the bonnet...technically...) , but then had to mod the alloy dry sump to clear the cross member when the engine went back aways...  old dry sump pan used to be very hard to seal as a cut and shut as it flexed too much, so alloy is better, more rigid and better seal

 

If you run serious slicks and lots of G-forces then you can run a bearing dry on oil surge pretty easily if you don't dry sump it, so it's expensive but good insurance

 

I added the ugly duck G-nose for the downforce - but the splitters are more effective now and they made them legal (i think for 2B), so not sure if its worth it.  I may go back to the stock front like Gordo's - although if you look at the old race pic's mine had an extra lip on the front of the bonnet to reduce the intake area and drag and special alloy hinges :). It never ran hot, because plenty of oil with the dry sump and an oil cooler.

 

You can definitely run the flares without the G-nose for a more stock look.

 

Thanks Tom,

I appreciate your input...ultimately I will go dry sumped with the motor as I hate spending money twice ;)

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G nose at the very least will reduce drag and lift so worth while if serious.

Will see what funds are left for the G Nose

 

Stage 1 - get it back going & sort suspension package with fairly standard L28 c/w triples

 

Stage 2 - save $

 

Stage 3 - save $

 

Stage 4 - save $ :)

 

Stage 5 - press the go button on a tough bottom end & custom inlet/throttle bodies/dry sump system etc

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UPDATE

 

Engine transfer completed...headers on with other works planned to be complete this month to hopefully give the car to my auto sparkie to fire up! :)

post-3174-144023805687_thumb.jpg

post-3174-144023805695_thumb.jpg

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Front of the car is almost complete...now for the changeover of rear components.

 

Trial fit of exhaust has been done...my old tarmac car system fitted perfectly (well almost anyway) ;).

 

Surprised how close the secondaries ran to Arizona sump

post-3174-144023806497_thumb.jpg

post-3174-144023806507_thumb.jpg

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Love the evil green effect, this is going to be one of the cars to beat for sure. It will be all up to the driver now :D

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Love the evil green effect, this is going to be one of the cars to beat for sure. It will be all up to the driver now :D

Thanks Richard SNR

 

Driver very "rusty" :)

 

Will be good to have fun sorting car on track again...not too much power so will make me sort out suspension tune! ;)

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UPDATE ON PROGRESS...

 

Slow going but the car has its new custom driveshaft, all fluids are now in & fitted FRP bonnet with carbon wrap :)

 

Anyone got a spare FRP or Carbon bonnet they want to part with?

 

Otherwise I guess I will order one from Topstage... :)

 

Some recent photos attached...

 

post-101840-0-74132600-1449387911_thumb.jpgpost-101840-0-91006100-1449388002_thumb.jpgpost-101840-0-32968200-1449388118_thumb.jpgpost-101840-0-66534600-1449388226_thumb.jpg

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Very nice looking car, and I don't normally like green cars - your car is the exception.

 

Cheers

 

PB

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Very nice looking car, and I don't normally like green cars - your car is the exception.

 

Cheers

 

PB

Thanks...we have to try & keep a good selection of colours alive 8)

 

 

 

It looks just as good in the flesh!

 

Thanks :)

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Getting closer...

 

Steering column attached

 

items to complete are as follows:

final fit drivers seat,

install harness,

connect igition system & fuel systems - then START THE BASTARD! >:D post-101840-0-77060900-1450595057_thumb.jpgpost-101840-0-30739000-1450595217_thumb.jpg

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Cannot believe another 6 months has gone!

 

Managed to roll car out of the shed & now up on a hoist to get some attention...

 

Hopefully it will get a run on the race track before the year is out! :)

 

post-101840-0-21933500-1466230903_thumb.jpgpost-101840-0-32797100-1466230949_thumb.jpg

 

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