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Yo-Yo

Proud new owner :) Imported 1976 Fairlady

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Andy, sorry to hear you have been having electrical issues, but It gives me consolation I'm not the only one going through it at the moment hehehe

I had a bit of a play around with the fusible links after work... took a better visual photo

20140630_183051800x450_zps506df765.jpg

Black cable: okay being black cable I'm assuming it's just the earth/negative? When I pulled out the connector all the electrics turned off. I can still start the car but I'm assuming that's because there is still a bit of juice in the alternator?

 

Brown cable next to the Black cable: If i yank this connector I lose the radio, the antenna no longer goes up or down & I can't crank the engine

 

Brown cable next to the Green cable: I don't seem to lose anything when I pull the connector, could this be the headlights?

 

Green cable: The engine cranks but won't start, the handbrake light goes off

 

I tried swapping the connectors between the links, all the cables are working fine so I don't think it's the cables themselves.

I found a pretty detailed wiring diagram in a 260z fsm but it's spread over 6 pages & really difficult to follow.

So I'm still stuck at square one I have no idea if it's the fusible links, the switch or the headlight plugs (ruling the last one out as both side hi & low beam don't work).

 

I'll invest in a multimeter next but I might have to get an auto sparky involved as I'm well & truly stumped :(

 

photo evidence that the headlights were working when I first got the car hahah

20140627_182019800x511_zps61dc4de5.jpg

 

I was hoping to get this baby rego'd by the weekend but looks like it will need to be delayed a bit, I work monday to friday... really should chuck a sickie from work to get this sorted :P

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When I had my 260, the healights would cut out intermittently, found out the fusible links were fine, just the spade terminals had corroded. Squeeze them flat a bit with a pair of pliers and then re connect. To check, switch your headlights on, then play with the links. If still no go, check for faulty fuses as some look okay, but are broken behind the metal end caps. It's always easier to check the easy to get parts before you have to remove steering wheel covers etc.

Headlight switches are pretty comon so that can be the last check.

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wiring_zps78fe68f2.jpg

found a much more simple diagram in another part of the fsm.

 

so far I replaced all the fuses with new ones. Still no joy

as per my previous post I played around with the fusible links, interchanged the cables to see if it was a dud cable but they all worked when swapping them in, all electrics are fine except the hi & low beams won't come on at all. I'll try cleaning up the spade terminals.

 

My next step is to get myself a multimeter to check if voltage is getting to where it needs to go. Do I test for resistance with the DMM or is there a particular setting I need to have it on?

 

Anything else I should try & troubleshoot before calling in an expert?

 

Cheers for all the feedback & help so far, it's much appreciated!

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Guess who's got their headlights back  ;D

20140701_201804-Copy800x599_zps8a3daa22.jpg

It's the damndest thing... I was sitting in the car scratching my head about what to check next, just out of sheer co-incidence I played around with the indicator stalk. I bumped it backwards & the headlights came back on, when I pull it back towards me the lights cut out so something is still wrong but I'm just glad I have my headlights back!

 

Fingers crossed no issues come up with blueslip but I'm confident it should be ok. Hopefully I will have it rego'd this weekend or next weekend at the latest!

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Probably some dodgy connection in the stalk itself, perhaps pull it apart and apply contact cleaner.

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get some deoxit contact cleaner from jaycar and clean all the contacts and stuff in the switch.

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Check for dry or cracked solder joints. I had the same problem with my indicators.

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Cheers guys will do.  :)

Might have to dig out my old soldering iron, I know it's somewhere in the mess that is my shed ;)

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Bunnings do a cracking dual wattage one for like $30, red with a switch on the side highly recommend it.

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Bit of an update:

Took the car to the engineer today for certification to state that the car meets the ADR's of 1976. As the car is imported from overseas this is required before I can go for a blueslip inspection which will allow me to rego the car in NSW.

 

There are emissions requirement for 1976 period but as my car has factory efi running gear for emissions & basically bone stock the engineer wasn't concerned. If the car was modified then it might have made the inspection more complicated.

All the car needs now for certification is ADR compliant seatbelts & a tyre placard in English.

 

Driving it back home the engine was mis-firing periodically in the lower rev range & the idle was a bit rough but it seemed to go away as I got closer to home. I'll double check the gaps on the spark plugs I put in, for a stock L series motor should the gaps be 0.8? I bought NGK BP6ES.

I might give the distributor cap a clean up. Anything else I should check?

 

Also the window washer hose was hard as rock & the plastic t-piece was broken so I popped down to bunnings for new 5mm hosing. Had to find a new t-piece at Repco as bunnings didn't have anything suitable.

20140705_155219640x626_zps45fef87a.jpg

20140705_160542640x360_zps5eaa1d78.jpg

 

If all goes to plan she should be road registered by next weekend :)

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Do you know if your car had electronic ignition? Take a photo of the distributor if you can with cap removed.

 

If they develop slack in the shaft they arc out causing a slight miss.

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20140705_234123595x800_zps8f9b69a3.jpg

20140705_234058682x800_zps9c1e33ea.jpg

 

Just popped out to the garage to take some pics, I'll have a better look tomorrow during the day when it's not freezing hehe

 

all the leads are fine, nothing fouled or broken at the connection

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Interesting that has the Mitsubishi stamp on it. I've got 1 of those distributors also but they are different to the common E12 module found on 280zx's etc..

 

And to be honest I've not seen those style very often at all. So parts for it might be harder to find.

 

The only real way to know if the distributor is wonky is to pull it off and see if there is play, but you'll want a spare gasket before you do that.

 

I can try dig mine out of the garage and shoot a short video of it to compare?

 

But are you sure it is an electrical misfire? Could it be injectors or air flow meter?

 

FWIW I don't think that distrubtor is driven by a crank angle sensor but I don't know the JDM models like yours that well to be 100% certain?

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I had a bit of a play with it but didn't want to go too far as I imagine trying to source a replacement is a pita.

I was surprised to see a mitsubishi logo inside too, although I used to own a 2007 V36 skyline & that had airflow meters stamped nissan-Renault hahah.

 

I'll open up the air flow meter next as it might need a clean, going by the air filter that came with the car there might be a bit of crap hiding in there.

 

Speaking of the air filter bought a K&N filter to replace the filthy stock paper filter. It wasn't a direct fit in the airbox, I had to trim one of the rubber edges to get it to fit but it still makes a complete seal inside the airbox.

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All I can say is wow, what a difference a clean & high flowing filter makes to these old engines, the engine automatically felt stronger & much better throttle response. I put K&N filters in my old cars & it made a little bit of difference to throttle response but this is night & day.

 

Had a closer look at my indicator switch, one of the wires is exposed. I could splice in a replacement wire but I might just get a whole new indicator assembly for better insurance down the track. I still technically have hi-beam functionality via the 'pass' button so hopefully it won't be an issue for my blueslip inspection.

20140706_143928800x652_zpsea9f588b.jpg

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RE the distributor on that Fairlady, last of them I saw the ignitor module was mounted on the passenger side kick panel. It was a largeish black box with another Mitsubishi symbol on it. A lot of bizarre electrical items on that zed!

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Regarding your distributor here is a thread I started a while ago on this type.

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=935.0

 

It looks the same as the 1 I have.

 

It can develop a mis if there is slack/play in the distributor shaft, but only way to test is remove it and give it a wiggle like you would a turbo for excessive play.

 

In the second photo I posted you can see the 'base plate' and the shaft has a wheel with teeth on it (like cogs). If those touch it will arch and cause a misfire. So the shaft should not have enough play in it to touch that base plate at any point in it's rotation.

 

Do you hear a slight miss at idle? Like every so often it sputters? Does it still misfire at higher rpm or misfire in a way that is noticeable?

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Ever since I replaced the air filter the car has been running smooth as, no misfire or anything.

I won't know for sure until I take it out on the open road again when I take it back to the engineer.

 

It only came up driving back from the engineer last weekend, it would misfire at about 2,000-3,000 rpm at accel & decel but it was intermittent.

 

I noticed too my idle revs drop by about 500rpm when I am pressing on the brakes for eg. stopped at a red light, so I might need to check the grounding as I'm losing power when the brake lights are on

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They only idle at 800rpm so if it's 500rpm it would pretty much stop it.

 

 

The idle will drop when you stand on the brakes as it pulls vacuum out of the engine.

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mine idles at around 900-1krpm, drops to around 600 rpm when applying the brakes. I noticed when driving back from the engineer that it would drop to around 500rpm & the engine would shake like it was on the edge of stalling. It's only gotten that like once so far & that was on the road.

I've been idling it in the driveway to test it every night after work & it seems fine for now

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Got the engineer certificate after having the seatbelts changed to ADR complied belts.

 

Took it to the blueslip inspection & had to get new tyres put on.

I also need to get the brake booster fixed, but I'm buying a 280zx brake booster & 15/16 master cylinder from a member on here.

I've done some googling & apparently it should be a direct fit as long as the booster is mounted upside down but I could only find a few posts, nothing concrete.

My car is basically the same as an Aus delivered '76 260z. Can anyone confirm this or provide a link to someone who has had this done?

 

I bought the bigger master cylinder as I am planning on getting 4 piston fronts & convert to rear discs so I may as well replace the current one with that rather than get it fixed

 

I've attached photos of my brake booster

20140712_155857800x450_zpsdb61f289.jpg

20140712_155904800x450_zpsbd43526b.jpg

 

Once the booster issue is fixed she'll be all road legal :)

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Got the engineer certificate after having the seatbelts changed to ADR complied belts.

 

Took it to the blueslip inspection & had to get new tyres put on.

I also need to get the brake booster fixed, but I'm buying a 280zx brake booster & 15/16 master cylinder from a member on here.

I've done some googling & apparently it should be a direct fit as long as the booster is mounted upside down but I could only find a few posts, nothing concrete.

My car is basically the same as an Aus delivered '76 260z. Can anyone confirm this or provide a link to someone who has had this done?

 

I bought the bigger master cylinder as I am planning on getting 4 piston fronts & convert to rear discs so I may as well replace the current one with that rather than get it fixed

 

I've attached photos of my brake booster

20140712_155857800x450_zpsdb61f289.jpg

20140712_155904800x450_zpsbd43526b.jpg

 

Once the booster issue is fixed she'll be all road legal :)

 

I have a 77 with a 15/16 master and booster from 280zx fitted upside down. You just have to bend the hard lines slightly (with your hands) for it to fit. I believe both S1 and S2 280z parts will fit, one upside down, one not. I also have the hilux front and r31 rear and it works a treat.

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thanks mate, good to know.  :)

Lots of info out there but not as easy to filter what would be relevent in my situation. Co-incidentally I found out the dodgy booster might also be the reason for my rough idle when applying the brakes so hopefully it fixes two issues at once haha.

 

How hard is it to remove the booster? Do I just undo the bolts on the master cylinder & the bolts on the brake pedal brackets? Any other steps or is there a how to posted online?

 

Thanks again everyone  ;D

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it's not that hard just a bit awkward inside , probably easier to take m/cyl off, but if you don't want mess leave the pipes connected and move m/cyl forward off booster. then jump inside remove the pin that connects the rod to the pedal, there are four nuts holding the booster to the firewall after you get them all off, back out to the front and remove the booster

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cheers mate, thought as much. I might just replace the booster myself for now as it seems pretty straight forward.

I won't know for sure until I get the other booster in the mail but from the pics they actually look identical. Will be interesting once it arrives so I can compare..

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