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DreamZproject

Cheap Chinese replica rims.

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Hey guys, looking at some cheap Chinese replica rims at the moment. They seem to be fairly well rated! They claim that they have a SFI, TUV, VIA, TSE and ECE rating, and the company (Sainobo Group) i have heard manufacturer the some of the Lenso rims. What do we think? Also if i were to get 16x9" rims (obviously for flares) what offset should i be looking at? Is -20 about right?

 

I'd be interested to see what everyone thinks.

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Some are good, some not so good.

Have go at Google Images - "alloy wheel failures" to see what can wrong, scary stuff.

 

I wouldn't do it, but that is just my 2 cents.

 

Cheers

 

PB

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I realise that there are a lot of those "cheap alloy rim disasters" but in reality, this happens even to the good ones! Most of the time these rims have had some form of serious trauma first, then some wally takes it out to the track and then just blames it on the "shitty construction". But yes, I know that I am increasing that risk, but if the rims have all the ratings they claim they have, surely they can't be that bad?

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I realise that there are a lot of those "cheap alloy rim disasters" but in reality, this happens even to the good ones! Most of the time these rims have had some form of serious trauma first, then some wally takes it out to the track and then just blames it on the "shiverty construction". But yes, I know that I am increasing that risk, but if the rims have all the ratings they claim they have, surely they can't be that bad?

Agree 100% so long as the manufacturer and supplier are credible and the wheels have actually been tested to that standard.

 

Yes I am overly cautious but I have seen auto parts that are sold as having met a standard or presented as a genuine product, fail, and when investigated properly turn out to fakes and not even close to the claimed standard.

 

If you have confidence in the supplier and that they will back the product if something goes wrong then that risk is reduced.

 

Did you have any particular rims in mind ?

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http://sainbogroup.en.alibaba.com/product/1598223450-213797430/new_replica_alloy_wheel_rim_Volk_TE37_003.html?edm_src=sys&edm_type=fdbk&edm_grp=0&edm_cta=read_msg&edm_time=realtime&edm_ver=e

 

Extremely reasonable price, even considering the shipping fees. The product looks good as far as i can tell from the pictures, they also produce a very large quantity of rims, so I guess they'd be more likely to be of better quality.

i have heard rumours that the might be one of the suppliers for Lenso...

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Interesting to note, some Chinese factories make rims for brand name distributors, and then make same rim, with very minor alteration, and sold into wholesale market, at much cheaper prices.

Where are Watanabes made?

 

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http://sainbogroup.en.alibaba.com/product/1598223450-213797430/new_replica_alloy_wheel_rim_Volk_TE37_003.html?edm_src=sys&edm_type=fdbk&edm_grp=0&edm_cta=read_msg&edm_time=realtime&edm_ver=e

 

Extremely reasonable price, even considering the shipping fees. The product looks good as far as i can tell from the pictures, they also produce a very large quantity of rims, so I guess they'd be more likely to be of better quality.

i have heard rumours that the might be one of the suppliers for Lenso...

So what size did you get a quote on and how much was a set incl postage?

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I don't know my personal preference is to avoid replica / clone made stuff. Like Bride Seats - I couldn't tell what is genuine vs fake so I didn't buy them. I went with Recaro's instead because I just don't trust my life to something like fake Brides.

 

With wheel I feel the same, it's not about brand snobbery - rather you pay for the name because you expect a certain quality.

 

I bought an Epiphone Guitar I thought was genuine for like 400 euro and it turned out it was a fake, probably made in the same factory but the quality of wood used (it was glued chipboard) was non-existent the action couldn't be fixed and it buzzed like 5 year old kids on Red Bull.

 

So even though it probably came from the same Chinese factory the quality was obviously not the same as the genuine article. You can save your money on many things but an item as critical as wheels, well I wouldn't.

 

Just my 2cents....

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Well DreamZproject I guess you can be the guinea pig for this one. I can remember when Rota's first came out heaps of people were posting pictures of shattered Rota's and saying they were crap. You still see alot of these sorts of posts for the "replica" HSV, FPV wheel forums, but what they neglected to show or state is how hard they hit the kerb/medium strip to cause the damage.

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I had Rota RB-R wheels and i thought they were excellent quality, not too heavy and looked great. I didn't manage to ram them into a gutters doing sick drifts, so i didn't get to test the strength.

 

 

That being said all Chinese wheels would not be created equally. The funny thing is this is all stemming from the OP is trying to do everything on the cheap again.

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Interesting to note, some Chinese factories make rims for brand name distributors, and then make same rim, with very minor alteration, and sold into wholesale market, at much cheaper prices.

Where are Watanabes made?

 

Watanabe wheels are made.in japan

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I had Rota RB-R wheels and i thought they were excellent quality, not too heavy and looked great. I didn't manage to ram them into a gutters doing sick drifts, so i didn't get to test the strength.

 

 

That being said all Chinese wheels would not be created equally. The funny thing is this is all stemming from the OP is trying to do everything on the cheap again.

 

And? Just because I don't like to drop 4k on wheels? I like to do things intelligently not just throw money at them. I mean this just for your own information Decoy, I respect your opinions as you are very knowledgeable, but I certainly don't respect you as a person, the way you go around scolding people and ridiculing people. Seriously I am more than happy to take your advice, but for the integrity of the site, can you please stop being such a jerk to people? So far on my car I have spent around 10k, I am personally doing (what was quoted at) 10k's worth of rust repair, and then I'll be dropping another 10k on paint. I'm sure there'll be at least another 5-10k on other bits and bobs. If I wasn't careful with how I'm spending my money this build could have easily cost me 50k.

 

Basically all I'm saying is I would like you to stop commenting on my posts unless you are posting useful information. Sorry if this offends you, I'm just bored of it.

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Oh yes, and back on topic.

 

I got a quote for 16x9's -20 offset (is that the ideal size?) which came to $360 for the rims and $400 for postage. It comes with these certificates;

 

SFI, TUV, VIA, TSE, ECE

 

and their factory is friggn MASSIVE which leads me to believe that their certificates are legit.

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Oh yes, and back on topic.

 

I got a quote for 16x9's -20 offset (is that the ideal size?) which came to $360 for the rims and $400 for postage. It comes with these certificates;

 

SFI, TUV, VIA, TSE, ECE

 

and their factory is friggn MASSIVE which leads me to believe that their certificates are legit.

 

So long as you satisfied, that is what really matters - and yes we all have a budget, some are just bigger than others  ;)

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The ones you are looking at are black so I guess that may make it easier to spot any potential problems. Look at the local tyre/wheel shops are full of this stuff so they can't be too bad? I was looking at tyres the other day and the shop was full of replica euro wheels like BMW, Audi, Merc etc. I run 16" watanabes and was considering a cheap set of 15's for shivers and giggles and saw set of these 15x7" work equip replicas from QLD for $650:

 

steven001hb8.jpg

 

go for it.

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Well I'm actually after that dark gold/ bronze colour. I guess like any other part on a car they should be periodically checked, and should I ever end up sliding into a gutter I'll make sure i throw them away! :P

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And? Just because I don't like to drop 4k on wheels? I like to do things intelligently not just throw money at them. I mean this just for your own information Decoy, I respect your opinions as you are very knowledgeable, but I certainly don't respect you as a person, the way you go around scolding people and ridiculing people. Seriously I am more than happy to take your advice, but for the integrity of the site, can you please stop being such a jerk to people? So far on my car I have spent around 10k, I am personally doing (what was quoted at) 10k's worth of rust repair, and then I'll be dropping another 10k on paint. I'm sure there'll be at least another 5-10k on other bits and bobs. If I wasn't careful with how I'm spending my money this build could have easily cost me 50k.

 

Basically all I'm saying is I would like you to stop commenting on my posts unless you are posting useful information. Sorry if this offends you, I'm just bored of it.

 

 

Did you even read my post or just the last sentence? Are you insinuating I have dropped $4k on wheels? Do you even know what wheels i have?

 

 

First off i was supporting the whole cheap wheel thing, saying that I had cheap wheels and they were OK, against what everyone was saying, supporting your side of the argument. And Rotas are cheap for the record they are $250 a wheel.

 

 

After spending all this time fixing the rust in your car, you would think it's a good idea to risk the car (not to mention yourself) on $360 worth of wheels? Seems like a pretty easy question to me and there are plenty of options sub $4k which were all given to you in the first wheel thread you started. I did give you a hard time in that thread because despite being told by multiple people who are very knowledgeable that it was a silly idea, you kept going with it despite being given viable alternative options. Again you were trying to cut costs rather than be realistic about what you can afford to build and do it in an unsafe and illegal way.

 

 

In your other thread about the seats, I gave you an almost bolt in LEGAL option for mounting the exact seats you want. I didn't even make a comment on how you want to illegally modify your seat mounts and how you said she'll be right unless i crash. Talk to Fairlady Z about that one and how insurance companies are... For the record i don't care in the slightest if you buy the seat rails we are making or not.

 

 

Most people on here who have restored their zeds have spent $50k and more. Maybe spending $30k on body work and paint isn't a great idea if you want to do all this other stuff but can't afford to do it. I had my first 260z 2+2 when i was 17, but it wasn't running flares, wide wheels and a big HP motor. It had an L26 with 240Z SUs and I spent $1k on paint and did the body work myself too, so yes i know where you are coming from.

 

 

I just had a look back and I contributed answered to several of your threads without saying anything negative at all, so quit with the butt hurt or maybe get your mum to write me a letter.

 

 

If anyone else feels victimized by me on the forum, please send me a PM with your address so i can post you a sorry card.

 

 

Anyway i need to go off to bed and cry myself to sleep because you don't respect me as a person now.

 

 

P.S. you can fudge right off telling me what I can post in sport ;)

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I'll say it again. Respect the knowledge, not the delivery. Anyway, moving on.

I'll have a look in to the seat rails, but I have a feeling that I'll modify the mounts and just get them engineered anyway.

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Having been a bit involved in racing, and rallying, there are most definately some rim designs/styles, that have shown up to be not up to the demands of motorspirt.

The thin spindly minimal number of centre hub spoke attachment points to the outer rim, type style, are an issue, be it genuine made, or non genuine.

The great majority of the rims made today, are made in China, or other near Asian countries.

This is so due to the low costs to do so, in comparison to manufacturing costs elsewhere, japan is no longer the "cheap" country, hasn't been for decades.

 

The same Chinese based factory will, in most instances make the same rim, but with different branding markings to differentiate between the "cheap" ones and the genuine branded ones.

Quite often, it is the cardboard box,, that is genuine branded. The rims inside are all the same.

 

Look for load rating stampings, ( not a paper peel off sticker), and the various Standards Approvals stampings.

 

I have three sets of brand new knock ff Watanabe R Types, cheap, the difference is, they dont have the 3W's stamped into them, and the box is plain cardboard.

The same factory makes them with the 3W's stamp, and puts them into a branded box.

The rest of the manufacturing/standards stampings, are the same, including load rating, of 650kg

( higher than the Australian made Superlight at 550kg !)

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SFI, TUV, VIA, TSE, ECE

 

I've previously owned some Driftek's, all the spokes weren't equal offset from the brake caliper which lead to a small chunk being taken out of one, but other than that they did the job...

 

FWIW it doesn't cost anything in China to claim to meet certificates or even put the relevant logo's into the parts. The only way to get close to trusting they actully even know how to meet the standards without going over there is if they make wheels for a reputable company as it appears you have tried to find out.

 

Then they are probably just saving costs by not destructively testing 1 out of every 20 wheels or whatever quality control system the 'brand name' ones enforce. It's all good and well to even have pictures of a nice factory, there's a chance it just means the guy knows someone who works there so managed to get some pictures of it while making wheels in his mum's shed.

 

Source: Part of my job is to outsource stuff to China. Last time I was there I was going to buy some Chinese carbon bike wheels, lets just say I didn't buy any...we also get SS stuff machined in China, and sometimes it rusts within a couple of weeks as the people we trust over there can't reliably source pure materials locally in the short leadtime we required, and someone in the supply line has decided they should save money by getting a one batch through his brother's cousin's sister and doesn't tell anyone...over there to control the quality you have to supervise every step of the process

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they dont have the 3W's stamped into them

 

Aren't these raised off the surface, so therefore part of the tool? Would likely have to see a part without powdercoat on it to see if there's a witness line from an insert.

 

Most companies don't let their logo's simply be an insert in the tool to try to prevent the same factory from using their tools to make knockoffs - there is ofcourse very little that can be done to stop them machining complete copy tools other than hoping they dont want to invest the money to do so.

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First off i was supporting the whole cheap wheel thing, saying that I had cheap wheels and they were OK, against what everyone was saying, supporting your side of the argument. And Rotas are cheap for the record they are $250 a wheel.

 

 

After spending all this time fixing the rust in your car, you would think it's a good idea to risk the car (not to mention yourself) on $360 worth of wheels?

 

To be fair, they're not $360 wheels, they're $360+400=$760 worth of wheels. The $250 a wheel Rota's didn't travel here for free.

 

Having been a bit involved in racing, and rallying, there are most definately some rim designs/styles, that have shown up to be not up to the demands of motorspirt.

The thin spindly minimal number of centre hub spoke attachment points to the outer rim, type style, are an issue, be it genuine made, or non genuine.

The great majority of the rims made today, are made in China, or other near Asian countries.

This is so due to the low costs to do so, in comparison to manufacturing costs elsewhere, japan is no longer the "cheap" country, hasn't been for decades.

 

The same Chinese based factory will, in most instances make the same rim, but with different branding markings to differentiate between the "cheap" ones and the genuine branded ones.

Quite often, it is the cardboard box,, that is genuine branded. The rims inside are all the same.

 

Look for load rating stampings, ( not a paper peel off sticker), and the various Standards Approvals stampings.

 

I have three sets of brand new knock ff Watanabe R Types, cheap, the difference is, they dont have the 3W's stamped into them, and the box is plain cardboard.

The same factory makes them with the 3W's stamp, and puts them into a branded box.

The rest of the manufacturing/standards stampings, are the same, including load rating, of 650kg

( higher than the Australian made Superlight at 550kg !)

 

That's a very good point in regards to the design of the rims/spokes making it more prone to failing. I love the look of these wheels (on a Holden, not a zed!):

 

138153d1333262818-ichris-vr-statesman-ve_gts_20-h.jpg

 

but it looks like it wouldn't take a hit well.

 

In regards to your "knock-off"watanbes, I could be wrong but I am pretty sure watanabes are made in Japan (Ben, confirm?), not China so I question your claim that they are made in the same factory. Or are you just saying that they are made in the same factory as the full BS fake watanabes with the three bird symbol?

 

Another question is why not just buy Rota RKR's if you wanted the watanabe type R look? Rota has a legitimate presence in Australia and an avenue should anything go wrong. I suppose if the size you need isn't available in Rota's.

 

Also, if you are racing with these wheels without any issues, that's good enough for me !

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That Holden? rim pictured above, looks to have good web support at the rear of each spoke, going back towards rim centre, may not be everyones cup of tea!

The DriftTek ? tE37? Five spoke only wheel, has very little "meat" where the spokes connect to the rim outer.

These get a hit, and they snap ff, leaving a fully inflated tyre on a rim, with no centrecheap ones? genuine ones? who knows?

The proper Watanabe rim dies are two piece, with the recessed bit, to give a finished rim a raised /embossed stamp.

I have some proper ones, and some knock ff ones, the web/wall thickness of the knock offs is thicker all around, with better spoke to rim webbed supports in behind spokes.

More than happy to race on both, and I do.

 

I also had some 8.2 kg SupaLites ( Supa Heavies !!) hub face back plunge cutted, and inner rim faces machined, in order to pull weight out, using a very well known wheel machine shop, got them down to 7.4 kilograms, and race on these.

The heaviest car they get used on is 1126kg

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To be fair, they're not $360 wheels, they're $360+400=$760 worth of wheels. The $250 a wheel Rota's didn't travel here for free.

 

 

But that's my point, because there is an Aus distributor who buys container loads of Rotas, most of the cost of them won't be freight. They also have an Australian company you can go to for warranty claims and is held accountable by Australian law...

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I'm sure the price I'm paying is similar to what Rota would pay (minus a bit of shipping and bulk discount). They just have the storefront and the Australian warranty and all.

Yes some rims I look at and think it's amazing that they can hold all that weight. I am not too worried with the TE37 design. It has some fairly thick spokes. I'd love to get a

set of Rota's, unfortunately they don't make any 16x9" rims :(

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