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PeterAllen

What to have plated?

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Finally getting on with some assembly. I've looked around and there doesn't appear to be too much which actually need electroplating. I'm only looking at items which were originally cad plated and I'm not running any Datsun engine/drivetrain/brakes.

 

Any suggestions on what I might be missing to send to the plater?

 

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A truck load of stuff from the engine bay, Pretty much everything was cad plated in there.

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The headlight backing plates?

The bonnet catch plate (are you running the OEM set up?)

The bonnet hinges were cad plated also.

Engine bay inspection light.

Horns

The Master and Clutch Cylinder Caps - better off just buying NOS for that though..

Voltage regulator? Probably not running that.

 

 

I can't recall if the dove-tails and rear hatch components were also cad plated.

 

Likewise I feel like the doors had several cad plated parts like window winders etc.. but you're GTO is using different doors right?

 

So given your GTO conversion I'm not sure what parts you're still using.

 

Who are you going to get the plating done through? I was looking at the DIY kits but not sure if it's worth giving them a go?

 

 

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I've done this a couple of times with Mustangs.

I use a 2L ice cream container, fill it with the various little parts, & the electroplating firm will put them into a tumbler for plating. Just make sure you know which part belongs where first, take photos & label same to be sure.

You should be able to choose from a range of finishes. Personally I don't like the original-style yellowy-rainbow colour of Datsun parts, looks thin & cheap to me, I prefer the colour 'blue-zinc'. But I've also had nickel done, looks more silver like chrome. So check out samples of their work first. Depending on the chosen metal & the condition of your parts so the price will vary.

From experience make sure that your parts are pretty darn clean to start with; great gobs of well-stuck underseal & paint & dried grease & somesuch can be quite difficult for the dip process to remove & that will affect the quality & cost of the job.

If your parts are rusty then the process will remove the rust & coat the good metal so don't be disappointed if you end up with pitting where the rust once was. If in doubt then find parts in better condition to start with. The new coating will be just like fresh paint & highlight any flaws unfortunately.

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Thanks Gavin but I don't have any of those items on my car.

 

Gilltech - Thanks for the tip on preparing the parts, I had assumed (!) the plater would prepare them so I'll now have to clean them up.

 

I want to keep the 'bling' to a minimum so I've painted most items and I only want to plate these because they are retained by bolt, nut or clip and the paint would be removed when they were fitted.

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Even if you have parts that should be plated yet you won't be fitting them to your Zed get them plated anyway. It won't add much to the cost and you can sell them as individual parts.

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Gilltech - Thanks for the tip on preparing the parts, I had assumed (!) the plater would prepare them so I'll now have to clean them up.

 

I didn't so much as think about cleaning any of the parts I had done & it turned out great. Did a whole cars worth in about two buckets (headlight cones and all)

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Does anyone know if rubber/plastic components can be retained on items while they are plated - Zinc plating with yellow passivating?

 

I know the striker plates for the door latches have rubber pads riveted to them and I believe the headlight cones also have plastic clips which are apparently fixed to the cone

 

I'm going to ask the plater but I wondered if anyone had experience with this?

 

 

Edit - Oops, I've just discovered that the rubber buffer in the striker plate can be removed.

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The stripping solution will soften or dissolve non-metal parts. And even if some remnants remain they will shield the metal behind from getting a proper even coating. So no, you have to separate all the components. And the dirtier the parts are initially the longer they will need to be immersed, the more the man's solution gets contaminated, & so the man will want to charge you more. So clean up the parts yourself & inspect them closely for pitting etc, a fresh plating will highlight any defects & not conveniently fill them in.

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I didn't worry about doing my bits from under the car. They are only going to get dirty again so painted them. I bought a DIY plating kit but as yet haven't used it. But good to see your build progressing.

Peter. ;)

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I bought a DIY plating kit but as yet haven't used it. But good to see your build progressing.

Peter. ;)

 

I will be interested to see the results from your DIY kit.

Where did you get it from ? Cost ?

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I bought a DIY plating kit but as yet haven't used it.

 

Please keep us informed, I have been looking at Yellow Cad Kits also, but wondering if I'll just outsource.

 

As per discussion here: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,13841.msg155310.html#msg155310

 

@Peter - you mentioned the discoloration is more obvious in photos (I totally get that, given my steering wheel and center console resto thread and various other things I've done on the car the flash / photo makes certain things look different).

 

I'm wondering though did you discuss this with the plater? Is this something that can be adjusted controlled in the process? I'd like to go with a yellow as can be look if that's possible?

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...

I'm wondering though did you discuss this with the plater? No, I wasn't aware it would be an issue

Is this something that can be adjusted controlled in the process? I don't know  ...

 

Cozza had some done at Alexandria recently so he might like to chime in with his experience.

 

I only had the plating done because I thought paint would come off a painted surface when they were re-attached to the car. If I did it again I would go for the aluminium/silver passivating rather than the yellow/gold as I'm after function not appearance - unlike yourself and George I'm not doing a restoration.

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Hey Fellas

Yeah I was after the original look so went with the yellow passivating finish.

I have painted lots of these type of parts in the past but the paint gets damaged once you tighten a bolt or slide a clip onto them.

It does have a bit of the rainbow effect but nothing I'm concerned by.

I blasted all my parts except the fuel rail (wouldn't fit in the cabinet) You can see the pitting as mentioned above.

I had no problem with the plastic and rubber parts, they are as good as before they went in.

Generally I'm happy with the outcome and the service I got from Alexandria Plating.

Got a beer carton full of stuff done plus a ice cream container full of nuts bolts and clips for $80. I don't know about others but I was surprised it was so cheap.

 

Mick

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I blasted all my parts except the fuel rail (wouldn't fit in the cabinet) You can see the pitting as mentioned above.

 

 

Mick, did you polish any of them or are they all just blasted and then plated? Do the same guys do the blasting?

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Yeah Gav, that's them.

George, I did the blasting at home in my Supercheap cabinet.

No polishing just straight out of the blaster and off to the plater.

 

Mick

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George, I did the blasting at home in my Supercheap cabinet.

 

Hi Mick

 

I have been thinking about geting a media blasting cabinet, have you been happy with yours ?

 

Cheers

 

PB

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Hi Mick

I have been thinking about geting a media blasting cabinet, have you been happy with yours ?

 

+1 I've been thinking about it also.

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Listen here you Gen Ys, I know he who dies with the most toys wins, but, consider how much use you will really have for a media blast cabinet against the initial cost, including media, the space it will take up and object size limitations, the mess, etc etc. Compare all these against the cost of paying to have it done on an 'as needs' basis.

 

A wire brush and elbow grease can achieve 85% of what you will need done.

 

Here is my set up!

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That's ghetto Peter. I love it. I picked up a Sher Shopmate, (all you old DIY'ers ought to know what that is) which has a fantastic 50+ year old drill and still going strong. Need to restore the 'table saw'.

 

4e70U7m.jpg

 

I've got a bench grinder converted to a buffing machine which ought to do most of what I need.

 

On the media blaster, found this old thread from Mick: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=12916.0

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Hahaha. Peter you're a cracker.

I have used the cabinet a lot over the last couple years and am glad I have it.

It does take up a lot of room which is a bit of a hassle but worth it in my opinion.

George good find on that thread, as I mentioned I started with Supercheap media, it was slow to use and messy. On recommendations for that thread I got some garnet which was much more effective and no mess. Much better.

The other issue I had was the filter of the cabinet blocks very easily, I ended up removing the filter and plugging my vacuum on in place of the filter. Again massive improvement, the vac keeps the dust down in the cabinet so you can see what's going on.

I have to replace the plastic on the viewing window every couple hours of use but that's cheap and easy.

It's a bit like having a ute, once your mates know you have one......

Your welcome to come round and give it a run if you like, just drop me a pm.

 

Internal dimensions are about 700x500x400 at a guess, (just too small to fit the original 240z fuel rail in.) I'm sure you could find the dimensions on the Supercheap website.

 

Mick

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