FuzzyDropbear Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 G'day guys, I'm going to begin painting my shell sometime in the near future (haven't sprayed before, haven't got gear yet). But I was wondering what you guys recommend for rust prevention in terms of an undercoat for the body? Also is there anything I can apply to the hard to reach sections of the body (ie: inside of rear 1/4, inside of sills and around that area) which would hopefully prevent rust from starting in the usual places? Cheers guys, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 I recommend 'Penatrol'. Fishoil works well to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aegean Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 POR 15, and Tectyl. Both can be sprayed on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JP Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 Any good 2 part epoxy primer will be fine. I wouldnt use POR15 on the exterior as it is not overly sandable, fine on the interior and underbody though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzyDropbear Posted October 11, 2007 Author Share Posted October 11, 2007 Thanks for the replies! I have a few more questions. So, from what I've read, I take it Penatrol is just for 'refreshing' old paint jobs? Not sure as of yet whether I will be taking it back to bare metal as I like the red it currently has on it. Would I be better off using a good 2 part epoxy primer, tectyl, or are they virtually the same? What about the interior? Is POR15 the better product to use? Or again, are they all the same? What I'm worried about is, I've found the beginnings of rust along the welds where new sills were put in. This is the sort of thing I'm hoping to eliminate or minimize for as long as possible. Especially in those places where, once I put the interior back together I won't be able to see (ie: inside of rear 1/4 panel). I was thinking of just painting these places with a brush as it would be easier to paint than with the gun (I imagine). Will this do? or is there a better option? Cheers guys, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warrenz Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 For the interior or the bits you won't see and therefore won't be painting over then I would use POR15. I used POR15 for the floor pans, the underside, inside the new door skins I fitted etc. It paints very well with a brush, it looked like a spray job on the floor pans and door skins. It is UV sensitive so if you use it where it will be exposed you need to paint over it. Follow the instructions. It is not cheap paint, approx $80 for 1 litre of POR15, plus the other preparation stuff, but if it is as good as people say then it is money well spent. I'll give you an update in 10 years time Warren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzyDropbear Posted October 12, 2007 Author Share Posted October 12, 2007 I'll give you an update in 10 years time lol. We'll be waiting for that update Thanks for that. Think I'll run with the POR15 on all the interior bits and pieces, people seem to have a very positive view of it. Even if it's $80/L, that's a lot cheaper than having to pull the car apart to cut out bits and weld in new bits further down the track. I was looking at fishoil in the shops today, it's a bit cheaper than POR15 from what I saw. Is there much of a difference in rust prevention between the two? Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt drago Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 If you are looking at fishoil, have a look at another product produced/manufactured by the same guys that do POR-15. It is called SW2. The main difference between this and fishoil is that it completely cures and will not go soft again. I used to use fishoil, but the cars used to get a might bit stinky in the hot days of summer. Also, with the POR-15, don't you have to apply that to bare metal for it to protect against rust the best? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzyDropbear Posted October 16, 2007 Author Share Posted October 16, 2007 lol. Hmmm, thanks for that mate, didn't realize fish oil would go stinky.... Found out that POR15 shouldn't be applied over any "rust coverter" products. So that's basically me out. lol. I got stuck into the rusty spots on the weekend with rust coverter. haha. Oh well, might be able to brush it up with a wire brush and paint over... or try one of the other products. Thanks once again guys! Cheers, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt drago Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 There was a product that you were supposed to use prior to using POR-15, I think it was a prep wash or something, again, made by the same people that make POR-15. It was a blue coloured liquid that you would clean the metal with, wash it off and then dry the metal before painting. Info should be on their website about it. Good luck Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzyDropbear Posted October 16, 2007 Author Share Posted October 16, 2007 Yeah, I read their website. If I end up using POR15 then it might not adhere very well as I've already applied a rust coverter compound to the car. Have to think about it some more Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod F Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 I'm currently using a rust converter that you allow to dry, then wipe over with rags damped in methylated spirits, then water, then wax/grease remover. The converter leaves no traces of rust (no red colour left, just grey steel) and the 3-stage wiping removes all traces of converter (you'd think at least) Maybe that'd work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzyDropbear Posted October 17, 2007 Author Share Posted October 17, 2007 Thanks Rod. The one I've used, you just brush on and leave to dry and don't need to remove it. I'm pretty sure I'll be able to get it off again using some metho, grease remover and some scrubbing. The bottle says that you can just prime over the top of it, so I might just wire brush it back a bit. Should work. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anth Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 just something about the por 15 product it works by sealing the rust but you must prime when still tacky or it wont stick just flake off. good luck sanding this stuff when dry too! Remember it's uv sensitive so sunlight will break it down............I recommend it over any rust convertor simply because of the trace elements most rust convertors leave behind,that leach into the steel seams/scale and cause rust later thru acid etching......most convertors are little more than battery acid and we know what that does to steel. You can't convert rust into metal as rust is the process of irons oxide atoms in steel breaking down with oxygen all your doing is cleaning the surface ,unless it's sealed from oxygen/moisture which air has it will continue to rust, por works by being able to bond to rusted surfaces reducing further breaking down by elimanating oxygen hope this helps Anthony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Boy Posted November 2, 2007 Share Posted November 2, 2007 I've used Por15 and Rust Bullet and I prefer the Rust Bullet as it seems to have better adhesion and is simpler to use. http://www.rustbullet.com/ Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzyDropbear Posted November 2, 2007 Author Share Posted November 2, 2007 You can't convert rust into metal as rust is the process of irons oxide atoms in steel breaking down with oxygen all your doing is cleaning the surface ,unless it's sealed from oxygen/moisture which air has it will continue to rust, por works by being able to bond to rusted surfaces reducing further breaking down by elimanating oxygen Yeah, i understand that, that's why I'm going to use some rust prohibitor product over the top to protect it from moisture etc. Thanks for the info Charlie, I'll go have a look at Rust Bullet when I get a few spare minutes. Thanks for all the help guys! I appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kent Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 The POR is menat to have 2 (or more) coats applied to fill any microscopic holes that are left after the 1st application. my question is, from bare metal, should the 1st coat be applied, then bog, then the 2nd coat (sealing the bog in effect).. or should you do both coats, then bog? what sort of primer should be used while the 2nd coat of por is still wet? presumably then you use a high build primer over the top? also, if you are at bare matal stage, should you por the body (including rust areas) -which probably stupidly, i did, then grind the rust areas back for repair? or por everything but the rust, repair then por the rusted section? I also found that some of the areas on the car (in my case a 240K), the POR didn't adhere too well in some areas, and within a year, new worms of rust appeared beneath the por.. the por guys think that those areas affected weren't prepared properly, but i didn't do those areas any different to the parts that stuck (strip, wash, metal ready, wash, marine clean, wash then por).. anyway.. i am going to go over the whole car looking for the tell tale signs that the por didn't stick, scrape it off (lifts really easily), re treat then re por. this is my first restore.. so it is a bit of a learning curve.. and i want to get it right before i start on my 240Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zedevan Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 one of the things I liked about the sounds of rust bullet over por is the lack of preparation, meaning they can't blame it being done 'incorrectly' as the reason for the product not working. In regards to bog, I'd go get some epoxy resin filler from a marine supplier as they as made for areas below the water line, so do not absorb moisture, and have the added bonus of being less brittle. Then in this case there is no need to por over the top of the bog (logically, and as far as I'm aware) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kent Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 i agree about the rust bullet.. i would certainly use that in hard to reach areas rather than por.. especially for frame rails etc.. you just can't immerse those areas properly with marine clean and metal ready (and wash it out cleanly etc.) i would certainly consider using it instead throughout the 240Z when i do it (which i guess would be straight after blasting, rather than having it primed). as for the problem with this type of product making it hard to repair.. i am not so sure.. por's paint stripper will remove it, and it isn't THAT hard to sand through with an RO (though not ideal).. sure it may add an extra step to the repair process.. but the repair isn't your average camry bolt on new guard repair anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbscobraZ Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Por15 is very popular but you can't get it off if you have an accident then new panels and crap. Rust bullet is fantastic but use extensively don't hold back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kent Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 i would say that.. i just spent last weekend stripping a few panels of por.. sure it takes a little while.. but the paint stripper they sell works pretty well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbscobraZ Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 really from what I've heard its hard maybe they were talking about under body. Oh well still would go rust bullet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedback Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 Started doing my 240z, it's posted in the projects section. Using por15 on all unexposed surfaces as already suggested. Have used it successfully in the past. I just brush it on. It seems to come off easily with a stripper disc too. After wire brushing I did hit the rust with a phosphoric acid based rust converter, the type you wash off. Best of luck with your Z, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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