Administrators gav240z Posted December 24, 2013 Author Administrators Share Posted December 24, 2013 Gav, if you don't mind I'd have them for a site donation. I'm planning to get another 70's or 80's runaround. I haven't been visiting the site as much as I would like these days but has there been a Sydney meet lately? cheers, Mike. Yeah you can have them mate. I don't see myself using them to be honest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoota G Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 Nearly 10 pages and he's yet to do some work Can you tell the crew are excited ? Welcome to our world Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirpent Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 Do you know if those repros are plastic or metal John? Cheers Brab As far as I can tell, they are the real period McCoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HS30-H Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 Do you know if those repros are plastic or metal John? Just to lay this "plastic hubcaps" ( as seen in at least one "definitive" book on the Z.... ) thing to rest, both the 'D' hubcaps and the 'Z' hubcaps that followed them are made from pressed steel. The emblems in the centre of the hubcaps are plastic, but the hubcaps themselves are steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HS30-H Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 I also found this post on early hubcaps. http://jdm-car-parts.com/datsunnissan-original-detail/truth-about-d-hubcaps-on-early-240z-cars/ Gav, To be fair, that's something we have discussed - in some depth, with lots of photos - on classiczcars.com in the past. There's quite a lot of *early* car / early production stuff in the archives there. 'Kats' Endo brought a lot of early production ( and pre-production ) data - direct from Nissan Shatai - to the table. It cleared up a lot of USA-centric nonsense, but the people who want to see things one way still stick to their mantras. One of the things that the Nissan Shatai pre-production data clarified was this question of early HS30-prefixed cars. It turns out ( as expected by some of us, and not even wildly imagined by some... ) that the very first S30-series Z to be given a chassis number was a Japanese domestic market model: 'S30-00001'. This car was 'Factory Production Prototype 1'. This was in May 1969. 'Factory Production Prototype 2' was 'HLS30-00001' ( an LHD 'Export' market spec, but not necessarily a USA / Canada 'North American' market spec. This too was in May 1969. 'Factory Production Prototype 3' was 'PS30-00001', the first Fairlady Z 432 to be given a chassis number. This was in June 1969. Then in July 1969 a group of 4 'Primary Production Prototype' cars were made: These were 'HLS30-00002', 'S30-00002', 'PS30-00002' and 'HS30-00001'. This evidence of 'HS30-00001' being made so early in prototype / pre-production history was good news. It confirmed - irrevocably - what some of us had known all along; that RHD '240Z' models were part of the original plan and the design and engineering of the S30-series Z range took this into account. It wasn't some kind of 'afterthought', as the nay-sayers wanted us to believe. Of course it should go without saying that RHD S30-series Zs ( in the form of the Japanese market models ) were part of the plan from the outset, but some don't want to hear that either.... In August 1969 Nissan Shatai made a further 7 'Primary Production Prototype' cars and issued them with chassis numbers. They were 'S30-00003', 'S30-00004', 'S30-00005', 'PS30-00003', 'HLS30-00003', 'S30-00006' and 'PS30-00004'. By the end of 1969, Nissan Shatai had made a total of 1,512 S30-series Zs. Of these 1,512 chassis-numbered cars, 969 of them were Japanese 'Domestic' market models ( Fairlady Z, Fairlady Z-L, Fairlady Z 432 and Fairlady Z 432-R ), and 543 of them were 'Export' spec cars. It should be noted that this 'Export' spec included both LHD and RHD cars, and that the LHD cars were not all USA / Canada / 'North American Market' cars..... We are pretty sure that 'HS30-00002' and 'HS30-00003' were amongst those 543 'Export' spec cars built before the end of 1969, but they were almost certainly not released for sale to the general public. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sydney mike Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 What car are you looking for Mike? No Sydney meet lately. Should do something in the new year though. I'll rock up in my Fiesta. Not sure yet George, I was planning on two wheels but the missus put that to rest. Something under $4k and rear wheel drive. Not necessarily Japanese. Yeah you can have them mate. I don't see myself using them to be honest. Cheers Gav now you're in Sydney looking forward to meeting up. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted January 7, 2014 Author Administrators Share Posted January 7, 2014 So in my attempt to get something done today I decided I would see if I could turn the engine by hand. I first had to remove a clutch fan that had rusted itself in place. I finally removed it though. Then slotted a ratchet over the main crank bolt and tried to rotate the motor. I was using a large breaker bar and it was moving very slowly. Mind you I couldn't really tell if it was the motor moving or me rounding off the main crank bolt. I think the former though. I was turning clockwise by the way. I didn't have the spark plugs removed but they are all loosely screwed in. Would it be worth removing them all and trying again? I couldn't really move it without the breaker bar just using a ratchet. It has been a few weeks since I hit the gym though. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d3c0y Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Not hard to unscrew the plugs and check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted January 7, 2014 Author Administrators Share Posted January 7, 2014 Not hard to unscrew the plugs and check. Fair point really, it was getting late so I packed it in and had dinner. Will try again tonight. I was told the motor is seized, so far I'd believe it. In other news I discovered something positive, it appears the diamond vinyl trans and strut cover material is still in the car! I was never so glad to have a lazy auto-trimmer who didn't remove the old ones, just glued the shag carpet over the top. I removed the fuse cover and was like, what? Diamond vinyl? Then I slowly peeled this off. To reveal... So I might be able to use these as a template to get replica's made? I am hoping the shag pile carpet helped protect the original trim over the years. In other news I also salvaged these engine hooks off my old L24 when I was in Melbourne so I could easily remove the engine block. These are missing on 98% of Z-cars I've seen. I wonder if there is interest in getting them replicated? Perhaps we could powder coat them or finish them for a bit of engine bay dressing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro Z Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 Yeah remove the sparkplugs so the pistons aren't compressing and use a proper hex 27mm? socket with a long pipe on your breaker bar. If you are not sure if its the crank turning or its the socket slipping. Find a cylinder with the piston near TDC by putting a screwdriver through the sparkplug hole and recheck to see if the piston has lowered or risen after turning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brabham Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 Sounds like the engine is seized Gav if you are putting that much force on it, looks like it will need a rebuild. Wondering if anyone has tried to remove the engine and trans as one unit as in the factory manual or is separating them recommended? I thought Revzed was doing the diamond vinyl a while ago or knew where to get it? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted January 8, 2014 Author Administrators Share Posted January 8, 2014 Sounds like the engine is seized Gav if you are putting that much force on it, looks like it will need a rebuild. Wondering if anyone has tried to remove the engine and trans as one unit as in the factory manual or is separating them recommended? I thought Revzed was doing the diamond vinyl a while ago or knew where to get it? Cheers I've removed gearbox and engine as 1 unit before. This time though I'll just remove the engine I think. I've started reading the how to rebuild your L-series book. Not sure if I'll use the N42 head I have in Melbourne or E31 on it yet. I don't have a P90 anymore unfortunately it was 'stolen' from me by a certain individual a few years ago. I thought an engine shop still had it, but they informed me a certain individual picked it up and also owes the engine shop money. RE: Vinyl there is quite a few places offering a kit. I've found some for $260 + Shipping. I was just looking at options to get a kit recreated, but not sure the savings will be all that much to be honest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted January 8, 2014 Author Administrators Share Posted January 8, 2014 So yesterday I pulled all the plugs out and tried again, same result really. I could only get it to move a fraction with a massive breaker bar about a meter long. I'm sure I've turned over an L-series before with far less pressure. So I bolted up the engine removal hooks and I'm going to pull it out. Anybody in NSW got an engine stand + crane / cherry picker I could borrow for a while? As tempting as it is to throw a second hand motor in it and say bobs your tea pot I want to learn how to rebuild an L-series and give it a go. The only thing that is going to be hard is to resist the temptation to modify it while it's apart. I am going for a refresh rather than modified performance engine to stick with my budget build theme. Once it's back on the road - after the rust repairs. I'll consider pulling it out and going a bit more crazy with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riceburner Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 Sounds a bit crap regarding the P90, that's at least a few hundred dollars your now missing through no fault of yours. You could try boiling some vinegar in a kettle a pouring a little in each cylinder through the plug holes. The acidic properties might free it up by dissolving the rust. If that doesnt work I'd back off the crank bolt before you pull it out, sounds like its going to be pretty tight. I can turn my motor over by hand, but that's with two hands turning on the 10" harmonic balancer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterAllen Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Don't even try to rotate it, you may score the bore and if it is already maximum oversize you may ruin the block, or at least be up for a set of oversize pistons. Patience grasshopper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipz Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Anybody in NSW got an engine stand + crane / cherry picker I could borrow for a while? Have an engine crane thats free at the moment, which you're welcome to use, but the stand is currently in use. Send me a PM if interested (in West Ryde area). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agno Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 WD40 those bores up the wazoo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cozza Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Yep I got a stand for you Gav drop me a PM. Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted January 10, 2014 Author Administrators Share Posted January 10, 2014 Quick Question. I was trying to get the center console out but 1 of the screws holding it in is fairly rusted in and of course the head of the screw has started to shear causing the screw driver to slip. Now I'm not sure how to get it out, there is no way to get vise grips on it. I was thinking of using an impact screwdriver to try and turn it but I'm worried it might crack the console plastic underneath. The other idea I had was to tack weld onto the screw and try and turn it that way (when I get the welder)? But I thought I'd ask here to see if anyone had creative ideas? I'm thinking of trying to restore the console myself, since it's not split but blistered / cracked along the top but otherwise looks good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted January 10, 2014 Author Administrators Share Posted January 10, 2014 Have an engine crane thats free at the moment, which you're welcome to use, but the stand is currently in use. Send me a PM if interested (in West Ryde area). Yep I got a stand for you Gav drop me a PM. Mick Thanks guys will do shortly, but I might end up buying a stand a few cheapies going on eBay at the minute and it's something I may need for a while. The crane is a different story though. Will PM shortly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PB260Z Posted January 10, 2014 Moderators Share Posted January 10, 2014 Quick Question. I was trying to get the center console out but 1 of the screws holding it in is fairly rusted in and of course the head of the screw has started to shear causing the screw driver to slip. Now I'm not sure how to get it out, there is no way to get vise grips on it. I was thinking of using an impact screwdriver to try and turn it but I'm worried it might crack the console plastic underneath. The other idea I had was to tack weld onto the screw and try and turn it that way (when I get the welder)? But I thought I'd ask here to see if anyone had creative ideas? I'm thinking of trying to restore the console myself, since it's not split but blistered / cracked along the top but otherwise looks good. Hey Gav Tack Welding could melt the plastic Impact driver could indeed crack the plastic Without looking at the exact situation I would suggest seeing if you can drill the head off, then once the console is out the way you can go nuts on what is left of the screw. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Zedman240® Posted January 10, 2014 Moderators Share Posted January 10, 2014 Kinchrome make a nice screw extractor set, or if you have access to a dremmel, cut a nice slot in whats left of the head or even make another cross and try again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cozza Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 Sounds like you might be able to spray a bit of "Inox" or similar beside the screw head, it should find its way down to the seized thread. Then after a beer put the screw driver back in position and give it a bit of torsion with one hand and a light tap with a hammer with the other hand. Not too hard but... Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted January 10, 2014 Author Administrators Share Posted January 10, 2014 I didn't get onto it yet, but thanks for the advice all the same. Not the most exciting update, but it was quite a bit of work so figured I'd mention it... I'm happy to report I finally got the 240z into the garage. Why is this a big deal? Well if you saw what I started with the garage was a bit of a mess and full of junk from the previous tenant / landlord. It wasn't a horrendous mess, but if you saw what was stored in cupboards etc.. You'd feel overwhelmed like I did. Being an investment property for the landlord he certainly doesn't spent lots of cash on renovations so the garage is quite cobbled together in a handy man / left over building supplies type way. It works for me because I don't feel it's so precious if I spill a bit of oil I'll be paying through the nose on my rental deposit. It's also cheap rent for Sydney and ticks all the boxes, close to work, good location, yard (gf is getting a puppy) and has a garage - which can store 2 small sports cars! Anyway after removing a mountain of dust, dirt, old paint tins, chemical tins with god knows what, building supplies and a spare toilet - yes I said toilet! I moved the work bench that was at the end of the garage to the side. I had previously measured up the 2 cars with tape to see how long they were and checked it against the length of the garage. It said I have 40cm to spare but I was still skeptical I'd done all measuring right. I got the help of my g/f to roll the damn thing (with 4 flat tyres) around and reverse it into the garage. All I'll say is that was a good workout, I was done by the time we got it in the garage. With all the grunting going on I think the neighbours were wondering what's going on. I saw them take a peek out the window and I smiled and waved back. I'll post a few pics in a minute, but I'm so happy after spending the last 3 days working to get the garage ready that both cars are now safely undercover. I was worried a hail storm may come and damage the body on the 240z further. Now I can relax, pull the motor out and get cracking on this thing in the comfort of a garage. I'll need to get some trolley wheels to roll the 240z around at some point, but all in good time. Hopefully future updates will be more exciting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 What? No Kitchen Sink? 'Go-Jacks' would be your friend, Gav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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