Jump to content

Ol Yella, Sushi's 240z


Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Rear End Work

 

_MG_8397.jpg

 

Brad has been kind enough to loan out some time on his hoist and a hand so that we can get the 3.9 Subaru LSD diff in along with the RT diff mount, rear brakes and Wolf Creek CV's (on loan thanks to Brad again).

 

Here's a timelapse of us pulling apart the rear end on the weekend (nothing too exciting) along with an awesome song from Brissy band DZ Deathrays :)

 

<a href="http://youtu.be/CkrFta_AQM4"><img src="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/24tzd/ZWork_Youtube.jpg"></a>

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That camera angle is a typical POV post zombie attack shot. But usually you would expect to see blood ooozzzing out on to the concrete and a zombie crouched over taking his fill.  :o

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think Some where in a previous project Shaun has used whitworth and metric bolts together, thus angering the car gods to the point where they continually punish him. Shaun, time to do some car penance so that you can have a project go smoothly. Perhaps sacrifice a mondeo or something.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep unfortunately nothing ever goes to plan. Thanks again Brad for staying up and working on the car until midnight Saturday.

 

We got everything back together, subi diff in, cv's bolted up and disc brakes bolted on and bled the system a few times but couldn't get any pressure in the pedal. Not sure if it is due to the callipers being mounted 'upside down' with the bleed nipple on the bottom. A few guys posted on Hybrid that the system would be hard to bleed with the nipple facing down as the air rises, maybe they are right. So we are going to try and use a pressure bleeder tonight, maybe even disconnect the calliper and hold it the right way up during bleeding. We also have to adjust the handbrake, it needed to be nearly vertical to get it to engage and if we adjusted it the brake would be constantly on. Not sure if we will be able to adjust it out or if we will need to modify the handbrake.

 

RearDiscs.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Apparently a few guys have had success with the handbrake working as is, I think we try and adjust again and if it's not good look at what mods are needed...

 

e-brake works great on my car. the number of clicks depends on; how your system is adjusted, pad coefficient and such. i can lock my rears and have tested it on some pretty steep hills.

 

With the drum brakes I was using most of the parking brake handle range.

With the SMM I am no more than three clicks up, and that is after loosening

the adjustment almost to the limit under the car.

 

Agree I can pull the ebrake and its fine. Still want to adjust it a bit more, as Dan said its at minimum.I want it just a little tighter
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shorter bolt where scoota? Are you decreasing the pivot of the hand brake? Was thinking of raising the hand brake connection on the rear pivot arm.

There's only two bolt on the handbrake mechanisim, i change out both of them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I take the calipers off to bleed them, it's pretty easy. For the handbrake i used a shorter bolt.

 

+1! I take my caliper off with the disc, put the disc back into the caliper and bleed with the nipple pointing straight up. I couldn't get all the air out otherwise. It's an R31 setup.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In between qld's crushing halves over the nsw cockroaches, I decided to go out to the shed and give Shaun's car another go. I figured that it might go a little better without the whitworth/metric car god cursed Shaun looking over my shoulder. I also had a tool from PZG which helped (don't worry Matt, I only used the force which I figured would be appropriate for a hair dresser ;-)). Was a tough piston, but managed to get the final caliper piston compressed. Also, for you information Shaun, the cube type tool didn't fit the caliper piston the best.

 

Was going to take it for a test drive, but had the 1600 stuck underneath (officially anyway). Just got to work out a fix for the hand brake now.

 

P.S. Shaun, the LSD works well, you might need to some new rear tyres though. ;-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha awesome, here's my tutorial on how to do the conversion.

 

Silvermine Motors Rear Disc Conversion

1. Take Car to Brad's house.

2. Pick up finished car from Brad's house. ;)

 

Do we need to bleed the brakes anymore or do you reckon they are fine?

 

And is the issue still that the handbrake lines are too short do you think? I might try and get at that adjustment at the front of the diff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brad, that brake piston tool Shaun borrowed was for the other dirty datsun in the garage, the haidresser car uses a bolt inhe rear of the caliper to wind the piston in.

 

I know what the drama is anyway, you are using seppo brakes, they haven't worked out how to build a car that stops or handles yet...... They still believe cart springs are perfectly acceptable suspension in 2013 for performance cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah Casey, long time no see. Are you heading to RACQ motorfest next weekend?

 

HANDBRAKE

So the car is back on the road, we didn't end up modifying the handbrake (yet). It is working well but it is on ever so slightly. I can notice it in my driveway which isn't quite level but as soon as you get a bit more of an incline/decline it starts rolling. There's a few more mm of adjustment we can get out of it without modifying so will try that first. I am yet to test it on a large hill but it seems to have a good hold at about 2/3's engaged.

 

FRONT/REAR BIAS

It has also been too wet to test the brakes properly but the pedal feel is good too, there's a little room for fine adjustments before locking the brakes up at about half way of the pedal travel. This is with what I think is the stock master cylinder. The fronts also appear to lock up just before the back as well so the bias seems pretty good.

 

WOLF CREEK CV'S

The Wolf Creek CV's do have a bit of slop in them, it appears to be in the bearing carriage as opposed to the splines (people have noted the splines being hammered presumably to get a better fit). These are 2nd hand units and could be a few years old, not sure if the current ones from Wolf Creek have been updated or not.

 

Anyway, the slop in the CV is less than the slop that was in my old diff and going from a 3.54 to 3.9 has given the car that little bit more response so the car is much more enjoyable to drive  :D

 

Again huge thanks to Brad for doing most of the heavy lifting and even working on the car without me. It literally would have taken me months to do all that on the floor of my driveway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you tried getting an adjustable prop valve for the rears? Theres no weight in the z's arse so a rear disc conversion normally bite pretty hard causing the lockup.

 

I got the Wilwood adj prop valve, turned the rears right down and its the only solution I have found. Of course tho, you need to take off the "tap or adjustment" for valve for legality reasons!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No worries about the help mate, was my pleasure, just can't believe how many hurdles a bolt in job could have, ha. That hand brake nut is pretty easy to get to (should be able to reach with a Jack under the diff) and you can back it off by hand. Take it out a little more and let me know how it goes. If that doesn't work we will book you in for doing the mod.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...