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thriller

Epoxy vs Etch primers for bare metal + process

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My TAFE teacher also said to do it over bare metal, however unless the metal is perfectly clean and the Nikki/hardener ratio perfect, I have been advised it is likely to rust underneath. I am doing epoxy/etch then sanding it to get a good key for the filler as some others are doing it. It seems the jury is still out somewhat, however I prefer this method.

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old hat methods vs new hat best practice.

always hard to convert the foagies, most never re-train anyhow, and that includes 'trainers' themselves.

 

If we lived by the old philosophies, F1 would still be steel caged cars, our forum would consist of pen & paper and maybe we would never have discovered light & lasers.

boy has the world come a long way in the last 60 odd years....too bad the motor car has not!

 

I would only recommend treatment of raw steel, either phosphate or chromate resultant products.

Of which the super etch is one of a handfull of the best there is as far as a 1k ep etch suitable for almost any further surfacing/finishing.

nat0

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there is no right or wrong, no way is better than the other. The BEST way is always by the manufacture specs. Personally ive used etch primer and epoxy, filler over metal and filler over epoxy. I found that is much much easier to just epoxy the entire car and take your time with the filler work. You will need to give the epoxy a scuff so the filler bites. If you are putting filler over bare metal, you need to work fast because it is porous and moisture will get under it. If a lot of moisture gets under the filler it will blister the paint down the track when the oxygen in the moisture want to escape... this is not good and would require a full bare metal respray again. 

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  Tried to buy Wattyl super etch primer at Bunnings some time back, was told that they don't sell it anymore. Also local paint shop

informed me that "White knight " is a Wattyl product .

 

                                                          Regards: Alan.

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