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thriller

Epoxy vs Etch primers for bare metal + process

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Just a bit of blasting left to do tomorrow & I will be ready to prime my engine bay. It's all back to bare metal.

 

Wondering the process I should go through to get best results... Good clean with wax/grease remover, then etch primer or epoxy primer first? What's the deal there? Lots of conflicting opinions floating around on the google-sphere. Or should etch go down first, then epoxy? Then hi-fill, color and clear?

 

Thanks.

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i say Etch, most painters say Epoxy Prime.

end of day metal needs to be cleaned, then sealed.

consult painter involved, and then seek alternatives.

Speak with some older guys then speak to some new younger guys.

opinions differ alot, but the new chem on most products if used correctly do work out a better option.

 

I use wattyl super etch, more hard wearing than poo15, confirmed independant test in my workshopp on the wire wheel.

its a single pack enamel & compatible with all 2pack primers, I know of.

My opinions based on my own experience.

nat0

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Hi Thriller,

The wattyl super etch will do what you need.

 

I use ppg 2 pack epoxy etch on customers cars.

 

Cheers

Paul

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100% etch primer...

Also try to use the dulux prepsol rather than a garden variety acetone ......just spent the arvo high on acetone fumes  :o :o :o

 

Where very Lucky this forum has some gun sprayers....no pun intended.  8)

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Thanks for you expertise all.

 

Have a tin of white knight SLS etch primer unopened. Will that do the trick or try to return it and go for the wattyl stuff?

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Theres a product out called Clausens 'All u need' Which is basically a etch, filler, primer, guide coat in one.

 

I've had much success with it and makes it much much easier as it can be kept in that state and doesnt absorb moisture over time. And compatible with all top coats i believe. Not cheap but simplifies things alot.

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yes, i also forgot the 2 pac etch epoxies, also a very good option, PPG & sikkens one I DO have first hand exp with, (but must have forgotten, must of not worn a mask!@#$)worked and sanded really well as they have quite a bit of build for what they are.

although stay away from one brand i came accros, its 2 pac etch was able to be slowely wiped off with thinners, (which 2 pach should not) cant remember brand But ill report back.

 

nato

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I prefer to use wattle super etch. You can use the dilute phos acid before priming i would like to know is it OK the use super etch over metal which has been treated with phos acid such as removing surphace rust after mollassas solution treatment.

 

Richard

 

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I have had good experience with debeer epoxy primer :)

 

used it straight after sandblasting - POR 15 on rust repair sections/repair work following the sandblast/epoxy prime

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wattyl is a phos based etch!!!

the one to stay away from i mentioned above is standox 2pac etch.

Wattyl is said to be the best, and i tend to aggree, sticks like shit to a blanket and its adhesion is f*&^n awesome.

as i have done these 'wrie wheel' test on my bench grinder. tough as, even though i thought it would not do to well only being a single pack etch.

but it is compatible with all 2k prods.....appearantly.

Nat0

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Just a bit of blasting left to do tomorrow & I will be ready to prime my engine bay. It's all back to bare metal.

 

Wondering the process I should go through to get best results... Good clean with wax/grease remover, then etch primer or epoxy primer first? What's the deal there? Lots of conflicting opinions floating around on the google-sphere. Or should etch go down first, then epoxy? Then hi-fill, color and clear?

 

Thanks.

 

Upol make a great poly primer & high filler gets a great finish.

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For bare metal i use 428 EX BARRIER PRIME by ppg .it IS A  2 pak ZINC PHOSPHATE EPOXY PRIMER FOR "WET ON WET". it flows on nice and the finish is semi gloss, and it comes in dark grey, white. The hardener is ex-9090 I haven’t had any trouble with this product, then ya ready for bog, polyester spray filler, primer, base coat, clear coat.

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Been hearing a lot of people recommend the Wattyl etch primer. I just have two questions about it though. First one is where do you buy it from? Is it just at Bunnings or would I need to find a paint supplier who stocks it? Also can you apply a body filler over the top of the primer?

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I've already answered one of my own questions. A quick look on the Wattyl web site and I've found a few distributors close by

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FYI, I just bought Wattyl Super etch and read the data sheet:  It IS an epoxy self etching primer.  So the question of one or the other is not necessary.

 

SUPER ETCH

®

TM1.50

Version 2, January 2010

DESCRIPTION : a premium quality, single-pack epoxy etch primer

 

It doesn't say whether body filler can be applied on top of it or if so within what time frame.

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FYI, I just bought Wattyl Super etch and read the data sheet:  It IS an epoxy self etching primer.  So the question of one or the other is not necessary.

 

SUPER ETCH

®

TM1.50

Version 2, January 2010

DESCRIPTION : a premium quality, single-pack epoxy etch primer

 

It doesn't say whether body filler can be applied on top of it or if so within what time frame.

 

I'm also keen to know if body filler can be applied over the wattyl super etch?

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Apparently body filler can be used over all primers, but surface must be sanded with coarse grit paper so that it bonds to it strongly.

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I'm also keen to know if body filler can be applied over the wattyl super etch?

 

Apparently body filler can be used over all primers, but surface must be sanded with coarse grit paper so that it bonds to it strongly.

 

Interesting, at my tafe course they tend to apply the filler to the metal and then paint over it.

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That is old school way Gav, mine is done like that and most of the bog that was done 20 years ago has fallen off with rust behind it, can show photos if needed,  supposedly the heat reaction causes the bare steel to sweat, that is why new school do it on top or  etch primer.

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That is old school way Gav, mine is done like that and most of the bog that was done 20 years ago has fallen off with rust behind it, can show photos if needed,  supposedly the heat reaction causes the bare steel to sweat, that is why new school do it on top or  etch primer.

 

In fairness I didn't see a teacher doing it this way, it was another student in the paint section doing it.

 

I epoxy then filler then re epoxy then prime. I also dont touch any bare metal without gloves.

 

Yes I tried to avoid any bare hands touching the metal after blasting.

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OK - Unless there is some very new, tried and tested products- I've never seen success with putting body filler over anything except bare metal.  If you check out what resto and custom shops are doing (youTube) you will see that it is all bare metal body filler work.  The bare metal must be prepped correctly and you NEVER wet sand body filler anyway.  You only need to get it to where your Primer/surfacer - preferably 2 pac epoxy (dry sand) will fill your scratches and not shrink back after top coat.  There is a plethora of info, how to's and DIY on youtube - check it out.

Rev

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