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Found 39 results

  1. Jak260z

    Fitting SR20DET into 260z

    Hi guys Would someone please inform/direct/link me of whats required to fully fit the above please? cheers
  2. 432 Style Exhaust - Vertical Twin Tip - Brands and Where To Buy Fujitsubo Manifold Back Exhaust System (Manifold also available) Part Num: 750-15411 Manufacturer Website: https://www.fujitsubo.co.jp/prods/detail/000000000000000979/00000000000000002324/00000546 Purchase RHD Japan - https://www.rhdjapan.com/fujitsubo-legalis-r-exhaust-muffler-s30-gs30-hs30-hs30h.html White Head Performance - https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/fujitsubo-legalis-r-exhaust-system-datsun-240z-260z-280z-s30/ Nengun - https://www.nengun.com/fujitsubo/legalis-r-exhaust-system Spirit Garage Complete Exhaust Manufacturer Website: http://www.spiritgarage.com/product/138 Purchase Spirit Garage - direct through manufacturer (as above) RHD Japan - https://www.rhdjapan.com/spirit-garage-stainless-dual-muffler-exhaust-manifold-header-set-48mm-240zg-s30-s31.html Z Story Can purchase individual exhaust components separately (ie muffler / manifold / exhaust lines and cat) Direct Purchase From Manufacturer: http://www.datsun-zstory.com/echappements/mufflers-silencers/silencers-jdm-muffler/ Price List (as of 2017): http://www.datsun-zstory.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/TarifsWORLD.pdf Abarth Able to purchase separate components (ie muffler or manifold back system) Direct Purchase From Manufacturer: http://www.abarth-exhausts.com/datsun/ After some personal research trying to find the style of exhaust I was after, I thought I would share my findings. If anyone knows of other similar styles, please post below.
  3. Well I have now purchased RS30-000467, a 1974 260z 2 seater. It was my brother in law's car which he owned since new (still has the original owner's manual, warranty/service booklet and full 260z service manual) and only stopped driving it about 18 months ago. He indicated it is accident free (other than some right front fender damage from a kangaroo) however he replaced the original engine in 1992 with one from a 280z after removal of all the fuel injection system). Also, he did mention that years ago the front passenger floor pan was pushed up when the car slipped of a hoist support when being serviced in the 1990's. It has the original paintwork and, other than a small patch of "deep" rust in the lower front door (about the size of a 20c coin), only appears to have some surface rust on the roof and some other panels. Yes, I know there will be some rust surprises in store for me! Currently the car is quite a way from where I live and the first step is to look to prevent further rust damage both that that is visible and maybe attempt to get to areas that are hidden. I will get it garaged and go from there. The plan is to get it restored (rust free) and painted in its original colour #303 Emerald Green (?Metallic?) and do some upgrades to the engine (mild ones!). I have chased up where the original engine was exchanged and it was a dead end - as you would expect after 24 years so no chance of getting matching numbers. Here are some pictures :
  4. Previous owner bough car from the 1st owner after 1-2 years after being purchased new. It was used for a certain amount of time and was in Wollongong before moving to Perth. It was in a Perth shed for over 15 years not being used and very occasionally started up. This is where I saw the car and eventually heard it. When we attempted to start it all the fuel lines split. I was partly hoping it wouldn’t start from a price point of view as the body looked in good condition. All the regular spots were rust free apart from the petrol filler cap, drivers foot well and spare wheel well. New fuel lines were fitted and a fair amount of start ya bastard later it fired up to life. Not sounding the best with some sort of exhaust leak (still to be determined) and plenty of smoke which cleared out after a while. I couldn’t really pass up the chance and considering I'd gone to Perth I knew the budget would be even lower in the financial committees eyes. A deal was done and transport arranged. A week later it arrived in pretty good shape and I was able to drive it (first time) from across the street to under the 'carport'. It did come with a range of spare parts all in unknown states and looking quite old - gear stick, drive shaft with 260z 2+2 written on and old datmasta sticker, e88 cylinder head, valve cover, two alternators, two starter motors, A/C compressor (I think), gearbox mount. A few more pieces which I'll work out what they are with time. Car still has all the A/C running gear, if the family is to ever get in for a drive it would be handy to have it. No idea if it runs, not a priority at the moment. After a quick clean - check out the gold pin stripes After a new battery later it is running… very rough, it's a spluttering mess really. It shouldn’t be a surprise but there was always hope that it would clear itself out, like a bad curry. I was going to change spark plugs and other regular maintenance bits and run a compression test. Considering the car isn't warming up, I've decided to follow advice and drain the tank first. Hopefully apply the kbs kit. In between that I'll be doing more cleaning in the engine bay to help determine the other issues (once the tank is back in). I will need to get an air pump belt and work out where to get the other parts - mainly hoses and eventually door seals. Cheers John
  5. Hey all, I have been thinking about starting a build thread for a while but have been putting it off, but i've decided to bite the bullet and start it up, perhaps more or less for my own records but hopefully I will be able to help a few people out as I have found huge amounts of valuable knowledge on this forum. Here we go! Back story: I picked up this 1976 260z 2+2 in mid 2017. I had been looking for a Z for a while (needed a new project car since I sold my last, a R32 skyline) but all I could seem to find was either cars with more rust then metal left or ones that had been restored and way out of budget. So when this one came up, regoed, somewhat driving and what I would call a reasonable condition and price I jumped! The guy I bought it off had the engine rebuilt. He couldn't tell me much or find the receipts but I do believe it was rebuilt. Goals: For me, this car is all about having a project to work on in some of my spare time. I'm an engineer and love designing and building things. My general philosophy is I try to do everything I can do myself and learn from my mistakes and give it another go if I need to. Therefore I know the end result wont be as good as some one who gave their car to workshops and let someone else build it, but for me it's all about the fun of the build. But to the car, my vision is a street car that I can take to the occasional track day or tarmac sprint. I was thinking about naming this thread "add it to the list" because every time I think about an element of the car, something about it needs to be fixed or replaced and I keep saying to myself, i'll add it too the list. But i'll get into details as the thread goes ahead, I have lots of cool ideas, hopefully some of which will come to fruition. I am taking it one step at a time, first the engine, then the suspension and brakes, then the panel work and interior is the simplified plan. Well heres a photo that makes the car look really really good, why not I say, there will be plenty of those gritty 'before' style photos along the way.
  6. Hi everyone! I've been stalking forum for the last couple years while restoring my rusty 260z so I thought it's about time for an introduction. I'm currently up north in Adelaide, haven't seen many z's up this way besides a little further north around Gawler. I haven't had the time to keep a build thread being a typical student but I've been keeping a log on Instagram of the build over the last two years. I had the car shipped over from WA after seeing a handful of pictures, including several large holes in all the typical S30 spots. Couple years later and a little bit of hard work and the car is in primer with rebuilt suspension and drive line ready to go in. https://www.instagram.com/cory.pritchard/
  7. Need a passenger side front guard... preferably no holes
  8. DanielRai

    Wtb: 240Z Airbox

    Looking for a 240z airbox for my carburetors Will pay for shipping Australia wide Located in 3078 VIC You can contact me via PM or 0401338094
  9. I have just picked up 3 sets of tail light trim bezels. For anyone that appreciates Datsun original chrome parts as much as i do, I have two spare sets of bezels for sale. Price: $299.00 per set Mailed Australia wide with your cores sent to me in exchange. (Your cores cannot have cracks) $399.00 per set Mailed Australia wide with no cores supplied. I must say they have imperfections, (refer to pictures) and for the cost of the Chrome Plating being done by a shop that specializes in concourse restorations of classic car chrome parts i was expecting factory quality without any imperfections at all. If you are after factory bezels please seek New Old Parts. The reason for such high cost is because I had to buy buckets and chemicals to strip the old chrome and the plating - this took along time and the cost of disposal of chemicals was higher than I expected. No shop accepted the surrounds until the old chrome has been removed. After my preparation the plater acid bathed the bezels and only then the plating process started. In the good old US of A these sell for $750 AUD ($575.00 US) shipped to Australia but you have to ship your cores to them which is another $60 AUD. https://www.californiadatsun.com/77-shop/exterior-trim-accessories/320-280z-chrome-tail-light-bezels I am not planning to do another set as it is simply not worth it time wise but i want your cores in exchange as they came off my other Z's.
  10. Greetings, So I managed to snap up a classic z with the current intentions of doing this in stages. Personally its the largest project I will undertake with basically a ground up resto with mods to come, with majority of the work being attempted myself and hopefully (will be) finishing it. From the story I been told this car was bought new back in 1975, was one owner till a ill fate of health he was unable to continue driving, the car was then passed on to his best mate who in turn had intentions of restoring it. A friend of mine actually saw the car while out driving and stopped by and inquired about it, thus finding out it's history, a few years later he was driving through the same area and noted that it hadn't moved, That's when he pitched a offer on the basis to restore it, the owner accepted the proposal. There it was stored at his place thou with many other projects on the go he had to let it go, which in turn I jumped at it. I was mid way of restoring a 2+2, this is has now gone into storage which i ll resume later and or / use for parts. Some day once this is complete I would like to catch up with the original owners to present it to them, that's the intent anyways. So the idea is to be done in two stages. (plus for me to have some sort of record of what I'm doing, i forget things :s ) Stage 1 : Restoration of shell, rust repair, added strengthening, panel work ect. Rebuilding of brakes, suspension - std items for the moment for compliance Rb26 conversion - just engine / gearbox / exhaust for compliance. Complete rewire. - this will help suit the conversion. Interior re trim. Basically to get it on the road and compliance with the RB Stage 2 : Track prep. will edit later for finer details. Among the original owner books i found the 1st owners cams licence, since this is what she was used for, its only fitting that this is where she will go. So it starts like this - paper work. 2 years to complete, ample time to get this done. While it took a while to get approval I was well underway stripping her down to find out how a ex tracked z was..well simply it was surprising. will need to strip this. no coolant lines or welsh plugs. all coolant lines where near blocked passenger side rear took a good hit somewhere in life, explains the new door. normal rust point. expected that. upside down pic.. but normal rust in fender. nose has been replaced some time in the past. welds rusting through. drivers side arch, kink .. suggestions ? we have lift off.. passenger side door frame seen better days. drivers side rear window. drivers side front pillar. found money ! winnings. So that's just a quick overview, will be interesting to see what else is in store. stay tuned.
  11. FS: Pair of rear quarter windows suit 240Z, 260Z: Excellent condition, stainless trim & glass unmarked. Asking $150 the pair - pick up from Calamvale 4116. Postage interstate extra - they weigh about 3kg. PM me your address & I'll check postage cost. 240Z/260Z rear Quarter Windows $150 Also: 1 x Rear number plate mounting bracket $25 - pick up from Calamvale 4116 or request postage cost to your address. 240Z Rear Number Plate Mounting Bracket $25
  12. Ahoysandy

    76' 260Z - Ratsun

    hey guys! My name's Sandy, I've been on the forums for quite some time and have been in contact with a number of members who have been able to help me out as well as guide me in the right direction. To these guys I am very thankful! But I have not yet talked of the Zed i own and am currently working on. In mid 2015 i began searching for a car that was a little more fun to drive as well as more appealing than my (still current) toyota echo. By the time november came around, I had in my possession a 1976 Datsun 260z that was in dire need of a little TLC. I will include a few snaps i took when inspected. This is my first interaction with these cars, dad is an MG guy and the extent of mechanical knowledge I had was no where beyond swapping out struts for bolt in coilovers. Despite my mates saying that this is a huge project (both of these guys had restored pre-1975 cars), and dad knowing as much as i know about engines, I was hooked on the idea of a classic car and building it up from scratch. So a week later, me and my best friend (he owned a ke55 coupe) drove to pick up this datsun for $4,200 and trailer it back. (looking back it was a bloody good deal on one of these cars even though i was told thats crazy for the condition). The first thing I got to work on was getting the engine in running condition again. The guy i bought it off said it was running when parked (last registered over 10 years ago but looked like it had been used as a paddock basher from the amount of dirt on the underside) so we chucked a battery in and got stuck in to checking for fuel, spark and any leaks. We found the only issue to the initial engine was the timing was 180 degrees out! She ran well up until the first week i had it registered but we'll get to this part later! After i was able to get her to move under her own power, the next and in my opinion, one of the most important aspects of safety was the brakes. I wasn't going to skimp here and nor did i know anything about how the hydraulic systems worked. So i took it on up to my local brake and clutch who i have since become pretty known to and had him inspect the rusty rotors and seized cylinders (yes this was the issue). We didn't end up actually doing any work and i took it home the same day, reason being, was as soon he got up on the hoist, these was a significant amount of rust that i had failed to spot. all through the chassis rails and floor pans. so instead, George (the brake and clutch guy) gave me the contact of another local fabricator who would be able to fix this up for me. It wasn't until mid March 2016 that the car would actually go in for these repairs... In the time between late 2015 and April 2016, The car sat in the garage where I was able tinker with wiring that was not correctly hooked up or not working, replace required parts and even got a hand on some small panel work, pulling out the small dent in the rear lower where the bumper had been nudged in. This period of time also included some preventative maintenance like replacing fuel hoses, filters and a bigger radiator. I was also able to save up a little extra and get my hands on some nice classic SSR XR4 longchamps from japan and had them wrapped in Toyo R888's! Speaking with the guy who was doing the rust repairs (his brother is apparently a huge datsun guy as well as himself preferring classics) was a huge help in getting the car toward passing registration. He basically swapped out the whole fiberglass front end i had purchased as well as working on all the structural rust repairs required. When he was finished work on it, he essentially said that he'd gotten to understand how the car was in condition and said he could take it for rego, so off it went. I was so excited as it was my birthday 2 days after this and i'd be getting my license back within 5 days also. But i was devastated when it came back that afternoon and had failed... cracked tyres and a parker bulb was out. to be fair i hadn't changed my new ones on yet and i think the bulb might've gone when he was swapping the front end. So this was an easy fix! i essentially brought my jack, wheels and tyres and a new bulb from bunnings down to his shop and changed them in front of him. He was Happy! It had passed!! I was over the moon, my plates i had ordered for it already had arrived, the RMS were happy with all the documentation i had brought along and she was road worthy 3 days before my birthday! I was driving it every second day after this. Had put a solid night or two in to upgrading the audio system as well as routing all the wiring for this. Not taking in to consideration the fact that it is an old car and i wasn't quite taking note of how i should be inspecting it frequently in every other mechanical area. I must've been too busy enjoying it? Turns out those gauges that i was fixing the wiring on actually work and low and behold, the engine ran dry of oil and she seized up completely on the highway back from university in wollongong one afternoon... on later inspection by James Flett at MIA. She's a goner, and for the price of L series engines, not worth the $$ considering it wasn't numbers matching either. So this leads me to the next period of time that is was on the road! I had been contacted by Geoff, a local to me, who kindly helped me out selling his old L24 and has since been of great assistance across many of the problems i've stumbled upon. it was this swap that i though would be a simple weekend, old one out. New one in, but it didn't quite work like that. It took about a month and a half for it to be back running and in full action. The problems being, there was a fuel pressure leak, causing the engine to fire but not run. I hacksawed the exhaust off the headers so that i could remove them from the engine bay, there was a MASSIVE oil leak from the rocker cover. I'm talking 4 liters a week of semi-daily driving and two gaskets later aannnddd little did i know, but the trans is a 5speed out of something else too, and i had ordered the wrong sized pressure plate and couldn't figure out the geometry of the clutch slave/fork/pressure plate so off the george at the clutch shop again it was where it had a new Exedy HD clutch put in! after that it was a quick pit stop at Kirrawee Mufflers to have a new 2.5" headers back exhaust (with flange) made up. now, The guy who did my rust repairs is the brother of one of the guys at kirrawee mufflers!. I can't remember which, but that was a funny connection! After this i drove her for another month to two, slowing fixing things like alternator tensioning, squeaky water pump belts and that oil leak! during this time, as one would expect with an exhaust this loud, i had number of run ins with the police. including one where i was driving without lights on as my alternator was loose and she wouldn't run right with them on, it was completely puking oil and coolant all through the engine bay and it was about 2 am on my way home. I should not have been driving it but heck it was fun! At one point, it was quite a nice day out, and i had just shifted jobs to one that allowed me to have the day on weekends off occasionally. A couple of mates with subarus were heading down through the national park toward mac pass so i decided to take the Ratsun along too. Again. The gauges work and the temp gauge was sitting way too high. It soon begins to show the symptoms of a blown head gasket and/or cracked block so it was back to the drawing board after parking it in the garage that afternoon. Unsure as to what path i should take now with my engine I contemplated and considered what options i had regarding swapping, fixing and building. Do i try and swap the head gasket in hope it was only that? I could pick up a straight swap RB30 package from a smashed datsun for sale for $3k and get myself some spares too. Or i could source another L26 to rebuild completely and plonk back in it. This is the pretty much point that we're at currently up to in the build! I ruled out any possibility of RB swapping the car for so many reasons inc. engineering, P plate legality and not to mention the incredible sound of triple carbs from these cars. Trying to replace a head gasket May or may not fix the issue and even still there is potential for more issues to arise with an engine this old. I chose the find another running L26 (actually from the other 'RAT50N' in sydney!) and send this off to James and MIA to be rebuilt from the ground up. This gives me the certainty of an engine without failure due to its age and i get to hot it up a bit too initially i was going to stick with a completely stock engine build. I feel as though the car was designed and build for an L26 so it should somewhat stay with this power plant. But after talking to a few members, other people who know a thing or two about engines and james himself, i was advised that by bolting triple webers on the side of a factory engine, there wouldn't be much positive outcome without some engine head work and/or cam. So the engine that's being built at the moment with have a few little pieces of fruit in it that i'm not 100% certain on what that is yet. i do already have a 280zx electronic dizzy and alternator. Yes i did order a New set of Triple 45mm webers, linkage kit and manifold but have been waiting 3 or so weeks for the redline manifold which has been on back order I think the 45's will pair nicely with the 2.5" exhaust and HD clutch, as well as a few of the compression internals from the rebuilt engine! (I resprayed an old rocker cover wrinkle coat red today because red things go faster) In the 2 month period it has been off the road, i took some time to tidy it up a little, painting the engine bay in hammertone charcoal, fitting new electronic gauges in the 3 center pieces as well as their sending unit + relocating my fuel gauge so i still have one!, and installing an OEM electronic fuel pump in the rear next to the tank. I'm still slowly working on little issues and projects within it, for example, im trying to fabricate a rear strut bar that i can connect my harness to but its still in early fabrication and needs some design altering. I really am now just waiting on parts to be ready to install! i thought about sanding all of my paint back and doing more body work at the same time as spraying the whole thing in primer. something like this ; thoughts? I'll be posting on this forum more as i progress and things move along as they have been so keep posted!! Cheers, Sandy P.S. I have an instagram account that i post regular pictures on about what i'm doing and the mods http://www.instagram.com/thegoldenturd Shoutout to Geoff and Cozza for making me feel welcome to owning a datsun and helping out when need be!
  13. Dear knowledgable folks! Just want to know if this is an issue for my 260 as I'm a bit of mechanical noob. Tried searching the forums already but not much luck. When I fill the fuel tank to capacity, I've noticed a fuel smell from the car when I'm parked. I assumed this was the return line to the carbs (triple webers) and never thought much of it, just always try not to overfill the car. Today, I filled the car, but then parked it facing down a hill. 2 minutes later I noticed a bit of fuel on the ground, opened the hood and saw fuel leaking from all around the Carbon Canister / emissions filter thing. Is this OK? Should fuel be able to overflow from the canister? If not – should I fix it? What implications are there to a stuffed / leaking carbon canister? Any advice / help greatly appreciated! James
  14. Hello Guys, My 1976 260z ID Plate has had 40 years of wear and tear, and as such the paint has worn off leaving only the chassis and engine numbers which were stamped on. I have had a replacement plate made which is laser etched which should last for the next 40 years. This is NON ORIGINAL. The originals were painted. I have had a few spares made, so if anyone is after a replacement plate they are $50 posted. I can stamp them if required. ( SIZE is 6x8cm ) Regards David (Enzo)
  15. ToddMalk

    Wtb Project Datsun 240Z-280Z

    It's been a long time since I've had my hands on an old Datsun and I've been resisting the itch. Though I'm at a point now that I can take on another project! I am now looking to purchase an old Datsun 240z-280Z (2 seater or 2+2) to work on in my spare time from work. I'm happy to pay freight to get one interstate, but being located in Melbourne would be good. My budget is around $5,000 Text me at 0433 713 091 if you are looking to pass on a Datsun! Thank you! Todd
  16. Make an on price, Aftermarket aircon unit in my car, comes with everything. Ac never had a belt on the compressor so unsure of how well it works as I've never used it. Will have to pull it out yourself, located in Burwood
  17. Hey Guys, Decided i would make a build thread of my RB30 260z 2+2. Im a 20 year old apprentice electrician and linesman, my first car was a Mazda mx5 and it is to still to date the best handling car i have ever driven. I have always wanted a Z car but the price tag was the only thing in my way of owning one, anyways i put up an add on gumtree one afternoon and around a week later i got a message from a guy on the south coast saying he had one. A few more messages later and we were on our way down from the Blue Mountains to a small town called Moruya with a car trailer. As usual there was a bit of rust in the car and interior looking like it had animals living in it but overall it was pretty clean and straight. $2,750 and 9 hours later i had my first Z First thing i started doing when i got it home was stripping out the interior and repairing the rust to get it blue slipped. While my repairs may not of looked 10/10 i thought they were pretty good for someone with no experience in panelbeating. Areas of rust that i fixed included inside the rear hatch, bottom dog legs on both side and the top of the front right quarter panel. While the paint looks pretty good, it has some bubbles coming through. At this point i decided that because i don’t have much money (being and apprentice and saving up for a house) i would just stick with the ratty theme of the car and embrace it. Hence the plates RAT50N. At last in Feb 2016 i got it blueslipped and on the road. As my brother is an apprentice mechanic and his bosses are kind enough to let us use the workshop we have access to hoists and other useful equipment Mechanically to get it sorted for a blue slip we replaced the front wheel bearings, a new lightweight flywheel, heavy duty clutch (had issues with getting this to work) new slave cylinder and tuned the carbies. (need help! this uploader is pretty stupid and won't allow me to upload any photos)
  18. 260ZMELB

    T3 Adjustable Coilovers ?

    Hi, im new i just joined up. Would love some advice as i am thinking about lowering my 75 260z. At the moment it has stock suspension. I was on the technotoytuning website and they offer a bolt on set of adjustable coilovers. This way i get to save my original set and have these replace them. $3,405 AUD by the time it comes to my door. Can anyone think of a cheaper or better idea? Please help as i am just getting into the Z game. THANKYOU!
  19. Hey guys, up for sale is a rebuilt L26 engine and transmission. Decided to go with a RB swap as it has been a headache to try and get the clutch assembly to work. Engine comes with New Flat top Pistons Honed block New seals and gaskets all round New main bearings New valve stem seals Head shave (N42) Twin round top Su's and manni Extractors NGK spark plugs Brand new coil and leads New dizzy Xtream light weight clutch (2+2) Excedy heavy duty clutch (2+2) Previous owner said the gearbox had been "overhauled" not sure what that entails but works fine. Comes with a 280z clutch fork from America. The clutch wasn't dissengaging so we thought that the extra height of the fork would help. Comes with radiator Master cylinder and slave cylinder What ever other components that go with the engine. Had the engine in the car and running but only for a few short minutes as it was dumping at the headers and we didn't want our neighbours to hate us. Ran really well in that short amount of time but. It's currently still in the car and it will only be coming out when it is sold. Previous owner built the engine so I don't have any proof of work done other than what is in the photos sorry. Not entirely sure what it is worth so hit me up with an offer. Going off what I have spent on it I'd like to get around $2,000 for it all
  20. Brand new never used Front and rear fenders Chin spoiler to suit gnose Purchased from RHD for more than $2000 Only asking for $1000 O.N.O In WA can wpost at purchases cost
  21. Hey guys, ill start by introducing my self. My name is Hadley, I'm 19 and live in the Bluemountains. Last November i sold my beloved Mx5 and decided to get a 260z. I found one for sale 6 hours south so we drove down with a car trailer and next thing i knew i was the owner of this golden Turd.. Its a 1974 2+2 (vin ends in 000764 so I'm guessing it is a really early one). i bought it off an old pommy guy for $2,750, he had been using it to tow his caravan around... the flywheel provide it to. it was unregistered but that was ok. when i got it home i set about cutting out rust and welding in new plates and bogging it up. I must of done ok as it past rego haha. A few months later a mate and i drove to Brisbane one weekend to pick up a l28 block, head and some other stuff. But i haven since decided that i want to do an RB swap instead... which brings me to my main point Ive figured out pretty much everything that needs to be done except for the tailshaft and diff. Ive tried looking everywhere for conversions on 2+2s but i can't find anything that will help. Can i use the standard tailshaft out of my car and will it fit straight in the trans? or do i need to use a combo of both? or just get a custom one made up? Also can i keep the standard diff? its just going to be a stock rb25det atm so will it be strong enough? Im an apprentice so i don't have a lot of money to spend and id like to do as much my self as possible as my brother is a mechanic. cheers guys. some photos of it so far
  22. Anyone interested??? Normally $195 ea Only If there's enough interest we'll do a run of these to keep the cost down will be needing to do a run of at least 10 left and right sides Payment via bank deposit only Price will be $125 ea plus postage if we reach the quota Post your interest or email us at automotivepanelcraft@gmail.com Only available on this forum and email.
  23. Balinski

    Wtb 240 And/or 260Z Coupe

    Hi all, Yet again, another Fairlady Z 'fan' looking to buy their first. As the title suggests, I'm looking for a suitable (unmolested/close to original condition) 240Z or 260Z two-seater. Have been scanning classified websites and other cracks of the internet for Zeds since graduating high school three years ago, though my interest in the Datsun Z expands far longer than that. Had an opportunity last year, though it was gone within a week of inspecting it - I should've made an offer on the spot! Price range between $20-$28k (basically as much as I can extract from my apprenticeship income!). Can travel, though my preferred area of purchase is Brisbane and surrounding areas. My goal is to find a car already registered, or one that doesn't need too much work to get on the road. I can definitely handle minor mechanical work - body/panel work, wiring, engine/drivetrain etc - though am not capable of large rust removal or other technical fab work, so please no rust buckets! Though my budget should surpass "them" projects.. just ANY help in locating one suitable would be very appreciated. Also, hello to all forum members! I'm new here THANKS!
  24. Hello other z nuts. I have a 1977 260z 2+2 which, after some work, has now been my daily driver a while. I am not keeping it stock but am making it more comfortable, reliable, economical etc a bit at a time. I've been driving it every day for nearly two years and have scored a rebuilt RB30 out of an R31 to go into it, along with both a manual box and a Jatco auto including computers for each. It is currently running a HM reconditioned (some time prior to 1992) L26 with twin SU's and a five speed manual and a 3.545. Before I ask let me say that I've been trawling the forums for some time and have found brief references to the following but nothing definitive or from someone who has actually done it so that's why I'm asking here - hopefully one of you has been as strange as me or worse. Questions: 1. Will the yoke off a stock 260z tailshaft fit either a manual (5 speed) or auto (4 speed jatco) box out of an r31 2. Am I likely to face length issues. e.g. will i need to have the tailshaft cut and pasted? 3. If I need the yoke off the R31 tailshaft is it likely to fit the 260z shaft or is there too big a difference in uni sizes? 4. I scored a Castlemaine Rod Shop set of engine mounts and there's this weird wishbone thing which others seem to say is for the transmission. Can anyone please explain it cause it seems unnecessary at this point - or is there a massive difference in the weight or fitment between gearboxes which the stock mounts wont cope with or cannot be adapted to fit? 5. I have the chance to fit a single downdraft intake manifold off an old GQ RB30 - has anyone run an RB30 Carby in a Z and had good results or is EFI always superior? 6. Am I likely to damage my R200 or the stock tailshaft by putting an NA RB30 in front of it? 7. Am I likely to have shifter placement issues with either the Manual or Auto on the RB30? 8. Will I need to change the shape of my trans tunnel to fit the gearbox, or to add holes to the firewall to have access to bell housing bolts? 9. If you or anyone you know has done this mod and thinks there's other stuff I may have missed (I know about the sump and pickup mods needed) please chip in. Bob.
  25. GodZilla

    Wtb 260Z Project

    Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum well even more so new to the club and for a while now I've been looking for a 260z 2+2 or a 260z coupe. I'm interested in any unfinished projects, any condition is fine even if it is furtherly incomplete that's not a problem at all, I don't really have much to spend so I can't go anything over $2000. if your interested in selling pls call me on 0423821921 or give me a text and I'll reply back.
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