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nanananabatsun

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About nanananabatsun

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    Victoria
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  1. nanananabatsun

    260Z 2+2 1977. $6K

    More photos of car when I bought it, when I drove it and now added to my gallery
  2. nanananabatsun

    260Z 2+2 1977. $6K

    This is a more thorough description of some of the story of the car which I sent to another member tonight. Save sending it out again - here it is. So... The vehicle was purchased from the original owner by a mate of mine Dave. He and his son built a 240z two seater as a hillclimb vehicle some years ago. They bought this yellow Z to strip it for suspension parts in order to make their 240z re-registerable again. They ended up deciding not to strip it because it was complete and (although mistreated) original. My wife purchased this car for me to have as a project vehicle because I was needing to work on something in order to deal with my stress. Things i noticed on the vehicle straight away... It had originally had a vinyl roof including chrome trimpieces from factory. A section of the roof has apparently torn and the original owner had replaced the section with a piece of plywood painted black. Also the glue under the vinyl had left a very very brittle residue that did not come off even with over cleaner, wax/grease remover, solvents, citrus based cleaners, eucalyptus oil etc. It could only be sanded off. Additionally, it appeared that the vehicle had at some point been resprayed above the trim line on the vehicle. The newer yellow was darker than the old yellow. Also, it was obvious that the rear corners of the car were slightly different shapes and had been repaired, and that the bonnet had once been dark green, and before that red. So the bonnet had been resprayed twice. The front left headlight shroud was also previously red. So it seemed the car had been in an accident at some point. The panel work had been done well and clearly quite some time ago but i stripped as much of the repaired sections back to bare metal to see their condition as I could - except for the rear right corner - i didn't get that far. After some sanding I found that the panels were quite close to straight and that the repaired sections were close enough for me to be content to reregister the car and just drive it. Also i was getting itchy to actually have somebenefit for the money i was pouring into the car. If you look closely in the photos you will see some places where the body filler would need to be reapplied in order for the vehicle to appear flawless again: just behind the left door, both rear corners, the bottom of the rear window (where I had the rewelding done), a small piece on the front drivers side of the bonnet near the headlight shroud, and a small section in the centre of the roof. When i pulled the stripes off the sides of the vehicle it also removed some pieces of paint. I guess that the pre-stripping process which I have had done on the vehicle has made it quite worse. Before i registered the vehicle I purchased a huge amount of product and sprayed it with matte black plasti-dip so i had a uniform colour. I also sprayed the corner of the engine bay where the battery sat to cover the surface rust. Plasti-dip advertises that it forms an oxygen prohibitive coating so that rust cannot continue to oxidize and spread. I was hoping to take the car off the road and do the body work more thoroughly - but now that's stalled and so that's why there's some surface rust. Don't trust plasti-dip to inhibit rust. I also had some repairs done on the dashboard to make the surface of it smooth but when it was refitted into the car the heat gradually warped and cracked it again. I intended to send it to dashboard doctor in Melbourne to get it properly reskinned but that hasn't happened. When I was in San Francisco two years ago I purchased a front air dam for $500 and carried it back through customs. To complete this build I also priced brand new carpet kits, getting the seats retrimmed, getting the windows professionally tinted - fitting my new rear window demister kit, fitting my new shocks, fitting my skyline brakes and getting the body work done. I have mates who have offered to help me if I want to keep the car but at this point I am just very disheartened with the project. When i took it off the road in August last year I was going to do body work and I had sourced an RB30 along with computers and gearboxes to install them. One of my friends and mentors who was going to help me with engineering the build died suddenly of a heart failure. So since then I have not really progressed. I sold the other engine and attachments and decided to restore the car instead. But the body shop was supposed to have the vehicle sodablasted, undercoated and the metalwork done on the body by April and they still haven't touched it. So that's why it's for sale. I have four kids and while I know i wont get anywhere near the money I spent on the car, I'm cutting my losses and I just want to get a good Four wheel drive to spend time with my own kids. So I'm selling this to get enough funds for a decent patrol.
  3. nanananabatsun

    260Z 2+2 1977. $6K

    comment removed
  4. nanananabatsun

    260Z 2+2 1977. $6K

    Old photo. They were replaced with an abs front dam spoiler i got in California. Also replaced headlights with new reflectors. forgot to mention 2 spare rear seats, spare rocker cover, downdraft manifold and carby of a 240k, rear brakes off an r31 which i never fitted. Spare centre console in poor condition. I also put new wheel bearings in the front and replaced rear wheel cylinders.
  5. nanananabatsun

    260Z 2+2 1977. $6K

    Photos Z Disassembled at present.bmp
  6. nanananabatsun

    260Z 2+2 1977. $6K

    I also have a 120y coupe which was going to become a 140z/160z replica for $2k. Complete but with a rebuilt head which has not been fitted.
  7. nanananabatsun

    260Z 2+2 1977. $6K

    SOLDSOLDSOLDSOLD Disassembled. Was my daily driver. Deregistered to have blasted and resprayed. Family situation changed. Remote central locking. Electric windows. Had a vinyl roof. Chrome trim included. 3.545 diff. Reco L26 5 speed. Twin SU. Points. Duco very bad. New fuel pump. New tires. 280zx rims. Boss kit. All new door jam and glass seals. If i was going to keep it i would buy dash cap, seat covers and carpets. p.s. lowered on KingSprings. New front shocks, not fitted.
  8. nanananabatsun

    Rb30 + Parts For Sale

    Was going to put in my Zed but It's just turned into a nightmare and I'm leaning more now towards just rebuilding the original motor. So, looking to part with a professionally reconditioned RB30 (about 5,500 kms driven since reco) out of a R31. Comes with: engine mounts from Castlemaine Rod shop Jatco 4 speed auto + auto computer + auto ECU VL 5 speed manual (disassembled to replace bearings. Unfinished.) + manual ECU Complete (and I mean complete) R31 loom. R31 aircon compressor and bracket R31 Power steering rack and pump and bracket R31 tailshaft (auto) Will need new RB30 sump gasket. Sump is stock. I removed it to have it measured and quoted for modifying. RB30 was running in the R31 which I took it out of. Really wanted to mod but it's just been doing my head in. Looking for $900
  9. nanananabatsun

    260Z 2+2 Parts Wrecking 2 Cars

    Chasing gauges, Rear window louvre, rims, dash, door cards, seats. Prices and availability?
  10. If any of you guys are near Bendigo or Kerang, let me know. There's at least four zeds i know of around here. 2 pure, 2 modded (including mine). There's another scrapped which I'm gradually getting parts off in Castlemaine. Info if you know where to find it.
  11. nanananabatsun

    Rb30 Conversion In A 77 260Z 2+2

    Cheers very much for the info Lurch. I appreciate that swapping in a stock RB30 would not be vastly superior to a fresh L26. I'm doing the swap because the L26 is very tired and the money I would have to throw at it to either do a 3.1 or even just a good reco would give much better bang for buck on an RB. The RB is recently reco'd (less than 5K) I also have access to an RB25 head. My Z has been through the wars a bit with damage and old repairs on all four corners as well as a non original bonnet which was previously red and previous to that green, as well as non original headlight surrounds etc. I saved it from becoming a parts donor for another Z and the engine is also not it's original - which is also why I'm not precious about modernizing some parts. I did see a link a while ago in Japanese I think where someone had modded an RB25 or 26 head onto an L26? That would be fun to drive but a nightmare to work on I imagine.
  12. Hello other z nuts. I have a 1977 260z 2+2 which, after some work, has now been my daily driver a while. I am not keeping it stock but am making it more comfortable, reliable, economical etc a bit at a time. I've been driving it every day for nearly two years and have scored a rebuilt RB30 out of an R31 to go into it, along with both a manual box and a Jatco auto including computers for each. It is currently running a HM reconditioned (some time prior to 1992) L26 with twin SU's and a five speed manual and a 3.545. Before I ask let me say that I've been trawling the forums for some time and have found brief references to the following but nothing definitive or from someone who has actually done it so that's why I'm asking here - hopefully one of you has been as strange as me or worse. Questions: 1. Will the yoke off a stock 260z tailshaft fit either a manual (5 speed) or auto (4 speed jatco) box out of an r31 2. Am I likely to face length issues. e.g. will i need to have the tailshaft cut and pasted? 3. If I need the yoke off the R31 tailshaft is it likely to fit the 260z shaft or is there too big a difference in uni sizes? 4. I scored a Castlemaine Rod Shop set of engine mounts and there's this weird wishbone thing which others seem to say is for the transmission. Can anyone please explain it cause it seems unnecessary at this point - or is there a massive difference in the weight or fitment between gearboxes which the stock mounts wont cope with or cannot be adapted to fit? 5. I have the chance to fit a single downdraft intake manifold off an old GQ RB30 - has anyone run an RB30 Carby in a Z and had good results or is EFI always superior? 6. Am I likely to damage my R200 or the stock tailshaft by putting an NA RB30 in front of it? 7. Am I likely to have shifter placement issues with either the Manual or Auto on the RB30? 8. Will I need to change the shape of my trans tunnel to fit the gearbox, or to add holes to the firewall to have access to bell housing bolts? 9. If you or anyone you know has done this mod and thinks there's other stuff I may have missed (I know about the sump and pickup mods needed) please chip in. Bob.
  13. nanananabatsun

    2015 Christmas Bbq

    Sucks that I missed it. The cars look great. I would have loved to have been there. If there's other events coming up please keep me in the loop.
  14. nanananabatsun

    Parts In Victoria

    Assorted Datsun Nissan parts for sale. Doing a Spring clean. Items located in Kerang Victoria. Can post. Can drop to melbourne occasionally. I'm not on here often. so be patient if I don't message back for a day or two. Original 260z 2+2 springs for sale. $20 Original 260z 2+2 copper core radiator. $20 full set of skyline R31 seats in not great condition $20 L20 fuel injection manifold + L20E computer no loom. $150 260C L26 single Carburettor manifold for dual throat Nissan Carb $150 Original 260z A/C compressor with mounting bracket but no tension adjustment wheel $25 260z 2+2 Dashboard vacuum operated vent box $100 260z 2+2 bumper overriders $20 4 spoke mag wheel centrecap $10 Nissan Bluebird headlight covers (2 sets) $20 260z 2+2 driver's door skin. Brown Leather. $80 Skyline R31 gauge cluster. Bluebird Gauge cluster. Some random I-don't-know-what-it-is-cluster $20 for all three Spare L26 rocker cover $40 Spare Original 260z 2+2 tail light assembly. $250 I also bought a kit of full body rubbers from Datsun LLC in the States but haven't used half of them. Message if you need one and I might have it.
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