Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


theremm last won the day on June 23 2018

theremm had the most liked content!

About theremm

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

member details

  • Location
    Brisbane QLD
  • Tagline
    New Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Its ok, thanks though. A bit out of my budget at the moment. Perhaps sometime in the near future hopefully! Have been trying to snag a second hand set for a while on yahoo. They are a little cheaper than that still and condition is generally pretty good.
  2. Quality looks pretty good!! What do you reckon? Would be interesting to read reviews on fitment.
  3. theremm

    Evie 1972 Datsun 240z

    Hey Gav, nice pickup and pretty good price too I reckon. I thought the hamster cages had two clips on top of each box though?
  4. Yes I'd think so too, though I believe for the PCV valve to operate correctly it needs to be connected to the crankcase breather, not the rocker cover. However, given you have blocked off your crankcase breather then perhaps that changes things? Not entirely sure on that.
  5. Thanks Alan. Does any oily residue appear to travel from the rocker cover into the airbox? And when you had the catch can, was it a vented type with a breather on top? I assume it's not possible to run a PCV valve anywhere given the manifold (Harada) does not have a balance tube for this to connect. Hadn't considered blocking off the crankcase breather before, though I had read on other forum posts that this was ok to do given the engine can vent upwards through the timing chain cover.
  6. Alan and Gareth, What have you done with the crankcase breather/PCV valve and rocker cover breather connections, using the R-Factory airbox? Have you diverted these to an oil catch can/air oil separator? I'm very close to installing mine. I don't like the look of those universal filters people put on in place of the proper plumbing. What would be your recommendation?
  7. theremm

    Ab's Uncut Emerald - '74 260Z

    Is it overheating? Do you need a recore? The 3 row should work more than adequately if all the tubes are clear.
  8. theremm

    Colour advice please.

    In saying that if I were ever to repaint my car I'd only ever use an original colour but it's all a matter of personal taste and opinion really.
  9. theremm

    Colour advice please.

    I love the original british racing green and think it is one of the nicest colours on the Z. Not sure if it is an original colour for the 260z, though it looks great on the 240z in my opinion. If you are considering resale value then the best advice would be to choose one of the original colour schemes that you like the most and go with that. That's definitely a safe bet. Or at least a minor variance in an original shade. I think its a fair observation that cars which don't have an 'original looking colour' generally don't have as wider buyer appeal, therefore limiting the number of people who would be prepared to pay the price you're asking for the car.
  10. theremm

    The Global Z-car (S30/S130) Market Thread.

    So many amazing cars going to auction here: http://bhauction.jp/en/ Of particular interest, a Z432 bare metal shell and parts collection incl. S20 engine as a restoration package.
  11. theremm

    Fan shroud

    I've since been told that apparently 240z's never came fitted with shrouds, despite having the mounting points for them. I've seen the later plastic 2 piece shrouds around as well as the 1 piece metal shroud. Not sure which cars got the metal shrouds?
  12. theremm

    240z front radiator support

    One on eBay (Australia) at the moment. Only half side though.
  13. theremm

    Fan shroud

    Does anyone have a fan shroud to suit a 1973 240z spare they would be happy to sell? Not sure if there are model differences between the various years, 240/260/2+2 etc. Happy to take a later shroud if they are the same.
  14. theremm

    Engine pinging on cylinder 1

    Thanks both for the responses. Turns out it was an exhaust manifold leak, so an easy fix after all. When I went to tighten up the manifold I noticed that the threads on two of the exhaust studs had partially stripped and therefore was causing the nuts to turn tightly but not actually move any further down the thread. Removed these studs and replaced them with 2 exhaust bolts I had on a spare motor. This did the trick.
  15. theremm

    Engine pinging on cylinder 1

    I'm having issues with pinging/knocking, in what appears to only be from cylinder #1.When I remove the ignition lead to spark plug #1 the pinging subsides. I've tried removing the #1 spark plug and holding it against the block while cranking to confirm the plug is firing. That all worked ok. (As per previous recent posts) I have just installed a newly reco'd E88 cylinder head setup by MIA engines. The E88 is the MR30 EFI type (injector notches have been filled), running a clive cam 355 grind. I have installed this on my L24 bottom head with the factory 240z flat top pistons (no valve reliefs). I have a fresh tank of 98 octane fuel, and the camshaft has been degreed in correctly. Valve lash has been set and rockers all sound fine when running. As far as testing, so far I have: - adjusted ignition timing, including completely retarding and advancing timing to test; knocking still occurs - adjusted SU mixture, including completely richening the mixture; knocking still occurs - new spark plugs installed and gaps checked - have tried a spare set of ignition leads and the knocking still occurs. Neither set is new however the leads worked fine before swapping the cylinder head. Have attached a video of the engine running. Any thoughts on what else to try?