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gilltech

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gilltech last won the day on April 10

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About gilltech

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  • Birthday 05/29/1956

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  1. gilltech

    New dashboard cover.

    The one in the ad in the link you posted is for a S30 which appears to match our market 260Z. Is that what you want? Not clear whether it's an overlay, or one has to entirely remove the existing dash skin first before gluing it on. If it's an overlay how well does that work with the gauges? They are a tight fit already. Personally I'd look at the Dashboard Doctor's work first ie. quality - does new vinyl texture closely match existing and look right, etc. And their price surely will vary some depending how rotten and badly split the foam underlay is requiring less or more work. But I'd have thought the $650 plus freight would be money well spent on one of the most visual features of the car.
  2. gilltech

    Wanted 260Z rear clip

    Good luck with your project, another car to be rescued.
  3. gilltech

    Wanted 260Z rear clip

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  4. gilltech

    Wanted 260Z rear clip

    I thought only the early years of 240Zs missed out on the 'tool boxes' ?????
  5. gilltech

    Wanted 260Z rear clip

    .
  6. gilltech

    Wanted 260Z rear clip

    Are floor pans still available from Rare Spares or whoever?
  7. gilltech

    Wanted 260Z rear clip

    Ah, good to see some photos. Mine is also a '74 2-seat. If it were me I'd strip the car down to the very bare shell (which you're going to do anyway for a resto) then get it on to a chassis machine to pull the structure straight. The whole shell has to be checked in any case, and dimensions squared up to within tolerance. The whole floor, tunnel and even the front rails could be out of whack in any direction, up, down, sideways. It's amazing what can be pulled straight with those machines. In any case your chances of finding a good rear 2-seat clip is pretty slim and you'd pay good $$$ if you did. And being 45yrs old it will no doubt have it's own issues as in coming from a rusty or another crashed car. If I were in your position I'd work with what I have as personally to end up with what I call a 'cut'n'shut', knowing I have 2 cars joined in the centre, would be the last resort. The upside is that you have a good condition base to start with. So go for it and good luck.
  8. Exactly. Good solution. FWIW my car was only 10 yrs old when I bought it and the slim underfloor rails were already well plugged up at the rear with road grime and mud, I reckon the drain holes let as much in as out. A prime example of poor design IMO. I eventually had mine repaired, then drilled new drain holes at the very rear, heavily rust-proofed them, and no more problems since. I advise others to do the same if it's not too late.
  9. gilltech

    Wanted 260Z rear clip

    You need to specify whether 2-seat or 2+2 as they are completely different shells. And what year as there were changes to the shells over the years.
  10. Agreed, the drain holes aren't positioned very well, even on my 2-seat which has a shorter floor. Therefore, as I said, I would recommend drilling a third drain hole at the very rear because that's where moisture and dirt gathers. But up to you.
  11. Not sure which portions of the chassis rails are in question? Engine bay or under-floor? The Zed structures are just bare steel inside hence they rust from the inside out. Replace the rusted steel sections and pump the cavities with rust-proofer. The above picture shows a nice tidy repair by CAF to the rear portion of a under-floor rail but I don't see a drain hole anywhere. There are normally two drain holes to the underside (maybe lost with previous repairs?), and I would recommend drilling a third at the very rear fold.
  12. gilltech

    Main body earth (Negative) link location

    The fine earth wire on mine is not a separate wire as such but rather is permanently attached with the main negative cable to the battery terminal. If your main negative cable has been replaced with an aftermarket cable then that will be why you have the separate wire. There is a threaded bolt hole in the firewall just above the battery where the factory fine earth wire is intended to be attached.
  13. gilltech

    Main body earth (Negative) link location

    Mine earths through the thick cables to/from the starter motor and also there's a thinner earth wire connected between the negative battery post and adjacent firewall. Does your car have the latter wire?
  14. gilltech

    Main body earth (Negative) link location

    Was this the result of a Nissan service advice note or something? Mine doesn't have one, nor do most of the Zed engine bays I've looked at online.
  15. gilltech

    Original finish on underbody of 260z 2+2?

    I have an unrestored early '74 260Z, NZ-new 2-seater. My findings are these FWIW: - Primer: the entire body was painted in a light grey/slightly greenish primer, but only those areas easily accessible to the painter; inner cavities received minor overspray only & were otherwise left bare. (This from the days before manufacturers started dunking the body shells). Top coat: red in this case, was only applied sparingly to visible finished areas; ie. remove any of the bolt-on panels and there are areas of grey primer behind with just a bit of red overspray. The floor pans, drive tunnel & fuel tank areas are just grey primer, as is the interior of the shell. The underside is well coated with an underseal & sound deadener product which I presume would have been dealer applied - very common in NZ in the day - as there is/was some overspray on to mechanical components. There's no 'texture' under the primer or under the red that I've found anywhere. Some of the underseal has flaked off over the years having dried out hence I know which areas got the red & which areas missed out. Not long after buying the car in '84 I pumped all the cavities full of a rust proofing gunk, having had rust issues with a previous Datsun that was much newer. Having kept the car this long I am so glad I did as very little rust has emerged. Personally, I think the factory was very stingy indeed judging by the minimal amount of paint applied & its application. So when you come to repaint your car you can't help but do much better!
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