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Everything posted by nat0_240_chevZ

  1. Got some floor rails handy, or your after engine bay rails also?
  2. Hi guys, those holes you speak of are not drain holes, as such but are tool/jig holes for assy on the factory line. pressed panels used pins to drop onto, floor ontop and then the welders go to town with their spotwelders. Back from travels, haven't checked the forum in a long time, spotted the updates of late and thought id chime in. Yes the holes tend to let more crap in than out, but hey. Good to see the old rails being on-sold. Nat0
  3. nat0_240_chevZ

    240Z - Year of manufacture?

    Auto on an l28 but... Eng # on build plate 054993 Comp. Date 10/71.
  4. nat0_240_chevZ

    240Z - Year of manufacture?

    I have the plates/id from hs30 1400. Was the goldy yellow/orange poo colour. It was a write off bought from z wreckers, had some Weird bits and jap chalk marks under the dash etc. Needless to say it was chopped up as it was put into a pole/tree heavilly. When i picked it up it had:- F54/p90 engine combo/head combo. Auto transmission Fibreglass headight buckets and blanked fender mirrors. Old skool jap looking sports wheel. Other than that not alot more i can remember but can advise for reference sake the aus compliance i still have along with body sections. Nat0
  5. nat0_240_chevZ

    Inhibiting Rust From Brake Disc Hub

    Auto trans fluid 50/50 with thinners, wet rag wipe, Wax on.... Wax off....
  6. Only real early ones, so far confirmed. Ie Below RS30 - **1000 vin.
  7. I have some floor rail sets available now. But a change in jobs, extended travel may see a 12 month delay. Before any production. Nat0
  8. Materials are G450 hiten steel which is galvanised. Thickness is 1.5mm, originals 1.0-1.2mm I hope this helps.... ? Cheers nat0
  9. Hi all, I Have some high strength steel im making some of my own chassis rails in the engine bay, (finish where the floor rail covers it near the TC rod Bracket, bottom of firewall) from firewall to rad support, direct factory replacements from slightly heavier gauge steel, and still of high strength. these units have all the holes say a 240z and earlier 260z 2 seater have, including holes for the splash tray, sway bar, tow hooks and engine cross member. these will require the skills of a panelbeater or LURCH to install, but are made for the utmost purist, as they have been designed with originality in mind, not like some others available from USA. I only have pics of my preliminary rails thus far, more pics will be up in the next week or so, will keep posted, but for now, see attached, also note they include the tappered down area near the radiator as per stock rails, remember these are to try and be as close to std spec as possible, also includes original JIG/tooling holes for measurment and positioning. pricing is solely dependant on demand, if I make 5 lh and 5 rh then dont expect any more, unless tabco want to buy/distrubute them..... These rails DO require the re-use of? - existing TC/Castor rod brackets - Floor rails unless you need these too. - inner skirt & strut tower (inner wheel fender/guard) I am/will be using these on my car/s, for race / events etc, and since wittnessing the stock rails support, is mandatory as far as i see, these will be manufactured using CNC equipment and every rail WILL be the same. any Q's please ask, but dont bother me with a stack of questions if you do not intend to buy or are genuinley not interested. apologies for those whom are inquisitive by nature, only offering these, as I NEED them myself, only fair to see if I can help out others. Now please also consider that this Higher strength steel is expensive, so youre not buying cheap off the shelf folded section with no strength. Have material certs available if you are interested. nat0
  10. nat0_240_chevZ

    Inspection Lamp Toggle Switch

    Nice. I believe i have a couplenof those badboys floating around, 1 at least in my toolbag..... Id pass on the decal but thats me. Never even thought! Nice work! Nat0
  11. nat0_240_chevZ

    Cleaning Brake Lines Internally?

    Try pressure pumping walnut shell, hand cleaner through them. The non solvent stuff. Diaphragmatic pump or piston. Then to be flushed thoroughly with solvent, of course...... Try it out on small scale first to ensure desired results are achieved... Or otherwise sand from lake McKenzie, fraser island in a sand / water slurry. Lol just got back from holidays ? Nat0
  12. nat0_240_chevZ

    Just Can't Get The Timing Right - Help !

    Try this. Forget the degree marker for a bit. Car runs, right? Rotate dizzy till revs pick right up, then drop back a bit till revs drop down to say a high idle, 1000rpm. Then check with light, no vac adv... What does it read on your degree scale? If a weird number, check scale plate and pulley havent been changed. And ensure dizzy is suited, yes later dizzy have the differently orientation bodys, which could also be cause for your confusion. Eliminate the whoopsy factor first. Has the dizzy been apart? If so who? When etc. Need to eliminate the possibility of a bumsteer first....
  13. nat0_240_chevZ

    Just Can't Get The Timing Right - Help !

    Sounds like vacuum supply to dizzy on on the wing side of your throttle blades, ie between throttle & head, not pre throttle.... Check this! Otherwise something more sinister.. Only as speed increases? Ie mech advance (vac disc) or throttle posn. I thought you said mech advance appeared to be working? Nat0
  14. nat0_240_chevZ

    Holistic Approach To Handling. Done Right The First Time!

    Mmmm an interesting read, some great sources of information posting on this thread but appears to be no inkling of advice offered, heard. Probly the best question of all..... How do you like obsurd amounts of bump steer with your coffee? And what measures /mods do you envisage you'll do to alleviate or negate it and other, lets say, induced geometry concerns? Parts lego, is only half the issues at hand. Dreamproject also sums up the first post, but not the responses to the offered advice /suggestions. As that was what asked for.... Spectating from the bleachers. Nat0
  15. nat0_240_chevZ

    R200 Longnose Viscous Lsd Options

    I have put a mech 2way cusco diff in an open r200. Had 13mm bolts, yes m13, no bs. From an r33 Gtr. (a very unusual size) Viscous can /will work if you desire. My suggestion is stick with mechanical. Finding a precision diff professional, is very hard, have had some run ins with so called pros, whom i collected my diff in pieces, and performed mods my self, then got local engineering shop to check the mesh/alignment and lash. Otherwise all your hard work and cash ends in the bin. Be prepared to pay money for the work, it's pretty delicate stuff, very fine tolerance, which a good machinist or engineer can only appreciate. My need for a 2way, was behind an auto v8. Still ran orig uni-joint outputs, but shafts had subtle mods to suit. Later swapped to cvs, (no reason other than want, ie no breaks) these also reqd, the same subtle mods to the output shafts. Nat0
  16. Hi all, as some of you may have seen of late severl posts/topics of everything to do with restoring/replacing or retrofitting. here is another one of them. Aimed at ones whom want a fresh start, with the usual 'looser of any front end battles'. here is the start, the very start, of all the hours I put in to a relatively complex development, hours upon hours of measuring, drawing/drafting, checking, cussing & re-drawing and re-drawing again anad again until they are perfect (or nearly there). This Development is not neccessarilly one I need myself but I do already have the need for the below pictured lower box section, The 3rd pic, is also a layout of the front panel from top to bottom, which I am currently working on, again I didnt NEED it but it would be nice to put a new one in and also to help out others. now the only thing left up front it the top cross piece which houses the bonnet latch & corner gussets amongst others. Ill try to keep this thread pretty clear, there will be a few extra bank posts below, for future updates. Cheers Nat0
  17. Pricey, PM replied, Apologies. Nat0
  18. Floor rails, may not suitable for your car bud. Pics reqd, to confirm. Pretty sure i responded to one of your PM's. If not ill post again. I Have a couple of floor rail sets in stock again. Cheers nat0
  19. nat0_240_chevZ

    Inspection Lamp Toggle Switch

    Any pics GH? May take 2 or 3, as i have a few lights.... Nat0
  20. nat0_240_chevZ

    Inspection Lamp Toggle Switch

    Mmm watching closely! Nat0
  21. nat0_240_chevZ

    Steel Sheets

    Try metalcorp, a retail outlet of bluescope, look them up. MightyM same for brice/surdex, here in SA. There are a few diff grades id nominate. I prefer zincanneal, for corrosion resistance initially, but on a weld seam will sand coating off a little. Then either brightform or CA2/cold rolled for clean steel. If a structural area, i use a higher spec material upto a grade 450mpa, can get 550 but is very brittle in comparison but exactly what it's for. Doesn't form easily, and may need to Sand off the galv as its a full galv sheet. Try local sheet metal shops for offcuts or half sheets. Nat0
  22. Hey pricey, You will need to confirm, with pics if possible, the existing floor rails. PM me once you have had a chance. Nat0
  23. nat0_240_chevZ

    260Z Rb25Det Full Conversion Kit

    What gbox is it exactly? From what model /year of car? Cheers nat0
  24. nat0_240_chevZ

    Rb25Det Custom Made High Volume Sump For 240Z

    Reason for sale? Any indication on the volume? Did it leak? Cheers nat0
  25. nat0_240_chevZ

    Z Airport Taxi service? ;)

    Ah, figured as much. But i am going to tullamarine, I did search but this was the one that came up. If i cant search and find it, what hope do we have, didnt want to start a new thread..... If you found it, are you able to flick the link up? Cheers for your help!