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Zeddophile

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About Zeddophile

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    The 1000+ club

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    Melbourne
  1. I'd have to disagree with you on this car. The rust in the A pillar makes it a proposition for someone with plenty of skills and experience to bring back, and who knows what is where you can't see. The boot floor is fibreglassed, who knows where else has been - thinking particularly chassis rails and sills. It may not need to be particularly pretty, but it does need to be structurally sound, both to pass roadworthy and for general safety. Someone like Lurch would be able to do it, but I'm guessing wouldn't want to bother. I'd personally have a go at it, had I time and money, but as a first project for someone without money, tools or experience? That ones a bit too far gone in my opinion. And don't forget it's probably closer to a 3k car by the time he's got it to Sydney....
  2. Zeddophile

    MIG welding skills

    Makes no real difference at all, 0.8mm is just more commonly found in most peoples welders, hence my guess. As you picked up, ideally I'd close the gap up a bit with the 0.6 wire, maybe try something like a 0.3mm gap. I like to have a little gap when using a mig, as I find it easier to get a flat tack with decent penetration. Think from memory Zeds are about 0.8mm thick panel steel, so a 0.3mm gap being filled with 0.6 wire should come out as a pretty low profile weld needing minimal finishing - depending on operators level of practice! I don't like 'airtight' gaps when I'm using a mig for panels, I find it harder to pick the sweet spot between blasting everything out the backside of the panel, and having a big lump sitting on one side with no penetration. And of course too big a gap equals more time stuffing around filling the hole, more heat input, and more time grinding... As you're starting to see above though, everyone has their own approach... Try fiddling with all the variables, find what works for you.
  3. Zeddophile

    MIG welding skills

    Apart from this bit - sounds like you're tacking right next to the last tack you did. Should be moving around - if you were welding a circular piece for example, and you did the first tack at 12 o'clock, your next one should be at perhaps 3 o'clock, then 6 o' clock, then 9, then you might go to 1.30, 4.30, 7.30 etc. Give each tack as long as possible to cool before you put another near it. Play with your gaps between pieces too, with a mig personally I'd probably look for around a half mm gap all round, and run a bit less wire speed to slightly bump up the heat (assuming 0.8mm wire) Aiming for a flat puddle with good penetration to minimise grinding. Different guys will like different setups, also depends on wire size and type. Some can run beads of weld, and get less distortion than those who tack, but tacking is generally safer. Can also hammer and dolly on the weld as it cools, to flatten it out a bit, but that gets painfully slow. Some guys will also use a damp rag to stop heat spreading through the panel. And if you go to a scrap metal place, you can often find a piece of copper plate that you can use behind the weld for a heat sink, and to stop the weld falling through (weld doesn't stick to copper). Practice is the big key, along with cleanliness of metal...
  4. Zeddophile

    240Z - Random Wiper Arm Parking Position

    How many wires to into a Zed wiper motor? On an Alfetta, there is one wire that receives power whenever the ignition is on. This power goes into a contact inside the gearbox part of the motor which rubs against a metal circular disc attached to the main worm gear, and that disc has a wedge shaped section cut out of it. Then there is another contact which goes into the motor itself that also runs on the metal disc. When the ignition is on, power runs through the metal disc, and rotates the motor until the contact reaches the section of the disc that is removed, which of course breaks the circuit and stops the motor - hence the 'park' position. No power on this wire means no self parking, likewise a buildup of old hard grease on those contacts will prevent current flow. The latter is probably more likely, happens to many things electrical, including the headlight switch contacts on my 2000 Discovery. Grease was so hard I had to scrape it off with a screwdriver, and then lightly sand the contacts - contact cleaner wouldn't budge it. On the topic of really slow wipers, it's usually pretty simple to speed them up, you just need to add relays on the input wires to the motor, one for each speed. Normally nothing wrong with the brushes, simple matter of voltage drop in the factory wiring that only gets worse over 40 years. An easy way to see if this will help is as follows: First, lift the wipers off the screen (so they don't drag across a dry screen and scratch it) Second, unplug the wiper motor, turn the ignition on, and determine with a test light if any of the wires on the car side of the plug have power (this will be the park wire, if it exists). Third, turn the wipers onto low speed, and find which terminal now has power to it, and remember which one it is. Fourth, plug the motor back in, and observe the speed at which the wipers are moving. Then run a decent piece of wire (4mm would be good) straight from the positive terminal of the battery into the wire you identified as the low speed power input (while wipers are still going) and they should speed up considerably if voltage drop is the issue. A couple of notes here: if you don't unplug the wiper motor while testing, you will often also see voltage with a test light at the earth wire, hence safest to unplug it. 12v straight to earth is less than ideal . Also, if you wish to see how much your high speed will increase by, after steps 1, 2 and 3, flick the switch to high speed, and you should find the low speed wire is no longer powered, but a different one is now powered. Repeat step 4, but obviously using high speed on the switch and the wire you determine to be its input. I went from wipers that you timed with an hourglass to wipers which are comparable to all but the most modern cars...
  5. Zeddophile

    Another why wont this work question :(

    Assuming the two wires I see at the dizzy only go between there and the coil, that sure ain't going to work. Without seeing the wires in person, this gets awkward, but anyway: I assume you've noticed that the coil has a positive and negative marked on it. On the positive terminal, you only have one wire, which should be the 12 volt feed from the car wiring. If I had to guess though, I would say the wire that is currently connected there goes to the module on the dizzy, and is the old points wire recycled... How does the ignition module get its power feed? As far as I can see, it doesn't. And if I've correctly identified the wire on the positive of the coil in that photo, then the taped up wire with the blue terminal on the coil negative should be the 12 volt feed from the car.... (or a tacho wire, but I can't remember if zeds pick up the tacho from the coil or not...) If the taped wire is indeed 12v, its on the wrong terminal... Easiest way to fix: unbolt the terminals from the coil, and swap them over, leaving wires still attached. This will leave you with two wires (taped wire and red wire) on the positive of the coil, and one on the negative. Now connect the other end of the red wire to the terminal marked 'B' on the module - this gives you the power feed to the module. The black wire now fitted to the negative of the coil needs to have it's other end attached to the 'C' terminal of the ignition module. This SHOULD work. However, if it doesn't, check that your power feed to the coil is still supplying 12v when you're cranking it over - I presume that car used to have a ballast resistor, so chances are quite good that you may be using a wire that is powered with the key at ignition, but which goes dead with the key at start.... Which is why a number of the previous posts have told you to run a temporary direct feed straight from battery positive to coil positive. IF you feed 12v straight from battery to coil positive, have terminal B on the module also connected to the coil positive, and you have terminal C on the module connected to the coil negative, and it still won't spark with your known good coil, either the pickup in the distributor or the module are stuffed.
  6. Disconnected how? Electrically disconnected, or removing a hose? I'm going to guess you are disconnecting a hose, and I'm also going to guess you didn't clean the fuel tank itself out when you cleaned the pickup. If that's the case, pull the pickup out again, and you'll more than likely find a new buildup of crud on it. Over that 5 or 10 mins of running, the pump sucks all the loose crud off the bottom of the tank, and even when the car is switched off, holds it there by suction, as the fuel lines are sealed up to the reg. Over time, the crud will slowly drop off the pickup by itself, but when you disconnect the hose at the pump, it allows air into the hose to the pickup, and most of the crud is washed off by the fuel in the pickup tube suddenly returning to the tank. This was a common fault with the early Land Rover Freelanders, the plastic lining on the inside of the tank would come off in thin sheets, and clog the pickup screen over a period of driving, until the car stopped. Half an hour later, you'd be able to drive again for a little while. The only solution was to completely drain the tank, remove the intank fuel pump, and stick your arm in with a rag and wipe all the loose crap out. I suspect a Zed tank doesn't have a big enough hole in it for this approach, so you may have to remove the tank, and either wash it out properly yourself, or take it to someone to be cleaned. Some radiator places will wash out fuel tanks for you. The bigger issue though, is when you say 'red gunk', I'm immediately thinking rust. The tank may not be worth saving, depending how bad it is....
  7. That particular sunroof looks kind of out of place on a Z to me, particularly if you're going the ZG replica route. Not quite sure what it is about it that makes it look funny to me, whether it's the width, or the location in the roof, or the fact that it's all glass - maybe even the angles of the photos from outside... Probably a combination of all of the above. As you kind of hinted in your first post, it looks more like something that you'd find on a 180sx, or something else from the early 90's...
  8. Zeddophile

    Max Jax car hoist

    Air is one possibility, but another may be weight distribution? Zeds don't have a lot of weight rear of the centreline, much like a particular type of hatchback I work on every day, and on two of our three hoists, said hatchbacks will also tend to get a bounce up on the way down. Can you move the car with respect to the hoist a bit, so as to have more rear overhang? Also check if there are guide blocks between the 'carriage' and the main upright, and lube them if necessary (and assuming it has them). When the blocks aren't lubed properly you can get a bouncing effect on the way down as well.
  9. Zeddophile

    Max Jax car hoist

    Are those hoses on the hydraulic unit as long as they look? The Maxjax is often criticised for having hoses just barely long enough to clear the car - looks like you don't have that problem at all! Looks like it comes with the spacers to bring the pad (and final lift) height up as well? Hopefully mine might arrive in the country soon, they're supposed to be getting more stock mid-end January....
  10. Zeddophile

    New Years question

    So if someone, somewhere in the world finds anything offensive for whatever reason, no-one else is permitted to see the funny side? That would pretty much write off every joke in existence... Still, I suppose in a world where political correctness has gone stark raving mad, it makes perfect sense. Down with humour.
  11. Zeddophile

    Black Smoke

    Maybe K-jet is 70-80, I haven't dealt with that system at all... After posting in this thread, I looked in the '280zx revs up in Park' thread, and someone there has quoted the manual as saying 250kpa (36psi) for the 280zx system. Diesels are in the thousands after the mechanical high pressure pump, but a lot of modern diesels use an electric pump in tank to supply the high pressure pump at 4 bar (or a bit more). Same as direct injection petrol engines actually, the fuel system in those is very similar - electric pump supplying around 4-5 bar up to a high pressure pump, which is often run off a camshaft.
  12. Just looking at your list of items replaced, I see a few missing that I'd investigate - might be useful if you can find another member locally who'll let you swap some parts off their car for diagnosis, or even has spare parts lying around. Also included some rambling thoughts off the top of my head, which may or may not lead to something. So, the list: Leads? Distributor cap? Rotor button? Have you checked that the advance mechanism in the distributor works correctly? Not the vacuum 'advance' (which is actually often a vacuum retard), that's fairly irrelevant. If you take the distributor cap off, you should be able to turn the rotor button around a little by hand, and then release it and it should spring back. Should also move smoothly, not sticky at all. Or the other (probably better) way to check, as mentioned above is to have the timing light on it, and check that the advance increases when you rev the motor up. Incidentally, I have a vague memory it is reasonably common for the mechanical advance in these distributors to seize, but I could be way off. If all of the above checks out, I'd see if someone can lend you an ignition module to try. Fuel pressure is also a good one to check, as has already been mentioned. And just for a random really simple check that probably will come to nothing, but may help - are you getting full throttle? Get someone (or a brick or broomhandle) to hold the accelerator pedal down to the floor, and see if you can open the throttle butterfly any further by hand. If you're really lucky, you're only getting 20 or 30% throttle opening. Actually recently instructed a guy at a clubsprint, and I drove his car for a session to show him the lines. First thing I noticed was the pedal felt funny, and it was pretty sluggish after about 4,000rpm, and didn't want to go over 5k. I knew the car should rev to almost 6k, so the first thing I did when we came back in was flip the bonnet up and have a look. Sure enough, the retaining clip for the cable was in the wrong spot, he was only getting about 75-80% throttle. Put it in the right place, and the thing flew in the next session, 5.5k easy as - he was rapt. He'd had the car for about 2 years, and always thought it didn't seem to go like he reckoned it should!
  13. Zeddophile

    Black Smoke

    One or two other things to look at, makes sure your air flow meter and coolant temp sensor are plugged in. And make sure the flap on the air flow meter isn't stuck - if a flapper air flow meter gets backfired though, it can bend the shaft the flap pivots on, and jam in one position. Lurch, not trying to be a smartass here, but are you sure about that? I thought from memory that L-jet systems should normally run 2.5 bar, which would be 36 psi under load, and obviously a bit lower at idle. 60 psi is 4 bar, that's up into modern diesel supply pump territory.... You haven't by any chance been thinking of oil pressure figures, or something like that?
  14. Zeddophile

    Max Jax car hoist

    Yep, that's what the guys with the Maxjax do, buy some grub screws in the correct thread and screw them down to flush when the hoist isn't fitted.
  15. Zeddophile

    Max Jax car hoist

    If you want to be able to move the posts and have clear floor, the link below is for what is used on the Maxjax hoist - a threaded insert rather than a stud. http://www.drillspot.com/products/43499/Wej-IT_PD-58_Drop-IN_Anchor I'll be interested to see what you think of your HAPP90 when it arrives, I had decided on a Maxjax myself, right up until the HAPP product was mentioned earlier in this thread. Seems to have a few advantages over the Maxjax. I actually sent an email to them last night to clarify a few points about it, but so far no reply...
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