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what engine should i use???


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#41 FuzzyDropbear

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 12:07 PM

Just to throw another 2 cents in, why not put in the RB20 for now and see if you like it? If you decide you need more torque, save up and put a RB25 in it? Would keep it in the budget for now and in the future it wouldn't be too hard to swap the RB25 in.

#42 zzzzed

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 01:55 PM

Just to throw another 2 cents in, why not put in the RB20 for now and see if you like it? If you decide you need more torque, save up and put a RB25 in it? Would keep it in the budget for now and in the future it wouldn't be too hard to swap the RB25 in.

.

Give the man a cigar.  ;D

#43 Scoota G

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 02:41 PM

Wheeling and Dealing it cost me $1900 to build a stock bottomed 302 Cleveland with all the good bits up top and $200 for a conversion kit that i heavily modified. That included extractors, exhaust, electronic ignition, transmission and blah blah blah. Think i've done around 450 hrs work on the car and would've cost heaps more if i had someone do it. As everyone says you can save heaps of bucksdoing it yourself. Having drifted to the dark side with the "heavy" V8 conversion i am still a big fan of my L28 triple carbed 260Z 2 Seater, i just love the sound of it revving.

#44 RB30X

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 07:46 PM

what most of you are missing is the lack off torque the rb20 has and when you drive one you will know what i mean


Give this man the whole box of cigars.

#45 gav240z

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 08:08 PM

Wheeling and Dealing it cost me $1900 to build a stock bottomed 302 Cleveland with all the good bits up top and $200 for a conversion kit that i heavily modified. That included extractors, exhaust, electronic ignition, transmission and blah blah blah. Think i've done around 450 hrs work on the car and would've cost heaps more if i had someone do it. As everyone says you can save heaps of bucksdoing it yourself. Having drifted to the dark side with the "heavy" V8 conversion i am still a big fan of my L28 triple carbed 260Z 2 Seater, i just love the sound of it revving.


Give this man some Cuban Cigars! :)

Since V8's are contraband lol....

#46 Scoota G

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 08:13 PM

Give this man some Cuban Cigars! :)

Since V8's are contraband lol....

Oh no you didn't!

#47 singhy

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 01:57 PM

Well said Mick. Though i still think even l29 with 170kw against a lightly boosted rb20 have no chance. You have 180kw at the wheels thats over 200kw at fly. The l29 will guzzle while the rb will return 10l.
Sorry bang for buck rb20 is unbeaten. Than for tiny bit more rb25 is best bang but the gearbox is bit more and install of it tiny bit harder. Mine had larger vg30turbo,chip, cooler, exhaust,cold intake and boost controller with 17psi. Estimated over 200rwkw. Made mince meat out of modified xy gtho. Thats basically dead stock rb20 internally.

U can make a rb23 using rb25 internals, bigger injectors, apexi power fc ,z32 airflow and a cam and u looking well over 250kw at the wheels on a budget rebuild. Rb23 has lot more tourqe and retains its fast reving characteristics unlike bit lazy rb25. Since u got ur rb20 for free wont be that exy. Though read up more details on rb23 on SAU i think there are few tiny details u need to know.

As for sump. I used original skyline one. Cut 20mm or so from the mounting all around. Rotated it 180 and welded it up. As for pick up i ordered new 200zr one from nissan $68. If u can find zr sump even easier but almost $600 new but no longer available.

Saying all that ive seen Peters creation in Robertos car and its simply artwork.
Music to the ears and only way to go if u want to have period correct high performance car or racing in a class where rb is not allowed.



yeh thanks for the info mate, i think i may actually have an 200zr oil kicking around actually ( i knew stripping and keeping car parts would come in handy hehe) .... the rb23 sounds like a pretty good idea actually, shouldnt be too hard ill look it up.

sounds as though the sump is pretty easy to mod and make it fit. cause im not a fan of the rb25 and the 26 is way to expensive for me , so rb20 with 25 internals would be good.

nah ill just mod thing 2+2 to all buggery, gonna try and mock up an s13 rear end as well.... if i do a period correct car, id get a 240z or 2 seater 260z. cheers

#48 singhy

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 02:00 PM

L28et with 300hp at the tyres is heaps of fun trust me! But ide just stick the rb in way cheaper and easy i still have to get my rb swap done in the other car (its only been a year dont rush me man haha) so i cant compare driveability yet but im sure it will be "nicer" i really want a rb26 but want and need.....


hopefully mine wont take too long haha

yeh thats true old school motors with high hp are always fun.... i had an old fairlane running a 250 2v motor and had around 280hp. and no one saw me coming when i flogged em at the lights hehe.

yeh rb26 way to pricey, spose we could all wait a few years till they go down in value but ehh.

#49 singhy

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 02:04 PM

Personally, I'd like an RB20 NA with triple carbs. You'd need to raise the compression and open up the ports, maybe a 25 head?
My S20 replica  8)

I'd prefer a turbo'd 20 over 25 purely for classes. Keeps you under 3.5L.
But would an SR20 be a better option? ???


yeh thats the reason for the rb20, cause the new rules coming out/already out? in NSW means i cant actually legally fit in a rb25/26 cause its over the hp limit  :'(

i was thinking an sr20, but then i got given the rb20.......... ive driven an s13 with an sr and come across a lightly modded rb20 and the rb blew it away hehe

#50 singhy

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 02:05 PM

Just to throw another 2 cents in, why not put in the RB20 for now and see if you like it? If you decide you need more torque, save up and put a RB25 in it? Would keep it in the budget for now and in the future it wouldn't be too hard to swap the RB25 in.


yeh i might do that and just try it, fitting and replacing engines arnt too hard to do, i spose i can just play around with a few motors then choose the best ones

#51 singhy

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 02:11 PM

i guess the best thing too do now is just chuck in the rb20 , then while its running and together i can build my self a turbo l28 slowly over uni semester (not like i need to study or anything hehe)

thanks everyone for the info, but i spose itll be all trial and error

#52 NZeder

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 05:35 PM

Have I missed something? So you say an RB25/RB26 can't be fitted as they are over the HP limit? Then you talk about a SR20 and even a L28 turbo. Both these engine can be made to make as much power as the stock output of a RB25/RB26 turbo setup.

Even a L28 can make as much power as a stock RB26DETT which is 206kW or 276HP and that is without the aid of forced induction.

So like I say have I missed something?



#53 singhy

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 07:30 PM

Have I missed something? So you say an RB25/RB26 can't be fitted as they are over the HP limit? Then you talk about a SR20 and even a L28 turbo. Both these engine can be made to make as much power as the stock output of a RB25/RB26 turbo setup.

Even a L28 can make as much power as a stock RB26DETT which is 206kW or 276HP and that is without the aid of forced induction.

So like I say have I missed something?


yeh you missed somthing hehe. the new NCOP laws for NSW have stated for motor swaps, that the engine that can be put in can only have 20% more power than the original motor from the car from factory. so i can only put in an engine that has less than 200 and bit hp. the new laws suck so much. which means rb25/26 is out of the question. i can get away with an l28 cause they look just like an l26 and no one will see. id register it first as non turbo, than do the turbo setup after haha. also the weight of the engine can only add/remove upto 10% of the original weight of the entire car.

the rules are so dumb, your allowed to modify the original engine as much as you want (as long as pollution gear/sound etc are legal) , which just defeat the purpose of the rules

i only found out about these rules about a week ago, otherwise id be putting in a vg30dett outa a 300zx wreck i have at home.

#54 Scoota G

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 08:16 PM

the new NCOP laws for NSW have stated for motor swaps, that the engine that can be put in can only have 20% more power than the original motor from the car from factory.

That rule applies only if you do not wish to get engineering approval. Capacity is the main part of it but if you're over 20%.... That would mean my L28 Powered Zed would need engineer cert for modified brakes and increase in power.

#55 KatoKid

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 08:21 PM

yeh you missed somthing hehe. the new NCOP laws for NSW have stated for motor swaps, that the engine that can be put in can only have 20% more power than the original motor from the car from factory.


singhy, have you actually read the NCOP VSB14 document or did someone just tell you that you can only have 20% more power? Here's a link to the engine section http://www.infrastru...1jan2011_v3.pdf

Clause 1.2 only states that engines with greater than 20% more power need to be certified, it doesn't say you cant do it.

I had a meeting with my engineer two weeks ago (Vic has been operating under VSB14 for nearly a year now) and he has no issues with me fitting an engine that is double the power of the original.

1.2 MODIFICATIONS REQUIRING CERTIFICATION UNDER LA CODES
The following is a summary of modifications that may be performed under Section LA:
 Fitting engines greater than 120% of original power and/or engine mass;
 Fitting performance engines;
 Fitting engines from non original equipment sources;
 Installing a supercharger or turbocharger; and
 Modifying the engine and engine components that results in an increase in engine power
of more than 20% and/or affects exhaust emissions.

Clause 2.13 is the key clause as this defines maximum engine capacity using a formula based on weight.

#56 KatoKid

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 08:22 PM

Beat me to it Scoota!

#57 Scoota G

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 08:26 PM

Beat me to it Scoota!

You're right on the money with your last post but KatoKid. I did read the whole document so don't anyone else be listening to your mate down the Local with the WRX, get it straight from the engineer you will be working with and work out solutions that will suit you both.

#58 singhy

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 08:30 PM

singhy, have you actually read the NCOP VSB14 document or did someone just tell you that you can only have 20% more power? Here's a link to the engine section http://www.infrastru...1jan2011_v3.pdf

Clause 1.2 only states that engines with greater than 20% more power need to be certified, it doesn't say you cant do it.

I had a meeting with my engineer two weeks ago (Vic has been operating under VSB14 for nearly a year now) and he has no issues with me fitting an engine that is double the power of the original.

1.2 MODIFICATIONS REQUIRING CERTIFICATION UNDER LA CODES
The following is a summary of modifications that may be performed under Section LA:
 Fitting engines greater than 120% of original power and/or engine mass;
 Fitting performance engines;
 Fitting engines from non original equipment sources;
 Installing a supercharger or turbocharger; and
 Modifying the engine and engine components that results in an increase in engine power
of more than 20% and/or affects exhaust emissions.

Clause 2.13 is the key clause as this defines maximum engine capacity using a formula based on weight.



looks as though my local engineer doesnt know his rules, i went and had a chat and he stated 'it is not possible anymore to fit blah blah blah' 'it needs to be under so and so etc'.

Thanks for clearing all that up , wow i really should read up more on stuff.

just a curiousity, how much was your engineering certificate cost you???

if its alot, ill still stick to not having a certificate, because im short on funds atm

thanks again guys

#59 KatoKid

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 08:39 PM

just a curiousity, how much was your engineering certificate cost you???

if its alot, ill still stick to not having a certificate, because im short on funds atm


Mine will be around $1,200.

Each engineer is different, interprets the rules differently and will either make or break a conversion based on their own opinion.

If you're tight for money then the decision is pretty well made for you........

#60 singhy

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 08:47 PM

Mine will be around $1,200.

Each engineer is different, interprets the rules differently and will either make or break a conversion based on their own opinion.

If you're tight for money then the decision is pretty well made for you........


esshh, looks like an r20det for now, when i actually get a REAL job and not casual job inbetween uni, i may go down the engineering approval way (or wait for my bro to finish uni, hes doing mechanical and thinking about joining engineering approval jobs thingo hehe)




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