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what engine should i use???


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#1 singhy

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 09:09 PM

hey guys, i have a 260z 2+2 that i am currently building.

ive been looking into the NSW rules for engine modifications/replacements and was wondering what you guys reckon would fit under these rules.

ive got a choice between , l28,  rb20det, vg30det.

fitting the rb and vg is no problems, but the the rules say different haha. id rather these because the the power out of em stock is quick good.

but to just get around the rules i may just fit up an L series....

so i was mainly wondering how much power can you actually get out of a L series ( defs be turbo l28 if i do)???????????????

and a comparsion to everyday cars would be good to

cheers guys.

#2 Scoota G

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 09:32 PM

2+2 = 1200 kilos X 5 for National code 6 Litre maximum capacity. What about a Chev? I just fitted a 302 Cleveland to my 2+2 and using an engine of the same year model means emission laws may not apply pre july 1976. Aluminium manifold and heads would bring it back down to L Series weightish and the vehicle will need brakes capable of stopping it from 35 KPH in a distance of 12.5 meters. 10mm Clearence is required around all of the motor. Or have i said too much?

#3 luvemfast

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 09:45 PM

A well sorted L series will out perform you easily.
But if you want more refined, rb25det.

#4 pauly_adams

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 10:27 AM

it depends on what you want, if you want torque stick with the L28, a L28et is awsome i just done this and it goes hard as, if you want fuel economy use rb20det it will also bolt in with the only mod of the sump( if you want more info on this pm me ) the vg30 needs mods and if you go to the effort of modding it you might as well put a better bigger engine.

#5 thriller

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 10:42 AM

RB20 is a bit gutless... The SR20 has more torque from factory. SR is a fair bit lighter too.

#6 fluegel

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 10:43 AM

[quote author=singhy link=topic=12058.msg123483#msg123483 date=1354100998]
hey guys, i have a 260z 2+2 that i am currently building.

ive been looking into the NSW rules for engine modifications/replacements and was wondering what you guys reckon would fit under these rules.

ive got a choice between , l28,  rb20det, vg30det.

What is wrong with the L26 I have just got my260 2+2 going with its original block and slightly higher compression head, the engine is running better than ever and I am over the moon. Had fun the other day shitting of hot hatches etc on the freeway. I think it is sacrelege to put a foreign engine in a Z I wouldn't object to an L28 but a ford or holden V8, you might as well buy a holden or ford. If the other two engines are optional to Zs they should be ok but apart from that how fast do you want to go.

Richard

#7 neRok

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 10:55 AM

I'm having a great time with the 350 chev in mine. I bought it that way, would have preferred a windsor truth be told.

If you read VSB14, which all the states are pretty much following, I think you can swap in engines from the same manufacturer with up to 20% increase in cubic capacity and power of the best engine in the model. So you may be able to swap in an RB with little drama.

As an example, VN Grp A commodores made 215kw, so you can swap 240kw LS1 into a v6 executive without needing engineering.

#8 zzzzed

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 11:38 AM

RB20 is a bit gutless... The SR20 has more torque from factory. SR is a fair bit lighter too.

.

Compared to a stock l26 an rb20det is far from gutless.
My rb20 will have around 200 rwkw and sti be drivable. You don't need much more than that in an s30

#9 singhy

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 11:56 AM

all suspension/braking mods will be done, (my bro reckons i can mod to fit an s13 front end, strut tower, running z32 brakes, hes used to custom stuff like that) ..... well id say an l28 is by far the easiest, but overall a rb would be best.

i used to/still build and restore older fords so im pretty over ford v8s so i want somthing different.

has anyone made a l28 with the ld crank?????? how well do they go+turbo

#10 singhy

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 12:02 PM

2+2 = 1200 kilos X 5 for National code 6 Litre maximum capacity. What about a Chev? I just fitted a 302 Cleveland to my 2+2 and using an engine of the same year model means emission laws may not apply pre july 1976. Aluminium manifold and heads would bring it back down to L Series weightish and the vehicle will need brakes capable of stopping it from 35 KPH in a distance of 12.5 meters. 10mm Clearence is required around all of the motor. Or have i said too much?



yeh ive looking at those rules, they basically throw the vg30dett out the window (300hp factory too much) and too heavy.

the rb just scrapes in with the laws as they have 212hp and are slightly heavier.

the l28 turbo shouldnt need any certs etc..

i also have a VG30et at home that would fit these laws aswell...possiblity????? never driven a car with one of these





#11 Fairlady Z

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 12:30 PM

RB all the way if after power economy and reliability. Had an rb20Det in my 260 with vg30 turbo. few mods and boost and be hard pressed for even stroker L28 with tripples comming near it.

200rwKw quite easy with rb20DET with light modding. with bit more 240-250 is relatively easy. and still return around 11l per 100km.  purr like kitten every time you hit the ignition. Best mod I did to my 260Z followed by power steer and LSD.

Though my 3x 240z projects going all 3 way. 1st Stock, 2nd L series mod and 3rd RB26DETT. so have all 3 worlds.

if not daily duties or power hungry than mild modded L series will be sufficient for any S30.

#12 zzzzed

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 12:38 PM

RB all the way if after power economy and reliability. Had an rb20Det in my 260 with vg30 turbo. few mods and boost and be hard pressed for even stroker L28 with tripples comming near it.

200rwKw quite easy with rb20DET with light modding. with bit more 240-250 is relatively easy. and still return around 11l per 100km.  purr like kitten every time you hit the ignition. Best mod I did to my 260Z followed by power steer and LSD.

Though my 3x 240z projects going all 3 way. 1st Stock, 2nd L series mod and 3rd RB26DETT. so have all 3 worlds.

if not daily duties or power hungry than mild modded L series will be sufficient for any S30.




Good one Reece. Hahah

#13 Fairlady Z

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 02:18 PM

^^^Shut up Micheale!!!  ;D :P

#14 singhy

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 04:22 PM

i know the power you can get out of an rb engines.

but with L series im at a loss ? how much work is needed to get any decent power?

if you turbo an L28 , can you just use the factory exaust manifold and make a flange to suit a turbo? how much is a turbo manifold to buy? and is the n42 head sufficient? or do i need to find a p90 head???




#15 zzzzed

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 04:40 PM

Seriously after just puting an rb20 in my 240z. I think it is easyer than turboing a na L series.
To turbo an l series you will need to decide if you want to go suck through carby or blow through fuel injection. If fuel injection, you have to worry about if your injectors, ecu, and fuel pump are up to the task. You will also need to think about changing to a modified locked dizzy or find a propper turbo distributor.
Turbo manifolds come up from time to time and usual sell for around $200. You could make up a jay pipe and run it off the standard manifold.
Once the turbo is mounted you have to run oil and coolant lines to it.

So it's not quite as simple as bolting a turbo on and bobs your uncle. It takes a bit of planing.
But it has its rewards.

Mick


#16 Zedman240®

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 04:44 PM

Most important question is how much $$ do you want to spend?

#17 saxon

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 04:54 PM

stick with L series. A well worked L series with triple carbs has a cool factor that other engines dont have when put in a Z.

#18 gav240z

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 06:19 PM

It really all depends on what you want, a vintage racer feel would be to stick with the L-series. I love these engines, easy to work on, sound great and aesthetically look good in the engine bay. I also find them relatively good on fuel too!

Another reason why I will more than likely keep the L-series is that you won't get hassled or defected by the Police. If you pop the hood and it's a stock looking L-series I think you'll get less hassle myself. Even though I've been in an L-series still on twin SU's that produced 280HP and it was absolutely nuts!

You're not going to make gobs of power though without spending some time and money on it. It's definitely not an economical way to making power.

If you are interesting in building a serious L-series speak with Peter Mac on here, there are various threads showing the work he's done with them and power he's obtained but it won't come cheap.

If you like the idea of a turbo in a vintage car like the 240z then an SR20, RB or similar would be best. However if you want old school muscle feel a V8 would be awesome.

To  be honest these cars are so light that you don't need massive power to make them go, I would like to see what a 13B or 20B turbo would be like in these, I know in my FD which is about 200KG heavier it feels very very quick, I imagine a single turbo 13B with say a GT35R making about 400-450HP would be absolutely insane and wouldn't cost a fortune.

The other advantage of the rotary is low weight to power ratio, you could stick that well behind the front wheels and have an almost MR drivetrain layout. However it depends on what you can live with :). Rotary's do use a good bit of fuel.

Again it all comes down to your build direction, I love the old L-banger but it is dated now.

Perhaps ask for someone to take you for a spin in their car to get a feel for it? I know after being in a properly worked L-series powered Z I was like 'no need for engine swaps' :).

#19 singhy

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 07:26 PM

Seriously after just puting an rb20 in my 240z. I think it is easyer than turboing a na L series.
To turbo an l series you will need to decide if you want to go suck through carby or blow through fuel injection. If fuel injection, you have to worry about if your injectors, ecu, and fuel pump are up to the task. You will also need to think about changing to a modified locked dizzy or find a propper turbo distributor.
Turbo manifolds come up from time to time and usual sell for around $200. You could make up a jay pipe and run it off the standard manifold.
Once the turbo is mounted you have to run oil and coolant lines to it.

So it's not quite as simple as bolting a turbo on and bobs your uncle. It takes a bit of planing.
But it has its rewards.

Mick



so essentially you would be spending $$$ just to get the same power out of an stockish rb20det.

did you have any clearance issues fitting the rb into the zed? what gearbox did you use? and did you need any sort of certificates or anything?

cheers



#20 singhy

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 07:29 PM

Most important question is how much $$ do you want to spend?


well least is best. when i build/restore old fords i spend usually around $5000 all together (i do everything at home eg paint nd panel , rebuilds/performance) and i would try any buy everything 2nd hand.... i got the rb20det for free off a mate and have 2 L28s at home and a couple of VGs so dont need to spend much for the motors.




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