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Gordo

Redline Gear oil

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Anyone use the Redline lightweight shockproof gear oil in there zed. Having just bought the stuff it's like liquid gold, but I am told its the best stuff.

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HI

Yeah i run Redline in motor, trans and diff.

Get what you pay for im afraid.

Have also been told Amsoil is pretty damn good too

but havent tried it yet.

You heard much about it Pete ?

 

Paul

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I run Redline MT-90 in my gearbox and it shut it up very nicely. My brother runs the lightweight shockproof oil in his skyline (RP71C gearbox) and it loves it, cops a real hammering too!

 

For anyone playing along at home make sure you read the warnings on the bottle before buying, especially the superlight shockproof oil! If it overheats it crystallises and isn't really crash hot for a synchromesh gearbox anyway.

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In most of the cars everyone has here normal oils are more than enough.

 

My circuit Z ran standard diff oil in a locked R180, was only changed when the diff was welded up and no problems for 10 years or so

 

Gearbox oil was a good quality standard oil, no need for fancy smurf's blood stuff. Again only changed when the gearbox was pulled out, so three times in 15 years, and again apart from the usual stuffed synchro on 2nd I had no gearbox pproblems, especially if yoou take your time on the changes, thay are old gearboxes that can't be smashed through the gears.

 

The only fancy oil I used was Goe Gibbs Driven for the motor and it was changed every second event with a standard filter.

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I have it in the SR20 box of my Silvia (71C type box), and honestly it was a night and day difference. Used to crunch 1-2 often and was pretty notchy, now it only crunches on very cold mornings when I forget to be super super gentle straight out of the driveway. Still feels like shit, but just very very less shit.

 

I doubt it would make a difference if your gearbox feels fine already, but if it feels bad enough that you're saving for a new one, then it might prolong the inevitable for quite some time. I hear the WRX guys use it a lot too.. And you know what they say about WRX boxes.

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Had been using Redline LWSP, but am now using NEO Ester based gear oil.

 

Getting better results both in use and teardown.

Not a low cost product.

 

If anyone in Brisbane is after bottles of Redline, i can supply

Quarts and bulk pack.

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Thanks for the feed back Guys,  I have read on other forums that this oil really works well. As Peter says in racing situations it will give better performance , and a longer life to the gears. Cheers.

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I use the lightweight shockproof in my twin synchro R33 box behind the RB engine. Works very well...very happy with it.

 

CHeers

 

Jamo

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I mistakenly put 300mls of GL5 in my box a month ago, from my research this is a bad thing for the brass syncros. So I'll drop it all and run the 'smurfs blood'  ;D hopefully it'll get the box to live a little longer. I saw the engine oil and started thinking maybe it could be a good thing to run too?

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Ask them what zinc content it has, say compared to other "high performance oils" for engines, that they have done tests alongside of.

 

We need higher zinc levels than modern spec oils provide.

6k-8k ppm is good, EPA dont like it.

Joe Gibbs

LAT

Brad Penn

Some older Penzzoils

Are good

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Which Redline suits a zed rally close ratio box Heavy Shockproof or Lightweight shockproof?

 

 

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Im about to put redline in. i have a question on capacity for 260z box.

 

Do you put 1.5L in or 2L ?The service book says 1.5, but elsewhere i read 2L. is 2L a problem or is this a strict thing? looking for maximum protection (least wear)?

 

Its hard also as i do it on ramps so you need to keep an eye on the bottle level to know how much you put in. and no dipstick from what i can see.

 

cheers

 

 

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Im about to put redline in. i have a question on capacity for 260z box.

 

Do you put 1.5L in or 2L ?The service book says 1.5, but elsewhere i read 2L. is 2L a problem or is this a strict thing? looking for maximum protection (least wear)?

 

Its hard also as i do it on ramps so you need to keep an eye on the bottle level to know how much you put in. and no dipstick from what i can see.

 

cheers

It's a 2person job, use a 3' bit of garden hose, a funnel, you get under a safe secured xar, stick hose end in box, have mate get 1.5 litres as quick as pissible into funnel, stop, let all drain down, THEN, have him pour small amount, let drain, repeat repeat, when you can feel it ALMOST at bottom edge of hole, use pinky finger, one more small bit, drain down hose, screw in filler plug, do not overtighten, and job done.

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It's a 2person job, use a 3' bit of garden hose, a funnel, you get under a safe secured xar, stick hose end in box, have mate get 1.5 litres as quick as pissible into funnel, stop, let all drain down, THEN, have him pour small amount, let drain, repeat repeat, when you can feel it ALMOST at bottom edge of hole, use pinky finger, one more small bit, drain down hose, screw in filler plug, do not overtighten, and job done.

Yep that's how I do it.

 

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For high zinc engine oil,  have a look at  OTECH LUBRICANTS at Narangba north of Brisbane they are on the interweb.

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For high zinc engine oil,  have a look at  OTECH LUBRICANTS at Narangba north of Brisbane they are on the interweb.

There is high, and there is HIGH!

 

Stuff like LAT, Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs, is all HIGH, ie from 5000ppm and up.

 

Oils conforming to current SF spec for normal use, as approved by various EPA bodies will allow 50 to 150 ppm

Which for our upper head valveteains, is not good enough.

 

Links to OTECH product spec sheets please?

The majority of oil bottlers won't even tell you how little zinc is contained!

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