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Johnboy

Clutch Recomendations.

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Hi all,

 

I am in the market for a new clutch want so recomendations and feedback on what you are using?

 

all info is appreciated.

 

Johnboy

 

Ps. Currently the car is ment to have a "centre force clutch kit" as per the ad when purchased.

 

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Thanks Benny,

 

The car is mostly for street cruising and the relaxed club trips where we allways take it easy!!

 

Part Number Alternate Number Description Price

NSK-6052HD 225-63HD 225mm Nissan $235.82

You have selected Australia Wide as shipping method. Cost: $60.00

 

Sydney CBD $25.00

Australia Wide: $60.00

 

Any othe recomendations?

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My bro has run an HD Exeedy on his 1600 for longer than I can remember, great price and long lasting. I use a HD organic clutch from Stuart Wilkins Motorsport, not sure on price but it been working great for 2.5yrs on track and street. About the same pedal pressure as the exeedy.

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Hey Johnboy, what'd you end up going with?

 

I'm in the same boat at the moment, looking for a new Stage 2 /HD clutch, and probably going to go with an exedy.

Have just bought a 240z with an L28, pulled the gearbox and clutch out, but can't figure out what I've got exactly. The clutch assembly measures 47mm, but is there anyway I can determine what model the gearbox came from, and what model the clutch collar came from too? (previously owner isn't sure)

 

Thanks in advance for anyone that can help me  :)

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Not sure if anyone is interested but I'm in the process of upgraded to the SR20 gearbox and in the process I'm going to upgrade my flywheel and clutch too.

 

So far from what I've found, the RB25 R33 flywheel is a straight bolt on and will work with the L series starter motor; I've purchased a RB25 R33 EXEDY heavy duty clutch; so far it looks like it's going to be a straight swap and all I will need to do is use a bearing carrier that will suit the different height of the R33 setup -  the Z pressure plate is 47mm and the R33 is approx 54mm.

 

The clutch is 240mm in diameter and is rated to 472 hp (flywheel) so it should be more than enough. Have the option to go for a heavy duty cushion button that's rated to 550hp but decided to stick with the heavy duty instead. Got the flywheel for $100 ($49.50 to machine it) from a wrecker and the clutch cost me $381. If all goes well, once I increase the boost to 21psi, I'm hoping I'll have about 400-450hp at the flywheel. Currently running 12psi and it breaks traction in 3rd under acceleration...... fun to drive  ;D

 

Hopefully the SR box will cope, I don't abuse it so hopefully it will be ok. Currently running a 280zx box and it feels like it's ready to let go so I'm hoping to do the upgrade very soon, just need to get a shortened tail shaft and modify the gearbox mount and it's ready to go in.

 

Will let you know how it goes.

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Sounds very interesting, I'd like to hear more once you have it fitted.

 

470HP will be more than most Zeds require but this could be a great performance upgrade. Would the pedal pressure be any different to a stockish Z setup?

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Are the ebay clutches any good? There are a few on there and all seem to be from Australian sellers.

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Well I finally got around to putting it all together and so far so good.

 

Got diagnosed with non hodgkins lymphoma earlier at the start of the year so haven't had much time to get out in the garage and tinker with the Z; anyway, finally got around to getting it all together.

 

First thing to mention is the RB25 flywheel is slightly lighter and it's not a snug fit on the crank shaft like the original flywheel. I learnt this the hard way when trying to line it up by eye; after putting it all back together, there was a vibration coming through the drive line - turns out lining a flywheel by eye is not the way to go!  :o Knowing this at the time, my stubbornness got the better of me and I did it anyway.

 

So after pulling it all apart again, I made a dowel for the crank shaft and flywheel. The L28 crank has a 6.0mm hole for a dowel and the RB25 has a 6.3mm hole for a dowel. So I machined a dowel out of high tensile steel and away I went.

 

The dowel still doesn't get the flywheel perfectly aligned but I managed to align it by using an input shaft with a spacer to center the flywheel. From there I tightened the bolts and put it all back together, cautiously using 'by eye' measurement again  ::). I started her up and the vibration has disappeared!

 

The clutch feels a little heavier than my previous clutch but not by much at all; I can't remember what brand it was but it has a yellow pressure plate and was a heavy duty clutch.

 

I used the 35mm bearing carrier that was already in there and it works well; there's isn't much slack/play but it's not holding pressure on the pressure plate fingers. I did shorten the slave cylinder pushrod to compensate for the height 7mm difference of the pressure plate; I'm not sure if there are shorter bearing carriers - I was working with what I had.

 

I'm going to take it out tonight if the weather is good, will let you know if it holds up. My previous clutch would let go under boost, so hopefully it doesn't happen now. Will post an update later tonight if I take it out for a drive.

 

Marc.

 

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After reading how this fly wheel is fitted, if you are going to drive it take somebody in another car to follow you, when the fly vibrates and breaks off there is a good chance it explode the clutch and all those parts spinning fast will come though the floor and ebbed them into your roof lining, if you have your legs in the way they will take them out as well, the extra person will be needed to stop the bleeding as you will only have minutes to live if you get a main blood vane, this is why drag racing as shatter shields over the gearbox, seen a few go in the early days of drag racing.

 

If you value your life and legs get it fitted in a machine shop, it has to be exact.

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Fair comments; was only trying to add a bit of humor to the post by saying 'line it up by eye'....

 

I'm getting a shim made up to go over the crank and make it a snug fit.

 

There's no longer any vibration coming through since I put the dowel in and centered it, but I'm planning to put the shim in either way.

 

Just wanted to get it all together to see if the combination works as it's a fairly straight forward upgrade.

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In the good old days we had no idea a cast iron flywheel would fly apart when it reached certain revs, I have personally seen the results of a flywheel and clutch explode in a 32 ford, the inside was covered in blood and had parts in the roof lining, with a big hole though  the floor, lucky he was alright as there was an ambulance at the track.

 

We all do stupid things when we were young, he is a picture of my leg after flying metal hit it, while the doctor was explaining what he could do to try and fix it  and it wasn't going to look very good, I asked him "Can I keep my leg" which I felt was more important than looks.

I know you will want to try it, but vibration will get worse once the speed and load come on, it doesn't take long for steel to break once that starts. you may get a way with but is it worth the risk.

 

My stupid injury was from rolling a ride on, it took me a year to walk again.

 

Warning NSFW if you are a little girl and don't like blood.

post-3209-14402371243_thumb.jpg

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That's a nasty injury mate! Glad you recovered.

 

I understand your concern with the flywheel and believe me, as soon as I felt the vibration on the initial install, I stopped the motor and pulled the box out and removed the flywheel.

 

I will take it for an easy run tonight to see if it starts vibrating. If so, then back in the garage until I get the shim.

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Thanks for the nice photos Patch , ya c0ck head!

 

NSFW tag would have been nice...!!!

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Sorry Lurch didn't think it was that bad, the cuts on the top far left are actually the worse they cut though tendons, the 2 on the right only cut though muscle. 

But that s what it will look like if it explodes and comes though the floor.

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Took the Z out for a test run, no vibration as such but there seems to be some resonance at 3,500rpm. Anything below or above and there's nothing, engine is smooth??? I gave it a few hard dumps and the clutch is holding up a treat, so I'm happy with the combo.

 

I've stripped it down again, going to take the flywheel to Duggan Balancing to see if the flywheel is out of whack. I bought the RB25 flywheel from a wrecker and only had it surfaced. Also going to take my original flywheel as well to see if I'm better off maching the 225mm lip out of it (to allow for the 240mm RB clutch) and redrilling it to suit the RB25 pressure plate.

 

I'm almost there.... I can see the the light at the end of the tunnel.

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Finally got around to getting the flywheel balanced and a shim made up for it; chemo treatments have been taking it out of me lately but on the mend so it's all worth it I guess.

 

I got the shim made up at a local engineering shop, unfortunately couldn't do it on my little lathe. The original L28 flywheel has an 80mm boss and the RB25 is 81.5mm; had the shim made out of high tensile steel and pressed into the flywheel. It bolts up perfectly and runs a dream, no vibration and no resonance.

 

As for the clutch, I wound the boost up to 16psi tonight and the clutch held up a treat, no slipping - plenty of wheel spin though  ;D Need a new set of tyres.

I was a little reluctant to up the boost to 21psi, no grip with the current tyres so I think I'll wait til I get some new rubber. Very confident that it will hold up.

 

In fifth gear at 60mph, pushed the loud pedal and it just launched..... hit 90mph in no time at all with no slipping...... the previous clutch use to let go when I tried this; thumbs up, the RB25 flywheel and RB25 HD EXEDY clutch works a treat.

 

In terms of cost:

 

RB25DET Flywheel - $100 (2nd hand from a wrecker)

Flywheel Balance - $90 (A bit rich if you ask me)

Flywheel Surface - $50

RB25DET EXEDY Heavy Duty Clutch - $381 (rrp is over $700!)

Hi tensile metal shim for flywheel - $40

 

Not a bad upgrade for under $700 and it's rated to 472hp (according to EXEDY).

 

Marc.

 

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