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pauly_adams

how much power can a auto take

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hey all,

 

does anyone have any idea on how much power the factory 3 speed from a 280zx can take, im just about to get the last of my turbo parts this week and my auto is in awsome condition and i realy dont want to kill it

 

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I have a 260 motor with a 240k auto hooked up to a nissan patrol G60 gearbox driving the 4x4 transfer case on a 4x4 earth mover, crane, forklift beast creation I built years ago, Machine lifts 2 ton and would weigh that.

I have destroyed one complete front diff, which is my rear stare drive, broken about 8 axles and broken drive shafts removing tree stumps and digging, wrecked the motor now but still have the same auto in it after about 7 years of hard work. So you could say they are strong.

Auto's are cheap for these as every body wants a manual, I have a spare 280c box sitting here.

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I can't speak to how strong they are, I wouldn't know.

But, the same applies to any auto box

Keep the fluid and filter clean, serviced regularly and make sure the transmission can dissipate the heat.

Fit a good quality cooler.

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Same gearbox was also fitted to MQ Patrols, and the 4spd is used in VLs etc. A shift kit would help it, someone was offering them on here.

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ive already got onto rb30x lol, and a oil cooler will be added. only thing left is engine management, haltech e6x or vl loom dizzy and ecu with greddy piggy back ecu which actully controls everthing

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i have a very worked over one with big converter and all the race parts with big sump from kees , i ran 9.90 and 139 so i think there pretty strong , i spent 5k on this one , if any one wants it its for sale for $1500 ..

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if i hadnt already done mine i would be all over this like a fat kid on a cup cake, mine now has HD clutch packs, bands etc all brand new as i was going to use it to tow, i will be looking into a new torque convertor as im sure the facotry wont last long. its not a power hungry car but it will have a couple of hundred poneys and a bit more torque. the only concern i have is the crap design of the n42 head, it is far from ideal but it also has just been rebuilt with new valves seats etc so im keen to use it for the moment. as for my setup it will be

 

sard 550cc top feed injectors which are 2 months old

holset hx35w turbo charger

f54 turbo manifold from the states

f54 block with dished pistons, N42 head both of which where rebuilt under 30k km

engine management, Rb30e wiring, dizzy, greddy piggy back ecu in combination with rb30e ecu, or haltech e6x ecu or possibly sprint 500

front mount intercooler depending on air temps

 

it will be running to start with 8-12 psi and once everthing is clocked in and tuned i might try to get to 15-17 psi but im fairly certain that the n42 head will not allow this without major timing retading.

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i have a very worked over one with big converter and all the race parts with big sump from kees , i ran 9.90 and 139 so i think there pretty strong , i spent 5k on this one , if any one wants it its for sale for $1500 ..

 

Keas autos are the bomb, this price is a steal!!!

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yep the converter was $2000 by it self , has billet input shaft and Kevlar bands all the cool parts , full manual shift as well with trans brake , not really a road car trans , but lodes of fun at the track

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yes my one has one on it and only small mods

Care to elaborate? Is it just getting the linkage to the box setup with the correct radius/throw?

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Its more so about making a custom bracket that bolts to your auto that allows the B&M cable to work the factory gear selector on the side of the box. Apart from that it just bolts onto your trans tunnel and you're away.

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Sounds simple, but im still not 100%. Example, if the B&M cable push/pulls 10mm during gear changes and the factory auto gear selector moves 15mm, this isnt going to work. Or are the travel amounts the same and im thinking too hard?

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I don't know what to say about that, it's just an exercise in logic. Like move the position of the cable up or down the shift lever to match or make up a new lever (the one that connects to the gearbox)

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Sounds simple, but im still not 100%. Example, if the B&M cable push/pulls 10mm during gear changes and the factory auto gear selector moves 15mm, this isnt going to work. Or are the travel amounts the same and im thinking too hard?

 

I understand your concern but if you think about it, B&M make this shifter to suit almost all cars, so they're pretty confident you can make it work. If the factory bracket on the auto only lets the cable travel 15mm and the B&M travels 10mm (using your example) you just lower the point that the cable attaches to the linkage on the trans to minimise the radius of the circle and thus, less travel (10mm).

 

I had a Pro Ratchet shifter in one of my VL Turbos and its was wicked for quick shifts while battling the wheel to keep the car straight. Not sure if I'd like it in a street car though.  :o

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I am going to fit one into the V8 conversion i am doing because the transmission mounting point gets in the road of the shifting rod. But C4 fitting is store bought. I'm sure they had shifters to suit Jatco on ebay but.

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