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Megasquirt 3 on RB CAS


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#1 foodie

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 08:19 PM

Hey guys,

I have read a lot about the megasquirt 3 and it really is a nice bit of kit.

What I am unsure of is the ability to use your standard RB25/20 cas sensor.  Some say yes, some say no, some say yes but change X/Y/Z

Anyone in here with experience?  I am on a wild Google chase for correct information before I lay out some $ on a prebuilt ecu.  Otherwise I am looking at the sprint 500 haltech, which will do the job, but not as cool as a megasquirt.

Cheers!


#2 peter mc

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 08:40 PM

lol not as cool as megacrap lol man there the most nasty crap thing iv ever tryed to tune 
the sprint is light years better

#3 foodie

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 09:55 AM

Happy to be talked out of it :)

Currently running an rb20det with microtech mt-8 which I think is flakey.    Goal is to build a reliable strong rb25 that can push the 260 to mid 12sec quarters.

The sprint 500 is my next choice.

Anything else I should think of?


#4 nizm0zed

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 10:13 AM

I wouldn't use the Megasquirt.
I found mine difficult to work with, and the tech support on the forum assumes you are a electronics engineer with a masters degree doing programming on the side for fun.

While it will work, you'll get better results if you spend a bit more on the Haltech.
The after sales support is also about 11ty billion times better.
You can actually call and speak to a tech person on the phone.
try that with Megasquirt and see how far you get.
Changing to a Haltech was the best move i made with my car.

#5 Mr Camouflage

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 07:18 PM

Megasquirt is a open source community designed ECU, there is no one to call for support. You should be aware of this before deciding whether to use one or go with a an ECU designed and built by a company, like Haltech or Mictotech that support their product.

Sure you can buy pre-assembled Megasquirt units, but they are not backed by a company that designed them.

#6 foodie

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 09:53 PM

I am new to efi - but I have been working with computers for 20 years.

What I do and don't understand about the sprint 500, is how does it control a 6 cylinder.

I understand wasted spark, igniting on the exhaust stroke, but when I try to find information on the injection, it looks like 2 cylinders will inject fuel at the same time, one on the powerstroke and one on the exhaust.

4 ignition and 4 fuel - how does that work on a 6 cyl?  It must, as many are doing it, but I cannot read or see a diagram for it.

I like the idea of megasquirt, after all, for $100 I can get a phone with more processor power than any ecu on the market, which makes me cringe when by default many cannot run independent spark and injection per cyl.



#7 peter mc

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 11:02 PM

well spend some money and buy a real ECU and see real power and get a real. megacrap and sprints are for people that know no better  , there Base products the sprint is a cheep thing that is OK to make it run ,,  that's all it does 

#8 foodie

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 11:39 PM

well spend some money and buy a real ECU and see real power and get a real. megacrap and sprints are for people that know no better  , there Base products the sprint is a cheep thing that is OK to make it run ,,  that's all it does


Get to the point and suggest something :)

#9 peter mc

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 12:38 AM

1 motec 
2 autronic
3  haltech pro
that's the order, you pic one  that you can pay for
motec is by far the best race ECU  in Australia  and will run any moter , better than any 1 hear needs  with the best service i have ever had , we had a problem at the dyno on a Saturday at 3pm and we got tech support from the man who built the unit  and he has the ability to run your program and tell you the problem with your setup and get you back to work with in 1 hour ,,, best by far .
                                               
autronic is as good as it gets but has to be set up by some one that knows his stuff,  tuning power is very good built for pros  very good setup 

and haltech lots of cool things now  with easy tuning softwear and good backup from peter the bloke knows his stuff


#10 nizm0zed

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 10:43 AM

Re, injector drivers and coil drivers, most ECU's dont need to use all 4.
In my haltech, it has 4 injector drivers, but i only use 2 (3 injectors batched together)
It could also be setup as 2 injectors per driver, using 3 drivers.
In some ECU's it'll sit dormant, in others, you can assign it as a digital or PWM output for a custom application.

Best to read up on the specs of the ECU you chose.

#11 Zedman240®

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 11:12 AM

If you don't have too many $$ to spend, a better cheap unit would be a Wolf 3D. You can find them on ebay from time to time for around 4-500 dollars depending on the model. Earlier versions are a bit crude but I had it working well with a L28 with ITB's. Current version can run a 6 cylinder engine sequentially (each cylinder fires one injector at a time) and my tuner has never had an issue tuning. One thing to think about..

#12 peter mc

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 11:50 AM

just be carfull with wolf now as the wolf people have all split  hard times there ,,, so no tec support

#13 dat2kman

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 12:02 PM

And,,,
I have a brand new, never fitted Autronic SM4 for sale, with install instructions, wiring loom, plug, PC interface cable
Current new price, $2600

Sell this one incl postage $2000

You muck around with the cheap stuff, sure, you can get it to work, eventually, but when it comes to backup and assistance, as Peter Mc mentions, well!! Try getting stuff for slightly older Haltech's, i know the family, old man died a while ago, sons took over, re-invented the wheel, and went downhill, business was sold, and the new owners got it back going, but all new units, if you get an old one, forget backup.
At least Motec and Autronic are tightly controlled by their distributors/dealers/programmers, this is what you pay for, and fully up- gradeable

So many guys have gone down the route of injection or turbo, they go cheap controllers, but, they end up wishing they went for better, they wont say so, but,,,,
Yes the dollars are up there, but if you have a $10 car, get a $10 controller,
Oh and buying a second hand unit, inspect it on the car running, then do a deal, but unplug and detach loom then and there, that way you know it WAS working.

#14 handsandwhich

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 12:04 PM

just be carfull with wolf now as the wolf people have all split  hard times there ,,, so no tec support


I thought wolves were pack animals and tend to stay together? I guess now the ecu's will be called 'lonewolf 3D'

#15 luvemfast

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 04:55 PM

I thought wolves were pack animals and tend to stay together? I guess now the ecu's will be called 'lonewolf 3D'

Yes, but Dimitri is a one man Wolf Pack!
Aaaawwwoooooooooo

Pick and choose the info and advice given. Then buy within your budget.

#16 Zedman240®

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 06:19 PM

hahaha...

There is a bit of support available including HybridZ forums but once it's running, I have yet to touch anything other than adjusting shift light points and rev limits.

#17 foodie

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 06:38 PM

One more question while you are all here :)

On a semi-sequential injection setup, the injector is spraying twice while the inlet valve is shut per cylinder per 720d.  Does this mean you can get double the fuel capacity out of an injector?





#18 peter mc

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 08:00 PM

NO  its just wasted fuel . most of it evaporates and sits in ring lands or gets wasted out the exhaust

#19 nizm0zed

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 09:33 PM

to some degree, the fuel being sprayed onto the rear side of the valve can help with keeping its temps down, but once you start talking about modified engines and uprated power levels, that goes out the window.

#20 peter mc

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 11:03 PM

Just on temps on a Rb 26 with a AFR of 10.00  to 12 .00 there is 3 deg of combustion temp change  at full lode
intake valve temps hardly change , its the exhaust valve that gets hot if you run lean 
running retarded timing has more to do with high temps on valves than any other thing 
running batched injectors the exhaust temp is slightly cooler  and hp is down slightly
 




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