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L28E to L28ET?


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#41 nizm0zed

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 10:53 PM

sure, why not.

But what are you going to put it in....


It seems like a lot of money to spend all in one go, but when you add everything up it still costs a fortune
Even if you have a trade behind you that can negate the labour cost of things, parts and professional tool work still isnt cheap.
Then you have the 'individual' factor, if you have to prototype your own stuff, be prepared to build everything 2-3 times before you get it right.

#42 peter mc

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 10:55 PM

some people like new cars some people like to drink and smoke i like to build fast datsuns and fast comes expensive ..

#43 nizm0zed

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 10:59 PM

"Cheap, Fast, Reliable – Pick Two"

#44 gav240z

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 11:39 PM

I think $35000 is a bit overkill Peter... I mean I can buy a porsche 911 car or a Ferrari engine for that much no?


It might seem like it's expensive, because to do it right, that's what it costs. As Alan has said doing it properly always costs good money. The old saying buy a Fast Car to begin with holds true. Doing custom work, building up an Engine is expensive. Even if you can do it yourself, parts are expensive.

This is also why it's always cheaper to buy a car that's already done. You always save money this way. It doesn't matter what car it is. The problem is of course you might not find something that's done exactly the way you want it.

The other option of course is an engine swap...but then you have to go through much of the same thing.

#45 620Z

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 08:44 AM

Just put a Chev in it and be done.  ;)

#46 d3c0y

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 09:58 AM

I think $35000 is a bit overkill Peter... I mean I can buy a porsche 911 car or a Ferrari engine for that much no?


I dont think your $35k 911 will come anywhere near a 240Z with that kind of engine in it either....

#47 Six_Shooter

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 10:25 AM

For $35000 I could have a MUCH better and much more powerful engine than an L-series.

Engines can be built right for far less than $35000, and make plenty of power.

#48 zzzzed

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 10:33 AM

For $35000 I could have a MUCH better and much more powerful engine than an L-series.

Engines can be built right for far less than $35000, and make plenty of power.

.

You live in a country were things are far cheaper and the dollar is stronger aaand yor fuel is better

#49 Six_Shooter

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 10:50 AM

.

You live in a country were things are far cheaper and the dollar is stronger aaand yor fuel is better


Even if that were the case, current exchange rate is right around 2:1, so, that would be about $17500, which is still way more than MANY engines would cost. for $17500, I can buy an extremely stout LSx, with boost, good for around 1000 HP, probably more (Though that would be low on my list of engines), Ford Modular engine, also with boost good for about the same HP.

Looking at 6 cylinder engines, that could buy a very stout 2JZ, a VERY built RB, among many other 6 cylinder engines.

I know things are priced higher than around here, but if you're seriously putting $35000 in parts only in to an L-series, you need to re-evaluate what you're doing, or at the very least HOW you're doing it.

Quality of fuel is irrelevant in this case. I also don't believe for an instant it's as bad as some people on this forum would make it out to be, looking at what I've seen other people accomplish in Australia.

#50 peter mc

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 11:14 AM

mmm you don't read so well
35000 was with ecu motec and dash 7000 by its self, fuel system 4000  buy its self turbo and hard wear 3500 custom inlet manifold and exhaust manifold 4000 this is before you start to build the motor ,

i wonted the best L Series in the world not a back yard hack turbo ....
the crank was a custom 7500  Oliver rods 2500 pistons 1500 + rings it adds up real fast ,,,, and i know i can put a Chev in it I'm not a dick head , its not what i wonted i wonted the best L in the world

PS real rbs like toms from scratch ant cheep, no motor is if you have to  start from the start no fuel system no ecu new exhaust  and if you are paying $100 per hour to get a pro to do it 

#51 Gareth. J.

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 11:23 AM

IMHO With that sort of money I'd expect a monster build, then there's brakes, driveline, chassis, suspension to be able to handle all that power. I'm prepared for flaming, it's just my uneducated opinion  :)

I would think a budget rebuild with some mild work, efi and a 4.1 diff would be plenty quick, especially for the road.... At legal speeds. 

My bike carb setup was plenty quick on my old standard low comp used L28.

Sorry went a bit off topic.



#52 Gareth. J.

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 11:26 AM

Ah that's better, sorry Pete I can't read either. Hehe!

#53 peter mc

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 11:28 AM

mmm gareth your head cost close to 5500 at swmotor sport just the head , i did it cheep for you , your motor and carbs in a shop would cost close to 20000

#54 Vindicare

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 11:33 AM

$700 L28 w/ P90
$850 Forged pistons
$700 Spool Rods
$200? arp gear
$500 AZC sump
$700 BHJ damper
$1200 Trust exhaust manifold
$350 HPC coating for said manifold
$1900 GT35 v-band .63 HPC coated
$200 water oil line kit
$1400 Stainless 3" Exhaust 2 mufflers
$1000 Lonewolf custom intake HPC coated
$700 Autronic 500r & coils
$1500? Autronic SMC ecu
$700 Rice racing water injection kit
$400 Inter-cooler
$400 PWR BOV
$450 TIAL 44mm Waste-gate
$400 Ali radiator
$1400 Jim berry Super monty clutch
$200? 240mm flywheel
$4000 RB25 gbox, adaptor, tail shaft, labour for conversion
$1200 R200 LSD
$1400 Datrat CV conversion
$5000 Labour on engine , bits and bobs, porting, customer  psychological support

And still spending.... depressing, not sure I want to add that all up, that doesn't count the money I've spend on parts I wasn't entirely happy with. Still more to make the driveline strong enough for the new engine. I'm also sure I've forgotten things.
Once engine is back, I imagine there will be $3000 in more parts to install, then probably $2000 for tuning and changing whatever breaks.

Also have

$2000 HSD coilovers
$2400 AZC 4pot brakes
$700ish new bushings odds and sods


One I cant wait to get is the new wheels, hopefully happens soon, 11" wide hopefully will fit with BAMF flares
Modifying any engine costs money guys, good parts cost big money, Good help costs big money. I chose to stick with the L series because I dont think anything else looks as good in the engine bay.


FYI NOT A HIGH COST ENGINE, JUST GOOD PARTS, BY NO MEANS THE BEST. If peter was building his l34 kits earlier, I would have gone straight to one of those, .5L extra displacement would have made me much happier.

#55 Gareth. J.

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 11:34 AM

Yeah sorry guys I didn't think of the breakdown for all the other associated parts, I was thinking just engine for 35k so that is the ultimate 'L' build  ;)

I meant my original engine was fairly decent and maybe that's a better option than a cheap possibly short lived turbo build. If the money saved is used on the other parts then it'll still be very zippy, zeds handle like go karts so with modest amount on all things it'll be more than quick enough



#56 peter mc

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 11:48 AM

for eg p90
springs hsd type 300
high side type 250
cam 200
ssvalves 25 each for cheep type
adj timing gear 250
port job 1500
valve seats and guides fitted 400
face head 50
weld head if need 150
clean and get ready for assemble 100
set wipe pat on cam and supply lash pads 250
head gasket mls 400
and to check it on a flow bench and balance all ports it can cost up to 1000 depends on work


#57 Six_Shooter

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 11:51 AM

You guys are WAY over paying for a lot of stuff, especially Peter, really $4000 for custom intake and exhaust manifolds? Motec is expensive and not necessary to run, even on the "ultimate build." $4000 for a fuel system? I bet a similarly capable system, using components that are as high quality could be built for less than half, less than $1000 around here. $7500 for a custom crank? I was quoted less than $2000 for a custom crank from a US company about 3 years ago for a different engine (a V6), even with shipping and import fees into Australia would not be $7500.

BTW, I can read just fine, which is why I'm astonished that you and other people are paying these absurd amounts of money for parts.

My estimates included supporting items, like the fuel system and ECU.

Maybe many of you are just stuck on catalog builds? Buying parts based on some brands that are simply a recognized brand, and not necessarily any better than a lesser know brand.

#58 Vindicare

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 11:57 AM

60% of my parts are from the states, because they are so expensive in Australia. I didn't want to risk all the money I've paid on cheaper parts which have been known to be bad. It's not a budget build, but certainly not the most expensive either.

#59 peter mc

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 11:59 AM

no catalog motors at my shop mate  . just parts that work  . yer motec is dear thats because it works and they back there stuff up i had a problem at the track a will back and made a call and had a chat to the tec man it was 7.30 pm on a Saturday and he fixed the problem over the phone  , try that with a cheap ecu . real motors and work cost lots

#60 FuzzyDropbear

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 12:07 PM

...i wonted the best L Series in the world not a back yard hack turbo ....


hee hee hee, there's nothing wrong with backyard hack turbo's with water injection stuck everywhere (and that's good quality performance rust which is covering everything.....).  ;D Well, it's not quite backyard, but meh! And doesn't quite fit what Pete's after, if you boosted it to 20psi you wouldn't have much of an engine left!

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Sorry, someone had to post something to lighten the mood in this thread  ;D




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