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L28E to L28ET?


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#21 Baja Burley

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Posted 01 March 2012 - 09:54 PM

If going aftermarket, what is a good size turbo that will come on boost nice and early and breathe for a while after?

p.s Keep in mind this aint no track motor, just a good ol donk I wanna get more guts out of. I want to explore turbo options with the N42 head before going a P90. Purley because I have a spare one sitting in my shed

#22 peter mc

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Posted 01 March 2012 - 10:28 PM

garret gt3076r or 2871 with 86 rear  for strong street car next one up would be 3540r for a race car
or Borg 300 style ring GCG  they will help you out

#23 gav240z

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Posted 01 March 2012 - 11:38 PM

If going aftermarket, what is a good size turbo that will come on boost nice and early and breathe for a while after?

p.s Keep in mind this aint no track motor, just a good ol donk I wanna get more guts out of. I want to explore turbo options with the N42 head before going a P90. Purley because I have a spare one sitting in my shed


I don't understand this, since the P90 head will be the cheapest part in this conversion. ECU and Turbo will cost far more money than a P90 then you have fuel pumps / injectors, fuel rails etc...

#24 nizm0zed

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Posted 02 March 2012 - 08:45 AM

sounds more like your looking for torque, rather than power.
If thats the case, supercharge it.

#25 d3c0y

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Posted 02 March 2012 - 02:27 PM

Ha yeah all those supercharger kits available...  :o

#26 nizm0zed

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Posted 02 March 2012 - 04:11 PM

in all practicality, given what you'll spend on a PROPER turbo setup, the costs work out pretty much exactly the same for a supercharger setup.
Instead of a $1000 turbo, you can get a nice Eaton Charger for the same price (anywhere from $450-1200)
The charger can be mounted where the AC compressor would sit, a bracket would cost maybe $150 for an engineering workshop to weld up, about the same as a good condition turbo manifold.
Pretty much everything else is the same, doesnt matter whether its supercharged or turbocharged.

#27 Baja Burley

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Posted 02 March 2012 - 07:57 PM

Yeah Im definitely after the torque of forced induction ;D. I wanted to keep to turbo because it has been done a thousand times before with every combination possible, from the stock setup, to the machine Peter is building now. Plenty of info out there on it too. I am new to the turbo scene and just trying to get some direction.

The P90 may be the cheapest part in the conversion but its a saving of $2-300 regardless of where it comes in order of value.
Are the manifold patterns the same between N42 and P90?

Luke

#28 gav240z

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Posted 02 March 2012 - 11:04 PM

Manifold patterns are the same both use square ports.

#29 d3c0y

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Posted 03 March 2012 - 01:39 AM

in all practicality, given what you'll spend on a PROPER turbo setup, the costs work out pretty much exactly the same for a supercharger setup.
Instead of a $1000 turbo, you can get a nice Eaton Charger for the same price (anywhere from $450-1200)
The charger can be mounted where the AC compressor would sit, a bracket would cost maybe $150 for an engineering workshop to weld up, about the same as a good condition turbo manifold.
Pretty much everything else is the same, doesnt matter whether its supercharged or turbocharged.


Finding the right size belt and suitable pulley, checking alignment of the custom bracket. How good is a second hand blower too? Also drive belts aren't that cheap. As the op said for ease of knowing it will work and go straight on you can't go past the turbo setup.

#30 nizm0zed

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Posted 03 March 2012 - 08:41 AM

I guess im biased because i can build everything myself, but, in answer to your questions...

Right size belt and pulley is easy, there are kits off the shelf to convert the blower to a V belt pulley quite cheaply, V belts come in a huge range of lengths and profiles, easily adjustable by adding a tensioner pulley (look at the stock AC setup to see how)
Then it can be run off the standard L28 pulley groove for the AC belt.
Alignment of a custom bracket is stupidly easy. You have a known mounting surface that runs parallel to the line of the crankshaft (the side of the block), that gives a reference while building it. Again, use an AC bracket as reference, it has to be aligned too.
Second hand blowers? very reliable and EASY to check.
If it spins freely and smoothly in your hand then it'll work. A visual inspection of the lobes is all thats needed, checking to make sure there is no gouging or scoring of the lobe. Bearing rebuild kits are easy to get and replace.
In comparison to a turbo, a supercharger is easier for 'average joe mechanic' to check over and service than a turbocharger is.

but im not here to argue.....

#31 jamo240

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Posted 03 March 2012 - 06:25 PM

Hey fellas...in my L28 Turbo, I run an N42 head (ported and improved chamber), in conjunction with 86.0mm RB30 pistons on L24 rods.

I run 18 PSI boost in it and have never had problems with it knocking on SHell premium fuel. I can't say in my experience that the N42 head is a complete fail when  turbocharged, but perhaps the P90 is better...never used one.

That configuration makes plenty of torque to light up 235/40R17 Yoki AO32R's in 2nd gear, so enough fun for most drivers.

#32 Bozo

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Posted 03 March 2012 - 10:18 PM

Is this still on the legacy carby setup Jamo? Have you got pics? What turbo, manifold, injectors, plugs did you use?

#33 jamo240

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 03:16 PM

I'll take some pics for you.

Engine has a tube header exh manifold, modified L28E manifold, VS Supercharged commodore injectors, crank triggered ignition, Motec M48 engine management. NGK plugs, R32 GTR clutch.

CHeers

Jamo

#34 peter mc

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 03:39 PM

heheh crank fired and motec and tube exhaust and a real tune .... a bit more than this guy will spend . sorry if that's rude but he wont's to do it with no money , and that's the problem ,it can be done with some know how and a real budget

#35 jamo240

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 07:54 PM

You're right Pete...you can't do this stuff for no money...even if you can do it yourself, the parts alone cost quite a bit. If you're paying for the expertise, then double or triple the cost.

Jamo

#36 Bozo

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 10:13 PM

I've spent $15K+ and more than 1 year doing up my Z. Who said I has no money? I'll pay whatever, I just don't want to spend too much; afterall the 2+2's value will never match the 2-seater's.

#37 peter mc

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 10:34 PM

i was talking about the guy that started the thred not you ,,,
ps 15000 wont build a motor with all the gear not even close ,,,,

#38 nizm0zed

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 10:38 PM

i was talking about the guy that started the thred not you ,,,


QFT.

As someone who does try to do it on the cheaper side, (because i know how to fabricate bits)
It ALLWAYS ends up costing a decent amount of cash to do it properly, there is no avoiding it. EVER.

#39 peter mc

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 10:44 PM

I'm hearing you my last engine that i built i made all the parts and did all the boring and honing and porting .. so just parts the motor and ecu and dash and fuel system to make it work cost $35000

#40 Bozo

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 10:48 PM

I think $35000 is a bit overkill Peter... I mean I can buy a porsche 911 car or a Ferrari engine for that much no?




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