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Baja Burley

L28E to L28ET?

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in all practicality, given what you'll spend on a PROPER turbo setup, the costs work out pretty much exactly the same for a supercharger setup.

Instead of a $1000 turbo, you can get a nice Eaton Charger for the same price (anywhere from $450-1200)

The charger can be mounted where the AC compressor would sit, a bracket would cost maybe $150 for an engineering workshop to weld up, about the same as a good condition turbo manifold.

Pretty much everything else is the same, doesnt matter whether its supercharged or turbocharged.

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Yeah Im definitely after the torque of forced induction ;D. I wanted to keep to turbo because it has been done a thousand times before with every combination possible, from the stock setup, to the machine Peter is building now. Plenty of info out there on it too. I am new to the turbo scene and just trying to get some direction.

 

The P90 may be the cheapest part in the conversion but its a saving of $2-300 regardless of where it comes in order of value.

Are the manifold patterns the same between N42 and P90?

 

Luke

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in all practicality, given what you'll spend on a PROPER turbo setup, the costs work out pretty much exactly the same for a supercharger setup.

Instead of a $1000 turbo, you can get a nice Eaton Charger for the same price (anywhere from $450-1200)

The charger can be mounted where the AC compressor would sit, a bracket would cost maybe $150 for an engineering workshop to weld up, about the same as a good condition turbo manifold.

Pretty much everything else is the same, doesnt matter whether its supercharged or turbocharged.

 

Finding the right size belt and suitable pulley, checking alignment of the custom bracket. How good is a second hand blower too? Also drive belts aren't that cheap. As the op said for ease of knowing it will work and go straight on you can't go past the turbo setup.

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I guess im biased because i can build everything myself, but, in answer to your questions...

 

Right size belt and pulley is easy, there are kits off the shelf to convert the blower to a V belt pulley quite cheaply, V belts come in a huge range of lengths and profiles, easily adjustable by adding a tensioner pulley (look at the stock AC setup to see how)

Then it can be run off the standard L28 pulley groove for the AC belt.

Alignment of a custom bracket is stupidly easy. You have a known mounting surface that runs parallel to the line of the crankshaft (the side of the block), that gives a reference while building it. Again, use an AC bracket as reference, it has to be aligned too.

Second hand blowers? very reliable and EASY to check.

If it spins freely and smoothly in your hand then it'll work. A visual inspection of the lobes is all thats needed, checking to make sure there is no gouging or scoring of the lobe. Bearing rebuild kits are easy to get and replace.

In comparison to a turbo, a supercharger is easier for 'average joe mechanic' to check over and service than a turbocharger is.

 

but im not here to argue.....

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Hey fellas...in my L28 Turbo, I run an N42 head (ported and improved chamber), in conjunction with 86.0mm RB30 pistons on L24 rods.

 

I run 18 PSI boost in it and have never had problems with it knocking on SHell premium fuel. I can't say in my experience that the N42 head is a complete fail when  turbocharged, but perhaps the P90 is better...never used one.

 

That configuration makes plenty of torque to light up 235/40R17 Yoki AO32R's in 2nd gear, so enough fun for most drivers.

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Is this still on the legacy carby setup Jamo? Have you got pics? What turbo, manifold, injectors, plugs did you use?

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I'll take some pics for you.

 

Engine has a tube header exh manifold, modified L28E manifold, VS Supercharged commodore injectors, crank triggered ignition, Motec M48 engine management. NGK plugs, R32 GTR clutch.

 

CHeers

 

Jamo

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heheh crank fired and motec and tube exhaust and a real tune .... a bit more than this guy will spend . sorry if that's rude but he wont's to do it with no money , and that's the problem ,it can be done with some know how and a real budget

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You're right Pete...you can't do this stuff for no money...even if you can do it yourself, the parts alone cost quite a bit. If you're paying for the expertise, then double or triple the cost.

 

Jamo

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I've spent $15K+ and more than 1 year doing up my Z. Who said I has no money? I'll pay whatever, I just don't want to spend too much; afterall the 2+2's value will never match the 2-seater's.

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i was talking about the guy that started the thred not you ,,,

 

QFT.

 

As someone who does try to do it on the cheaper side, (because i know how to fabricate bits)

It ALLWAYS ends up costing a decent amount of cash to do it properly, there is no avoiding it. EVER.

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I'm hearing you my last engine that i built i made all the parts and did all the boring and honing and porting .. so just parts the motor and ecu and dash and fuel system to make it work cost $35000

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I think $35000 is a bit overkill Peter... I mean I can buy a porsche 911 car or a Ferrari engine for that much no?

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sure, why not.

 

But what are you going to put it in....

 

 

It seems like a lot of money to spend all in one go, but when you add everything up it still costs a fortune

Even if you have a trade behind you that can negate the labour cost of things, parts and professional tool work still isnt cheap.

Then you have the 'individual' factor, if you have to prototype your own stuff, be prepared to build everything 2-3 times before you get it right.

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I think $35000 is a bit overkill Peter... I mean I can buy a porsche 911 car or a Ferrari engine for that much no?

 

It might seem like it's expensive, because to do it right, that's what it costs. As Alan has said doing it properly always costs good money. The old saying buy a Fast Car to begin with holds true. Doing custom work, building up an Engine is expensive. Even if you can do it yourself, parts are expensive.

 

This is also why it's always cheaper to buy a car that's already done. You always save money this way. It doesn't matter what car it is. The problem is of course you might not find something that's done exactly the way you want it.

 

The other option of course is an engine swap...but then you have to go through much of the same thing.

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I think $35000 is a bit overkill Peter... I mean I can buy a porsche 911 car or a Ferrari engine for that much no?

 

I dont think your $35k 911 will come anywhere near a 240Z with that kind of engine in it either....

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For $35000 I could have a MUCH better and much more powerful engine than an L-series.

 

Engines can be built right for far less than $35000, and make plenty of power.

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For $35000 I could have a MUCH better and much more powerful engine than an L-series.

 

Engines can be built right for far less than $35000, and make plenty of power.

.

 

You live in a country were things are far cheaper and the dollar is stronger aaand yor fuel is better

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.

 

You live in a country were things are far cheaper and the dollar is stronger aaand yor fuel is better

 

Even if that were the case, current exchange rate is right around 2:1, so, that would be about $17500, which is still way more than MANY engines would cost. for $17500, I can buy an extremely stout LSx, with boost, good for around 1000 HP, probably more (Though that would be low on my list of engines), Ford Modular engine, also with boost good for about the same HP.

 

Looking at 6 cylinder engines, that could buy a very stout 2JZ, a VERY built RB, among many other 6 cylinder engines.

 

I know things are priced higher than around here, but if you're seriously putting $35000 in parts only in to an L-series, you need to re-evaluate what you're doing, or at the very least HOW you're doing it.

 

Quality of fuel is irrelevant in this case. I also don't believe for an instant it's as bad as some people on this forum would make it out to be, looking at what I've seen other people accomplish in Australia.

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mmm you don't read so well

35000 was with ecu motec and dash 7000 by its self, fuel system 4000  buy its self turbo and hard wear 3500 custom inlet manifold and exhaust manifold 4000 this is before you start to build the motor ,

 

i wonted the best L Series in the world not a back yard hack turbo ....

the crank was a custom 7500  Oliver rods 2500 pistons 1500 + rings it adds up real fast ,,,, and i know i can put a Chev in it I'm not a dick head , its not what i wonted i wonted the best L in the world

 

PS real rbs like toms from scratch ant cheep, no motor is if you have to  start from the start no fuel system no ecu new exhaust  and if you are paying $100 per hour to get a pro to do it 

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