Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
thriller

A very rusty z.

Recommended Posts

My new old car.

 

404602_3072457212291_1289467019_3270696_1762573541_n.jpg

430633_3072457932309_1289467019_3270697_1795372767_n.jpg

An interesting place for rust:

403730_3072458532324_1289467019_3270698_1494307742_n.jpg

Passenger side is pretty well shot to shit.

431928_3072458932334_1289467019_3270699_1093667765_n.jpg

Sneaky hole underneath the passenger fender

423321_3072461732404_1289467019_3270703_676753837_n.jpg

Finally part of the car without rust:

430381_3072465252492_1289467019_3270709_498022448_n.jpg

Engine bay looks tidier than the rest of the car

398394_3072467572550_1289467019_3270711_1415366574_n.jpg

Almost complete lack of passenger floor. This is a little bit concerning as I don't think the standard replacement floors reach this far back. Might have to find someone splitting up a shell and get a donor patch

395730_3072751179640_1289467019_3270794_1891432354_n.jpg

After a few hours with the car I had a bit of a poke under a tiny hole I'd spotted, opened it up a bit and found a bit of a nightmare... The worst thing is I have no idea the extent of the rust under here

431454_3096802420906_1289467019_3280249_199120440_n.jpg

 

 

Anyway now onto the actual work. I've started stripping the bonnet back using one of those 3M strip discs (drill type. bunnings didn't have the grinder one last time I went?) and it's taking a very long time because there seems to be more than a few layers of paint on the bonnet. It seems to go metal-factory red-primer-red respray-primer. Would I be better off using chemical stripper for this? Doesn't seem like a problem on any of the other panels, they all strip back quickly.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Will be interesting to see how the top inner rails are like, when you remove the front guards.

 

This will for sure give you a bit of work to do.

At least the air cleaners on the carbs look good!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome.

 

What 3 letters would better describe your journey other than

 

OMG !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, guards will be coming off as soon as the bonnet is stripped bare. Hopefully won't be in for too big a shock.

 

No better way to learn something than to dive in headfirst... Before my last car I didn't know how to do an oil change, two months later and I decided to finally swap swap the trans over from auto-manual

 

 

At least there's enough metal to bolt the flares onto, that's a good start hahaha. Anyway; the z bug has bitten me. Well and truly in love with this bucket of rust.

 

EDIT: I should also mention I want to aim to get this registered with S.A.'s historic registration scheme. Not sure how the sunroof will go with that, but even if I have to replace the roof skin, the difference in cost between historic and normal will pay for the roofskin in just one year. Build #1001 too

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

At least the air cleaners on the carbs look good!

The flares look good too!

 

too!

EDIT: I should also mention I want to aim to get this registered with S.A.'s historic registration scheme. Not sure how the sunroof will go with that, but even if I have to replace the roof skin, the difference in cost between historic and normal will pay for the roofskin in just one year. Build #1001 too

Good luck with this. I was under the impression car had to be standard. Eg without flares

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

strip it and get the shell blasted.

It'll show you EXACTLY what your getting into.

 

I honestly wouldn't buy any parts or commit anything to it until you do that first, It will make the overall job bigger, but it'll save you huge troubles in later years.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Man oh man, that would be as bad as it gets. The sun roof has let a lot of water in. There is a massive amount of body work to be done, will keep you busy, one of my Zeds was bad. Not that bad. And bit by bit I did a section at a time and it all came together . Best you get your self a rotisserie to do most of the bodywork, will help heaps. Best of luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

HI Thriller

I am also in the Adelaide hills, I'm more than happy to come have a look and give you any

advice that you need. I restore cars for a living so may be able to give you some tips.

 

It looks like you have some work to do. I would recommend getting at least the shell

sand blasted . Will make it allot easier for you and will get rid of all the rust.

 

Regards

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Only difference between a small rust patch and a large one is the size of the patch.

 

And the only difference between one patch and 100 rust patches is the time it takes.

 

It may look bad, but with time, patience, perserverance and practice it should be repairable.

 

Good luck !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with Chris...between the money you will need to pay professionals to recover this car, along with hundreds of hours of your own time, it will be far cheaper (and a better outcome) to put the money into a better shell and use this one as a parts car.

 

Cheers

 

Jamo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Only difference between a small rust patch and a large one is the size of the patch.

 

And the only difference between one patch and 100 rust patches is the time it takes.

 

It may look bad, but with time, patience, perserverance and practice it should be repairable.

 

Good luck !

 

That is very true. But only if you can do the work your self. Or it

Is the difference between being able to afford it or being broke. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmmmm....I can't agree on the big patch little patch being the same!

 

Little patches that aren't structural in nature are relatively straight forward. To rebuild the floor and recreate all the flanges where panels come together and get spot-welded, along with internal structural panels (roof panel) that must be reproduced to maintain the integrity of the car is a horse of a different color. Sure it can be done, but it takes considerable skill, experience and equipment to ensure it is done well and production tolerances and appearances are recreated.

 

That kind of rebuild is worlds apart from a few small cosmetic patches.

 

I don't say this to be unkind, but to ensure newcomers to restorations are not lulled into an unrealistic mindset regarding the scale of major structural body repairs.

 

Jamo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The point Im making is SAFETY......

This is not a shell but a coffin.

Im the first one to encourage new owners ,  But, C'mon guys bit of common sense here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome,

 

the shell is definately worth saving being a low numbers car, it all depends how much time and money you have. You may be best trying some of the most difficult sections first, if you can master those, you will be able to do the simpler stuff easily. Were you going to keep the sunroof or replace the roof? This might be worth trying first to see if it is salvageable or if the rust has gone too far.

 

I suggest you also buy the 240Z shell that is on ebay at the moment for all the spare panels inc roof.

 

Cheers. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Whoah, not much optimism in here guys... Ledge, I'll definitely shoot you a PM in a couple of days if you want to come around and have a look, you'd be more than welcome.

 

Cheers Jamo, appreciate the concern. I'm completely aware that this will end up costing more than finding a decent Z for ~$9,000, but I'm not after something that I'm going to buy, give a fresh lick of paint and call it a day. I'm also completely aware that structurally, it will be hard to re-create the original strength of the car. I'm think that anywhere I can't see, I'm happy to make it somewhat ugly, but very strongly reinforced. I know the sunroof significantly reduces the structural integrity of the Z and I'll be doing everything I can to make sure that I'm not driving around in a deathtrap.

 

Also Chris, as above. I'm aware that it's going to take some long hard thinking to get this as stiff and strong as it should be. But time is on my side here, I can wait to make sure I do a proper job of it all.

 

Thanks Brabham. I'm thinking of going front-back, otherwise I'll spend years chasing little bits and pieces around the place, not being truly sure of how much progress I've actually made. Front-back and I can see the progress I've made very easily.

 

I'm not 100% sure about the sunroof Brabham. If it's allowable under historic rego I think it'll stay, otherwise I'll be trying to find a decent roof skin. I've seen that 240z track shell, and I'd definitely be keen but it's in Brisbane and I'm in S.A.. Transport would probably be about $900 considering it's non-rolling... I've shot the guy a PM expressing my interest in the major repair parts I need, will have to just wait and see how the eBay auction pans out. I've pulled the shitty canvas sunroof completely off, I think tomorrow I'll get rid of the framing... Hopefully that'll let me see underneath the roof-skin a bit, I'll then be able to see the extent of the cancer underneath the skin... The surface around the sunroof is in comparably good condition, but I'll wait to see before I say anything for sure.

 

 

People have restored far worse, and I have youth on my side. I need something in my life that I can focus my spare time and energy on, and I've loved Z's since I first saw them.

 

Anyway enough rambling, time to sleep off a few too many beers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dont take the responses the wrong way.

Some of the blokes who will say walk away know full well whats involved in a restoration your going to be looking at, know the pain and $$$$ of such a job.

Others (like me) want you to make sure you decide your path on a full understanding of exactly what your getting yourself into, hence my comment of get the shell blasted.

personally, i would love to see you restore this, you say you have youth on your side? that also means that as you learn the skills to restore this, you'll be able to teach them onto a new generation of people. That in itself is incredibly valuable.

 

Anyways, good luck with it, and dont forget the detailed build thread with lots of pics.  ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

I just had my car soda blasted, which should all the little problems and issues, so much better then hitting it with a sander or grinder, if your intrested pm me and i'll give you the soda blasters details, very nice guy.

 

I cant comment on the body condition i dont know enough about fixing rust... but blasting was a good move on my car.

 

Good luck with her

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... I know the sunroof significantly reduces the structural integrity of the Z ...

 

I'm not so sure about that. The roof has no ribs and if you push on any flat area it buckles. I think the roof is there just to keep the rain out, minimal structural integrity. The biggest complaint about sunroofs is they leak.

 

I would 100% back the suggestion that you have it blasted, primed and mounted on a rotisserie, it makes repairs so much easier. Good luck but more importantly, God's speed - I've just passed the sixth anniversary of starting my build.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ryan,

good to see it made it back. This car does need alot of work but I know for a fact structurally it's not to bad. there is no rust in the firewall and not alot in the firewall and around the inner hatch. yes it needs a bucket load of work, but after seeing what zed back is doing it is worth restoring as it is a 71 model with matching numbers. how ever its probably not the car to do a concourse resto, more along the lines of a zg replica or track car or something a bit different. but if you have the time and knowledge to do it give it a shot. but definately get it sandblasted.

 

Curtis

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

People have restored far worse, and I have youth on my side.

 

Too funny.....but I admire your spirit. I reckon if we were talking about running 400m without stopping, or charging a hill with rifle in hand, I'd agree that youth is on your side.... But, having done up cars when I was young, and now old, I'd say youth is no asset, and having AGE on your side makes all the difference! You've got the experience to know what to do and what to steer clear of, and the money to make it happen.

 

Bottom line: use the energy of youth, but the experience of the older guys to get where you want to end up, rather than learning the hard lessons all over again.

 

Cheers, Jamo

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks nizm0zed, appreciate the comments.

 

Corsa I'll send you a PM, if I can grab the price it'd be sweet. From the sounds of it, blasting is the way to go? I guess it gets into the little crevices that is impossible to do with a grinder and very hard with paint stripper. Will blasting strip back the rust properly, leaving me with a blank canvas? I've never really looked into it much.

 

PeterAllen, just something I'd heard. Since the Z doesn't really have very thick rails, I thought it got much of it's stiffness from the entirety of the body?

 

Curtis, on the whole I think I agree, after a few days of poking around it seems to look worse than it actually is. I've had a good look at zedback's thread, that will be good for me to follow as a bit of an example. I'm keen to end up with a zg replica, but without the nose. I'll figure that out a bit more down the track in regards to registration.

 

Anyway just thought I'd chuck two pics up so that at least each page has something to look at, make it a little more interesting than walls of text. This is some god-knows-how-old sludge (excuse the string, seems like it used to open the bonnet. Works as it should from the lever inside the car though):

rc8y1j.jpg

 

This is the bonnet. It looks like someone has gone crazy with a ball-peen down the front and filled it with bog later. On stripping back the rest of the bonnet, it looks OK... Going to have to get some prices for a good bonnet and decide if I want a new one or to try repair this one.

15ebofd.jpg

 

Ah yes Jamo, probably not the best choice of words on my part hahaha. I guess I meant that I'm enthusiastic to do it right. I'll definitely be using all the experience and tips from people who know far more than I do, pretty much the main reason I've posted this thread in the first place.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, you seem pretty determined, i did a lot of metalwork on an old, rusty Alfa 105 (sills, floors, spare wheel well, wing bottoms etc) and i had no experience before i started and it turned out great in the end, if you have the time, then why not, get stuck into it.

 

Even if you get into it and later on decide it's too much to take on at least you will gain new skills because lets face it, even a $10k+ zed is going to need rust repair sooner or later.

 

I would consider getting some square tube and bracing the car before cutting out too much metal though... plenty of reasearch is what got me through my restoration  :)

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×