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Aluminum Radiators from eBay - opinions/experience?


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#21 luvemfast

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 07:31 AM

I'm no cooling expert Craig. But I would have thought that a similar spec alloy radiator would be better than steel. I put a new rad in my XR6, from steel to alloy core, it runs heaps cooler and it's the same spec.
And at $300, cant go wrong really.
I'm wanting to set up an oil cooler too soon. 

#22 Cozza

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 10:39 AM

No cooling expert either but alluminium has much better thermal conductivity than steel, so as long as the water flow is similar then in theory you should get better cooling properties.
Also your power to weight ratio is looking slightly better too.  ;)

http://en.m.wikipedi..._conductivities

Cheers Mick

#23 nizm0zed

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 10:59 AM

are you sure your original radiator core was steel?
they are generally alloy or copper, pretty much all cars after the mid 80's (roughly) ran alloy cores with plastic header tanks.
The original datto radiator was a copper core with metal tanks.
Copper has a better thermal conductivity than alloy, however alloy is a cheaper material, hence it is used for construction.
Its all about the surface area, you want as much surface area inside the cores to absorb the heat, and as much surface area on the outside to dissipate the heat.
If you have changed your radiator and now it runs heaps cooler, then your old radiator wasnt up to the task of cooling the motor anyway, either due to lack of surface area, or more likely, clogged internally (which causes lack of surface area)
In the cooling system, the radiator cap regulates the working pressure.
the thermostat regulates the operating temperature.
The radiator only dissipates heat.

Its worth noting too, that any sort of coating on the inside surface of the alloy (or copper) will reduce the efficiency to absorb heat.
Eg, if your cooling system is full of rust and gunk (from the inside of the block) then that will act as a heat barrier on the radiator.
This is why its so important to properly and completely flush a cooling system and to only use demineralised water not regular tap water.

#24 620Z

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 12:38 PM

Hmmm thanks guys. Think my old one was painted a nice black when it was cleaned and flush 5 years or so ago. So that probably doesn't help either. I am leaning towards ordering this one in the new year. Still looking for an experts opinion. Ha  ;)

#25 luvemfast

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 02:16 PM

Black actually helps to get rid of the heat.

#26 zed240au

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 09:28 PM

Hi craig just fitted one of the 3 core 56 mm chinese alloy radiator to my car after running a alloy camaro rad (jags that run radiator) old one was single 40mm core
Havent done much driving but car is running cooler and when i ran hillclimb last year i was concerned about how temp went up when i shut car down This year car was cooler every time i went back to it and fan did not even turn on this year when it was on most of day last year
i did fit alloy shroud and biggest capacity fan i could find that would fit
Just hope it keeps car cool for off street drags at powercruise this year So far for me it looks like a good thing

mick

#27 nizm0zed

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 10:40 PM

I didnt even consider discussing the importance of the shroud during my last post, your post reminded me.

A properly designed shroud that covers the entire surface are of the core, then ducts into the fan, will allow the fan to utilize the entire core, making it as efficient as possible.
If you only have a fan and no shroud, the fan will only draw air through the surface it covers, and a very small area around it (maybe a couple of cm)
In practical application a properly shrouded radiator and small fan can be more efficient at transferring heat than a large fan and no shroud.
as a practical example, look at the radiator of any modern vehicle, the fan is as large as possible for the practical space, but even is that means it only covers half of the radiator, the rest is shrouded and ducted to that fan.
If it didnt make a difference, why would OEM's spend the money in R&D, tooling and production costs on a large volume (hundreds of thousands) application and design.

#28 monkey

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 06:40 AM

I've had one from ebay in my car for maybe 6-8 months paid roughly 190 delivered, at the time i didn't have a thermostat in the car since it stuck and i was feeling a bit dodgy at the time. Replaced my old radiator with the alloy one and it never got off cold so i had to put a thermostat in it that night to make it get up to operating temp.

so in my experience they transfer heat exceptionally well, i had to file out the holes to get it to mount, original fan clears without an issue. and if you have an auto like me the original trans cooling lines will bolt in with a little mods (i cannot remember what i had to do to make it work)

#29 dat2kman

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 07:52 AM

I've had one from ebay in my car for maybe 6-8 months paid roughly 190 delivered, at the time i didn't have a thermostat in the car since it stuck and i was feeling a bit dodgy at the time. Replaced my old radiator with the alloy one and it never got off cold so i had to put a thermostat in it that night to make it get up to operating temp.

so in my experience they transfer heat exceptionally well, i had to file out the holes to get it to mount, original fan clears without an issue. and if you have an auto like me the original trans cooling lines will bolt in with a little mods (i cannot remember what i had to do to make it work)

Gee, from February 2008 until now, long time between your first two posts! Did you end up getting a Z, and how did the Zoob SSS project go?
I like to drill a small 5 mm hole in the surrounding flange of a thermostat, just in case they stick, also some thermos come with a little jiggler thingy, its surprising how a tiny bit of crud can block that.
Thete is merit in keeping water flow rate down so that heat from block is more thouroghly transferred into the water, hence the quite small opening of a thermo, and we sometimes think we are smartypants by removing what the manufacturer went to great pains to work out whats best, in most instances.

#30 monkey

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Posted 09 January 2012 - 06:45 AM

Yeah its been a while haha, always been surfing the forum and reading. i bought a 72 240z about 2 years ago just after i bought my house, so all the money i had planned for the SSS went there.

I should probably update my profile >.< haha

#31 Corsa224

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Posted 09 January 2012 - 12:39 PM


Dose anybody know if a 260z radiator fits a 260z 2+2 or not,

Or should I be looking at a ebay 280z one?

#32 Stivva

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 04:15 PM

Hey guys,
In regards to these radiators, will they mate up with the standard fan shroud? I was wanting to upgrade, but keep the factory fan shroud for a more production look.
Stivva

#33 Retro Z

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 06:06 PM

Hey guys,
In regards to these radiators, will they mate up with the standard fan shroud? I was wanting to upgrade, but keep the factory fan shroud for a more production look.
Stivva


Yes they will. They have the tabs to affix the shroud. I test test fitted my plastic shroud and it fitted right up.

#34 Stivva

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 08:44 PM

Awesome. Thanks.

#35 Stivva

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 08:00 PM

Got my radiator today and there is no chance the plastic shroud fits up. The tabs are all about 3 inches away frpm where they should be and are turned out from the radiator rather than back in on itself.

#36 Lurch ™

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 10:17 PM

Bring the Rad. & shroud down Steve - I'll fix/modifiy the Rad. for you ;)

#37 Retro Z

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 10:54 PM

Mine and my brothers ones fitted up no problem. There are about a dozen vendors selling them and i bought the ones that costed a little more. If you have a look through the pictures of different sellers you can see some are different than others in look of finish and bracketry shape etc..so guess you got the wrong one?

#38 Mickl

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Posted 22 June 2013 - 04:31 PM

I too am up for a new radiator after mashing the original with the clutch fan yesterday.
There are many on evilbay for under $160 and free postage which is fantastic. I note many people responding to this topic have had minor mounting issues too. Many are adverised as "1970 to 1975 " however mine is a 1977 2+2 auto so is there a difference between a `75 and a `77 which is significant??
Thanks in advance
Mickl

#39 Mickl

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Posted 25 June 2013 - 05:34 PM

Further examination of the evilbay aluminium three core radiators going for between $150 and $200 delivered has got me confused.
Most of them look very similar with core size 588x350x56mm, overall size 690x474x80mm. All adverts say up to 1975 year model, however, there are none adverising suitable for 1977 model. One place I emailed actually said their unit would not fit a 1977 car.
Now it seems strange to me that this could be so and none of the earlier posts on this topic have actually said what year model car that they have installed these radiators on. So has anyone put one on a `77 yet and did it fit up easily?
I need to get one soon so thanks in advance
Mickl

#40 Riceburner

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Posted 25 June 2013 - 07:20 PM

Ask them for overall rad measurements including the mount hole spacings centre to centre. Then check on your car.




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